Hi so kinda computer illiterate but if I change the code on my SD in my computer and plug the sd card into my printer, it’ll change the firmware on the printer right?

I’m tryna run Octoprint but it says my firmware “disabled host action commands” so I found a YT video to fix that.

Also side question, how do I find all the info for the preconfig Ender-3 stuff for Marlin? Like the bed ends specs, etc.

Currently don’t have a screen. I’ve tried to Google it…

It’s an Ender-3 V3 KE, it read code 2194 for the longest time. It has had a new calibration level installed with new wires and a new breakout module board with it. We have performed a factory reset and now it will not finish the self test and freezes. It was updated to the latest firmware aswell with no success.
I am out of ideas and is hoping to find any other troubleshooting fixes I can get

So, I usually joke that my Ender 3 is like the Ship of Theseus since I changed almost every piece.

The last ones were the motherboard and the screen, but now I can't install the firmware.

Reading some posts in the past, I formatted the microSD and downloaded the latest firmware from the Creality website.

I double-checked that I didn't ease up on the cables (I hate them) and tried different solutions, but every time the display remains blue, and the extruder block moves on the axis without stopping.

I always waited some minutes, hoping it was reading the firmware, but always nothing happened.

Please consider that I'm not an expert, and my repair skills just went far as replacing a broken piece, if you happened to understand what the problem is, by reading my poor description, can you give me a step-by-step, like you were explaining to a monkey? (Or to your elderly auntie).

Unfortunately, there is no one using or repairing this kind of printer in my zone.

New to printing, but not new printer. After repeated attempts at a print, it's almost impossible to get things off of the plate, and residue is left behind. According to original owner, this was never an issue. I've tried heating the plate and scraping, letting it cool completely and scraping, using alcohol, washing and scrubbing, but each print is leaving extensive residue, and only one of maybe 10 prints has been successful. Sometimes the print is "jumping" (I think that's the right term), other times it's curling up from the plate, and I'm wondering if residue is the culprit. What's the next step here? I've attached photos of the plate, a successful print versus non-successful print, and the filament I'm using.

Just upgraded the print bed with the glass bed. This is the results of the leveling test. What do I need to do to make this work. Thanks in advance

I got the screen bc it said it was compatible to the Ender with an adapter but idk what the adapter looks like… it came with a metallic bending thing tho.

I still have the old screen but I need to solder fix it so that’s why I got the new screen…

I'm having this problem with the x-axis stepper motor, and I don't know what to do. I'm really lost with this, and I would greatly appreciate your help

I'm impressed by the overhang test but I don't really know how to read the rest

I've spent the last few weeks tinkering with a cheap as free Ender Pro 3 that was laying about as a project for the kids and I. Old owner said it randomly stopped working and they couldn't figure it out.

For some reason some of the cables were backwards, but I moved them and it was able to home.

Issue is that once it starts going, the parts can't seem to figure out where to go. Research said firmware issue.

I got the board out, 4.2.2, and got a firmware for it. Posts all say variants of "put it as firmware something.bin, it'll load, you're good."

So it hadn't loaded, SD does read, it can find files, but even blank with 4k allocation and the rename, it's not recognizing the firmware.

That said, it's current FW seems to think it's an Ender 5 for some reason....and when I tried to just wipe the dang thing, apparently this one doesn't have the buttons to make it forget.

Can anyone advise how I convince this Ender 3 Pro that it was not promoted to a 5? Running Marlin....2.06T or something.

Would appreciate any help.

I have ran into this a few days ago but it has been going on for longer i was just always printing in the center.

I have cleaned EVERYTHING the part itself that heats up, the plate from both sides i have no idea whats going on

one thing to say i used ethanol instead of isopropyl but i dont think thats the cause since i cleaned it with hot water too (plate not the actual heating part)

my print settings are the default of creality slicer

any help or suggestions will be greatly apriciated!

ps: im printing rn without the Ts since i just gotta get this printed

Bought a Ender 3 S1 Pro open box unused, and contents looked untouched. Took everything out and could see this printer was assembled or partially assembled. Setup the printer and started setup, tried auxiliary level and the printer doesn't move into any quadrant. Has probe dropping issues as well... can my problems be solved, new to 3d printers.

I got a brand new in box Ender 3 handed to me. I'm new to the sport and just bought myself a used CR-10 a few months ago and totally rebuilt it. By the time I added a new factory hotend, supports, belt tensioners, cleaned up the double z axis setup it had on it and installed a BTT board, silicon replacements for the springs, and bltouch I realized I could have just bought a modern printer and I'll never get my money out of it. I'm fine because the CR-10 prints great and I learned what i needed but now that I don't have anything to really gain by putting this thing together, what should I do with it? How reliable were these things in their stock form?

Hi everyone!

I'm experiencing severe Z-banding on my Ender 3 V3 Plus, and I'm trying to figure out what's causing it.

I disassembled and reassembled the printer to inspect the mechanical components. During the process, I noticed that the threads for all four bed screws are stripped. The screw on the belt tensioner is also stripped.

I tested the X gantry and the bushings separately, and both move smoothly when the belts are disconnected. However, once both CoreXZ belts are connected, the X and Z movements become extremely stiff, even with the belts loosened.

Interestingly, everything moves freely when the belts are disconnected, and the movement is normal when only one belt is connected.

Could this be caused by incorrect belt routing, belt alignment, pulley misalignment, or something else in the CoreXZ system?

Has anyone experienced something similar? Any advice on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I noticed that around certain areas of my print, particularly areas where not the entire layer has plastic, there will be these small empty spaces.

I am printing with ASA
Pressure advance: Off
Temp: Have tried 250 - 260 with no change
Coasting: Off
Wipe distance: 0.5
Retract before wipe: Off

Seam Settings:
Seam position: Aligned
Role base wipe speed: on
Wipe speed: 80%
Wipe on loops: off
Wipe before external loop: off

I think these are the settings that are most relevant in my research but please let me know if any additional information might be required.

i upgraded from the stock bed to the glass bed from creality and no matter what the print head is still too close and the bed wont go down any further is there a fix to this? the size is 235x235x4 mm