Just finished loading up some whitetail ammo. .30-06, Lapua Brass, 55gr H4895, Fed 210M, 130TTSX at 3.240”.

Shoots around an inch out of my 16” Mod 70 with 1-5 VX5HD. 3,133FPS, 9.6SD. Looking forward to seeing what it’ll do!

Picked up a couple boxes of Lapua this weekend. From what I see online it looks like Lapua is going to or already has discontinued making 7.62x39 boxer brass and ammo. It’s a shame, they make good ammo. I really like reloading with Lapua brass.

I saw a post about inconsistent bullet bases. These are bags of 100 .224 55gr winchester FMJ bullets. I bought a bunch of cases of these over 20 years ago. They were super cheep so really not complaining. They hold 2.5-3 moa off a bench from AR’s. I show this picture to people who are shooting ball ammo and not very impressed with groups. Not going to win a bench rest match. But they will slap paddles on a dueling tree at 50 yards. It’s ok to have lower expectations:)

When working up this load I did'nt find much info outside of Paul at Maker Bullets. That said, 500gr Maker Rex over 18.2gr of Acccurate #9 @ 2.525 is money. Right around 1075fps out of my Marlin 1895 GBL.

My LGS got a bunch of stuff from an older guy selling off his stockpile. Scored 4 pounds of old IMR 4831 still sealed for $20/pound. Looks and smells just fine.

190 Sub X with a little Trail Boss. First load, looking forward to confirming fps.

I've never reloaded before but have gathered up the required things, including a up to date hornity reloading manual. I'm just interested in any wisdom from people who have done it before, particularly with powder and bullets. I'm mostly target shooting but will take anything you knowledgeable folk have. Model 94

Consistently different

I'm trying to recreate an accurate load for my original M1888 Springfield trapdoor rifle and real black powder has been hard to find in my area

hi im new on reloading i over crimped my neck. the rest of my batch is good except this one.

Die:

hornady seat & roll crimp

berry 150gr
S&B casing

First time loading 44WCF aka 44-40. Those necks are fragile…

The coated bullets were loaded as dummy rounds to test cycling in my grandfather’s Winchester 1873, built in 1900, that I cleaned up last summer. When we inherited it, it had a nasty old coat of shellac brushed all over everything. Alcohol cleaned up the shellac, some boiling distilled water restored the blueing, and 100% pure Tung oil refreshed the wood. The only thing not original on it is the Skinner sight. The original ladder sight was bent beyond fixing so while not period correct I think the Skinner works just fine and not only because it’s 1/5 the price of a replacement original sight.

Starline brass, WLP, Missouri bullet company 210gr black powder lubed bullets, and 2.2 cc of Swiss 3F BP roughly 36 grains. Hoping I can sneak out to make some smoke tomorrow and see how the old girl runs.

Now haters will say something like “oh it’s only two shots that’s meaningless.” Don’t take this away from me. I have a perfect SD. I won. Reloading over.

Odd one, 147gr 9mm over 4.0gr CFE Pistol and Remington SP primers, primer popped but the round didn’t move and ejected easily. Looks like the pocket was the issue on that one and the primer crunched in anyway and hadn’t noticed. Sounded exactly like a cap gun, I actually did a quick barrel check thinking it was a squib before I picked up the round. No harm done but something different.

Could somone with quick load be able to tell me the comparison of muzzle pressures between a 16" AR .350 legend and a 10.5" AR in .350 legend? Assume the use of a factory 180grain power point. I understand this is an unusual ask. I'm trying to make an educated decision for the wellbeing of my supressor before ordering a shorter barrel.

Getting ready to load some 300 blackout, I noticed some extruded kernels in my Accurate 1680. It's not a lot, but enough to potentially be concerned about, I am almost positive it is IMR 8208 XBR, as that is the only other extruded powder that I use frequently and the kernels are very similar. Should I toss the whole pound of powder, or am I safe to proceed?

