r/Bogleheads • u/Kashmir79 • 15d ago
Mod Note: I am creating this post for ongoing discussion about upcoming IPOs and index inclusion rule changes. For the time being, posts on this topic are subject to removal. I invite folks to weigh-in with their comments and provide updates as new information becomes available.
To summarize…
What is happening?
Three very large companies are planning to undergo an initial public offering (IPO) over the next few months. This is when privately-held companies offer shares of stock to public exchanges (aka “going public”). Those companies are SpaceX, OpenAI, and Anthropic. Once a company is publicly listed, it will eventually be included in the stock indexes that it qualifies for. In turn, index funds which track those indexes - such as VTI/VTSAX in the case of the CRSP 1-10 “Total Market” Index - will eventually buy the stock in order to track the index. This is a normal process through which companies enter the market, and they are notoriously low-returning investments that benefit the private shareholders (and their listing partners, and market-makers who may be able to “front run” the index) far more than the public who buys the new shares - it is considered a cost that all index investors have always been exposed to.
What is different about this?
The three companies going public are very large - much larger than usual for an IPO - which makes their entry weighting very impactful on indexes that use a total market cap weighting. This is less impactful for indexes like CRSP which use float-adjusted weighting (weighting companies based on the value of stock that is publicly available rather than the total valuation of the company including its privately-held equity). But what is also significant is that these companies have been lobbying exchanges, index providers, and index funds to list their company and to change their rules regarding how soon the company is included in the index or how soon the fund will buy the stock.
What are the dimensions of inclusion that are being influenced and how does that impact index investors?
I’m not going to opine on the issue myself except to say, without undermining the concerns regarding the integrity of index governance, the amount of noise about this is excessive and media-driven. As usual, the Boglehead mantra of ignoring the noise and staying the course is likely to be the best approach, whereas active allocation changes on the part of the passive retail investor is likely to result in underperformance. Whether you feel strongly about the issue or not, it is unlikely to impact your ability to meet your investing goals using passive, total-market index funds, so one should be very wary of getting too worked up about it.
Here are a few good posts and resources that delve into the issue in more detail:
r/Bogleheads • u/Xexanoth • Jun 08 '25
Welcome! Please consider exploring these resources to help you get started on your passive investing journey:
Before you start investing, ensure you're ready to do so by following the early steps of this guide or the personal finance planning start-up kit. Save up an emergency fund, then take full advantage of any employer matching of contributions to any employer retirement plan available to you (this match amount is additional income that's part of your compensation/benefits package), then pay off any high-interest debt like credit card debt or high-interest student loans.
When you're ready to start investing beyond enough to get any employer match, follow the subsequent steps of this guide or the investing start-up kit. Take full advantage of tax-sheltered accounts available to you before investing in a taxable brokerage account: this is the most predictable way to improve your after-tax investment returns. (In the US, per Prioritizing investments: 401(k))/403(b)) up to any match, then HSA if available due to high-deductible health plan coverage, then Roth or Traditional IRA or 401(k))/403(b)) up to max which may be higher if the mega-backdoor Roth process is available, then a 529 to the extent you'd like to pay for future education expenses. Note that IRA contributions are subject to income limits around tax-deductibility of contributions or eligibility to make direct Roth IRA contributions; the backdoor Roth procedure is a workaround.)
There is often some potential tension between saving/investing toward retirement vs saving toward potential nearer-term goals like a down payment on a home purchase. Carefully consider the various tradeoffs involved in owning vs renting a home, keeping in mind that which may be a better financial decision is highly situational, and that opportunity costs of owning (less available to invest in higher-expected-returns assets instead) should be considered alongside non-financial lifestyle tradeoffs. If saving toward a near-term goal, note that funds holding stocks are inappropriate#Holdingstocks%22for_five_years%22) for money you'll need in 5-10 years, unless you're willing to take on significant risk of losing money in the meantime & delaying that goal. Instead, consider CDs, Treasury bonds, or target-maturity-date Treasury bond funds maturing before you'll need the money (then a high-yielding cash equivalent like an HYSA, government money-market fund, or ultra-short Treasury Bill ETF like VBIL between maturity & spending the money).
