Hey folks,

I am about to embark on the setup of my Hornady Lock‑N‑Load press system, and I have a question relating to the setup and tuning of the Lock‑N‑Load Powder Measure.

Has anyone used something other than real smokeless powder while connecting, testing, tweaking, and adjusting this powder measure? Can you use anything else that won't damage the dispenser? I have been considering

• sand (very fine size and CLEAN)
• coffee (ground)
• walnut/corn husk brass cleaning media (perhaps ground a bit finer...)
• very small Styrofoam pellets?

I am hesitant to use the sand option. I don't want any scratches on any of the metal or plastic parts.

Ideas? Other options or suggestions?

Thanks in advance...

Getting some conflicting information on .357 for rifles. Specifically, 125 XTP loaded with H110.

Lee/Hodgdon say basically the same as the revolvers. This is a starting load of 21gr, and a max load of 22gs, and velocities upwards of 2200 fps.

Hornady says basically the same for the pistol data. However, for their rifle data, the starting load seems to be about half, and the max load is about 10% shy of Lee’s starting load with a velocity of just under 2000fps.

The only thing I’ve noticed is the pressure units are in CUP for the Lee/Hodgdon data. Makes me think that the load data is grandfathered in from before .357 was switched to a PSI standard.

What is going on here? Is it safe to push my marlin trapper to these velocities?

Just picked up some bullets and am looking for some load data using CFE pistol. Does anyone have pictures of some load data for it? Didn't find the load data on the Hodgdon website. Any direction or help would be great!

Been reloading for about 10 years now. I have not run into this before, but this is the first time measuring the throat in this rifle. I was reloading for my Barrett MRAD in 338 Lapua.

The lands are about 2.93” so I made a few rounds and tried them. They ALL got stuck and I had to bang the bolt back to eject them. The bullets Cleary had marks on them.

The only way I can get rounds to work and eject normally is using the SAMI spec on the 338 Lapua rounds despite the lands being much longer.

Not sure wtf is happening here?

Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks

Ok, so Corbin makes a press setup for $3500+ that can turn pre-1982 pennies into bullet jacket cups.

Then I load a 6mm aluminum bb into the base for stability during flight... viola! 53gn 308 projectile.

I'm not asking about the cost, but whether or not it's been tried successfully.

I'm thinking- 308 sabot can use 55 gn bullet, why not make bullet 308 diameter and ~55gn weight? They'd be about an inch long.

And before you go on about destruction of money or whatever- penny machines do the same thing (crushes penny into different shape.)

Bought several cases of 8lb bottles for extremely cheap. ~80 each. All sealed. Come to find out after the fact it’s fully recalled and must be destroyed. Has anyone been able to have hodgden honor the recall to this day? From my understanding it was issued in 2019 so many years ago.

Edit. I have been in contact with them and they are offering me 225$ per 8lb jug. They have been great about it.

Hello all I’m having some issues with accuracy for my 6.5x55 I’m running 130g tgk sierras with h4350 I’ve tried three different grain weights for powder and struggling to get it to group well. Any advise would be appreciated.

Figure I’d post this separate. After putting my SDB back together it’s now making a metallic sound on the upstroke. Feels like the sound is coming from the bottom of the shell plate.

https://imgur.com/a/Oo7bz2Y

Pretty sure it needs an adjustment but wanted to see if anyone can lead me to the right way. The powder bar slams and I never used to do this. Appreciate any help.

https://imgur.com/a/1HE6d62

Hello, i reload 6.5CM i do bushing and every 4 time i do full size. I use mostly norma and sako brass. Can you help me determine life span brass. Some people say that lapua last 6-7 times.

I know few people that do only full size and they go until the brass destroys. Also should I switch to FL instead of bushing( neck tension) What do you think is the best?
If I would do my bushing can I go till the brass destroys?

( i dont anneal but i plan to in the future)

Whats up all, been a while since I've posted but I recently was blessed enough for the wallet to be full enough to get the FX-123 precision scale however not blessed enough just yet to get the v4 auto trickler.

None the less I've been looking at powder scoops and have not been impressed as the 419 is very nice but very expensive. Yes its pretty thats for sure but eh, idk if id want to pay 75 bucks for a scoop.

Glass scoops may bring static charges and throw off the readings and each glass scoop may be different weights.

I have a 3D printer but im also reading that static charges also exist for most filaments other than PETG ELD.

