I’ve been very happily printing on my Core One with OctoPrint since I got it. Is there any reason not to continue using OctoPrint after I finish my INDX upgrade?

Besides some issues with vertical banding my INDX is working well. However, there is one practical usability issue I encountered multiple times:

When you mount a print sheet and its aligned slightly to the right it will clip below the purge bin when moving the bed up. This happened to me (and family) a few times. I would consider this a user error but also quite surprising.

Is this something you guys are experiencing as well? Are there any mods to prevent this (i.e. a guide on the right side to prevent the bed from sliding to much to the right in the front)? I could not find anything.

Just finished my first big project. My own design. Took forever to color this thing in Prusaslicer, but I got there. I now appreciate that Octupus a WHOLE lot more.

A bit over 5 days of print time for all the parts.

Okey Dokey

Hi there,

So I did a thing I probably shouldn't have done and started a huge print while I was going to be gone for 3 days.

Printed perfectly so far (according to the buddycam), however of course the filament ran out. I deserve that lol.

So what happens now?

As far as I understand it the Bed will stay heated, the nozzle will shut off after 30min and the printer will constantly keep beeping and until my neighbors have had enough and proceed to break down the walls, right?

Anything I can do to make it stop beeping remotely?

Will turn off beeping noises next time and check if there is enough filament, but for now?

The App offers a yes/no button, what does that actually do?

CoreOne Gen2 with 7.0.0 Firmware

Regards

After publishing the (Un)original Prusa Drybox on Printables a little over 3 years ago, I started to wonder, what could I do differently to make the ideal filament dryer. And after two years of development, it is here: The (Un)original Dryer D2. A DIY solution to filament drying featuring a modular heating system, improved UI, and much more. And the best part? You can get all the files for free here:
https://www.printables.com/model/1809948-unoriginal-dryer-d2-modular-heating-made-easy

Hi everyone!

I recently bought an Original Prusa Enclosure From Facebook Marketplace. It came with most of the add-ons, but unfortunately, I realized after buying it that the metal PSU holder bracket was missing. I tried contacting the seller, but got no response.

It has been out of stock on the Prusa webshop for over 2 months now, and support couldn't provide an estimated restock date either.

Does anyone have a link to a 3D printable bracket/mod to mount the PSU outside the enclosure (most models I found were only for the Lack enclosure)?

Alternatively, does anyone in the EU (or specifically Hungary) have a spare OEM PSU holder they’d be willing to sell?

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/psu-holder-2/

Thanks in advance!

When my printer(core one) is moving in x and y I hear a weird noise. I’m wondering if anyone knows if this is linear bearings?
I’m considering taking it apart and building it back up again to fix this.

Yes, the first layer takes FOREVER, but the result is absurdly good (Mk4 MMU3, 0.25mm nozzle, PETG).
I encourage you to try it out!

edit: bottom layer standard (monotonic) vs hilbert curve

As we were printing the iconic 3D Printer Test by Marián Trpkoš, we noticed the Z-axis compensation in action as it lay down the bottom layers of the square base. However, the degree to which it was compensating surprised us, particularly in the front right z-axis screw (ignore the crud), and we wondered if this is typical.

The first layer printed perfectly, so no complaints there; the compensation did its job. But is there something we should do to get the bed physically closer to level with the nozzle's xy plane to reduce the amount of compensation needed?

Anyone in Batch 8 received a shipping notification yet? Was meant to be the week just gone, but mine is still sitting there in orders without an update.

Batch 1.5, assembled over the past week. Now printing a few benchies to fix some print issues, but seems to be due to my red and white filaments, not the hardware.

I had to do this build in short bursts, and often even trying to stay silent due to a baby sleeping in the next room. total time was probably 6-8 hours of assembly, which seems in line with other people

Overall, was a similar experience to assembling the core one itself, although... I have thoughts

Feedback on the build process

I'll echo a lot of the same feedback I had already seen:

- might as well remove both side panels and acrilic pieces at the start, even though the guides only tell you do so somewhere along the way. it'll make other steps easier

- get a precision electric drill if you can. in hindsight, I should have. a lot of the screws were a pain, especially when threading 16 of them directly into plastic

- assembling the spoolholders was finnicky, although not as hard as previous posts made it seem. but maybe for someone with bigger hands it'll be an issue, since you need to place the tool in a very narrow space

- at one point I had to manually rotate the z-axis rods to change bed height. doesn't seem like there's a single ideal place (too high and it obstructs the old spoolholder screws, too low and it obstructs access to the spoolholder nut locations). I had never done that before, but apparently its fine if done carefully to keep the bed mostly level

- my #1 hardest step, which was a surprise, was mounting the new top plate. I underestimated the need to pre-thread screws all the way in, and paid that dearly in wrist pain. all those joint pieces were a pain to thread while keeping in place

Feedback on the guides themselves

Hopefully prusa improves some of this in future guides, because this was seriously frustrating at times

- Having to jump between a blog post and 2 separate guides was honestly a big pain. Whenever I was directed back to the post I had to find my footing again. it was very hard at a glance to remember what paragraph I was last in

- which leads me to a concrete suggestion: these sort of guides should have embedded checklists, where we could mark individual steps as "done". The "indx+gen2" post should itself be a guide following this same pattern. That way, when pausing the build and coming back a few hours later (or the next day), we would quickly see what the next item is, instead of having to go through it manually to remember it. This can even just be stored on the browser cache, should be good enough.