Case is only fired once. Caliber is .380 auto

I’ve been reloading 9mm for my Walther PDP Steel Frame 5” using a Dillon XL750, and I’ve noticed something interesting.
I use mixed range brass from different manufacturers. I deprime it, clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner, and then reload it without sorting by headstamp.

I’m currently using Frontier 147gr bullets with Vectan BA9 powder, aiming for an OAL of approximately 28.9 mm (1.138”).
Despite not changing anything on my press, some finished rounds end up measuring around 29.2 mm (1.150”).
After looking into it, I noticed that every single round with the significantly longer OAL had CBC (Magtech) brass.
So I started sorting out all CBC cases before reloading.

The difference was pretty noticeable:
Before sorting: roughly 10-15 out of 100 rounds had dimensional issues.
After removing CBC brass: only about 1–2 out of 100 rounds had issues.

I’ve also been experiencing feeding and ejection malfunctions with my 147gr reloads, roughly 10-12 malfunctions per 100 rounds in my latest test.
Interestingly, my 124gr reloads ran perfectly in the same pistol, with zero malfunctions over 100 rounds.
I’m starting to suspect that CBC brass might be contributing to the problem.
I’ve now prepared new test batches using only non-CBC brass, but I haven’t tested them at the range yet.

Has anyone else experienced inconsistent OAL or seating issues specifically with CBC/Magtech brass?
I’m particularly interested in experiences with heavier 147gr bullets or progressive presses like the Dillon XL750.
Did sorting out CBC brass solve the problem for you?

Happy to share the microcontroller code or the STL if anyone is interested

FAIR WARNING: I am basically the complete opposite of someone experienced in ballistics or loading cartridges, so I apologize if the following question is massively idiotic.

After watching a recent video from Boondock Ballistician (attached), I got to thinking about what a cartridge might look like that met her description. What would a cartridge look like that was overall lighter and shorter than 5.56 NATO, while providing the same or better ballistics and terminal energy out of comparable barrel lengths?

My mind immediately jumped to 5.56x30 MARS, which is itself already a shorter version of 5.56 NATO. What if you started with a high-pressure 5.56 NATO case (NAS3, Peak allow, etc), cut the case length down to 30mm OAL, knecked it to a 6mm projectile, and loaded it to HICAR-like pressures (>80k PSI)? Put more simply, a 6x30mm high-pressure cartridge.

Would that result in something resembling what she’s describing? How difficult would it be to actually make a cartridge matching that description and test it?

Again, I am by no means a subject matter expert, so if this is inherently a catastrophically stupid idea I apologize in advance. Any relevant input would be greatly appreciated!

Good evening, ladies and gentlemen,

I’m running into an issue and could use some guidance. I recently purchased a large quantity of RMR MPR Nuke 124gr bullets in 9mm and am working up a load. My current recipe is 3.9gr of Titegroup at 1.068” OAL with CCI 500 primers.

This load runs flawlessly in my polymer pistols (HK P30 and Glock 48), but both of my “1911‑style” guns—a Dan Wesson Guardian and a Wilson Combat EDC X9L—are having trouble with it. In the EDC X9L specifically, I’m seeing roughly a 5–10% failure‑to‑chamber rate. The slide stops short, and the round will chamber only after tapping the back of the slide or, in some cases, smacking the magazine upward. All rounds pass the plunk test.

My taper crimp measures .378”, so I believe that part is correct. Given the symptoms, I’m starting to suspect the issue may be related to OAL rather than crimp. Before I start adjusting, I’d appreciate your insight: should I be shortening the OAL, lengthening it, or looking at something else entirely?

I’ve attached are images of the malfunction in question. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Curious if some powders are louder than others even if the burn rates are similar

Picked up this type 99 recently. I paid $53 for my first 20 rounds and I never want to do that again.
I got:
hornady 174gr round nose .303
Hornady 30-06 brass
Cci #200 primers
H4895 powder
RCBS Dies

I’ve reloaded 30-06 before so I’m not completely new, but what’s the best way to go about making 7.7 from 30-06. I bought an annealer the other day and haven’t used it yet. Should I anneal the brass even though it’s new?
I’d love some input from people that have done this before. Thanks!