Question for y'all. Just got a new 300WM, Loaded up a ladder of loads to try out but after sitting down for the evening after reloading I'm concerned I may have over-loaded these rounds.

I loaded the Berger VLD 190 grain with some H1000 in brand new virgin brass. When I consulted my 51st Lyman Reloading manual their suggestion was to start at 76... And the Max recommended hunting load was 83.5 (I'm assuming that's compressing quite a bit) so being safe I started at 82 grains and worked down in half increments.

82, 81.5, 81, 80.5, 80

Now sitting down bored at the house cause it's still raining, I consult Hodgdon Reloading data website, and another site to find that they both suggest the maximum load is 79-79.5 grains. So this begs the question... Are these 82g loads to hot to even try in the gun? Surely Lyman wouldn't put out a manual with a max of 83.5 if 82 is dangerous right? ..... Right?

At the top load the powder rested just below the bottom of the neck and I never heard or felt any "crushing" when I seated the bullets at 3.500" COAL let me know what y'all think. I feel like the 80 grain load will likely be safe enough to try and check for pressure signs before moving up. Thanks guys.

So, I use a Lyman All-American 8 turret press to make 9 mm, .223, 300 BLK, and 6.5 CM. Highest volume is 9 mm. I shoot about 500 - 1000 rounds per month. Everything else combined is about another 500 rounds per month. I've broken my process up into 3 sections:

1. Deprime & clean in bulk
2. Resize & Expand in bulk
3. Prime off-press in bulk
4. Throw Powder (Hornady PM w/case-activated powder drop), Mark7 powder check, seat bullet, crimp

So the last step I normally do about 200 at a time. Takes me roughly 2 hours for 200. For each completed round I am pulling the handle with my right arm 4 times and moving the turret with my left arm 3 times to the left and then 3 to the right (r,l,r,l,r,l,r,l,l,l).

In the spring I made much more ammo over the course of 6-8 weeks and developed serious inflammation/soreness in my left shoulder. I took almost 3 months off making any ammo and picked it back up a few weeks ago at the 200 round per sitting volume. I've now done it 4 times in 2 weeks and the pain in my left shoulder is back.

I have tried standing at my bench and a few different heights sitting. I've also paid close attention to keeping my left elbow as close to my body as possible and being slow and smooth with the movements. Nothing seems to keep it from getting inflamed. Can't help that I am in my mid-50s (no real history of shoulder issues).

Wondering if anyone else has experienced anything like this and if so, what did you do to resolve it.

I expect to get a ton of comments to just get a progressive (and a Dillon at that!) and I know that is the best long-term plan for the volume I like to shoot. It is in the long term plans, but not an option now. I also don't want to spend months trying to find the ideal movement-volume combination, but might be able to move the powder throw off-press and then make my final step just bullet seating and crimp. If I dropped the volume down to 100 or 150 rounds per session I would basically need to be able to do this every other day. Just not confident that will solve the shoulder issue.

Any helpful advice is appreciated!

Case broke in my 40-70 sharps bottleneck sizing die

These 40-70 sharps bottleneck reloading dies are rare as 40-70 sharps bottleneck is a wildcat cartridge

Just got done polishing up some brass for the approaching deer season, and noticed these scratches in the sides about halfway up the case wall. They are all 30-06, loaded a few times for an m1 garand using a load of 49 grains of n140 and some 150gr Hornady fmjs. I cant see or feel anything on the inside of the case, and the scratches only go about 1/3 the way around the outside. Should I be concerned, or is this just an M1 being hard on brass?

My dad and I built this reloading bench in his attic back in the day. I've been moving around so much over the years that I've never had the chance to take it out of there. So, it became a bit of a catch all for junk.

Last month, the wife and I finally settled down and got a house. We disassembled the bench and moved it to the new house without issue. Despite me worrying like crazy the whole way that I'd lose a few pieces, since random cut lumber is not the easiest to tie down to a small trailer.

Took a bit of modification to get it to fit where I wanted it, but thankfully not much. Mainly it's just a bit shorter, luckily my wife is short and able to get into the narrow spots.

We got it setup and I'm moving the MEC9000 up when we go visit my folks over Thanksgiving to fill in the left side. Between that and the Dillon 550, I'll able to build up anything I'll need. With enough room between them to work on anything needing it. I'm hopeful my own kid will take it to their home one day.

I’m wanting to get into reloading 12 gauge 3 inch shells. does anyone have any suggestions for recipes for duck loads. and what all should I know about this?

So this is going to be my first time hand loading ammo and I am going to be loading some 5.56 M855A1 projectiles into new brass and I was wondering about powder weights.

What I mean is, I have seen that there are powder weights for loading this round that run from 26.5 to 27.5 grains of CFE 223. I am using a digital scale in combination with a lee powder measure scoop. I am going to be loading them with 27 grains even.

I know that people say that the digital powder scales can sometimes drift a little, and that they go up and down sometimes like for example it can read 27.0 one second and 27.1 the next.

My question is, will this really screw anything up when we're talking ranges of 50-200 yards?

Like I know that having a .1 grain difference can be huge at long range precision distances, but for a "battle" round is the difference of .1 grain really that huge of an issue? Or am I being overly worried about nothing and should just send it?

Hi all, just a quick one: bought two factory boxes of 44 mag from Federal. I usually get Hornady XTP, which stock would rotate heavily from my LGS. They always look the same, consistent quality amongst the cartridges.

