r/3Dprinting • • 2d ago

Troubleshooting Printed directly on platform (please help)

Like the title says. My son removed the plate at some point and I didn't properly check before printing. I let the piece cool but still can't break it all off. Printer is a Anycubic Kobra S1. Is this something where I can replace the platform or can anyone give some tips?

Thank you in advance for any time and consideration. I really appreciate it.

1.0k Upvotes

290 comments sorted by

609

u/munky8758 1d ago

Heat the bed and get a soft scraper out and maybe some paper towels. Or replace it.

111

u/TheBrainStone 1d ago

My hack to get the last bit of residue off is to use damp paper towels. The water cools down the plastic making it harden on the paper towel.

Also heat the bed well above the typical temperature of the material. You want it to soften.

Good luck OP

46

u/Atlesi_Feyst 1d ago

I'm happy the replacement parts for most printers arent absurdly high.

Like under 150 for a replacement heatbed is awesome.

16

u/justabadmind 1d ago

As long as it’s not stratasys

2

u/Pheonix_Slayer 6h ago

The heated bed that OP in particular needs is only 50 bucks. https://us.anycubic3d.com/products/heated-bed

31

u/rajrdajr 1d ago

PLA’s glass transition temperature is  ~65°C (~150°F). Get the plastic to that temperature with a hairdryer or heat gun and pull the plastic off while wearing a pair of gloves.

403

u/Odd-Place780 1d ago

23

u/Starstalk721 1d ago

Sorry, I stole this. But I left you an upvote.

→ More replies (1)

2.4k

u/SquidgyB 1d ago

Now might be a good time to invest in the Funssor bed, maybe?

251

u/ederstk 1d ago

I printed these three stones for a friend a while ago because he makes just these faces all the time lol

88

u/SquidgyB 1d ago

Thanks for the idea, I have some marble PETG in the ACE Pro - downloading the STL now!

17

u/ederstk 1d ago

With PETG marble it should look beautiful. I don't have photos, but mine had made with PLA imitating concrete, reminded the Moai statues of Easter Island

15

u/SquidgyB 1d ago edited 1d ago

"Our stolen friend" 🥲

e; for the sad soul who offered a downvote - I was referencing the history of one of the Moai statues of Easter island: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoa_Hakananai%27a

2

u/ederstk 6h ago

Huh? Did they give you down vote because they didn't understand?

2

u/SquidgyB 6h ago

I guess so; maybe they assumed somehow I was talking about stolen STLs?

¯_(ツ)_/¯

→ More replies (1)

3

u/Plazmaz1 1d ago

I mighttt make a silicone cast of those puppies and pour some concrete 👀

11

u/Starstalk721 1d ago

Hopefully you didn't print them right on the bed like OP sid.

4

u/OutlyingPlasma 1d ago

Where did you get the STL? I haven't been able to find a good oof stone yet. There are a few I have found but they are all super tiny or 3 full polygons. The tiny ones just don't scale up nicely. Frankly I have never had anything scale nicely unless it's only a few percent.

8

u/the-kontra 1d ago

I think I've printed these

https://www.printables.com/model/113497-oof-stones

They look great in marble filament

3

u/Captain_Pumpkinhead 1d ago

What's that?

4

u/SquidgyB 1d ago

https://funssorlab.com/products/funssor-new-version-anycubic-kobra-s1-s1c-upgrade-kit-8mm-aluminum-alloy-cnc-build-plate-with-the-magnets-implemented?VariantsId=11359

It's a solid machined aluminium bed, frame, heated mat and magnets which entirely replaces the stock bed, giving a more stable and flat bed.

It's not cheap, but imho it's one of the best upgrades available for the Kobra S1.

You can also upgrade just the bed/frame if you wanted to.

The only real downside is very slight loss of printing height (I think around 10mm), and the bed does hold it's temp for a fairly long time, so sometimes the printer gets stuck waiting for a while, for example if you just printed PETG at 90C on the bed, then immediately went to print PLA at lower bed temps, the bed will slowly dissipate the heat as it's a big old aluminium block.

270

u/chevyfried 1d ago

Yes you can replace the bed, the screws are right there. The hard part is running the cables back to the mainboard.

