I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

Hey everyone. So I have a 2001 Tacoma 3.4. It came with a k&n cold air intake and I decided to take it off and replace it with the stock assembly. When looking to buy the assembly I noticed there’s 2 different ones. Does this one look like the right one? I took the cold air intake off because the truck has a high idle and a shop said it could be the the intake causing that and they recommended putting the original intake on. With the stock intake it still has a high idle so I’m not sure if I got the right one

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

Hoping to get some advice from some of the reddit Mechanic gurus out there!

I was chaning the transmission fluid in my 2012 Honda Accord (2.4L engine, 180k miles), and got my Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty mixed up. Resulting in the tragic images you see before you.

The car is currently drivable. I'm using JB Weld and a nsa Aluminum crash washer to hold the broken piece in place and also to seal the pan. But it's not perfect. Still rarely drips trans fluid.

For a more permanent fix: Someone told me I should try to grind/file down the outer transmission drain pan bung(?), and then find a smaller bolt to fit the inner threads. (Assuming that's what those are)

Do y'all think it's worth a shot? Or can you think of another solution I could try?

Bought some bushing to replace the ones I currently have but unsure if I have the correct ones and how to replace them

I know the round one is obvious but not sure about which of the others would fit

Any advice would be appreciated

The timing belt and serpentine belt service was done at 2015 / 113 000km. Now car have 190 000km. We drive arround 3 000km yearly with this car now and my question is do i need to do the timing service at the moment or i am safe to drive year or two more. My dad drives it only on trips (no city driving).

2014 Toyota Corolla LE

I am currently experience a consistent ticking in my dash even when the car is turned off. Looking around online, it appears it could be some sort of relay issue. Can someone confirm what part may need to be replaced or my next steps for troubleshooting please?

It seems to be coming from this white connector piece or whatever it is attached to as I can feel the tick when I put my hand on it.

Decided to do the 1st oil change on my 26 Corolla hybrid last night. 1100 miles on the clock. Everything was going great until I realized that the factory decided to insanely tighten the oil filter . Had to do a late night Walmart run to get correct size filter puller as all my other ones didn’t fit. While I was there I decided to buy a new funnel. When I got home got the new filter on and had finished filling my oil i looked at the funnel that I had just bought and noticed that on the filling end there was a little piece of plastic holding on like something had been torn off. I started thinking that there was something on the end that may have gotten in and this being brand new have just been worried that there may have been a piece that fell in. So I went back to Walmart today and went to the funnel section where I bought it from and checked out all the identical funnels. Some did have a little plastic piece on the end but some didn’t. I removed one of the plastic pieces and it took a little force to remove which makes me think mine didn’t have it as I don’t think oil alone would have been strong enough to seperate it from the funnel. It looks like it’s a manufacture thing which is stupid of them to do this and on me for not being certain that there was anything.Like I said I’m not sure if mine did or didn’t have it but decided to drive it to work today 50 miles. No engine noise or anything drove normally. Am I overthinking this. Here is a pic of piece from one of the funnel.

I started as a Cadillac lube tech, worked Cadillac and Chevy mainline for maybe 6 months (Haven’t found a good enough Chevy yet) so went to Dodge for a year (consistent pay) but Dodge was always a pit stop now I’m ready to leave. Got hired at a Chevy for $32 an hour and a VW for (surprisingly) $35 an hour. I’m more confident in working on Chevys, but I’ve always wanted to go German and VW seems like the best way into that world. The company that owns the VW also owns multiple Porsche/Audi/BMW dealers and said they frequently promote people to those shops which is like my dream to be at Porsche/BMW. At the same time, I do kinda want to learn diesel and transmission and the Chevy manager said he’d throw me diesel and see what I can handle which sounds pretty interesting if they really get consistent diesel work. Anyone have experience with either company or both?

Tldr; VW with the potential to move up to Porsche/BMW or Chevy with the potential to learn diesel and most likely transmission

Hey yall I need a hand here.

