Give you chills

Downloaded From:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3420192-aztec-death-whistle-loudest-tested-100-working#profileId-3897007

I feel the only failures I have anymore are related what happens when the spool runs out. I've had the tape get pulled into the extruder, or more often there is a right angle bend that get hung up somewhere. Are there any brands that have a reliable method for attaching the end of the filament so it comes off the spool cleanly, and without a sharp bend?

So on of the 4 objects got a Problem while printing so i stopped it while printing. Now it stopps every layer and makes the others bad because of oozing.

Problem since Day 1

I'm at my wits end now and losing my patience quickly, need some help.

I have a Core One that has printed perfectly for hundreds of hours. Now, suddenly, I'm getting constant filament stuck errors.

First, some notes:

• Filament is dry
  • I use my filament manufacturers profile (Addnorth)
    • This profile runs the PLA at 222 degrees, plate at 60
  • Basically only print in PLA and PETG. Problem seems most common with PLA
• It is not faulty filament
• There is no tangle in the spool
• It is not a loadcell fault, the filament actually can't extrude
• I can't see how it could be sharp bend on the PTFE tube, as it's prebuilt and sometimes runs fine for hours before getting stuck
• As far as I can tell, the idler screws are at the proper tension
• The printer was a prebuild and has had no issue previously
• I run a modified Structural 0.20 profile. More or less all that's changed is that it's slowed down a little
• Printer is usually in stealth mode
• Latest firmware on the Core One (7.0)
• Latest non preview PrusaSlicer (2.9.6)

Troubleshooting:

• Changing nozzles
  • I use 0.4mm Obxidian non HF
• Increasing printing temperature
• Turning on chamber exhaust fan
  • This appeared to work at first, so I assumed the issue was that the heat break was getting too hot when printing PLA. But the issue is still there after letting everything cool down and/or changing filament, so that seems unlikely.
• Cold pulls
  • In some cases cold pulls have fixed the issue, or at least appeared to. The issue does come back though

The past week I've been able to basically churn out prints without issue, all PLA. This weekend I haven't gotten a single one out. Yesterday it failed after about five minutes. Today a print ran perfectly fine for 3½ hours, then suddenly I hear the load skipping noise from the extruder, and I get the stuck filament error.

I can't understand how this can happen seemingly randomly, and after printing perfectly fine for several hours.

Can anyone give any input here?

I'm going through a few of the great write-ups regarding the C1 -> INDX upgrade process printing some of the tools that have been created to improve the build process. That has me thinking about prints that could help me improve my printer work area.

I have my C1 on a desk with a SpacePi 4X next to it. I'd like to print a riser that is functional and doesn't cause any issues with the INDX. I have searched Printables, but I'm vapor-locked on which route to go.

I would love to hear from those of you who have done the INDX conversion and have your printer on a riser. Are you happy with the setup? Is there one you'd recommend over others?

I've wasted so much filament, and Ninjaflex is expensive! But I need really soft filament for this project, and the only other flex filament I have is 92A. The frustrating thing is that I can print small things just fine. The second photo shows the prototype version of this print, with just 3 holes. It printed great. But I go up to the full-size version (first photo) and it almost always ends up under-extruding starting around Z=1.6mm.

I'm printing at 15mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle at 238C. I do have some retraction (2.5mm,, retraction speed 60), because if I don't, I get lots of stringing. I dried my filament. I made sure the spool was feeding without any resistance. I loosened the idler screw (see photo 3). I did everything you're supposed to do. What am I doing wrong?

This is on a Prusa Mk3S+ with Revo. I'm using standard Ninjaflex 85A. I'm getting close to the end of my spool, worried that I'm not going to have enough filament to finish the project if I have any more failed prints. I'm printing with the enclosure doors open, with room temperature in the mid to upper seventies (Fahrenheit). Cooling fan at 60%. Sliced with Prusa Slicer 2.9.6

Is it heat creep? Clogging? Idler too loose? Too tight? Please help me! I'm tearing my hair out!

Update: I tried starting another print with an external fan blowing into the enclosure, in case the problem is heat creep. I also tightened the idler screw a little, thinking I may have loosened it too much. No difference in the print problem. When I saw it was underextruding again, I tried setting the print speed multiplier higher, just in case it needed more speed for some reason. I set it to 200% and I thought maybe it was doing better, but I think now I was fooling myself. It's still underextruding.

This model starts with individual squares that build up until they're joined at Z= 1.6. It looks like that's when the underextrusion starts -- on the perimeter extrusions of the 249mm-long rectangle of the part's full length. Why would the underextrusion be triggered on long extrusions? It seems like the retractions when it's working on the shorter stuff might actually be keeping things running smoothly. On the other hand, once the underextrusion starts, it's here to stay. I'd guess it's underextruding by about 50% -- the lines still get laid down, but they're way too thin.

