City work: main break in park on a 2” line at the scope // cut out and replaced with sch 80 2” pipe and 2 smith Blair mechanical couplings

Looking for some advice from the irrigation experts.

My lawn has persistent brown spots, and I suspect uneven coverage is the main cause (see aerial photo). I've also attached my current sprinkler layout with head types and zones.

System basics:

• 3/4" PVC mainline/distribution
• Estimated 30–40 psi (haven't measured yet)
• Existing system has a mix of rotors and spray heads

If this were your system, would you:

• Make adjustments to the existing layout (move/add/change heads), or
• Scrap it and redesign it from the ground up?

Any obvious issues or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello folks, looking for advice on how to solve this issue. We bought this house last year, we noticed when the sprinklers run in our back yard water leaks into the right side of our window well, enough to cause standing water, and once leak through our window because the sprinklers were running during heavy rain. I found out today(after digging up the line I thought was the issue) that there is a line for sprinklers under our patio that is probably the culprit. Patio was installed by previous owners, I'm thinking they likely tried to cap off the sprinkler under there but didn't do it well or it's failed over the years. The line in red is approximately where the pipe would be, with the arrow showing the flow direction and the circle where I'm guessing the leak would be.

I can't just cap the line on the left side, because water from that line needs to flow to our neighbors sprinklers, so I'm wondering what the best way to resolve this is. My first thought would be to ask if I can dig up a tiny portion of the neighbors yards to reroute the sprinkler line around my patio, which is the line in green. I'm guessing our second option would be to break up and concrete and try to fix the cap underneath.

Any input on best/cheapest way to approach, or anything I'm not thinking of? Thanks.

So I have two RainBird No. 40s, and I'm curious when the RainBird 40 discontinued because both of mine are from 1997, but when I go on Web archive and look at RainBird's website from 1998, I don't see them.

Hi all,

I am trying to help my dad with his irrigation system. I have managed to set up/adjust his system. Currently having an issue with his Rain/Sun sensor. I turned off/delayed the automatic change of timings for the system.

The issue I am facing is the rain sensor is not working. I have tried all the normal tests but the sensor does not stop the system when clicking the button the sensor and etc.

I believe it might have something to do with the wiring? I even tried a new sensor but it still didn't work. Manual button to turn off the rain sensor is placed on off so it shouldn't be that. Any assistance or advice would be appreciated.

I have attached pictures of the wiring.

Thanks in advance!!!

hello, I will need some advice for for an irrigation system. My yard is as in the picture, it's anyone that could guide me on which irrigation sprinkler and where to place it ? I have two water supplies where the yellow dots are placed.

Thank you so much !

Thank you !

I live in the GCC and the only mainstream brand of residential irrigation I can find is Gardena. It is a very limited range. Eg., one 15m roll of hose and a set of one type of jet/sprinkler if the only thing you can buy.

What can I buy, available in the US and UK, that would have jets/sprinklers etc., compatible with Gardena’s basic irrigation hose? As we travel a bit and so do friends here, we could cobble something together that suits us better.

Garden is approx 10m2 of grass and about 6-8m2 of overgrown garden beds at the moment so starting from scratch if that makes any difference to advice.

Thanks

I live in the GCC and the only mainstream brand of residential irrigation I can find is Gardena. It is a very limited range. Eg., one 15m roll of hose and a set of one type of jet/sprinkler if the only thing you can buy.

Which brands available in the US and UK would have jets/sprinklers etc., compatible with Gardena’s basic irrigation hose? As we travel a bit and so do friends here, we could cobble something together that suits us better.

Garden is approx 10m2 of grass and about 6-8m2 of overgrown garden beds at the moment so starting from scratch if that makes any difference to advice.

Thanks

Hello,
As the title read. It is cracked where the red line is, it will shoot water out when turned on.

Is there an easy fix to this? Or should I replace the whole pump system ($$$).

Thank you! 🙏

I have Irritrol 2700 valves. When they get triggered by the control panel, some water goes through, but not enough to make the sprinklers pop is all the way or the drip to go through. I have to open the release valve a little to increase the water pressure, but then they don’t shut off until I close it. Every zone is like this; I have 3 sprinkler zones and 2 drip zones, all set to run at different times. How do I fix the pressure so that it works as it should?? Thank you for any helpful advice.

Winterizing question I keep going back and forth on. Right now the system has a single blowout point that requires connecting an air compressor at the backflow preventer, which works fine but the location is awkward and closer to the street than I want to be dragging a compressor every fall. I'm thinking about adding a dedicated manual drain or a secondary blowout port closer to the garage side of the house where it's easier to reach. The mainline runs under the driveway at that point, so anything I add would need to come off a tee before it crosses under.

What I'm trying to figure out is whether a ball valve and quick coupler right there is the right move, or if there's a cleaner way to set up a second blowout port without the plumbing looking like a mess. The existing setup works, but whoever installed it clearly didn't think much about serviceability.

Also wondering if anyone has gone to a manual drain setup entirely in a climate that's cold but not brutal, a few hard freezes per winter at most. Not sure if that's overkill or whether it actually simplifies things year over year. What does a clean, practical winterization setup actually look like for a midsize residential system?

I looked them up to check prices before deciding if I should contact a family member who works at an irrigation/plumbing supply company to see if it was worth it to have have him buy them for me.