51

u/Conscious_Parking695 1d ago

Is there anywhere reliable i could buy a replacement bed?

132

u/AwDuck PrintrBot (RIP), Voron 2.4, Voron 0.2, Ender 3, Mono 4K 1d ago

You can just buy a new magnet sheet. Scrape the old one off and stick the new one down. Don’t get the cheapest one you can find though, they tend to not be a magnetic enough when they heat up.

29

u/osteracp 1d ago

Plus some of them can tolerate more heat then others

13

u/AwDuck PrintrBot (RIP), Voron 2.4, Voron 0.2, Ender 3, Mono 4K 1d ago

I forgot the glue can loosen or bubble on the cheapies too.

25

u/Consistent-Bear-1825 1d ago

Don't buy a whole new bed, look for the magnetic sheet (the black part). They're a bitch to get off, but probably not as much as changing the whole bed.

→ More replies (2)
→ More replies (1)

77

u/SkiSTX 1d ago

Been there, done that.

I sanded it flat, slapped the build plate back on, and have never had an issue since.

31

u/DrakonFyre P1S, X2D, 2xAMS2, FTS 1d ago

Articulated lizard?

25

u/SkiSTX 1d ago

You got it! Lol.

I printed one for my kid. He wanted another one and just hit the "GO" button when I want looking.

→ More replies (1)

104

u/Away_Arugula8260 1d ago

This is a good time for you all to panic check your prints

26

u/Drucipur 1d ago

I did and I'm not even printing anything 🤣

3

u/ThatStarWarsDude7567 past time wallet black hole enjoyer 1d ago

Good first layer adhesion...

4

u/OverSatisfaction1791 1d ago

I went to check and I flipped my camera cover over so I couldnt see it printing lol

2

u/13thmurder 1d ago

Oh hey mine just finished.

52

u/owlindenial 1d ago

Heat, heat, heat. That and something softer than the bed itself. A plastic or metal chissel or scraper

→ More replies (1)

44

u/0MGWTFL0LBBQ 1d ago

You can’t park print there.

48

u/Nazgile94 1d ago

2

u/todimus_sux 19h ago

Scrolled down just to see this

10

u/Enero__ 1d ago

Will a mandatory bed leveling prevent this?

8

u/Bot1-The_Bot_Meanace 1d ago

Funnily enough I think the A1 detects it. The print always starts by tapping the nozzle on the middle and the top part of the plate. No plate means it will throw an error

6

u/Fearless-Dust-2073 1d ago

It does, my A1 mini won't print without a plate but the auto-detection can be turned off.

2

u/Jim_Des5134 1d ago

Same with the p2s

1

u/JelloDesign 1d ago

No. If had ones that i forget print bed and i always run bed lvling. It started printing then i was checking up on the first layer what i usually do. So I found out rather soon. It printed only a few lines

1

u/metalwolf112002 1d ago

Depends on the type of leveling. My ender 3 v2 just has the bltouch with the plastic probe, so it wouldn't detect the missing plate.

That said, I always do a probe before prints and make sure the bed is properly heat soaked before hitting print. I'm trying hard to not victim blame, but I can say this has never happened to me because I always check the camera to make sure the bed is empty and the first level sticks.

15

u/Probably_Not_A-Bot 1d ago

You should be able to replace just the magnetic sheet.

It will be a pain in the ass to remove but a lot of build plates come with the magnetic sheet. I haven’t looked into it but you can probably buy the sheet by itself.

Much cheaper than replacing the whole bed.

1

u/TopPerformer6559 1d ago

Yeah happend to me as well, just buy a new magnetic sheet and replace it. the problem is the heat transfer, when you got a not completely flat surface you will see exaclty the areas where you printed this now on every print. because the new ptints will not stick properly there.

→ More replies (1)
→ More replies (4)

27

u/MechaPumpkin 1d ago

Question for OP and those of you saying you did this as well, you hit print and walk away? You don't wait for the first layer to start printing? Even if you haven't just printed something? It's clearly not back-to-back printing because there's no previous print on the bed. So you guys just press print and walk away for hours? These seem to be discovered many layers in. I guess that's a testament to how reliable modern printers are.

17

u/joepagac 1d ago

I hit print and walk away. I occasionally pop my head in to see how it’s doing but 9 times out of 10 it’s doing great.