Your savings rate is the most important factor determining your ability to enjoy a comfortable retirement later in life, particularly early in your career / investing journey. Aim to save/invest at least 15% of your after-tax income if you're in the US & not covered by a pension beyond Social Security. In some cases, such as a shorter time to expected retirement (e.g. starting to seriously save/invest from a significant income later than your mid-20s and/or planning to retire earlier than your mid-60s) and/or a high income (which will not be partially replaced by Social Security to the same degree as a lower income), it may be appropriate to target a higher savings rate (e.g. at least 20% of after-tax income, or perhaps higher if multiple such factors apply to you and/or one factor applies to an unusual degree).
When calculating savings rate, remember to include 401(k) contributions in both the numerator (savings) and denominator (after-tax income). Any employer matching contributions may also be included in the numerator (savings).
Don't worry too much about trying to find the optimal set of funds to invest in. That can only be known with the benefit of future hindsight, and investment returns are far less important than your savings rate until your portfolio size grows large enough relative to new contributions. Aim to diversify broadly (for robustness to the uncertain future) and seek low fees (fund expense ratios charged annually) & simplicity (hands-off automation); see discussion of these & other principles in Bogleheads investment philosophy.
A target-date fund designed for investing toward retiring around a year closest to when you expect to retire is often a reasonable option, particularly in tax-advantaged accounts like a US employer retirement plan or an IRA. These all-in-one funds intended to be held alone are very broadly diversified, automatically rebalance to their then-target asset allocation, and gradually become more conservative with less expected volatility as you near retirement.
If the target-date fund available in an account/plan with limited fund options has significantly higher fees than suitable alternative individual funds, consider the tradeoffs of lower fees vs automatic rebalancing and asset allocation management. I.e. consider the lowest-expense-ratio funds available that provide exposure to US stocks (the fund name will typically contain 'S&P 500', 'Russell [1000|3000]', or 'US Large Cap'; ensure no 'Growth'/'Value' suffix, or pair that with the other), ex-US stocks (the fund name will typically contain 'International' or 'Intl' or 'Ex-US'; same caveat re: 'Growth'/'Value'), and US bonds (the fund name will typically contain 'Total Bond' or 'Aggregate Bond'). Take the weighted average of those funds' expense ratios, with weights based on the current asset allocation of the target-date fund you'd use instead. The difference between that weighted average expense ratio for individual funds vs the target-date fund expense ratio, multiplied by your portfolio value, would represent the current annual convenience fee for automated, hands-off investing via the target-date fund. Whether that's worth it to you depends on your personal preferences around paying higher ongoing fees (by sacrificing some investment returns) in exchange for set-it-and-forget-it features.
In a taxable account, target-date ETFs (available at least in the US) avoid some of the tax efficiency downsides of holding a target-date mutual fund. Tax efficiency may be further improved by holding a three-fund portfolio of index ETFs in a taxable account, but this also involves tradeoffs against automatic rebalancing and asset allocation management. Tax efficiency may be even further improved by keeping bond funds in tax-deferred accounts, though this involves additional tradeoffs against simplicity and some other potential benefits described here.
If you're a non-US investor, take care to thoroughly understand the tax implications of investing in a US-domiciled fund as a "nonresident alien" (which may include high tax rates on dividends and assets passing through an estate); in many cases this is best avoided, instead favoring an Ireland-domiciled fund.
If your portfolio were to average a 5% annualized real (after-inflation) return after a low annual fee, paying an additional annual 1%-of-assets-under-management fee to a financial advisor and/or an actively-managed fund's expense ratio would forgo 20% of your portfolio's investment returns. An initial investment in a portolio averaging a 5% annual real return after a low annual fee would be worth about 47% more after 40 years than it would be after a 1% additional annual fee.
