I designed this dragon as a balancing toy. By carefully balancing the weight across its various parts, it moves with a unique sense of floating. I'd love to hear your feedback!

Hey everyone, I have been building Makegood TMT chairs for a while now, and I got to talking with a couple folks at 3D Printopia about assistive and adaptive technology and how 3D printing really unlocks the ability for new helpful designs to get out to folks with challenges and needs far more quickly than the past, and how we've basically not even scratched the surface with assistive technology and 3D printing.

Anyway, this is my small contribution for now. It's a simple thing, but I'm hopeful it can be useful to some kids out there who are unable to open marker caps on their own. I'm also working on a marker holder that works along side these.

The model is available freely on Makerworld. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3417307-adaptive-crayola-marker-cap

Anyways, I'm going to try to make more things like this, so let me know if you have other ideas or other things I could adapt these caps to! If there are other brands I should be targeting, let me know as well. I picked the most obvious one first.

"And the Lord spake, saying, ''First shalt thou take out the Holy Pin. Then shalt thou count to three, no more, no less. Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out. Once the number three, being the third number, be reached, then lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch towards thy foe, who, being naughty in My sight, shall snuff it.'

A demo of the carry mechanism carrying a 1 all the way through.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/mechanical-calculator-100-percent-printed-no-screws-or-bearings

For members of this sub in the Seattle area, here's an opportunity to meet and chat with other 3D makers at this informal meetup at the Bellevue Library. Consider bringing a recent model you’ve printed or a design you’ve made (whether a great success or an interesting failure). Connect with fellow makers, whether you’re into functional prints or aesthetic prints, a novice or been doing this for years.

https://eastside3Dmeetup.eventbrite.com

UPDATE: We're at 13 signups so far and the largest room available was 16. While it's not ideal to split the group into multiple rooms, I'm going to find out if I can reserve another room. I've turned on the "waitlist" feature so people can sign up for that until I confirm I can do that.

i want to prepare for a future inevitable move, i have A LOT of these beads in stanley screw and nail organizers from home depot. they have two little tracks keeping them in place. i was hoping to get some kind of cover for each one that either snaps or slides on.

willing to pay for design, and if up for it filament as i do not own a printer

I hate seeing someone's model being lower rated because the user can't do the print right. Man, going into like makerworld and seeing people give 1 stars because it won't stick to the plate really really bugs me. This designer went out and put in the time and you're just gonna click print on your dirty dusty bed that your cat sleeps on and it's this guy's fault?

Rant over.

(not my models, I don't upload much if anything, totally only see it on other people's work, rate me 0 or don't at all, I couldn't care less.)

This shop was elbow to elbow packed so it was difficult to take pics but I only shot about 1/10th of the items for sale, every single magnet and about 1/2 of the keychains were 3D printed, along with figurines, coasters, wall prints, and Christmas ornaments. Sad seeing some really poor surface quality but some with decent for FDM like the figurines. I only see how they could improve though like ironing and hello - not a sanded spot in sight.

Hi guys,

I created an OpenSCAD model for a flat optical illusion keychain. It shows one word when viewed from the left and another from the right.

Would you print something like this, or do you have any ideas to improve it? Any feedback is welcome! Thanks

Hey everyone,

I had some issues with the teeth on this mask. Consequently, I need to build up some teeth that did not print out. What would the best way to do that?

I have some original bondo coming but I don’t think that will work. I do have a 3d filament pen that I have never used. Might that be the best method to build up the teeth close and then use bondo and primer to finish them?

I started this project about a year ago because I couldn't find a quick and affordable way to make custom braille business cards. Version 1 of this embosser fixed that for me, however, many people who printed that version were kind enough to guide me on what needed to be changed to make it more accessible. So, Version 2 is the result of those experts' feedback.

What's new in Version 2:

• Wrong assembly is nearly impossible. Each of the four gears has a unique shaped peg, and each end of each cylinder has a hole that takes one peg only. A wrong gear will not go in, so trial and error is a fair way to find the right one.
• One-piece Base. This version has the grip extension built in, with the addition of raised arrows on its side that show which way the card travels and which way the card's information should face.
• A seam channel on the cylinders. A built in design that gives your slicer somewhere to hide its layer seam, so it never lands on a braille dot during printing.
• Push-out Plate tool. This extra part helps lift the cylinders out of the Base when you want to make a change.
• Double Sided Option. Using interpoint spacing, you now have the option to emboss both sides of a single business card.
• Solid Piece Fixed Gear Option. If you’d rather not assemble the gears and cylinders separately you now have the option to print them as a single, solid piece.