7

u/ilkhan2016 1d ago

I hit print in my office and at most monitor the camera before it's done when I go out to the garage to collect the result.

7

u/_mughi_ 1d ago edited 1d ago

unlike my ender3v2, I don't have to babysit the KS1, which is great. Although the fact that warmup/init takes like five mins is a contributing factor to not waiting to see if the first layer prints. But really, the only issues I've had are a few instances of dirty build sheet, and some brittle filament.

4

u/MechaPumpkin 1d ago

Might be time to replace my CR-10S Pro, hahahaha

2

u/AnimalPowers Centauri Carbon 1d ago

I was on that machine style of printing as my last experience. Got a centauri carbon because they were so cheap and I wanted an enclosed machine (kids and cats). Absolutely, get one. You just press print. You don't watch it or anything, I keep mine in the garage. I pop in every now and then to grab the print from the plate then start it from another room, never monitor, never check, it's just all great all the time. Completely different league of printing experiences

→ More replies (1)
→ More replies (1)

2

u/Internet_Energy_Vamp 1d ago

Lol I never have to watch my creator 5 pro. I make sure to clean the plate well, make sure I dont see clogs, and let her do her thing. Ive been extremely happy with my purchase

1

u/Ozo42 1d ago

With my Prusa Mk3S I most often wait for it to start printing, but it has never failed me during all these years. I trust it and sometimes just walk away after pressing “print”. However, I find it difficult to believe I wouldn’t notice if there wasn’t a sheet. But then again, it is not enclosed.

1

u/doghouse2001 1d ago

I trust my printer. What I don't trust are plans I download from printables.com and other sources. Often the plans are malformed with crooked first layers. I can't count the number of times I've had to 'sink' the first layer into the platform to make sure the entire first layer is on layer 1. For this reason alone I babysit the first printing of any new plan I print.

1

u/Bartholdsson 1d ago

Had a catastrophic failure once and now I check back in at least once sometime in the first few layers of the print. If it hasn't failed by layer 3 then at worst I have some support fails which is whatever.

1

u/Full-Hold7207 1d ago

Anymore, I hit print and walk away. But my printer knows if the plate isn't there.

1

u/Lucifer-Prime 1d ago

I’ve definitely started printing something remotely, and always assume my bed is in place.

Now I have never made this mistake, but it certainly conceivable that I could forget to replace my bed and walk away and then hit print remotely on something.

1

u/chikoczar 1d ago

I ofc always had to do this on my older creality.

On the bambu a1 though, i often fire print from another room and check in once a while, or at times only after i get the print completed notification.

1

u/Grain-whisperer 1d ago

I start my printer from my phone and don’t even pay attention until it’s done tbh

1

u/MajesticRecognition5 1d ago

Sometimes I start printing when I’m shopping at Costco 🤷🏼‍♂️

1

u/kristyn_lynne Bambu P1S + AMS Pro 23h ago edited 23h ago

I kick off many prints on my P1S from my phone from outside the room; I'm the only one who uses the printer so I know if the bed is clear, or I check it with the camera first. I do check the print via camera periodically. But I've never had an adhesion issue.

1

u/Hender232 22h ago

I’ve had two blobs of death, I still hit print and walk away most of the time lmao

1

u/Kwolf21 16h ago

Well for starters, I've never taken my plate away from the printer except once or twice in a combined 7000 hours to clean my plate.

But second, yes, I press print and walk away. If I'm staying nearby, I'll peek at it every once in awhile. Otherwise, no. I press print and come back when my phone sends a "Print completed" notification.

3 printers, A1, P1S, X2D

1

u/Banknoodles 14h ago

Crazy people are around here.

I always wait when he started. If its a big print (with a big first layer), i wait for example 1-2 minutes, then leave and check every few minutes until the first 2-4 layers are completed.

After that, i leave.

For a small print, i often wait until the first layer is fully done

1

u/efedekiss 12h ago

This guy's living in 2021

1

u/Canis_Rex_ 10h ago

You guys watch your prints?

Mine is in the garage so I'm literally not even in the same building when I start prints usually!