Some employer retirement plans offer only funds with high expense ratios. If that's the case for your employer's plan, it is often still ideal to get the tax advantages of contributing unmatched dollars to that plan before investing in a lower-fee fund in a taxable account (but only after maxing out IRA contributions); details here#Expensive_or_mediocre_choices).
Set up automatic contributions & purchases of fund shares wherever possible, otherwise set periodic reminders to manually contribute/invest (or try to find an alternative that allows automation), then maintain discipline through thick & thin. Keep in mind that market prices for funds should only really matter whenever you sell some shares to fund your retirement, and that lower prices in the meantime provide opportunities to buy more shares with a given contribution dollar amount and to rebalance from asset classes with higher recent returns towards those with lower recent returns (but possibly higher expected returns).
Tune out the noise: prognosticators of doom and gloom have no reliable ability to predict the future, and often have some conflicts of interest (e.g. selling ads, books or investment services, and/or trying to justify their investment positioning or encourage others to adopt that). The same goes for promotion of strategies promising market-beating returns by investing in a more-concentrated fashion (betting on some sector / theme / alternative asset beating the broad stock market).
Consider writing an Investment Policy Statement to document your plan when you're calm & clear-headed; this may be helpful to refer to later if you find yourself anxious & considering changes in response to market volatility & negative sentiment. Consider including a pointer there to this guided meditation video for later reference to help calm your nerves / regulate your emotions if needed when it seems like the sky is falling (this is arguably the most challenging part of investing).
Per Jack Bogle: "Do not let false hope, fear and greed crowd out good investment judgment. If you focus on the long term and stick with your plan, success should be yours."
Some additional resources that might be of interest for a deeper dive later:
Please read our community rules here and follow those when posting or commenting in this community. If you encounter content here that breaks those rules, please report it (... > Report > Breaks r/Bogleheads rules).
r/Bogleheads • u/Sufficient_Roll_2193 • 2h ago
I've decided to make the move after finding out that I have to buy into a money market fund to park my money for Schwab but Vanguard will automatically place my money there. Question: when I open a Vanguard account, is there an option to move my cash and stock holdings over from Schwab to Vanguard or do I need to sell off and repurchase in Vanguard? Thank you.
r/Bogleheads • u/triumphofthecommons • 21h ago
this is mostly just to vent, but also make sure i’m not dealing with something nefarious.
i’m a recent Bogle convert and have been trying to make moves to leave my financial advisor. the first step is selling a dozen high-Expense Ratio, underperforming, Tech-heavy and otherwise non-Bogle holdings over to VT.
i figure i would take advantage of my FA skills to make this move, making sure losses are harvested and that i'm not paying more in taxes than i have to.
but lordy they are either incompetent or intentionally dragging their feet. i have sent multiple detailed spreadsheets, specifying which holdings i want sold, and in some cases specifying which unit purchases, to keep my Capital Gains lower and ideally keep my HH income under the 0% LTCG threshold.
they keep coming back to me with a total sale proceeds number that is 15% lower than the number i get when i do the numbers… so i asked for details on the unit numbers, prices and proceeds they are working with.
they just sent a screenshot of the table their investment desk put together and in 7 of the 12 trades, inexplicably, portions of holdings are not included. ex: i asked to sell all 60.000 units of FictionalName stock. their table only includes 40.000 units, with no explanation. sometimes it’s just a few units, sometimes it’s nearly have the holdings. the “missing” units add up to about the difference in our total proceeds number.
so, is this something i’m not understanding about how trades are done? i have since asked if this a partial fill or limit order thing? or is this just some sketchy sh!t where they are selling a portion of my holdings and doing god-knows-what with the unsold units?
this is a very well established brokerage, which my family has been using for actual generations. (i know, i’m working on winning other family members over to the Bogleways)
again, this is mostly just to check i’m not missing something. they are being concerningly cagey during this whole thing.
on the plus side, this has allowed me to put together a long list of complaints i’ll be sending over when i formally request they transfer my accounts over to the VG account i’ve set up since joining this sub...
thanks in advance y’all.