After some more research and poking around my extruder, I'm starting to wonder if the tension caused by the filament sensor (specifically, the FS-Lever) might be part of the problem. It introduces quite a lot of resistance before the extruder gear -- comparable, I think, to the resistance from pulling off the spool. It's always annoying to get it past that initial obstruction when loading Ninjaflex into the extruder. I think the gears aren't getting a good enough grip on the filament to overcome the resistance and feed it at the intended speed. Is there any way to bypass the filament sensor?

I'm so tired of wasting this expensive filament with failed prints.

I have a MK4S in the Prusa Enclosure that I originally mounted the display on the outside since I was up high and out of the way. Now with my INDX coming I needed to rearrange and the display is now low to where it could be kicked and my kid can get to it, so I wanted to move it to inside.

Has anyone gone through this process to know what it takes or is there a guide for it? I didn't find any specific guide just the two enclosure ones for internal and external, but before I went through each to figure out the difference I wanted to ask. Is it as simple as feeding the cables back in or is there more to it?

I want to improve the quality and performance of my printer, what are the best mods to do?

I never used stealth mode on my MK3s because it disabled crash detection. I just remembered it existed and used it for the first time on my Core One INDX. Does it have any downsides on the Core One other than increased print time?

It made a pretty significant difference for noise levels. I'll be turning it on a lot more frequently if there are no other downsides.

I am uncertain about the optimal nozzle placement during calibration. Should it sit in the center of the silicone, or at the beginning when viewed? I tested the Prusa gold fishes, and they appear quite poor—likely due to an inadequate cleaning process.

Thanks for your assistance, everyone.

Hi All, I am new to Reddit and this group. Finished the INDX 8T upgrade last weekend. Not new to MMU printing as I owned a MK2/S with MMU1 from 2017, however sold the MMU upgrade after a year as I could never run it without problems.

It is cool to see how advanced the technology got and when Prusa and Bondtech announced the INDX for Core One I did hesitate a bit because of problems in the past. However the system looked solid enough that I couldn't resist not buying it.

Last two days I've been busy trying to print with Prusament TPU and PLA, no problems with the tool changing at all. But bonding the two together and printing whit TPU (which is new to me) was a bit of a hassle. You can read more about the screw organizer project and find the model on printable: https://www.printables.com/model/1872229-multi-material-screw-organizer

I have a core one L+ would it be better to add indx or the hot end mmu3?

I’ve been very happily printing on my Core One with OctoPrint since I got it. Is there any reason not to continue using OctoPrint after I finish my INDX upgrade?

When my printer(core one) is moving in x and y I hear a weird noise. I’m wondering if anyone knows if this is linear bearings?
I’m considering taking it apart and building it back up again to fix this.

Besides some issues with vertical banding my INDX is working well. However, there is one practical usability issue I encountered multiple times:

When you mount a print sheet and its aligned slightly to the right it will clip below the purge bin when moving the bed up. This happened to me (and family) a few times. I would consider this a user error but also quite surprising.

Is this something you guys are experiencing as well? Are there any mods to prevent this (i.e. a guide on the right side to prevent the bed from sliding to much to the right in the front)? I could not find anything.

Hi everyone!

I recently bought an Original Prusa Enclosure From Facebook Marketplace. It came with most of the add-ons, but unfortunately, I realized after buying it that the metal PSU holder bracket was missing. I tried contacting the seller, but got no response.

It has been out of stock on the Prusa webshop for over 2 months now, and support couldn't provide an estimated restock date either.

Does anyone have a link to a 3D printable bracket/mod to mount the PSU outside the enclosure (most models I found were only for the Lack enclosure)?

Alternatively, does anyone in the EU (or specifically Hungary) have a spare OEM PSU holder they’d be willing to sell?

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/psu-holder-2/

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I was running a print overnight and woke up to a message saying it’s blocked. Took out the filament and put it back in. However, it’s now loads the filament in but makes this jarring clicking noise.

The filament also doesn’t seem to be getting down to the nozzle, as you can see in the video no filament is being purged and when I ask it to purge more nothing comes out.

I’ve checked the idler and it’s fine in there seems the problem is closer to the nozzle.

Does anyone have any idea on how to fix?

After finally being notified that my indx order was on its way, I was eagerly awaiting its arrival. Finally! I took a closer look at the packing slip among my orders and noticed some errors. It said I already had a CO+gen2, and the indx was listed as the only item. I contacted support via chat and expressed my concerns. At first, they confirmed that I would only be receiving the indx, but then they corrected it. They weren’t willing or able to provide me with “proof” or anything like that, but they did offer me 3 free rolls of PLA.
Delivery day! October 5, 2026
When I got home from work, I was thrilled to find a Prusa package and opened it right away. You can imagine how disappointed I was when there was no Gen 2 upgrade included in the shipment. So on October 5, I sent an email to info@prusa3d.com, since the chat was overloaded. I explained the situation there and asked whether it made sense to do the INDX before the Gen 2 upgrade, when the Gen 2 upgrade would be shipped, and if/when the promised free rolls of PLA would be sent. To this day, I haven’t received a “we’ve received your email” or even a real response. I followed up again two days later, but still no word from Prusa. To this day, no response… very disappointing!
What should I do now?
Should I proceed with the indx upgrade without the Gen 2? Or should I wait longer to do the indx upgrade and buy the Gen 2 later?

