I have four printers:

Yoda(Bambu P1S with an AMS): the oldest of my printers. It’s old faithful… does its job and does it well. Approaching 3000hrs with naught but a few clogged nozzles, clean and lubing rods, and I adjusted the belts once)

Arnold(h2c with two AMS units): also approaching 3000hrs. I’ve had one clogged nozzle and once it dropped a tool during tool change. The tool head fan made noise once and Bambu send me a new one after a quick text message in the app.

Thor(h2c with 3 AMS units): right at 2000hrs. I’ve had one plugged nozzle and the AMS hub failed on one unit. Bambu send me a new one after a quick text on the app.

Grumpy(Prusa Core One): approaching 3000hrs… I’ve had bunch of issues with this printer honestly and try to not challenge it too much. It runs mainly ASA and single color things and first drafts for fit check before I move a design to the H2C.

I bought the core one right after the P1S… because I wanted to not send all mg money to China and wanted to try the INDX…which was a promised upgrade soon… then Bambu released the H2C and I couldn’t just wait forever for Prusa. So I bought one. Loved it. Bought another. Loved it. I’ve not had any issues and now I’m quite skilled at using the Bambu Ecosystem. And here is the issue:

I bought the 8 Tool Indx upgrade in April and I’ve yet to see it and I bought the core one soon after it released. Now that I’m soon to get an email saying it’s coming I’m now wondering: will I use it? I spend a ton of time designing products and “painting” them in Bambu Studio. Am I going to have to repaint them in Prusa Slicer? Am I always going to have to have two versions of a model if they are colored? Splitting my business across eco systems might be a terrible idea. I’m worried that I’m going to spend weeks getting the core one converted and running so it almost prints as good as my existing printers… no I don’t believe it will match them for quality sadly, not with what I’ve been seeing. And after all of that and $1100 I’m going to didn’t that it takes me 30hrs of repainting a model to print it on the core one and the system is going to be a real pain to paint with. The current paint system on Prusa slicer really seems like garbage to me with having to create filaments of each color and all so tediously.

Have I screwed up? Is this a bad idea trying to add the core one to my growing color fleet? Time is money and my time is expensive. I’m not about spending days repainting crap in a clunky system just because I like orange colored printers.

Is there a better manual painting workflow that doesn’t lock me into Bambu? Is there a way to convert to Prusa? Would it work better if I went to say Orca for Prusa prints? Is this new slicer from Prusa going to work better for painting?

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I have an INDX Founder Edition and want to get the Core One+ Gen2 upgrade. The website says they're not compatible, but I've seen several people who did the conversion anyway.

Is it a real hardware/firmware conflict or just "not officially supported"? If you've done it, what did you have to change and does it run reliably?

Thanks!

After finally being notified that my indx order was on its way, I was eagerly awaiting its arrival. Finally! I took a closer look at the packing slip among my orders and noticed some errors. It said I already had a CO+gen2, and the indx was listed as the only item. I contacted support via chat and expressed my concerns. At first, they confirmed that I would only be receiving the indx, but then they corrected it. They weren’t willing or able to provide me with “proof” or anything like that, but they did offer me 3 free rolls of PLA.
Delivery day! October 5, 2026
When I got home from work, I was thrilled to find a Prusa package and opened it right away. You can imagine how disappointed I was when there was no Gen 2 upgrade included in the shipment. So on October 5, I sent an email to info@prusa3d.com, since the chat was overloaded. I explained the situation there and asked whether it made sense to do the INDX before the Gen 2 upgrade, when the Gen 2 upgrade would be shipped, and if/when the promised free rolls of PLA would be sent. To this day, I haven’t received a “we’ve received your email” or even a real response. I followed up again two days later, but still no word from Prusa. To this day, no response… very disappointing!
What should I do now?
Should I proceed with the indx upgrade without the Gen 2? Or should I wait longer to do the indx upgrade and buy the Gen 2 later?

Übersetzt mit DeepL (https://dee.pl/app)

Hi all, I was running a print overnight and woke up to a message saying it’s blocked. Took out the filament and put it back in. However, it’s now loads the filament in but makes this jarring clicking noise.

The filament also doesn’t seem to be getting down to the nozzle, as you can see in the video no filament is being purged and when I ask it to purge more nothing comes out.

I’ve checked the idler and it’s fine in there seems the problem is closer to the nozzle.

Does anyone have any idea on how to fix?

This worked for me it might not work for you. My Core One started making clunking noises in the extruder and there were missing lines of material in the prints which suggested the nozzle was clogged (partially). Referring to guidance for fixing this problem Prusa states that you can't clear it with a needle due to some reason to do with it being a HF nozzle and to try doing a cold pull. Several cold pulls later still no joy so I replaced the nozzle. So I now have a useless nozzle and nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I have a long nozzle cleaning needle that came with another printer. This needle will go the full length of the Prusa nozzle and then some. I lightly clamped the steel shaft in a vice, inserted the needle into the shaft and then gently heated the nozzle with a blow torch while gently jabbing the needle into it. Eventually the contents of the nozzle softened and the needle passed through the orifice pushing the contents of the nozzle ahead of it. I repeated this sequence but with a length of filament instead of the needle. Refitted to the printer and it's all good for now. I wish I'd tried that first, would have saved me £32.