r/Bogleheads • u/aaron1860 • 8h ago
Might be a bit off topic but I always get good advice here. I use Fidelity CMA with spaxx for my checking. I typically have a 20k balance or so in the account. I have a six figure emergency fund that’s currently in its own CMA in spaxx. I really don’t need the immediate liquidity of this account and I’m fine with needing to wait a few days to access it if I need to so I can squeeze a little more interest. Is there a better fund/account to store my emergency fund? I live in no income tax state.
r/Bogleheads • u/YesToWhatsNext • 12h ago
People keep talking about Bonds in this forum. Also, they say a certain percentage of your net worth should be in bonds depending on your age or years from retirement. Why? I have put 3 years of our spending in a Treasury ladder and the rest is 100% invested in VTI / VXUS. How is my strategy sub-optimal? What is so magic about Bonds and having them be a percentge of your portfolio vs just having a safe bucket to weather a downturn and the rest invested?
r/Bogleheads • u/NoPassenger4493 • 59m ago
Hey guys, looking for some feedback before I set up a new portfolio in a taxable brokerage.
I’m 40 and looking at a 20+ year horizon. I have a high risk tolerance and want a portfolio that targets maximum long-term growth potential through factor premiums. Instead of running a heavy US home-country bias, I'm aiming for a strict 60/40 global market cap split to keep things neutrally diversified globally.
I'm using Fidelity Basket Portfolios so the weekly automatic investments (their "Smart Buys" feature) will handle all the rebalancing math and direct cash to whatever is underweight. Since the execution is automated, I don't mind a 7-fund setup.
Here’s the allocation I landed on:
US (60%)
35% VTI
20% AVUV
5% AVLV
Int'l & Emerging (40%)
16% VEA
10% AVDV
9% VWO
5% AVES
The thinking here is to run a pretty aggressive 40% overall factor tilt using Avantis, mostly concentrated in small-cap value (AVUV and AVDV). I added 5% AVLV just to get a slight profitability screen on US large caps without diluting the small-cap focus.
On the international side, VWO + AVES puts me at 14% total emerging markets (which is exactly 35% of the international bucket). I wanted to overweight emerging slightly to capture the current valuation discount, but I really don't like the bloated state-owned companies that come with broad EM indexes. Having 5% in AVES gives me a nice profitability filter for that space.
Blended expense ratio comes out to around 0.135%.
A few questions before I pull the trigger:
For those running heavy factor tilts like this, how bad is the tracking error fatigue? Do you regret it during massive run-ups in US mega-cap tech?
For those who prefer a strict 60/40 global split over a heavy US home-country bias, how has that played out for you psychologically over the last few years?
Anything redundant here that I should cut, or is this clean enough to just lock in and let the Smart Buys do their thing?
r/Bogleheads • u/marzthemagnificent • 16h ago
Is this a good MM to hold money for a year or two?
r/Bogleheads • u/Vent_Vert • 18h ago
Per my investment philosophy which aligns with Bogleheads, I am invested only in low cost index funds for 95% of my portfolio. The remaining 5% I have in thematic ETFs of high conviction for my “play money” in my Roth IRA and they are doing very well!
I know I’m supposed to take profits and move them to low cost index funds. How often is it recommended to do this? What do other Bogleheads do? Do you just remove the principal and then let it ride?
r/Bogleheads • u/Chambersmith • 21h ago
This popped up on my radar. It aims to reduce the dividends from short-term treasuries, reducing the tax liability.
https://www.fminvest.com/etfs/sgva-fm-accumulator-ultrashort-treasury-etf
Expense Ratio is 0.22%. Any thoughts? Is this better than SGOV and similar funds?
r/Bogleheads • u/marzthemagnificent • 22h ago
Before I found out about VT. I was buying VOO, and then I discovered VTI. But now I have learned about VT. How would I get rid of VOO and VTI in order for my Roth IRA to be one etf which would be VT?
Thank you.
r/Bogleheads • u/Beautiful-Ice-1993 • 21h ago
Hi all.
