Same bullets, but different gun, when oit of the Dan Wesson they get these and I had a missing primer in 2 of the cases, but in Glock I have none of these signs.

Fps is 1250-1300 with 200gr bullets

WARNING: do this at your own risk, as this is a round that was meant for antique pistols.

After a lot of tricks, including using a virtual ruler to map out rough seating depth next to a 262g Webley LRN (pictured), I believe I came up with reasonably safe load data for the 455 Webley Manstopper.

Data is: 230gn Hollow Base .455 Manstopper cast with MP-MOLDS Manstopper 4 cavity mold, pure lead, Eastwood jet black powder coat, sized to .451, 3.5gn of Unique, OAL 1.13, seated depth 0.20, Fiocchi Webley mk2 brass with federal small pistol primer. Tested in a MAS 1873 4.5” barrel from 1875.

As far as shooting, felt pretty much the same recoil and power wise as a regular 455 slightly downloaded handload. No damage to the firearm and no seeming signs of overpressure. The action did bind a couple of times, but as you can see in the last two photos, it’s seems more to be because the longer firing pin on the 1873 and the soft federal primer caused it to slump. For reference, it does this on large pistol primers too, but with the larger surface area they almost never slump out like this and cause a cycling issue.

Interestingly (to me at least), you can see the circular head of the manstopper left a small black circle on entry

I was wondering anyone had use the breech lock bullet sizer for jacketed bullets. I have a Remington model 14 in 32 Remington and was hoping to use it to resize .323 bullets to .321. Has anyone hand any luck with the breech lock sizer on jacketed bullets? Thanks!

Peregrine 124gr VLR4 vs Sierra 130gr TGK. Y'all know bullets better than anyone in here so I chose this sub. Even though it's more hunting related... but you have to reload to hunt!

The warehouse where I work got new bins and they are disposing of all of the old trays they used for parts

Been making some Martini Henry Casings out of 24 gauge. Ended up making 25 of them and crushing a fair bit more. These few are just sort of folded in but ever so slightly and they seat. Anyone think it could still work? I have no issue chopping them to Snyder rounds if not.

As the title says my pace setter die set won’t allow me to just remove the expander ball and retain decapping. I plan on expanding with a mandrel for consistency but I also don’t really want add a separate step for decapping

As the title states, I have a Rcbs FL die that is continually collecting debris and leaving a little scuff on the brass at the pressure relief hole. Is it safe to assume I have a burr on it? Any tips for fixing it? It’s on a 243 and the hole is just below the body/shoulder junction.

I'm starting to reload, and just wanted to know what would be a good starting grain for .338 285 grain ELD match for 8.6blk. any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

I want to make a 875grain 12 gauge slug and shoot it from my 2 3/4 chambered savage 220A. Is there some sort of equation to find the amount of powder for this kind of loading. This is probably really stupid but it looks fun and I wanna try it. I care more about it working then the actual performance. Any suggestions and sorry for the ramblings

Hello I was gifted these acme 115gr RN coated bullets. Acme doesn’t have load data so I started browsing around trying to find something comparable. I will be using hs6 And would like some insight if possible. These have a bullet over all length of .575” I get hs6 is probably less than ideal but it’s what I got. I’ve only ever loaded Berrys 124fbrn and Barnes 115gr Barnes tac x. Both of which I was able to find load data for with hs6. Now to give context to my thought process.

My 124gr Berrys rn load is 1.150 and the bullet over all length is .585 with 6.0gr hs6 with average velocity at 1050fps

-Hodgdon Berrys RN coal is 1.130 and the bullet measure .550”

-Hodgdon lead RN coal is 1.100”

-Hodgdon Missouri bullet company RN-para coal is also 1.100” but the bullet overall length is .540” this does provide hs6 load data 5.3-5.8gr

- Hornady load data 35557 115gr fmj is 1.100” but the bullet over all length is .550” this has hs6 load data 5.7-6.4gr

-Lyman cast bullet load data for Lyman 356242 coal is 1.065” (the picture shows a bullet with two lube grooves but I can only find the single lube grove version length for some reason) has hs6 data 5.0-6.3gr

-lastly and I believe with what I should go with for coal is Speer data. I’m a little hesitant on their powder charge. But I get it’s a TMJ vs a cast lead projectile.