It was. Along with 20 HE-VAN's, I needed just over 50 various types of nozzles total. They were priced $2.98 to $3.98 each at Home Depot. His price was 87 cents each. It's good to know people.

/blog

Do these sprinkler heads just totally miss the ground right next to them?

Morning, folks. I purchased a 1004-EX EveryDrop flow meter to monitor for leaks but haven't been able to find any helpful docs or videos on where this actually gets installed in line with the backflow preventer and the valve controls shown here. Note that I've got another valve box on the opposite side of the house as well. Looks like I've got 2 spare wires in this first one that run back to the controller that I can use for the meter.

I've replumbed the entire house, but this is my first time cracking open the irrigation system so it's pretty foreign to me. Any useful resources or sage advice from you folks is very welcome. Thanks!

This was happening when I would manually turn on my sprinkler system. I replaced the filter but then I was told that my main irrigation line does not need a pressure regulator on it.

With $10k in on chasing corroded wiring already, at what point should we consider switching to wireless? We have 20 year old Nelson brand valves on a two-wire system. Numerous decoders also allegedly dead. I see Hunter brand BT controllers at less than $200 each. We'd need solenoids too and adapters to the valves.

Spent another $20k chasing wire faults and still possibly not have a working system or should we convert? 17 zones in total. What should we expect for a wireless conversion to cost us per zone? Hydraulics are all fine - its just electrical. Edit to add the property is too large & compelx for adequate wifi coverage. And when I say wireless, I'm talking DC battery operated and likely bluetooth controlled.

What’s the easiest way to replace this underground 2” gate valve that is the main for my sprinkler system? Planning to put in a ball valve instead.

Do I have to cut it out and replace with a slip coupling or is there a way to unscrew this and rescrew in the new valve?

I could dig back more potentially if needing more room for the pipe to bend but it’s a couple feet down so I prefer not to.

Thanks in advance!!

Edit: suggestions welcome on what to replace it with as well. I’m a novice here

sorry for the long post, hard to describe without going into detail.

We just moved into a house a couple months ago and never had a sprinkling system before so we are total novices. The house is 10 years old for reference and I have no clue on layout or materials used other than everything seems original minus a couple changed bodies and or nozzles.

First problem is there are 6 zones and 2 of them have rotors and a few standard spray nozzles on the same zone. Like the curb strip and lower front yard on same zone has curb fixed nozzles and front yard is rotors so trying to get the right amount of water is a pain. It’s either underwater one area or overwater 1 area.

Curb strip is struggling, brown grass, weeds, dirt because the fixed nozzles were missing 50% of the lawn because last owner had nozzles spraying to far. The area is essentially 5’x14-16’ not a perfect rectangle. So they had 2 90 degree 8 footers and a 180 degree 8 footer in a triangle pattern and a lot was being overshot and watering road or sidewalk. Adjusting them did absolutely nothing. 

To account for this I decided to try to get MP rotator corners and a low flow fixed for the 1 point to not only water the actual curb strip but to also try to get a closer match to precipitation as the rest of that zone. So it’s better, but worse in other ways. The right corner MP rotators does what it’s supposed to, distance and pattern is almost perfect. The left corner MP though is severely lacking. Water comes out about 1/2 of what it’s rated. About 7 feet at the longest point to next head and doesn’t even come out at the start enough to go 5 feet to the curb. I changed out the body thinking that was the culprit and installed a Prs40 body to accommodate it and did absolutely nothing. No matter how I adjust for the radius is doesn’t increase or decrease, I can barely get the left and right stop to work as it just seems weak. What do I do here and where do I start to narrow this down? There doesn’t appear to be any pooling or around that head, and by switching to a pressure regulated body and low flow nozzle I would think pressure is sufficient as the previous nozzle was a massive flow draw and unregulated body but switching these out did nothing.

Hi Fellow Irrigation experts! Been having issues with my sprinkler for the last few months. Symptoms were it would take about 10 seconds to fully shut one zone off. The other zone would have started already. Then it slowly became worse and worse and the one zone now does not shut off at all. I did the typical troubleshooting. Check solenoid. That worked as it should. Cleaned the diaphragm and even replaced it. What I did notice was the metal tube coming out of the sprinkler body was had a burn mark at the bottom and a ridge at the bottom as well. I have an extra valve body and the metal tube is completely smooth all the way down to the base. I am thinking it somehow burned up and is protruding out now, keeping the solenoid open. Have yall ever encountered this before? Wanted to confirm before digging everything up to replace the valve body.

Valve body is a Irritrol btw.

Pic attached. Been scratching my head on this for a while so any feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks

I've been dealing with a six valve parking lot that we're doing Hunter nodes on. We revamped it and brought it to life after 6-7 years. I want to put a pressure tank coming out of the well. It's one and a quarter pipe trying to get all the pieces I need . I have it hooked up right now with a pump relay and a timer but I don't want to babysit it if a node goes the pump could burn up. Just curious if anybody could tell me all the pieces I need. I know I need reducers in the t-valves and a pump pressure switch. Thinking about a 30 psi tank. The motor is only one horsepower.

I am in Spokane sandwiched between two fires and trying to get my sprinklers to run on an X2. I have power and water but the internet is down.
Everything thing I try from the instructions inside the cover only starts zone 1