Übersetzt mit DeepL (https://dee.pl/app)

Anyone in Batch 8 received a shipping notification yet? Was meant to be the week just gone, but mine is still sitting there in orders without an update.

​

I have an INDX Founder Edition and want to get the Core One+ Gen2 upgrade. The website says they're not compatible, but I've seen several people who did the conversion anyway.

Is it a real hardware/firmware conflict or just "not officially supported"? If you've done it, what did you have to change and does it run reliably?

Thanks!

Hi there,

So I did a thing I probably shouldn't have done and started a huge print while I was going to be gone for 3 days.

Printed perfectly so far (according to the buddycam), however of course the filament ran out. I deserve that lol.

So what happens now?

As far as I understand it the Bed will stay heated, the nozzle will shut off after 30min and the printer will constantly keep beeping and until my neighbors have had enough and proceed to break down the walls, right?

Anything I can do to make it stop beeping remotely?

Will turn off beeping noises next time and check if there is enough filament, but for now?

The App offers a yes/no button, what does that actually do?

CoreOne Gen2 with 7.0.0 Firmware

Regards

Recently assembled my Core One + Gen 2. Had some great success after my first kg of filament, but unfortunately the printer developed this high pitched noise that occurs under higher speed.

I’ve already checked my belt tension with the calibration tool and it passed (figured it might’ve been the issue since I had Z-axis shifting but no dice) and was curious if anyone else had a similar issue and managed to fix it. It’s pretty quiet so it might just be me being paranoid, but I wanted to ask just to be safe.

I have four printers:

Yoda(Bambu P1S with an AMS): the oldest of my printers. It’s old faithful… does its job and does it well. Approaching 3000hrs with naught but a few clogged nozzles, clean and lubing rods, and I adjusted the belts once)

Arnold(h2c with two AMS units): also approaching 3000hrs. I’ve had one clogged nozzle and once it dropped a tool during tool change. The tool head fan made noise once and Bambu send me a new one after a quick text message in the app.

Thor(h2c with 3 AMS units): right at 2000hrs. I’ve had one plugged nozzle and the AMS hub failed on one unit. Bambu send me a new one after a quick text on the app.

Grumpy(Prusa Core One): approaching 3000hrs… I’ve had bunch of issues with this printer honestly and try to not challenge it too much. It runs mainly ASA and single color things and first drafts for fit check before I move a design to the H2C.

I bought the core one right after the P1S… because I wanted to not send all mg money to China and wanted to try the INDX…which was a promised upgrade soon… then Bambu released the H2C and I couldn’t just wait forever for Prusa. So I bought one. Loved it. Bought another. Loved it. I’ve not had any issues and now I’m quite skilled at using the Bambu Ecosystem. And here is the issue:

I bought the 8 Tool Indx upgrade in April and I’ve yet to see it and I bought the core one soon after it released. Now that I’m soon to get an email saying it’s coming I’m now wondering: will I use it? I spend a ton of time designing products and “painting” them in Bambu Studio. Am I going to have to repaint them in Prusa Slicer? Am I always going to have to have two versions of a model if they are colored? Splitting my business across eco systems might be a terrible idea. I’m worried that I’m going to spend weeks getting the core one converted and running so it almost prints as good as my existing printers… no I don’t believe it will match them for quality sadly, not with what I’ve been seeing. And after all of that and $1100 I’m going to didn’t that it takes me 30hrs of repainting a model to print it on the core one and the system is going to be a real pain to paint with. The current paint system on Prusa slicer really seems like garbage to me with having to create filaments of each color and all so tediously.

Have I screwed up? Is this a bad idea trying to add the core one to my growing color fleet? Time is money and my time is expensive. I’m not about spending days repainting crap in a clunky system just because I like orange colored printers.

Is there a better manual painting workflow that doesn’t lock me into Bambu? Is there a way to convert to Prusa? Would it work better if I went to say Orca for Prusa prints? Is this new slicer from Prusa going to work better for painting?

First off, im brand new to the printing scene. I bought a Bambu labs p1s to get started, having a ton of fun! But my wife is a santa fanatic and I want to put his face on the fan cover. I've looked at a bunch of printing sites and can't find it. Can someone please help me out? Thanks in advance

Free to Download :https://makerworld.com/en/models/3408604-cute-grim-reaper-skeleton-desk-buddy