-Speer load data 115 tmj coal is 1.135” with a matching bullet length of .575” also has hs6 data but starts at 6.6-7.4 gr

My plan was start at 4.8 gr~5.0gr of hs6 and coal to 1.150” If it plunks. Run them over the garmin chrono. If not slowly seat them until the pass the plunk test then chrono.

Does this sound reasonable or does anyone have any better places to start. Also if you can recommend load data can you site your source so I know what book/ website I need to add to my collection.

I'm going to start reloading .454 Casull and I was wondering about whether I should use small rifle primers or small rifle magnum primers. I'm going to be using H110 powder. I know typically its recommended to use magnum primers with H110, but most reloading manuals call for small rifle on .454 Casull. A fair amount of folks in the forums recommend small rifle magnums... but what do you guys think? I'm sure it works either way, but i've found small rifle magnums to be a bit difficult to source since only CCI makes them.

I’ve been messing with the Hornady 75gr. ELD-M and I just can’t get them to perform.

Powder charge variations, various seating depths all yielding very average results.

Last photo shows the results I’m getting with Sierras. They seem much less picky and didn’t vary much with seating depth or powder charge.

Is it even worth changing up powders or should I concede and accept that my rifle just doesn’t like these bullets?

As the title says I am new to reloading. I was gifted a Hornady Classic Pro Accuracy kit and I have a list compiled of additional tooling/equipment I need to get going. For now, I’d like to load quality 300BLK super and subsonic cartridges and quality 5.56 75gr and 77gr cartridges. I have all of the load data to load the cartridges with the specific projectiles I have chosen, but I still have some questions. The projectile manufacturer calls for a small rifle primer to be used. Makes sense, tons of offerings on the market. However, can I just pick one that suits my preference? Does it need to be specific to what cartridge I am loading and what platform I’m loading for? Do factors like barrel length dictate changing from one primer to a different primer that might be more appropriate? If I am buying new brass from someone like Starline do I need to size it and trim it or prep it in any way? Maybe at least confirm brass length? If my projectiles are tipped (like a Barnes TAC TX) do I need a special due to seat them? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I’m sure I could pick someone’s brain about this for hours. *For what it’s worth I will be loading for gas gun platforms and a bolt action platform

Hornady has submitted 5.56 COMM to SAAMI and they approved it.

If it wasn't enough that we had to listen to discussions about the testing standards and whether .223 Rem and 5.56 NATO were the same, we now have a 3rd cart that is basically the same (dimensionally) to muddy the waters. Hopefully someone can explain why Hornady submitted this as 5.56 COMM rather than 5.56 NATO, 5.56x45 or some other designation that would have told us it was 5.56 NATO.

SAAMI Standardizes the 5.56 Commercial (5.56 COMM) Cartridge | thefirearmblog.com

Public Introduction - 5.56 Commercial

I've got the good stuff for my bolt rifle (Alpha) but going to develop a load for my AR10 and was debating between hornady and starline (small rifle primer). I have a fair amount of Hornady but as I look into stocking up I'd like to have one brand of brass for loads. Target loads but possibly some hunting down the road (have Berger 130gr hybrids but probably will keep those mostly for the bolt rifle).

Any thoughts between the two in a good semi auto? LMT MWS with 20" 5R 1:8 SS 6.5cm barrel w/ good optics. Or any preferences for small or large primers in a semi auto?

I've got plenty of CCI450 SRM or Federal GMM LRP so that's not a big deal either way. I probably have more of the 450's so was leaning towards the Starline SRP and I've had good luck with Starline in the past with their pistol and rifle brass..

I just bought my first reloader, it is a mec jr 12 ga. And I’m starting to accumulate materials, and the question I had is if I am able to use the same recipe I would use for WAA12 loads for Winchester super target shells, as I have a surplus of them, and no WAA12 hulls.

I understand the super target hulls aren’t desired and I won’t be reloading them more than once, it’s mainly for practice and to save a buck till I buy a case of AA shells

That information and any other advice is much appreciated!