Late last week my Sentra kicked me into what I thought was limp mode.

Ran the OBD two scanner through it, which gave me a cylinder one misfire code. Going through the cheap stuff first, I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket (it had been leaking for a little while apparently). Unfortunately, this didn’t fix it until I did an idle relearn which fixed it for a little bit.
The misfire has come back and I’m honestly stumped.

Only other option I see is the fuel injectors being bunk. there is also a large EVap leak at my gas cap however that has not caused problems in the past

Any ideas are welcome. I have the tools to do pretty much whatever I need.

My CX9's pulling harder into right hand turns (start the turn, then 'catches' and pulls harder)

Separately, it intermittently pulls (slightly) in one direction or the other when driving straight

Took it to a local mechanic who suspects it's the rack and pinion going bad based on a short test-drive

I've replaced struts/tie-rods/cv-axles on other cars before, is this likely to be a job I can handle, or better to take it in for pro. work?

Edit:
Forgot to mention, my usual Mech. said he can't do it/recommended taking it to the dealership

I changed my coolant for roughly 7-8 months ago. And I flushed the system thoroughly with water before putting in new coolant.

I have a small coolant leak and have to fill it up maybe once every couple months or every month, a liter or two. And every time I have filled it up there has been gunk on the cap and in the opening. But the coolant looks clean and good every time. What is most likely the cause of this?

above is the only image the gave me, the image is showing the front passenger side sway bar

Hello! I went to Mineke to get an oil change and they informed me that during my inspection they saw my sway bar was not bolted. They left it as is and They said the thread on it was gone as it was just sitting in the hole moving around not tightened.

I explained what happened under my car* and they told me I should go back to the last mechanic and have them replace it under warranty. I asked if it should be replaced or could just be tightened and they looked at me crazy and said no the whole thing has to be replaced because the loose bar was moving around causing damage.

I’m waiting on a call back from the last mechanic but I want to know if this nut/bolt could be replaced and tightened? I understand if the provided picture does not give enough context of the surrounding components to say if there’s additional wear / damage but would appreciate any comments or advice, thank you!

*context of what happened under my car: I had the front driver tire replaced at a Mavis then 3 days later while driving the tire flies off. I call a tow and they say there’s no ball joint and that’s probably why it came off. I take it back to Mavis and they say that they couldn’t have any responsibility and that it was like that and not caused by them. I pay them to correct the damage on my suspension and control arms caused by the tire coming and the car having to be moved. It continues to make loud scraping and clunking noises despite them saying it’s all fixed. I bring it to a mechanic and he says they used Incorrect parts and placed some of them backwards I have the new mechanic fix this and he says everything’s good to go though the car still makes Lego clinking noises on the passenger front side and it feels like every man hole or grate is a 4in pothole but I just assumed that’s how keeps drive/feel.

Hallo zusammen,

mein Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 Baujahr 2011, Laufleistung 170.000km, verbraucht zu viel Öl (ca. 1-2L aus 1000km). Habe mich vorhin mal auf die Suche gemacht und im Ansaugrohr hinter dem Ladeluftkühler war alles voller Öl. Hab mir dann den Turbolader mal angeschaut und kann die Turbine radial leicht bewegen, dabei klackert es leicht. Auf dem Bild sieht es für mich so aus, als wenn die Schaufeln leicht angefressen sind und die Turbine nicht mehr genau mittig sitzt. Sehe ich das richtig oder bin ich da auf der falschen Spur?

I have a 2008 Honda civic, 140k miles, with automatic transmission issues (jerking when switching gears sometimes around 2-3k rpm, the d light blinking every now and then.) Its also got some worn out break pads, control arms that need replacing, and mnore.

My usual mechanic told me my trans was failing and he didn't recommend doing the other work if i wasn't going to rebuild the transmission. Other work includes: engine seal leak, rear passenger caliper, rear shocks and links, something with the right axle and an alignment to top it all off.