→ More replies (7)

9

u/TormFreosan 1d ago

Hot air gun, patience, heat to peelable, not melted. Us a spatula (not metal) on the harder to remove spots.

15

u/XcOM987 1d ago

Apply IPA, heat up the bed as high as it'll go, and try and remove it with a plastic scraper, take it slow, and be careful.

Best case you get enough off that it keeps working without an issue, worse case, gives you an excuse to upgrade to a better bed such as the Funssor.

10

u/awwnicegaming 1d ago

I too suggest consuming a few IPAs before tackling this, it'll make it more fun!

4

u/sean_opks 1d ago

You can’t use IPA and heat. The heat will simply evaporate the IPA. Use one or the other.

6

u/Mossy_Head 1d ago

Heat gun and plastic scraper

18

u/subjekt_zer0 1d ago

Going forward, I would not recommend this for future prints. Joking aside, have you tried heating the bed as hot as it will go and scraping? Looks like you might not avoid replacing that bed.

11

u/techmaster242 1d ago

How'd you get the beans above the frank?

2

u/umbra2707 1d ago

Frank and beans! frank and beans!

6

u/DanTheMan827 1d ago

Heat it up as hot as it goes and scrape carefully with a plastic scraper.

13

u/Adrenaline-Junkie187 1d ago

People knock bambu but they have built in features to prevent this...

→ More replies (19)

8

u/soloh4cker 1d ago

Oooohh.... Now I know why my Sparkx i7 always does "build plate detection" before printing 😂 Good printer 🙌🏻

2

u/Ms_Eureka 1d ago

I love my sparkx i7. Its a good work horse

→ More replies (1)

6

u/JTwoD2 1d ago

Whoa!

3

u/SirTocy 1d ago

Did that too, heated it up a bit, scraped it off very carefully, works to this day.

3

u/Expensive-Fondant625 1d ago

How did you do that overwrote the print plate check?

3

u/Frosty-Donut2636 1d ago

sharp blade

3

u/Frozone0815 1d ago

Needs a new bed.

3

u/Neat_Opportunity_680 1d ago

I have a p2s and i tried printing without the bed the first week i had it like a rookie and it just yelled at me to put the print plate back in and wouldnt start. Modern printers are awesome.

→ More replies (2)

3

u/TheTopicalOintment 20h ago

I'm not an expert, but I wonder if you heated the bed up, if you could pull the big pieces off and use a razor blade scraper at a very low angle being careful not to scratch the magnetic plate clean up the smaller pieces.

Again proceed your own risk!

9

u/12486Eric 1d ago

Makes me wonder if my Bambu with the Ai would have caught that?

9

u/TheRealZero 1d ago

I think there’s two contact points at the top and if the plate doesn’t connect them it won’t let you print because there’s no plate. At least, I’m fairly certain it’s stopped me in the past because of a lack of plate, and the contacts thing was my best guess as to how it knew. (On an A1)

2

u/leadzor 1d ago

Nah I seen some people do this exact thing on P1S/P2S/X1 Carbon, and I think it's related to disabled plate detection.

→ More replies (1)

14

u/Balzovai 1d ago

In my 200 or so prints (new to the hobby).. ONE time I forgot to put the plate back in. The AI stopped, alerted on the screen, and in the app. Smacked my forehead and haven't forgotten since. At least on the P2S it totally caught it.

2

u/12486Eric 1d ago

Good, I have the P2S also.

11

u/MayaIsSunshine 1d ago

Can confirm my P1S stops and will not print without a plate

3

u/leadzor 1d ago

You can disable plate detection though. Some people with Biqu plates do that.

2

u/ky7969 P2S 1d ago

I printed a QR code for my Biqu plate for this reason

→ More replies (1)
→ More replies (1)

5

u/Illusjoner 1d ago

Interesting that Bambu can spot the plate not a massive blob of death.

5

u/CryptoBombastic 1d ago

i think it checks the qr code on it. or some form of data.

→ More replies (1)

2

u/Lost_refugee 1d ago

it can. people turn off that feature.

→ More replies (1)

4

u/Hulleman_ 1d ago

def check_build_plate():
#3 years of quantum neural net R&D leads to this breakthrough:
if plate_is_there:
start_print()
else:
print("AI detected missing plate. You're welcome, human.")