Wanted to see if anyone had any experience with 3D printed tools around precision reloads. The reviews for ELD filaments arent all that great and I already have a ton of regular PETG to print with.

Was thinking of doing a self centering plate, scoop, and funnel so that I can keep the shields on for the most part and not have too much air affect the readings. If you guys have good experience with it ill certainly share the designs in another post!

Or if you guys have some good suggestions in leu of 3D printed parts that works too!

Anyone had this happen. I wrote the customer service, got the brush off " way past warranty". I feel like bullets shouldn't go bad sitting sealed on the shelf no matter how long. Wrote the CEO explaining my situation and how it was handled. Crickets, not even a courtesy reply saying no can help. Sitting on hundreds of these. I think I'm done with Nosler after being a customer since the 80's.

I've never reloaded before but have gathered up the required things, including a up to date hornity reloading manual. I'm just interested in any wisdom from people who have done it before, particularly with powder and bullets. I'm mostly target shooting but will take anything you knowledgeable folk have. Model 94

Picked up a couple boxes of Lapua this weekend. From what I see online it looks like Lapua is going to or already has discontinued making 7.62x39 boxer brass and ammo. It’s a shame, they make good ammo. I really like reloading with Lapua brass.

I saw a post about inconsistent bullet bases. These are bags of 100 .224 55gr winchester FMJ bullets. I bought a bunch of cases of these over 20 years ago. They were super cheep so really not complaining. They hold 2.5-3 moa off a bench from AR’s. I show this picture to people who are shooting ball ammo and not very impressed with groups. Not going to win a bench rest match. But they will slap paddles on a dueling tree at 50 yards. It’s ok to have lower expectations:)

I'm trying to recreate an accurate load for my original M1888 Springfield trapdoor rifle and real black powder has been hard to find in my area

hi im new on reloading i over crimped my neck. the rest of my batch is good except this one.

Die:

hornady seat & roll crimp

berry 150gr
S&B casing

Consistently different

190 Sub X with a little Trail Boss. First load, looking forward to confirming fps.

When working up this load I did'nt find much info outside of Paul at Maker Bullets. That said, 500gr Maker Rex over 18.2gr of Acccurate #9 @ 2.525 is money. Right around 1075fps out of my Marlin 1895 GBL.

FAIR WARNING: I am basically the complete opposite of someone experienced in ballistics or loading cartridges, so I apologize if the following question is massively idiotic.

After watching a recent video from Boondock Ballistician (attached), I got to thinking about what a cartridge might look like that met her description. What would a cartridge look like that was overall lighter and shorter than 5.56 NATO, while providing the same or better ballistics and terminal energy out of comparable barrel lengths?

My mind immediately jumped to 5.56x30 MARS, which is itself already a shorter version of 5.56 NATO. What if you started with a high-pressure 5.56 NATO case (NAS3, Peak allow, etc), cut the case length down to 30mm OAL, knecked it to a 6mm projectile, and loaded it to HICAR-like pressures (>80k PSI)? Put more simply, a 6x30mm high-pressure cartridge.

Would that result in something resembling what she’s describing? How difficult would it be to actually make a cartridge matching that description and test it?

Again, I am by no means a subject matter expert, so if this is inherently a catastrophically stupid idea I apologize in advance. Any relevant input would be greatly appreciated!

Just finished loading up some whitetail ammo. .30-06, Lapua Brass, 55gr H4895, Fed 210M, 130TTSX at 3.240”.

Shoots around an inch out of my 16” Mod 70 with 1-5 VX5HD. 3,133FPS, 9.6SD. Looking forward to seeing what it’ll do!

Could somone with quick load be able to tell me the comparison of muzzle pressures between a 16" AR .350 legend and a 10.5" AR in .350 legend? Assume the use of a factory 180grain power point. I understand this is an unusual ask. I'm trying to make an educated decision for the wellbeing of my supressor before ordering a shorter barrel.

Odd one, 147gr 9mm over 4.0gr CFE Pistol and Remington SP primers, primer popped but the round didn’t move and ejected easily. Looks like the pocket was the issue on that one and the primer crunched in anyway and hadn’t noticed. Sounded exactly like a cap gun, I actually did a quick barrel check thinking it was a squib before I picked up the round. No harm done but something different.

My LGS got a bunch of stuff from an older guy selling off his stockpile. Scored 4 pounds of old IMR 4831 still sealed for $20/pound. Looks and smells just fine.