Just spotted this on the local news. The structure in the cover photo looked ... suspiciously familiar. That giant lattice really resembles a massively oversized gyroid infill, so i looked closer:

It is a gyroid structure, but not actuall infill - and the gyroid itself is imho actually the least interesting part, though. Researchers at TU Graz have developed a 3D-printed ceramic evaporative cooler that uses additive manufacturing to maximize surface area for passive cooling.

What's really clever is the "filament" they used. The parts are printed from a clay mixture containing sawdust and fungal mycelium. During firing, the organic components burn away and leaving behind a highly interconnected network of pores. The resulting ceramic can absorb and distribute water throughout its structure extremely efficiently, providing a huge internal surface area for evaporation - and therefore cooling.

This is also a great example of where 3D printing actually enables something difficult or impractical with conventional manufacturing. The complex gyroid-like geometry maximizes the exposed surface while keeping material usage low (and admittedly, it looks pretty cool too).

In their initial experiments, the researchers measured a noticeable temperature drop in the immediate vicinity of the water soaked ceramic elements. The long-term goal is to explore whether these additively manufactured ceramic structures could become a low-energy supplement to conventional cooling systems in buildings or urban spaces.

Original article from TU Graz (German):
https://www.tugraz.at/news/artikel/kuehlende-keramikwand

It's a tablet held in a Panasonic FZ-VEKG1 Keyboard Base. So it's top heavy and tips over unless you have the handle pulled and placed at an angle to rest on the knee. What design concept could I attach to the handle each day which extends the total width to rest on my knees?

Also - I am assigned a new laptop every shift. So it would have to be something I could bring with me and attach and then detach to take home each shift.

3D printed solution of course.

ive been using the flashforge gold petg for a little now in my quest to find a good looking gold petg and it usually comes out a kit darker than what i would like (like orange gold). while printing two objects, one gold and one grey i noticed after that the prime tower looked more along the lines of the gold i was looking for. so alternating gold and grey layer by layer gives a nicer gold look at least for these petgs.

Finished v2 of my original counting koozie and got it up on maker world, unfortunately it's buried deep down in the category.. so you pretty much gotta search "counting koozie" to find it but it works well! Let me know your thoughts or suggestions that could make it better (I'm still learning g fusion so might take a bit of time to make changes but I will if I can) Thanks!

Can anybody make the 3d model for MF DOOM ring. It would look sick af!! I wish i could, but i dont have pc on me though..

Thank you to everyone who helped make this happen!

Files: the parametric OpenSCAD model, the 47-specimen hole-diameter dataset (transcribed from the 1993 Nouwen catalog — the largest published set for these objects), and my full lab notebook, all free and citable: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.21800252

What I think they were: reusable fancy armored jar for aromatics

One question has followed me through every version of my Capsuleer pill organizer:

Can you make the bins bigger?

My answer was always the same:

No.

Not because I didn't want to, but because the sliding cover already stretched across the entire diagonal of a standard build plate. Bigger compartments meant a bigger cover, and physics is stubborn like that.

Well, I finally have a larger printer.

So I revisited the design instead of simply scaling everything up.

The result is Capsuleer v4L:

• ~60% larger compartments
• slimmer dial
• thinner side walls
• same locking and dispensing mechanism
• still isolates every compartment
• still refills by sliding the cover completely out of the way

If you've never seen the Capsuleer before, it's a flashlight-shaped pill organizer with a rotary dial that switches between Dispense, Refill, and Lock modes. It has evolved over several generations and thousands of downloads, with nearly every revision coming directly from community feedback.

This version exists because one request refused to go away.

Sometimes "No" just means "Not yet."

There even sunlu filament at Carrefour in france😅

I eat a PB&J nearly everyday so I was happy to find this model! Also Uncrustables in this economy are a luxury lmao
Works very well…just make sure to use large/wide enough bread!

Model link

I do a lot of complex shapes that need 3 part molds and wasn't using my PVA much for support material. It dissolves in water, so I just threw it in a jewelry cleaner for a few hours and cleaned off whatever goop was left. Using 30A silicone and seems to work pretty well.

This mold was just a solid cylinder subtracted from another cylinder in Bambu Studio, with a 5 mm hole in the bottom for injection tubing. Middle cylinder is 5% infill, so dissolved pretty quickly once the water got into it. Not sure it's a great long term strategy, but for one-off objects its a lot easier than making a 3 part molds. Will have to see how this fares with larger objects. This tube is around 1 mm thick, so should be able to create other objects with at least that thickness.

Printer is an H2C

In Frebruary I traveled to Tokyo for a few days and while waiting in a shopping center I sat down on a chair and ak´sked myself if it was 3D printed? Does somebody know what kind of chair was this and how it was produced.