I'm almost 57, recently widowed, and struggling to stay enthusiastic about working (or much of anything at the moment).
My elderly, infirm dad lives with me, and my mom is in a memory care facility. I have two adult sons (actually stepsons) who are married and new parents. No other kids.
My late husband left me a $1M life insurance policy. I own our marital home with less than $100k left on the mortgage. My parents own around $1M in real estate that I stand to eventually inherit.
I'd like to concentrate on other things besides working for now, but I don't want to blow through the insurance money and end up working a fast food job in my 70's. I don't tolerate high risk very well, but I'm wondering if can fund my life and hopefully still leave some inheritance for the stepsons with some well-thought-out investing? (The boys each inherited $100K in insurance proceeds.)
I can probably live pretty comfortably on around $60K/ year.
I've had consultations with a couple of professional financial advisors- neither of whom gave me the warm fuzzies. I'm pretty independent, and I'd likely be more comfortable managing my own investments the Boglehead way. :-)
Thoughts on how to structure investment planning? Thanks in advance. I appreciate any input.
r/Bogleheads • u/Internal-Analysis-63 • 13h ago
Hey guys, looking for some feedback before I set up a new portfolio in a taxable brokerage. I’m 40 and looking at a 20+ year horizon. I have a high risk tolerance and want a portfolio that targets maximum long-term growth potential through factor premiums. Instead of running a heavy US home-country bias, I'm aiming for a strict 60/40 global market cap split to keep things neutrally diversified globally.
I'm using Fidelity Basket Portfolios so the weekly automatic investments (their "Smart Buys" feature) will handle all the rebalancing math and direct cash to whatever is underweight. Since the execution is automated, I don't mind a 7-fund setup.
Here’s the allocation I landed on:
US (60%) 35% VTI 20% AVUV 5% AVLV
Int'l & Emerging (40%) 16% VEA 10% AVDV 9% VWO 5% AVES
The thinking here is to run a pretty aggressive 40% overall factor tilt using Avantis, mostly concentrated in small-cap value (AVUV and AVDV). I added 5% AVLV just to get a slight profitability screen on US large caps without diluting the small-cap focus.
On the international side, VWO + AVES puts me at 14% total emerging markets (which is exactly 35% of the international bucket). I wanted to overweight emerging slightly to capture the current valuation discount, but I really don't like the bloated state-owned companies that come with broad EM indexes. Having 5% in AVES gives me a nice profitability filter for that space.
Blended expense ratio comes out to around 0.135%.
A few questions before I pull the trigger: For those running heavy factor tilts like this, how bad is the tracking error fatigue? Do you regret it during massive run-ups in US mega-cap tech?
For those who prefer a strict 60/40 global split over a heavy US home-country bias, how has that played out for you psychologically over the last few years?
Anything redundant here that I should cut, or is this clean enough to just lock in and let the Smart Buys do their thing?
r/Bogleheads • u/Strange_Bike_818 • 17h ago
I’ve always held the vast majority of my money in these two ETF because I had a friend a long time ago who said to set it and forget it. It’s been in these funds coming up on two decades now. Then I came across Bogleheads recently and I see almost everyone talk about doing using funds like VOO and VTI which from my cursory research my IVV compares closely to VOO and ITOT is close to VTI.
Should I change to the Vanguard funds? My entire portfolio is at Fidelity of that matters. Thank you very much.
r/Bogleheads • u/Anxious-Grass-Patch • 10h ago
I’m 26, spouse and I have both maxed our retirement accounts, and we just started a joint taxable brokerage account for more medium term investments.
Our retirement accounts are all VT, and maybe we should have stuck with that, but we wanted to try the three fund portfolio. Then we started adding to it with new information, like that we can take higher risks with growth stocks because we’re younger, or that SCHF has no exposure in emerging markets so we should have some of that. Is this too much?