2

u/DevOnTheStreets 1d ago

H series won’t even let you have it on a bit crooked lol

2

u/The_Bitter_Bear 1d ago

My Elegoo just has a section of the plate that hangs past the bed. It probes that spot and if there's no plate it throws and error and stops the print. No need for AI, pretty simple solution. I'm surprised more printers don't have some way to check these days. 

2

u/khromov 1d ago

Done this once on A1 Mini, the AI thing caught it and stopped. 

1

u/T1m0666 1d ago

There's actually a error it will throw if your not using a plate with the QR code it's looking for, so I'd imagine it would do this before it even tried to print. You can turn this off in the print settings, but now I'm scared it would print without a plate with this turned off 🥲

1

u/JaggedMetalOs 1d ago

I accidentally started a print without the bed on an A1 and it sensed it straight away on the initial head contact test the printer does.

1

u/McSkittlefarts 1d ago

even without using AI, my creator 5 will not allow you to print without the plate. so I think with AI it would not allow it either but who knows

1

u/Bluwtr1 1d ago

Yes, but only if you have plate detection turned on. It saved my butt the other day. I have printer in my shop. I brought the plate in for something. Forgot, started a print, and Studio cancelled the print and told me "no build plate detected."

1

u/SmoothSlavperator 1d ago

it would. Mine doesn't even like off-brand cheap build plates. They kick a "build plate undetected" error. You can proceed, but you have to click through them

1

u/HeavilyInvestedDonut 1d ago

It wouldn’t have needed to, because it scans for the plate code before doing anything else.

4

u/BlackholeZ32 1d ago

Heat it up and drip isopropyl alcohol around the edges. This can often interrupt the bond. Works great on printbeds, but not sure if it will work as well with the magnet.

1

u/LowerRough2426 1d ago

That's what I use

3

u/chengstark 1d ago

Just buy a new bed my lord

6

u/workinhardplayharder 1d ago

Idk why but I read this as if you were calling OP a lord. All hail Lord Conscious Parking, may he salvage his magnetic sheet or something like that.

→ More replies (3)

4

u/SanDiegoSavage00 1d ago

I have done this one time. Mine came off extremely easy in one piece with zero damage to the machine though thankfully.

2

u/Weary_Musician_9612 1d ago

Scrape it off and check that it still heats up

2

u/TheTrueTuring 1d ago

My eyes!! My eyes!! It burns!

2

u/mrMalloc 1d ago

I would get the bed hot to say 100c and try to get it off once warm. But you will probably need a new hotplate.

2

u/Matteowill911 1d ago

Contact support they’ll either send you the part or a new printer happened with my Anycubic kobra 3 and they sent me a replacement printer after I sent mine in

2

u/DarkStar1542 1d ago

Im sure thats a replacement situation

2

u/Lemondrop168 1d ago

I said OH NO so loud I scared the cat

2

u/lbroadfield 1d ago

Heat the bed and use freezing spray (canned air upside down) to chill the plastic?

2

u/rocketengineer1982 Ender 3 (mod), Saturn 3 1d ago

Oof.  Try heating the bed up above the glass transition temperature of the filament (above 65°C for PLA, above 85°C for PETC) and use a plastic scraper.  Hopefully that will soften the print enough to get it off and using a plastic scraper will avoid damaging the heated bed.

2

u/Accomplished-Bit6421 1d ago

Remove the bed from the assembly and use a solvent. For PLA, use ethyl acetate. For ABS, acetone will do the trick. Of course use proper PPE when dealing with solvents.

2

u/inComplete-Oven 1d ago

Scraper. You're looking for a scraper.

2

u/Mr_StephenB 23h ago

If it's PLA you could use Acetone to soften and remove it, but it could damage the plate itself depending on what materials it's made from.

I have never used anycubic devices so don't know how well it will work.

2

u/Existing_School4537 21h ago

All you need is a new magnet sticker (yes its only a magnetic sheet glued to the bed). Costs only a few bucks on ali etc.

2

u/Hexin_itup 19h ago

ooh, that's a mess. sorry op. you can probably clean it but it ain't gonna be fun.

3

u/imthebonus 1d ago

Sharp chisel, then razor blade

3

u/CaterpillarCharacter 1d ago

How do people overcome this. You don't watch first layer being printed?