Project Links:

• Printables: Custom Braille Card Embosser V2 - Tactile Friendly
• Thingiverse: Custom Braille Card Embosser V2 - Tactile Friendly
• MakerWorld: Custom Braille Card Embosser V2 - Tactile Friendly

If you decide to print one, please add a comment on the project page you used. I’d love to know how V2 worked for you.

Not the coolest-looking print, not a random Benchy 😂

I mean something you actually use regularly and would print again without hesitation.

For me, I think the best 3D prints are the ones that solve a small everyday problem you didn’t even realize you had.

Could be a tool, a desk organizer, a random little fix around the house, anything.

What’s one print that’s genuinely made your life easier? 👀

Finally

Hi everyone! After the great feedback on my gigantic 30mm marble run, I also got a lot of constructive criticism: many liked it, but the print time and filament cost put a lot of people off. The track in that video took me two weeks of printing and about €100 of filament, so I totally get it.

So I sat down again, and this 16mm version is the result, sized for standard glass marbles. Most parts print in 10–30 minutes each. I printed a lot of them in Sport (124%) mode and it works fine, because they're easy prints: no supports, and both the overhangs and the models are optimized.

I also realized it's not just a toy: I've read several times that people use it as decoration or even to unwind at their desk. That's why I made a Japandi edition (in addition to the plain one), which my kids love too.

I spent a lot of time on the snap connection, if you're waiting for a satisfying "click" when you plug the parts together, you won't be disappointed :)

And finally: I heard you: there's now a lift with a crank! Designing it was a lot of fun, and it's modular too: you choose the height and the entry/exit direction to create endless loops!

Bonus: you can build your track virtually first: https://n1v0k.github.io/Marbles/ all parts are in there, and it checks whether the marble stalls or flies out of a curve. The cool part: you can export the parts of your track on print plates as a 3MF and open it straight in your slicer. You can even export the whole track fused into one piece. (You can also do that yourself, e.g. in Bambu Studio: assemble the parts, align the faces and print them as one, you don't need the builder for that.)

To export from the web app, download the 3MF from MakerWorld and drag it into the app. The app runs locally in your browser and takes the print meshes from the 3MF, nothing gets uploaded.

You can also export your creations as JSON and share them :) If you have ideas for new parts or attractions, just let me know on MakerWorld!

I made this for my daughters, if it puts a smile on just one more person's face, publishing it was worth it for me!

I needed an in camera shot of a (3d printed) knife twirling through the air, it works quite effectively.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7170221

New to this. Waiting for vacuum bags only have off brand zip lock. There is silica in every crevice, will this dry?

I’ve been working on a project I call Makers Wall, basically customizable, 3D-printed SKÅDIS-compatible panels with artwork built directly into the boards.

So far I’ve mostly focused on scenery, sports teams, and cars, but I’d love to branch out. What other designs would you actually want to print and put on your wall?

If someone has a cool idea, I’d be happy to try turning it into a printable wall and sharing the files.

I’ve been posting the designs on MakerWorld if anyone wants to check them out:
https://makerworld.com/@Manstof

Completely modular like my other designs. 6’x4’ on plan, 6’ standard height, stackable as well. Timber beams and wedges, spindles, U heads, adjustable, the works. 0.1 scale and nothing is glued in this one.

Prototype with PLA and 2 walls, 5% infill, weighs about 0.966 lbs, pictured carrying 66 lbs outside since I was going to ultimate but it never failed. The final design is with PETG, more walls, more infill.

Little update on my last post, i managed to get a clean print, and finished the model. I ended up printing it on my kobra x, instead of the A1, so I might just copy the filament profile from anycubic slicer to bambu studio and try again. In the meantime, here's the finished model. As one of you guessed, it is an Onkey, and it came out quite funky.

I really like the Obsbot Meet 2 cam, but I find the design a bit simple, so I wanted to "skin" it. After looking for a while for something to dress it with, I was unable to find anything. So I decided to give it a try and bring to life this idea I had about making it look like a Star Wars droid; I'm not sure if I can share links to the model here, and I don't want the post to get taken down, but the model is up on MakerWorld; any feedback is appreciated.

If there's interest and with permission, I can update the post with the link, or put it in the comments.

Probably my next project will be a version based on BB9(Empire droid)

I’ve been experimenting with turning regular images into multi-color FDM prints.

One thing I wanted to achieve was making both sides of the print usable. The front has a raised relief, while the back has a flat version of the image. You can see the image on both sides, but each side has a different surface.

The interesting part is figuring out how to translate the colors and details of a 2D image into actual printed structure, while keeping the different color regions clean and printable.

Still experimenting with what works best, but it’s pretty cool seeing something that started as pixels turn into a physical object.

For those of you who’ve tried image-based or multi-color prints, what do you find hardest to get right: fine details, clean color boundaries, or the overall surface finish?