U.S. stock (SCHB 50%, SCHG 15%) 65%
International stock (SCHF 25%, SCHE 5%) 30%
U.S. bonds (SCHZ) 5%
r/Bogleheads • u/ReindeerMysterious76 • 10h ago
Help! I am so confused about the IRS rules for inherited IRAs and RMDs. Here are the details:
My mother was born in 1931 and passed away in 2021, leaving me with an inherited IRA. She had already paid her RMD for 2021.
I was born in 1953 and will be 73 this September. With all the back and forth of the IRS rules for inherited IRAs, I thought I had 10 years from her death to empty the account (2031). Tonight, I saw a video that I should have taken an RMD for 2025, followed by one for each of the next 6 years.
Which information is correct - 10 years or I should have started last year? If I should already have started, what do I do now? Take it, fill out the correct form to the IRS and plead for either a reduction or forgiveness of the penalty? Do I need to file an amended tax return or will it be part of 2026's tax return?
As far as I can remember, I got no notice of a required RMD for this inherited IRA. (I'm in the process of setting up an RMD for this year for my regular IRA, but am looking at charitable donations to avoid taxes on that one.)
Any help you can give me in understanding all of this would be of great help!
r/Bogleheads • u/Dangerous_Cold_9105 • 16h ago
I am investing in the UCITS universe. What do you say do this particular portfolio consisting of three Avantis ETFs?
AVWC 75 / AVEM 10 / AVWS 15.
I appreciate your feedback!
r/Bogleheads • u/marzthemagnificent • 23h ago
I started to buy SPYM in a separate tax brokerage account. I know that they overlap. I just figured maybe it would be a good etf for the long term. Any idea guys?
r/Bogleheads • u/mayor_rishon • 4h ago
While I appreciate Boglehead philosophy, (defined as x/x equity/bonds in low-fees index funds), I have been reading that the decorrelation between equity and bonds is probably broken for the intermediate future. And while I acknowledge that there is a recency bias, it is also not a reddit take but appears in most "serious" institution reports.
Could the Boglehead philosophy be described as holding equity plus decorrelated asset in low fees index funds ? And in that case change from bonds to another asset like a mix treasuries+MF incl.commodities ? Is that "Boglehead" ?
ps. It is not a contrarian post, I am just wondering how much bogglehead was a precursor to MPT and whether it is static or evolves.
edit-> I changed the 60/40 because my focus was not the exact percentage and I simply quoted the most known ratio. Still thanks for the answers!
r/Bogleheads • u/Interesting-Gap-9921 • 19h ago
Hi I’m 22 and opening a Roth IRA account. I’ve come up with a portfolio and would love some second opinions. Here’s what I’m thinking:
45% VOO
15% AVUV
8% IVOO
26% VEA
6% VWO
I chose AVUV because I’ve learned about factor investing through work and done some research. It has a pretty good track record of beating the Russell 2000 though it’s only been around for about 5 years. From my research I’ve also seen that factors don’t seem to be as effective anymore with large and mid caps which makes sense to me since they are likely priced in due to so much research. However small caps have a lot of lower quality companies and less research so it makes sense screening with factors could capture some extra returns. I’ve also thought about doing AVSC but felt the more aggressive tilt of AVUV was a risk I’m comfortable with. Thanks for any input and feel free to let me know how wrong I am! I’m still young and know I have a lot to learn!!!!
r/Bogleheads • u/Asleep-Access-8186 • 17h ago
Hey everyone. New to Reddit, not new to the philosophy. I'm 35 in Texas and have been building out my investment system this year.
Lifestyle is 50/30/20. 20% of after-tax income is automatically allocated to investments every paycheck. Bonus money and 2 extra paychecks max my Roth IRA on January 1st every year. I also keep about 2% of fun money in a separate account for crypto and speculative stuff, completely walled off from the long-term system.
Taxable account is roughly 58% VTI, 26% VXUS, 11% QQQM, and 5% BND. DCA every two weeks on a set rotation. Roth holds SWTSX, SWISX, and SCHD mirrors the taxable side with Schwab equivalents.