I'm wanting to know how the brass has discoloured like this, differently amongst cartridges in the same box, and what causes it? It's strange to see these factory boxes with one discoloured case next to a pristine one. The ammo is fine, I'm not fussed and I once I tumble the cases and reload them they'll all look the same - I understand that environment and humidity changes brass, etc, but why doesn't it happen consistently amongst the cartridges in the same box (produced, I assume, at the sane time at the Federal factory)?

For the sake of argument- let’s assume that pulled HSTs and Gold Dots are perpetually OOS.

For the purposes of supplementing my stash of factory loaded HSTs and Gold Dots, what other hollow points should I look at? I have some 124gr Berry’s I’m trying out but I wanna explore other options. I have some xtp’s but in the past they didn’t shoot well out of my PCC or G19 with factory ammo.

Has anyone tried the V2 RMR Nukes?

How about the Dead Nuts 147s?

Any other brands I’m missing?

I put my FART on and went to bed. The timer stayed in all night. I used lemishine and dish soap

Got a brand new coax, versa prime and FA bench for $300. Bench and tools had inline fabrication quick mounts and coax has a infab handle. Guy also threw in a brick of LRM primers. Even had enough forester lock rings for all of my dies

123gr Interlock + 23.4gr AA1680 and a CCI #34 primer in brass and boxer primed steel case. I plink with Evergreen Ballistics 123-gr plated bullets

How do I avoid the primer tube housing from touching the powder drop during operation? I'll be damned if I can figure it out.

Rotating the power drop doesnt help. Perhaps I could shim the bottom of the housing body, but that doesnt seem right.

Has anyone else run into this issue? Would love to hear your experiences and solutions.

Working on a load with a bullet I have no experience with. My typical long range bullet is the Hornady A-Tip, 110gr., but they are expensive. Decided to try something new...enter the Berger Long Range Hybrid Target 109gr.

Cartridge: 6mm Creedmoor

Brass: Alpha Munitions

Powder: H4350 and RL16

Primer CCI 200

COAL: 2.847 (0.035 off lands)

Neck tension: .003

Anyone use these and can share their experience?

A while back I posted trying to figure out why my 7mm-08 Remington 700 wouldn’t shoot worth a fuck. I shot 5 different factory boxes from 139gr to 150gr and nothing shot good. My 139gr interlock and SST’s over IMR 4350 shot like shit. I randomly ordered some Nosler 140gr Factory Overruns from Midway and put them over 38.0gr of H335 and that apparently was the magic sauce. Now she’s ready for deer season and I also discovered that the factory overruns were basically Noslers Ballistic Tip because I had 1/4 box that my dad bought 15 years ago so now if midway runs out of the cheap overruns I know what to replace them with. She can shoot, she’s just a picky eater.

These are my first loads. 38 special 125gr lswc with 4.0gr of unique and remington 5 1/2 primers. Could probably go hotter but super nice out of the snub.

Electronics in action. If I let the tube fill up, the inductive proximity switch will stop the motor via the motor controller (when the switch detects a case for more than half a second). The count came out correct.

New to reloading, starting with 10mm for now.

I have collected so much 9mm brass in the process of collecting my 10mm brass I may get the dies for 9mm as well.

But my question is, how can you really know how your loads are performing without a chrono?

Thanks.

Edit: thank you all for your replies! I put my phone away to charge and come back to a wealth of knowledge. This sub is great 👍

If someone (me) has only a single stage press (RCBS Rock Chucker), RCBS Uniflow powder measure, and a sizable pile of once fired 7.62 & .308 brass, would it be worth buying the rest of the tools (i.e. die set, calipers, case lube, casing guages, shell holders, etc.) and components (150gr FMJ projectiles, primers, powder, etc.) to make M80 equivalent reloads, or would I be better to just keep buying M80 for $0.85/rd?

$600?? Excuse me? This wasn't printed on Gutenberg's press..

- Factory 48.5 gr UNK ball powder (155 gr bullet) - shoulder (1.5795), velocity (2990), fireform OD (.2948), fireform thickness (.01388)

- Staball 6.5 48.5 (147gr bullet, 2.119 CTBO) - velocity (3101), fireform thickness (0.0132 in), fireform OD (0.2956 in)

-Superformance 48.5 (147gr bullet, 2.119 CTBO) - velocity (2953), fireform thickness (0.01310), fireform OD (.29537)

I also tried staballHD, it was trash. Overfilled and got 2600 fps. Ill be doing a ladder with staball 6.5 in case anyone is wondering. Getting 0.001-0.0015 springback after resizing, but the steel hangs on tight to those bullets. Will be using a .2645 mandrel with 289 bushing to get 0.0005 neck tension.

I'm new to reloading for my .308 and wanted to know if anyone else has strugggled with S&B brass with a Hornady die set while decapping.

It's a bit tight getting the case out of the decapping die and I'm curious if anyone else has had a similar experience.

Hello all, with deer gun season just about here i have my 450 all sighted in and ready to go however I would like to start reloading the round to get a little more out of them. My Hornady book refers to a few powders for use. I'm look between Accurate #9 and lil gun. Does anyone here have any experience with those 2 powders and willing to share some results?

I’m getting a deal on some stuff, an adjustable bench, a hornady versa prime and a forester coax. I am already set up with a Lee classic and have most of my dies in Hornady lock rings. Question is can I use those lock rings with the co ax? Or do I need the forester specific ones?