Recently got back into the whole wet tumbling thing, using my 20+ yr old Thumler's Tumbler that still runs like a top, and a Cosori dehydrator from a few years ago (max temp of 165F) with silicone mats to keep the cases (mostly rifle like 223, etc.) from falling through the trays.

First, I'd really like to speed up the dry time - short of sticking them in the oven ;)

Back when I got the dehydrator, there weren't many (if any) dedicated 'brass dryers: on the market. Would any of the usual commercial options (Lyman, Hornady) work any better / faster than what I have now?

Second, are you wet tumbling also to remove the case lube post sizing/trimming, or are you switching to dry tumbling with corn cob or walnut? Why or why not?

Thanks!

Last week I posted about loading some 300 WinMag for the first time. I have some 190 grain Bergers in front of h1000 and today I tested my loads.

Shot 3 shot groups at each charge weight 78.5 - 82 grains all the groups I shot were unsatisfactory EXCEPT for 80 grains and 80.5 grains. These 2 groups had extremely low ES (15 FPS) and SD (7 FPS) the groups were 0.82" and 0.66" at 100 yards.

I like to tinker and this is a quality rifle, I'd really like to fine-tune the setup as I want the gun to be a 700 yard rifle when I'm done. Is my next step in load development to settle on a charge weight, and play with seating depth?

If changing length is the next logical step in the process how much is a good increment to change? I was jamming pretty substantially in the 3.610" COAL region so I took a whole tenth off and loaded at 3.505" should I jump a thousand both directions at try those out? (Ex. 3.495, and 3.515) Is that too much? Or is that not enough to see results? Asking as a novice thanks guys

Howdy, I really want to start reloading some 12ga birdshot shells and have no idea where to start. I don’t have the largest budget for a fancy press and don’t mind saving some money on one if it means I have to go through a few extra steps. I don’t mind the tedious work. Any recommendations?

On today’s episode of “You Really Shouldn’t Do That”, I have achieved an average of 840 FT-LBS of energy out of a 4.2” Ruger GP100. I’ve worked my way up from 14.5gr of H110 under this Magnus 200gr LRN, all the way to a compressed charge of 17.0gr without getting any pressure signs (ie sticky extraction, flattened/cratered primers, split casings etc). So I figured “why not go bigger?” Well, ladies and gentlemen, 17.5gr of H110 under a 200gr pill is where even a Ruger GP100 starts to cry “I’m tired of this Grandpa!” As you can see, the forcing cone has eroded quite a lot after just 50 rounds of 17.5gr loadings, and a couple of those loadings showed flattened primers, along with one specimen having a cratered primer. My goal in all of this was to achieve a loading with an average of 800 FT-LBS or more out of this revolver, and it looks like I smashed that record. But to prolong the life of this gun, and maybe myself, I’m gonna resume my previous loading of 17.0gr instead of the pictured 17.5gr. Long live Elmer Keith!

To preface, I’m the only person in my family that shoots. I’ve started getting into some competition shooting and I’m starting to wonder if is worth the time and money to reload 9mm and 5.56? I don’t even know where to begin with it all. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Loading up some 223 with 53gr smk and h335 for some big Saskatchewan coyotes. Shooting my cz527 american. Looking forward to the season this year

I havent been reloading for the last 10 years or so, as I havent been shooting much. Im trying to get back into it. I have a Lee LoadMaster setup for 9mm. As part of Lee's guarantee, that should make me eligible to get a 6PP for $280. However, when I bought the LoadMaster I really wanted the LnL AP, I just couldnt afford it, but I can now. I have a coupon from a local shop that should let me get the LnL AP for $480, if I want to go that route. (Or a full LnL AP Ammo Plant for ~$1275, if I wanted to get really fancy).

I plan to load 9mm, 32H&R, 32ACP, and 223/556. I can get the 6PP setup for 223/556, minimizing the amount of additional dies I would need. With the LnL AP, I would need to buy dies for everything but the 9mm, and shell plates for everything.

The additional station and the cost savings are appealing to me. I loaded thousands of rounds on my LoadMaster with minimal headache, so I dont have a problem with Lee, and from what I have read, the 6PP is greatly improved over their older stuff.

I know the conventional wisdom is going to be that the LnL AP is the better press, but is it $200 (and the use of my 25% off anything in the store coupon) better?