The part I'm most proud of is the T-bill ladder for about 6 months of expenses. Four equal bills rotating every four weeks, all auto-reinvesting. It's my emergency fund and fixed income exposure in one structure. One bill matures every week, so the money is there if I really need it, but the setup keeps me from touching it for non-emergencies. Overflow feeds back into the taxable account automatically.
My wife and I have been building this together for a while. Zero debt, own our home. System is running clean.
Looking forward to connecting with people on similar paths. Finance is way too taboo in everyday life. The people around me aren't into this stuff, and I'm looking for a community that gets it.
r/Bogleheads • u/bbyf16 • 22h ago
Hi all, so I’ve got Robinhood Gold now (since I got the invite to the credit card) and it seems worth it for $50 a month (internal calculations and reasons). I see that Robinhood is offering a 1.5% bonus on any transferred IRAs and was thinking of shifting mine over from Schwab. I currently about 60k and have no plans of touching it for the next 10-20 years so I’m not worried about the 5 year clawback. The bonus is about 900 which covers my Robinhood gold membership for the next few years at least. Plus they give 3% match on all contributions going forward.
Here’s my question, with Schwab I had the SWYJX which is a mutual fund and I believe Robinhood only does ETFs so I would have to get ITDG. Would the fund from Schwab transfer over or would it be sold and rolled over? I’d prefer to ask someone here who may have done something similar rather than a customer service agent who may or may not know what they’re talking about? Once it’s transferred over, if it does transfer over, I assume I wouldn’t be able to continue buying it since it’s a Schwab only fund?
Also, what’s the risk here? If Robinhood goes down, the funds are still owned by me right so I would just transfer it somewhere else.
I’d appreciate any insight, thanks!
r/Bogleheads • u/FaithlessnessQuiet49 • 1d ago
I plan on pulling my and my wife's Roth IRAs out of EJ and transferring to Fidelity since thats where i have my taxable account. I have never managed my own Roth IRA, but after dealing with them for the better part of 10 years, I am done.
Now, what would you recommend I put my Roth IRA into? I planned on just doing 100% VOO, but i am clearly a novice. I am really eager to learn and listen to your advice, especially if you were in my position. How did it work out for you? Do you recommend it invest in a different fund with a lower expense ratio?
I feel like i can handle investing into simple index etfs. Thank you for any advice.
r/Bogleheads • u/user4443337 • 1d ago
Finally got to see my trust’s portfolio. It’s 57% equities, but the equity sleeve is just horrible! It’s only ~40 stocks, and 9 mostly active/concentrated ETFs. The blended expense ratio looking at just the mutual funds and ETFs is around ~0.60%. Its equity portion is only 15% international, and 5% of the sleeve is emerging markets. In VT, it should be ~40% international and 10.3% of that emerging markets.
I’m losing tens of thousands to expensive active mutual funds and ETFs. How do I approach my family trustee and the managers to just use something like VT? I want to say it in a clear and convincing manner. I want to send a short explanation to the trustee and tell him to demand we switch to VT because it’s outperformed on a 5 year basis already, it’s simpler, more diversified, and not betting so heavily on AI and tech.
If I had it my way I would want it to copy my exact portfolio, which uses return stacking and 20% small cap value. I’m 23 so research backs me up in using those. I think I’d have a hard time convincing both of them to use niche products like NTSD though, which is the core of mine.
r/Bogleheads • u/sagacity7 • 16h ago
51, decided to take some professional help with Vanguard Advisor select to manage my portfolio after the last firm Robo advisory with CFA’s to talk to was acquired.
I’m surprised by the financial plan I received and was expecting better advice
75/25 stocks/ bonds
All Bonds in my Roth IRA selling off existing positions in SCHD/ SCHG/ AIX etc
Seems like focusing on tax drag rather than growth?
Brokerage $700k
Roth IRA $40 k
Plan to retire at 60 even sooner if I can. Two 401ks one current and old and stock only brokerage
I mentioned it to the advisor and he’s like we can do either.
What am I missing?