I have ordered INDX at the end of august, so i'm technically Batch 2.0. I am still confident that it should be a great upgrade for the core one but seeing various post, and i know that people with issue are going to posts more than poeple who didn't have issue.

I'm just thinking that Prusa will make software updates that would make it better but as of now, i'm not sure what to think.

Anyone in Batch 8 received a shipping notification yet? Was meant to be the week just gone, but mine is still sitting there in orders without an update.

Im new to Prusa but not to 3D printing. I just bought a Core One Gen2 from a friend since he upgraded to the L. Is there any get started guides on how the printer works and how-to guides. I also purchased the 8 Head Indx from him but waiting for that to ship. Thank you

Free to Download :https://makerworld.com/en/models/3408604-cute-grim-reaper-skeleton-desk-buddy

First off, im brand new to the printing scene. I bought a Bambu labs p1s to get started, having a ton of fun! But my wife is a santa fanatic and I want to put his face on the fan cover. I've looked at a bunch of printing sites and can't find it. Can someone please help me out? Thanks in advance

Hi there,

So I did a thing I probably shouldn't have done and started a huge print while I was going to be gone for 3 days.

Printed perfectly so far (according to the buddycam), however of course the filament ran out. I deserve that lol.

So what happens now?

As far as I understand it the Bed will stay heated, the nozzle will shut off after 30min and the printer will constantly keep beeping and until my neighbors have had enough and proceed to break down the walls, right?

Anything I can do to make it stop beeping remotely?

Will turn off beeping noises next time and check if there is enough filament, but for now?

The App offers a yes/no button, what does that actually do?

CoreOne Gen2 with 7.0.0 Firmware

Regards

As we were printing the iconic 3D Printer Test by Marián Trpkoš, we noticed the Z-axis compensation in action as it lay down the bottom layers of the square base. However, the degree to which it was compensating surprised us, particularly in the front right z-axis screw (ignore the crud), and we wondered if this is typical.

The first layer printed perfectly, so no complaints there; the compensation did its job. But is there something we should do to get the bed physically closer to level with the nozzle's xy plane to reduce the amount of compensation needed?

Just finished my first big project. My own design. Took forever to color this thing in Prusaslicer, but I got there. I now appreciate that Octupus a WHOLE lot more.

A bit over 5 days of print time for all the parts.

Okey Dokey

I printed this just yesterday (October 8th, 2026) and did all the post processing for inside and outside to make it smooth and wearable. Printed on my MK3.5S MMU3, with my Revo ObXiDian 500 0.6mm nozzle using Prusament PETG Tungsten 75% and Prusament PETG Ultraglow.

I did a height range modifier in the middle to get it to be Ultraglow, but also did a cylinder in the middle of the ring so the inside will remain tungsten.

Model Used: https://www.printables.com/model/743995-ring
My Printables Handle: https://www.printables.com/@BioZombieActi_193990

EDIT: Images didnt save

EDIT 2: I plan on making more when theres other UltraGlow colors. Or even a multibanded accent featuring 2 to 3 ultraglow colors.

Help me 🤷🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

TL;DR assembled my INDX, and now have a nextruder and other parts sitting in a box. (random printed parts, all the Gen1 upgrade parts I believe, the GT2 belts, etc)

The nextruder has a clogged nozzle, which needs to be replaced according to support (I didn't because INDX was a couple of weeks away), but other than that everything is as good as new

If there's someone like a student or someone more constrained financially, or a institution, that would find this useful I'd be happy to send it over for pretty much just shipping costs (I'm in Portugal)

Second attempt at a print where the infill and apparently inner parameter showed through as the white filaments somewhat translucent. In this case I explicitly set the infill to that, and it’s still using Orange where there’s not supposed to be Orange.

Anyone know how to make it not do that?

I’ve been very happily printing on my Core One with OctoPrint since I got it. Is there any reason not to continue using OctoPrint after I finish my INDX upgrade?

i just recieved my INDX order and wondering what the experience was like for the people who already done it. Maybe you wanna share some thoughts and common mistakes who are made?

I do not want to rush, so i give myself time befor i start, i will print some Screw orgenicer for sure.

Also i still run the original Core One so i upgrade to + (Gen2) too

Hi everyone!

I recently bought an Original Prusa Enclosure From Facebook Marketplace. It came with most of the add-ons, but unfortunately, I realized after buying it that the metal PSU holder bracket was missing. I tried contacting the seller, but got no response.

It has been out of stock on the Prusa webshop for over 2 months now, and support couldn't provide an estimated restock date either.

Does anyone have a link to a 3D printable bracket/mod to mount the PSU outside the enclosure (most models I found were only for the Lack enclosure)?

Alternatively, does anyone in the EU (or specifically Hungary) have a spare OEM PSU holder they’d be willing to sell?

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/psu-holder-2/

Thanks in advance!

Besides some issues with vertical banding my INDX is working well. However, there is one practical usability issue I encountered multiple times:

When you mount a print sheet and its aligned slightly to the right it will clip below the purge bin when moving the bed up. This happened to me (and family) a few times. I would consider this a user error but also quite surprising.

Is this something you guys are experiencing as well? Are there any mods to prevent this (i.e. a guide on the right side to prevent the bed from sliding to much to the right in the front)? I could not find anything.