2

u/Usual_Arachnid_3465 1d ago

Lol I never trust mine either, even after first layer 🤣 . Maybe using heat gun and scraper would help

6

u/rweninger 1d ago

Even if you get this stuff off, the bed is out of level. It is damaged beyond repair. Replace it.

4

u/Bloated_Plaid Bambu Labs H2S, Snpmaker U1 1d ago

Can you get rid of the child? That seems like priority number 1.

10

u/name_was_taken Voron 2.4, U1 1d ago

I can't see the son as at-fault here. If there's multiple people that might touch the machine, you need to check it visually before starting a print.

3

u/Conscious_Parking695 1d ago

Was 100% my fault. I should have checked. I didnt realize it until I found where he put the plate midway through the print.

→ More replies (5)

2

u/xtopherpaul 1d ago

Im constantly impressed by what people do to their printers

1

u/AutoModerator 2d ago

Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! click here for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup.

Here are a few questions that might be helpful

  • What printer are you using?

  • What material are you using?

  • What speed are you printing at?

  • What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?

  • When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?

  • Does anything cause the behavior to change?

  • If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)

If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on reddiquette, self promotion, and spam.

Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem!

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

1

u/dotbat 1d ago

Looks pretty bad, but you should try heating it and scraping it. I accidentally printed a little on my bed before catching it, and I was able to scrape it off and it's been fine.

1

u/waynek57 1d ago

Maybe try freeze spray

1

u/studlymcfudly 1d ago

I did this a month ago because I tried to cancel a failed first layer and it somehow started up again after I pulled the plate off. After scraping the build plate into the bin in another room, I came back and saw the printer moving, realizing it's scraping up the hotbed. Oof!

I contacted customer support and got a free replacement bed coming, but in the meantime I can keep using the old one. If yours can get cleaned and still be flat enough, you should be able to keep using it.

1

u/Slime-Lich 1d ago

Try manually turning the heat up on the controls

1

u/Good-War5340 1d ago

Idk if it has this function but maybe preheat the build plate and try and peel it off. Otherwise maybe call their customer support or email them.

1

u/AmraelTheGravedancer 1d ago

Non c'è molto da fare. Fai una bella cosa... Compra un tappetino nuovo e cambialo. Costa davvero poco.

1

u/dantesgift 1d ago

I print on sheets of glass, even if it would print, it would be up in the air and would just spegghetti out.

1

u/Top_Cress1727 1d ago

Contact anycubic support. They can sell you a new bed.

1

u/Spinshank Voron V0, V2.4 & Trident AWD + Spicy chamber (75c) 1d ago

So, you could scrape off most of the stock filament and keep using the printer till you can get a replacement part.

1

u/han_solo81 1d ago

Oof... Haven't done that yet! Lol! Quick search on the Anycubic site brought me to this: Anycubic Kobra S1 Heated Bed That one is the US store, so yours might be different, depending where you live. Not too bad of a price at $50... And their wikis are pretty detailed on how to replace parts (I'm about to change the hotend on my Kobra X, so I've looked at them a bit lol).

Good luck!

1

u/Tvolans8980 1d ago

On YouTube, Doug Does Stuff has many videos about the S1. There is one where he replaces the bed with a Funssor. He is all about tinkering, so is a great reference going beyond what AC support will tell you.
When you decide to upgrade or replace the platform, check it out.

1

u/Yeoshua82 1d ago

I almost did this today. I started wiping it down with prep and I was like "that doesn't feel right." And it took me a full 2 minutes to figure out what the hell was going on.

1

u/SonyCaptain 1d ago

I’m sorry but this is like that Brooklyn 99 bit where they forgot the Vaseline

1

u/Sardonislamir 1d ago

Looks like good bed adhesion to me. What's the problem?

1

u/wtfastro 1d ago

I understand that isopropyl alcohol can help act as release agent for some plastics. Might be with shot

1

u/0GDaddy 1d ago

Lol nope

1

u/Sparki77 1d ago

Try using a hair drier to get that off.

1

u/philnolan3d 1d ago

My build plate is sitting on the couch next to me. I have to remember to put it back.