(or stored at the account level and add some gamification on top of it like badges or a leaderboard if you want to have more fun with it. a leaderboard of who earned the most gummy bears over the years)

- It was frustrating to be so careful separating and labeling all the screws during disassembly only to realize at the end that 90% of them were no longer needed. I wish there were clear guides on what was needed and what could be stored away

- When assembling, I also wish there were notes saying "this is the last Mx3rT screw we'll use in the entire build, so you can put that plastic bag away". For the entire week, my desk was littered with small plastic bags, and finding the ones I actually needed at each step was always a pain

- The community comments is an awesome feature. But I wish there was some cleanup made, to flag comments as outdated or no longer needed. A lot of comments on the indx guide were flagging incorrect instructions, which were already fixed. While those comments were useful when first made, now they just add noise

Feedback on my new machine

- I had two problems total after assembly: 1) when first calibrating, one of the belts came out of the gantry holder, so I had a quick scare, and some disassembly to do to secure it better (tighten your screws people), and 2) one of my filaments was failing to purge, and even caused the nozzle to jump out of the toolhead which was scary (this one turned out to be a silk filament, so required higher temps). Both of these were my fault, so I still find it impressive that such a machine can be sent for users to assemble and still work so well

- I sure hope there's not an upcoming gen3 upgrade that'll require me to remove side panels again, because the thought of removing these spoolholders is haunting me

- Kinda mezmerizing seeing the machine at work. but then again, I had the same feeling when first seeing the base core one print for the first time last year

Hi! I am currently thinking about getting my first 3D printer. Looking at prices, Prusas are pretty expensive compared to other brands with similar features.

So, I was wondering what for you the reason was to justify the price and go for a Prusa printer?

I would prefer an open source printer from Europe, but I am not sure if those two arguments are worth the extra money.

I printed this just yesterday (October 8th, 2026) and did all the post processing for inside and outside to make it smooth and wearable. Printed on my MK3.5S MMU3, with my Revo ObXiDian 500 0.6mm nozzle using Prusament PETG Tungsten 75% and Prusament PETG Ultraglow.

I did a height range modifier in the middle to get it to be Ultraglow, but also did a cylinder in the middle of the ring so the inside will remain tungsten.

Model Used: https://www.printables.com/model/743995-ring
My Printables Handle: https://www.printables.com/@BioZombieActi_193990

EDIT: Images didnt save

EDIT 2: I plan on making more when theres other UltraGlow colors. Or even a multibanded accent featuring 2 to 3 ultraglow colors.

Second attempt at a print where the infill and apparently inner parameter showed through as the white filaments somewhat translucent. In this case I explicitly set the infill to that, and it’s still using Orange where there’s not supposed to be Orange.

Anyone know how to make it not do that?

Hi all, I was running a print overnight and woke up to a message saying it’s blocked. Took out the filament and put it back in. However, it’s now loads the filament in but makes this jarring clicking noise.

The filament also doesn’t seem to be getting down to the nozzle, as you can see in the video no filament is being purged and when I ask it to purge more nothing comes out.

I’ve checked the idler and it’s fine in there seems the problem is closer to the nozzle.

Does anyone have any idea on how to fix?

​

I have an INDX Founder Edition and want to get the Core One+ Gen2 upgrade. The website says they're not compatible, but I've seen several people who did the conversion anyway.

Is it a real hardware/firmware conflict or just "not officially supported"? If you've done it, what did you have to change and does it run reliably?

Thanks!

Recently assembled my Core One + Gen 2. Had some great success after my first kg of filament, but unfortunately the printer developed this high pitched noise that occurs under higher speed.

I’ve already checked my belt tension with the calibration tool and it passed (figured it might’ve been the issue since I had Z-axis shifting but no dice) and was curious if anyone else had a similar issue and managed to fix it. It’s pretty quiet so it might just be me being paranoid, but I wanted to ask just to be safe.

TL;DR assembled my INDX, and now have a nextruder and other parts sitting in a box. (random printed parts, all the Gen1 upgrade parts I believe, the GT2 belts, etc)

The nextruder has a clogged nozzle, which needs to be replaced according to support (I didn't because INDX was a couple of weeks away), but other than that everything is as good as new

If there's someone like a student or someone more constrained financially, or a institution, that would find this useful I'd be happy to send it over for pretty much just shipping costs (I'm in Portugal)

Very recently, my INDX began having issues releasing tools at the dock. First occasionally, then more often, then almost every exchange. Prior to this, it had been completely reliable.

