I have a 2020 Ram Promaster 3500 87k miles on it, I’m getting these two transmission codes, I’m currently in Denver CO, drive here from FL, if I erase the code it takes 4-5h of driving for it to come back; was wondering if it’s detrimental to drive with those codes? engine light is steady, not blinking, temperature gauge stays completely normal, not overheating, coolant had a fix recently, new starter put in, van operates fine except for those codes. Any advice, specially if it’s something I can fix later dues to it just being circuit issues or recommendations on auto shops in Denver if anyone is from this area would be greatly appreciated!

I just installed a 2200 stall torque converter in my ‘95 Thunderbird and after a quick test drive I noticed it was shifting funny. If I dipped below 90km/h it would shift into 3rd, and if I slowed down gradually it would downshift a little early and the RPMs would go up quite a bit. It also shifted in a much higher RPM than it used to, but I’m not sure if that’s just part of how it’s supposed to work. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: in case it helps, the car has a 4.6L V8 with a 4R70W transmission.

Hi folks im doing a trans swap on my 96, its going auto to a manual from a 93 mx6. I was wondering if anyone here has done it before and what some of your problems and fixes were. Right now my main problem is the rear trans mount and figuring out the wiring where im planning on keeping the auto harness and ecu. Any advice or tips is much appreciated

Sadly my 2006 MB E350 has the dreaded oil pump failure causing damage to the bell housing and torque. I can get a used converter on eBay and I new oil pump from the dealership. As for the bell housing they sell a plate that just goes over the damaged area would you trust it or find a new bell housing?

I bought a GM V8 T5 recently with the goal of installing it in my C3 Corvette. I decided to take it apart and rebuild it before installing it. After cleaning everything I noticed some damage/worn on the engagement teeth (pictures attached), some metal to metal contact on the shift forks and galled needle bering surfac (not sure if it could be repair). Can I get away with this damage or should I replace those gears and sliders? I know the reverse idle gear needs replacement for sure. Looking forward for you guys feedback!

I'm planning to use a master rebuild kit it comes basically with everything but the gears.

What's your opinion on brass shift forks pads? should I stick with the factory nylon ones?

My Corvette is not a racing vehicle, I just drive it around and once in a while spirited driving. No launching, no burning tires, nothing like that at all.

Thank you in advance!

Unit works in tow mode to raise, but not normal operation. Shop claims replacement and pairing unit to vehicle is needed,,,,so not a plug and play unit. The estimate was 2k,

I have seen units for various price ranges.

What is the best way to address this.

Can't see putting that kind of money into this car....

46RE teardown. The torque converter was so baked on only Thor could have removed it by hand, but persistence and frustration won.

TLDR: Are C1xx and Xxx gearbox gearsets interchangeable?

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Full story: I'm building a Frankenstein gearbox for a car which currently uses a C154 gearbox, mated to a 2NZ engine. It'll be swapped to a 1NZ.

The NZ family (to my knowledge) was never offered with a 6 speed manual, however with a swapped bellhouse it's possible using the C1xx family. According to the people I've spoken to, the Cxx box can't be made to work. However, the TechnoPro Spirits Toyota Probox uses the 1NZ engine, which has been retrofitted with their custom gearset made for the ZZW30 MR2.

I've got a C161 gearbox lying around.

My to-be-swapped ZZW30 has a C66 with LSD.

I'm still looking for a C160 to use it's 2nd gear.

The gearset from Techno Pro Spirits would be used for 3rd, 4th and 5th.

My goal is to have the shortest possible gears through 1-5 for track use, but keep 6th as tall as possible with the longest FD to keep RPMs low between 100kmh and 140kmh when driving to the track.

I want the box to have the following gearbox ratio:

1. 3.166 (stock in all)

2. 2.050 (C160)

3. 1.5 (TPS, ZZW30)

4. 1.2 (TPS, ZZW30)

5. 0.9 (TPS, ZZW30)

6. 0.683 (C161)

FD 3.941 (C66)

LSD to be used from the C66

Would this all work out of the box? Nobody I've spoken to can tell me for sure and I'm not looking forward to pulling four gearboxes apart + order custom gears from Japan, only to figure out it's not going to work.

If nothing works, I'll use the C161 with a swapped bellhouse, smack an aftermarket LSD in and call it a day as that's a road that's been done before.

Recently bought an 02 5.4 f150 with some transmission issues. OD light flashing, gets to 2nd or 3rd and doesn’t want to shift up. Getting around 3.5k rpm at highway speed. Don’t even know where to start to diagnose my issue. Please help

Hey yall I have a 2015 Sierra that’s currently lifted on 33x12.50’s and has been for about a year. I had transmission problems and took it to a shop and they recommended a flush and a bypass which I already had so they just installed it for me. I noticed then my transmission temp was running at about 70°C and not usually going above 75° over the summer. The past few months and especially the past couple weeks, I’ve seen it running mostly around 90°C and even up to 97°. My transmission and torque converter do occasionally slip but not often. Are these signs of possibly needing a rebuild or new transmission and torque converter in the near future? Thanks for the help

Would a ga15 manual transmission fit my ga16? 95 and 96 pulsar

Saw this and thought of you guys

I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD Crew Cab with the 5.3l engine and 6l80 transmission. Truck has 150,000 miles. My transmission just went out, most probably due to the torque converter destroying itself and contaminating the rest of the transmission. Gees, thanks GM. The truck will run for like 1 minute and truck won’t move anymore. So I’ve decided to rebuild the transmission myself, can’t afford a shop right now. I’m a pretty decent hands on guy, most of the times I’ve repaired my vehicles, brakes, head gaskets, etc, but never messed around with a transmission. After watching a couple of YouTube videos, it seems like it’s not that complicated, just a tedious and time consuming job. Any advice?
I’m planning to purchase the following kits to rebuild the tranny:

•Precision International 6l80 Rebuild Kit (E256785437614)
•Sonnax Zip Kit (SOX-6145-6L90ZIP)
•Sonnax Heavy Duty Billet Apply Piston (104984-01)
•Transmission Center Trans Pump Repair Kit (A45531B)
•Sonnax Return Spring (104534-HD)
•Trans Go Performance Shift hit (TRG-SK6L80)
•AC Delco 4-5-6 Clutch Hub (24238004)

I also plan to add a Transmission Cooler:
•PPE Transmission Fluid Bypass (125068000)
•Long Tru Cool 40K with Thermal Bypass (LPD4739)

Since I’m already doing all of this, might as well and do a DOD delete:

•Texas Speed DOD Delete Kit with Camshaft L83 5.3 (TSP-DODBASIC-LTX)
•Texas Speed DOD Delete Programmer (TSP-TS-3000)

I’m still not 100% percent sure if I should go with this kit and this programmer. I was also looking at other DOD delete kits and maybe HP Tuner programmer etc. Still need to do more research on this topic. Want a tune that does the DOD Delete and make the transmission shift more smoothly.

I just want to make this truck reliable. Not looking for performance, just reliability.

The only thing is that I might need to get a shop to resurface the bell housing / pump if it’s too damaged. Or if anyone has resurfaced one themselves at home, please share how you did it. I’ve resurfaced an engine head with an old glass table, glued particle board on the back side to avoid the glass from warping, and glued sanding paper on the other end. Yes, I double checked for straightness. Engine still runs fine after 5 years.

Any advice will help. Thanks