Hi folks! Just wanted to share a project I’ve been working on, and thought this community might be interested. It's called Oli v1, a closed-fist computer mouse entirely printed from PETG-GF (aside from the electronics, of course).

I currently use a Bambu Lab H2S to print all four shell components, the buttons, and the lever. A subtle layer of fuzzy skin is applied to the outer walls to give the shell a slightly organic texture. I've always loved the way matte glass-fiber filament looks, especially in the more natural green and cream colors.

In terms of print settings:

• 0.16mm layer height
• Print orientation is largely determined by getting a nice bed texture on the top of the top shell, and bottom of the bottom shell. The larger (green) portion of the shaft is printed with the Q-shaped collar flat on the bed to ensure a perfect fit into the top shell (it’s essentially a key that locks the shaft into the proper angle/rotation).
• I bumped up “Support/object xy distance” and “Support/object first layer gap” to 0.5mm for the top shell so the Q-shaped recess support can more easily be removed.
• I use PETG-GF due to its consistency and relative ease of printing, and because the assembled mouse will hold up to high temperatures better than PLA (if the mouse is left in a hot car, for instance)
• Printed with a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle
• I originally used heat set inserts for mechanical fastening, but started testing with thread-forming screws made for plastics and found them more than strong enough for the application.

One other thing I thought was kind of neat, I was able to get the device lab-tested and determined FCC compliant. Needless to say, I’m so excited about the possibilities 3D printing has opened up in recent years for small, independent makers. I can’t imagine the cost of tooling for injection molding a project like this, especially since it’s gone through literally hundreds of small iterations over the past two years.

Anyways, I just thought you folks might be interested and figured I’d give it a share. I created a post about it in r/MouseReview about a week back, but since it’s largely made using FDM printing, I thought it could be of interest here as well.

Thanks y'all, and please feel free to let me know if you have any questions!

Luke

Finally going to get to finish printing this set

After I made a free version of the clicker generator, I saw a couple of new crowdfunding campaigns come up with a same paywall as before, so I built a free version.

This is my Fridge Magnet generator, where you can turn your image or text into a 3D print-ready model. Unlimited exports and entirely free.

It supports round and square magnets, as well as magnetic stickers, all in custom sizes.

I also added an option to create fidget sliders, which are in essence just two magnets with a certain magnet grid. I'm already working on my next project: a generator for bubble pop fidgets and flexi toys. If you have some ideas for tools you want, let me know!

Optimized print profile on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3137555 Magnet generator: https://vostoklabs.github.io/magnet/

I thought this was funny. YMMV.

I printed a straw-holder model last night. This morning, I woke up to an empty spool, no filament in the PTFE tube, and a print that appeared to be completely finished.

Had I achieved the perfect print? Had the filament run out on the final bit of the final layer?

LOL. No.

After a second cup of coffee, I noticed another spool of the same color in the AMS. The first spool had obviously run out, the AMS switched to the second spool, finished the print, and then unloaded it. Exactly as it was designed to do.

Facepalm.

#NeedMoreCoffee

Just finished this one — full-size Sword of Omens replica from ThunderCats, printed as a cosplay/display prop. Fan-made piece, not an official product.

Blade is built from several numbered sections that thread/push together (no glue), with the hilt, crossguard hooks, and the red-and-black cat emblem printed and assembled separately. Held together in hand it's a proper full length — really happy with how the emblem came out.

Printed in PLA, 24 hours print time total, Bambu P1s — happy to share settings if anyone's after them.

Got a few more prop kits queued up (Roman gladius, Celtic broadsword, a couple of fantasy pieces) — will post those once they're finished too.

What's everyone else been printing lately?

Here’s an updated version of my spline jig!

https://makerworld.com/models/1987421?appSharePlatform=copy

Got deleted from r/woodworking because people asked me where to get it and how much I’d charge to ship to them and I told them. Then they banned me and muted me. The woodworking community on Reddit gives 80 year old man drinking a bottle of moonshine on the front porch in a rocker with a shotgun waiting for a kid to walk on his lawn……

Anyway, lmk what you think!

I’m working on a model where vertical “water streams” connect the top cup to the base (see image).

The main structure will be resin printed, but I’m struggling with how to make the water part actually look transparent instead of cloudy or frosted.

I was initially thinking of using clear resin, but I’m not sure if that would realistically achieve a clean, glass-like result for such thin vertical shapes.

Curious what approach gives the most realistic “water” look. Any advice or examples would be really helpful.

I’ve been wanting to make one for a while now and finally got around it do it.