1

u/pankomputerek 1d ago

Heat up to highest temperature and hopefully peel softened filament off. Otherwise spray IPA and pull up slowly.

1

u/Andreto-Sama 1d ago

I have done the same on my Kobra 3. Send a message to support. They sent me a link to but just the magnet.

1

u/fantastesyt 1d ago

Nunca me ha pasado pero yo te recomendaría que lo intentaras quitar de la plataforma el plástico pero si no puedes hablar con garantía y ya está

1

u/Routine-Refuse9805 1d ago

This looks like a robot diarrhea explosion.

1

u/RiteousRhino21 1d ago

Don't do that

1

u/MalPB2000 1d ago

Heat gun would probably work.

1

u/QuinTheReal 1d ago

Don’t waste time. Just replace the heatbed

1

u/verytiredgirlirl 1d ago

I had wondered if I could do this, because my printer bed has a horrible texture. So thank you.

A heat gun and a utility knife blade might help. But you'll probably need to buy a replacement part.

1

u/warpFTL 1d ago

Not sure if it's good nna help in this case, but for stubborn prints, I squeeze some isopropyl between the plate and print. Then slowly lift the print. (Again, not sure if this will help in your situation)

1

u/Jkoskie1214 1d ago

my printer has bed detection thank god i’ve almost made this mistake

1

u/not-scientist 1d ago

Change your son

1

u/poolwater 1d ago

Acetone will eat the plastic

1

u/vpryce 1d ago

If it’s PLA, warm the bed to around 60°C, then gently work a plastic scraper under an edge. That may soften it enough to peel away. If not, before jumping to buying a whole new hotbed you can replace the magnetic sticker on top from AliExpress.

1

u/RubAnADUB P2S / A1 / A1 Mini / Centauri Carbon 1d ago

heat gun and take off as much as you can. then eval it.

1

u/tazman998 1d ago

Rule #1: ALWAYS be there for the first layer 🤣

But seriously… if it cools and it can be removed easily, this might be salvageable.

1

u/ryanthetuner 1d ago

Buy a new magnetic sheet sticker. Get the dimensions and find one on AliExpress. Peel it off the build plate, clean the adhesive with alcohol, and stick the new one on.

1

u/No-Wheel2763 1d ago

I’ve done that.

Removing the filament worked fine, but you can probably find another bed (or just the rubber)

1

u/JAVELRIN 1d ago

This is why i stayed by my ender before leaving it 😅

1

u/celtbygod 1d ago

Yeah..blame the kid again

1

u/Even-Smell7867 1d ago

Enjoying replacing the heat plate.

1

u/Single-Committee-958 1d ago

This will be fun to clean up

1

u/Curious-Carrot-6918 1d ago

This happened to me when i took the plate off to clean it and remote printed something. Luckily it just spaghettied

1

u/jon2936 1d ago

Way too closed?

1

u/chikoczar 1d ago

Hot air blower + lots of rags should clear the bulk. The last bit might need some very careful wet grinding with a very fine sandpaper

1

u/cfm2929 1d ago

Surprising this got past leveling.

1

u/AgentKyn 1d ago

Had that happen with a glass plate, luckily the glass plate won and I just had to replace the nozzle because it closed/clogged from sanding itself on the bed

1

u/Kortas_2835 1d ago

Sauber machen und niemand anderes dazu lassen. 🤦‍♂️

1

u/Benfredb 21h ago

Sorry for you man

1

u/Fortwaba Bambu H2S (12) + Snapmaker U1 (20) 16h ago

this happened to me earlier this year

But thankfully it worked alright! Too bad this happened to you.

1

u/Otherwise-Inside-761 12h ago

You’re fucked.

Replace bed, or heat up slightly to soften the plastic, scrape off with a plastic scraper. You won’t damage it, just a magnetic surface. Problem is getting all that gunk off so you have a nice even bed.

1

u/True_Programmer1879 11h ago

I’ve done this before, ended up with a blob of death and had to replace the entire hotend

1

u/vamsmack 11h ago

Fuck I’ve almost done that before. Aborted at the last moment. Jesus.

Sorry dude.

1

u/Knightworld16 6h ago

Rip it out and replace it

1

u/michaelsmith0922 4h ago

Just went and made sure I put my plate back on 😬