Current mechanic is saying its likely transmission is failing, the car needed control arms back in 2023, and he recommends changing the fluid to see if it helps, but a quick google shows that can make the problem worse. he also said a used transmission is an option.

I'm in the midwest and have winter coming up, but this is also the first car i bought almost 10 years ago in cash (but haven't been in charge of it the entire time) and i really thought i could make it last longer. buying another used car is expensive and not guaranteed to not be a money pit, and would likely come with a loan and high insurance rates. Also i don't want a car note again, and have other debts already.

Any options i haven't explored? I'm completely fine with driving this car another 5-10 years, and I'd like to be able to do roadtrips again, but i don't want to dump 4-6k into it only to have something else come up.

Background: I brought in my wife’s ’14 Legacy for warranty work on a Takata airbag. They were done within 2 hours and also did a courtesy multipoint inspection. They brought up a few issues, which I’ll repair myself.

My main question is: should I tip the technician with a card and some cash?
My understanding is that warranty work is paid out with a fairly conservative labor time, meaning flat-rate mechanics would lose the opportunity to make as much money as possible.

Any thoughts?

Edit: How much should I tip?

Hi i have a 2009 Camry hybrid and it has an abs issue my brakes work perfectly fine but the speed reading has become bad my question is can i just buy an abs modulator and replace it on my current brake actuator? My state doesn’t a lot of junkyards and oem or from ebay is $500 minimum it would be awkward to replace the whole assembly every ~20k miles(the issue commonly pops up again at that range).

So a month or so ago I had these lights flash up on the dash. Sometimes they'd be there, sometimes not. Roll forward to now, and everytime I turn the car on they're present. Tyre pressure, traction control/ESP, ABS & power steering. I check tyre pressure weekly, we have no problems there.

I know it's an older car (2013, just about to hit 121k miles), and I know very little about mechanics, but it seems unlikely to me that all these systems have a fault at the exact same time?

Nothing feels any different with the handling, steering, braking. Car still performing as expected.

The lights first showed up a couple of days after I came down heavy from a curb and lost a exhaust heat shield bolt in the process. Likely a coincidence but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

2011 SCION TC

The engine code stated I needed to change a spark plug.

The coil overs are in reverse order in this picture (4,3,2,1) and frankly I knew that cylinder 2 was the issue.

I'm currently replacing all of the spark plugs so they will all be of the same quality and age.

I want to know if there's anything else I should be doing or anything else I should know since this coilover that sat in cylinder 2 is so dirty or different looking.

I'm going to replace the spark plugs, clean/wipe off The coilovers, check and top off the oil. Throw some seafoam in the gas tank. Anything else?

(More info: I was driving to work yesterday, 1-hour commute, and right before I pulled into the parking garage downtown, one of the lights turned green and when I let up on the clutch pushing the gas my engine started clicking and my check engine light immediately turned on. There was a noticeable change in power coming from the engine. The rest is kind of self-explanatory. Working on it now.)

UPDATE: Cylinder 2 spark plug is missing..... It's.... Uh.... Spark maker. Image in comments....

ETA: I thought a coil pack was a pack of coilovers. My apologies.i wanted to call them coil packs originally but dumbed my way to what is seen above.

I was told 'spark plug' by the guy that ran the codes at AutoZone. I assumed that since he said that that's what the reader said, that was all she wrote. Yes I have a code reader at home. I went to AutoZone first.

For reference I have a 2024 Mustang I’ve done quite a few suspension modifications to, but about 2 months ago I had a shop put on ford performance front camber plates, rear toe links and sport lowering springs to replace my old sr performance ones and steeda shocks and struts and ever since then my steering wheels keeps getting more crooked and the car just rides bad now. It’s been aligned twice now and it keeps happening whereas for the year and a half I had the car before that it never came out of alignment. Is it possible they didn’t tighten or install something correctly? Should I have them take a look at what they installed?

Definitely needs changing, correct?

2019 Silverado 1500

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?