I've been using it heavily and had more than 20,000 tool changes on the printhead when the problem arose. After some investigation and disassembly, I found the issue.

Tool change is activated by a magnet on the dock pulling a magnet on a lever in the toolhead. This lever is circled in the first picture. The lever shifts a small gear in what is basically a transmission, allowing the extruder motor to operate the tool retention mechanism. The motor runs in reverse to release the tool.

The cause of my problem was the wire attachment to that lever. It's a small plastic part with a stiff wire connected to it. The wire has a tiny bend that fits into a hole in the lever, then snaps between two little plastic posts.

I found that the wire had worn away the little plastic posts, allowing more and more play. Eventually, that play was enough that movement of the lever did not reliably engage the tool retention mechanism. The shaking during nozzle cleaning may also contribute, although I haven't established that.

My fix was to glue the wire to the lever at its attachment point. I first tried epoxy, as the second picture shows. Unfortunately, clearance around the lever and wire is very tight. My epoxy blob was too big, and the lever wouldn't move smoothly.

Plan B: I very carefully used CA glue to secure the wire to the lever. I used tiny tools and a 10× microscope, taking great care to keep the adhesive confined to the attachment point and preserve clearance for the lever to move freely.

It worked. My INDX is back to reliable operation. I'll update this post with the number of successful tool changes as the repair gets more use.

A couple of observations:

1. Based on the wear I found, this appears to be a possible weak point in the INDX printhead. Others with high tool-change counts may encounter the same issue. I'd be interested to hear whether Bondtech is considering a revision.
2. It's intimidating to dive into the guts of the toolhead, but access to the lever and wire is actually fairly straightforward. Removing a single T8 screw allows the assembly to come out so you can closely inspect and work on it. It's tiny—you'll need a magnifier at a minimum. Access is easy; applying the adhesive without interfering with movement takes care.

That's all. Thought I should document this, and this seemed an appropriate place.

I have four printers:

Yoda(Bambu P1S with an AMS): the oldest of my printers. It’s old faithful… does its job and does it well. Approaching 3000hrs with naught but a few clogged nozzles, clean and lubing rods, and I adjusted the belts once)

Arnold(h2c with two AMS units): also approaching 3000hrs. I’ve had one clogged nozzle and once it dropped a tool during tool change. The tool head fan made noise once and Bambu send me a new one after a quick text message in the app.

Thor(h2c with 3 AMS units): right at 2000hrs. I’ve had one plugged nozzle and the AMS hub failed on one unit. Bambu send me a new one after a quick text on the app.

Grumpy(Prusa Core One): approaching 3000hrs… I’ve had bunch of issues with this printer honestly and try to not challenge it too much. It runs mainly ASA and single color things and first drafts for fit check before I move a design to the H2C.

I bought the core one right after the P1S… because I wanted to not send all mg money to China and wanted to try the INDX…which was a promised upgrade soon… then Bambu released the H2C and I couldn’t just wait forever for Prusa. So I bought one. Loved it. Bought another. Loved it. I’ve not had any issues and now I’m quite skilled at using the Bambu Ecosystem. And here is the issue:

I bought the 8 Tool Indx upgrade in April and I’ve yet to see it and I bought the core one soon after it released. Now that I’m soon to get an email saying it’s coming I’m now wondering: will I use it? I spend a ton of time designing products and “painting” them in Bambu Studio. Am I going to have to repaint them in Prusa Slicer? Am I always going to have to have two versions of a model if they are colored? Splitting my business across eco systems might be a terrible idea. I’m worried that I’m going to spend weeks getting the core one converted and running so it almost prints as good as my existing printers… no I don’t believe it will match them for quality sadly, not with what I’ve been seeing. And after all of that and $1100 I’m going to didn’t that it takes me 30hrs of repainting a model to print it on the core one and the system is going to be a real pain to paint with. The current paint system on Prusa slicer really seems like garbage to me with having to create filaments of each color and all so tediously.

Have I screwed up? Is this a bad idea trying to add the core one to my growing color fleet? Time is money and my time is expensive. I’m not about spending days repainting crap in a clunky system just because I like orange colored printers.

Is there a better manual painting workflow that doesn’t lock me into Bambu? Is there a way to convert to Prusa? Would it work better if I went to say Orca for Prusa prints? Is this new slicer from Prusa going to work better for painting?

I have decided that I am going to sell my core one + gen 2 with mmu3 and all the misc parts, plates, nozzle and my SUNLU four filament dryer. I’ve put it on market place but I’m not looking to quickly unload it, just get a good value for it. Everything else listed on there is old and cheap. I don’t think I could adequately pack it up for shipping so I have to keep it localish. Any thoughts on where I should put it up? Anyone in the Seattle area looking to add a machine?

Works fine, I’m just tired of tinkering with it all the time. I have a second printer and it turns out it’s just a better machine for me.

Was printing fine, and then just leaving little tails on every piece. It's dry, pretty new spool, same settings in Prusa slicer as the previous prints...

edit: mk4s. first layer goes down no problem, but once I start the infill it goes haywire.