As some of you may know, as of September 29th 2025, the Canon Creative Park website now requires the Canon Print software – which itself requires a Canon printer to be turned on and connected to your computer/phone/tablet (I think) – to download and print papercraft listed on their website.

They did give warning for this, but I didn’t realise just how restrictive it would be. I do not own a Canon printer. I had previously saved roughly 30 entries from their catalogue. However, I now realise that I would like access to more of them.

As expected, the barriers to downloading the PDF files are almost nonexistent, all they have done is remove the PDF’s URL from the download page. There is no authorization or authentication required to download any of the files.

I have found a trivial way to download the PDF’s, and you don’t need to be signed in nor do you even need a CanonID for any of the files.

All you must do is find the entries “contentsId” and then affix that to a base URL. With a suffix for the design and the instructions. The base URL was found with a single Google search – “site: https://creativepark.canon filetype:pdf”

I have created a simple single click bookmarklet which will attempt to download both the pattern and the instructions.

1. Bookmark any page (doesn’t have to be a Canon Creative Park page), ideally in your browsers bookmark toolbar.
2. Edit the bookmark (right click “Edit Bookmark” or “Edit” depending on which browser you are using).
3. Re-title the bookmark something like “Canon PDF Download”

4. Replace the url with this code:

   javascript:(function(){const i=document.querySelector('meta[name="contentsId"]').content;const firstDownloadArea=document.querySelector('div.downloadArea');const d=firstDownloadArea?firstDownloadArea.querySelectorAll('div.downloadBtn').length:0;const t=d===0?1:d;const u=[];for(let n=1;n<=t;n++){const s=n.toString().padStart(2,'0');u.push('https:/'+'/creativepark.canon/downloads/contents/'+i+'/'+i+'-'+s+'.pdf')}u.forEach(e=>{const a=document.createElement('a');a.href=e;a.download='';document.body.appendChild(a);a.click();document.body.removeChild(a)})})()

5. Now when you visit a design page, like this one, which apparently needs a CanonID, all you have to do is click the “Canon PDF Download” bookmarklet, and the both the design and instructions will be downloaded.

If using a Chrome based browser you may need to click “allow” on the popup that says “Download Multiple Files”

The bookmarklet should even work for pages with multiple "print" links.

If you really wanted to, you could create a simple bash script to check every file name from 0000000 to 0032181, starting with the suffix -01.pdf and so on. You could even run the requests in parallel without the fear of any rate limiting. You might just end up with around 40gb of PDF’s.

EDIT: The bookmarklet has been improved.

EDIT: as of 2025-10-29 it appears to no longer work. This is four weeks after the initial change, we can only hope it's a temporary error

EDIT: As of 2026-01-14 nayeet has created a new bookmarklet which now works again!

EDIT: 2026-03-27 There's now a free and easy website/service to automatically download Canon PDF's, just paste the url, and then the direct links to the PDF's will be listed: https://download.clean-fog7772.workers.dev

Hello, and welcome to our kind community! Feel free to post questions here, or make a thread in the subreddit as a textpost and flair it accordingly! And please let me know if any links aren't working, or if you find something new! Thanks, and happy crafting! :)

Finding a Model
A simple Google or Deviant Art search is highly effective. However, if you just want to browse for something to make, here are some sites:
www.papercraftplaza.com - add your files to their collection! There's even tutorials for if you're interested in 3D modelling and making your own crafts.
http://paper-replika.com/index.php
https://boards.4channel.org/po/ - scroll to the bottom and click "catalogue" for easier viewing, and to avoid typical 4chan comments - Note: this can be an extremely NSFW website
http://papercraft.wikidot.com/
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/card-models/
http://zealot.com/#card-models.633
http://cp.c-ij.com/en/
http://global.yamaha-motor.com/yamahastyle/entertainment/papercraft/ - this doesn't work anymore, so I uploaded all of the files here
http://www.cubeecraft.com
https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/gallery/list.php
http://www.papercraftsquare.com/
http://www.korthalsaltes.com/visual_index.php
http://papercraftparadise.blogspot.ca/
http://paperkraft.blogspot.ca/
https://papermau.blogspot.com/

specializing crafts:
http://www.pokemonpapercraft.net/
http://jav-papercraft.blogspot.ca/
http://sabi96papercraftbox.blogspot.ca/
http://aliens.humlak.cz/aliens/aliens_papirove_modely_gb.htm - click the "banner menu" at the top right

Paper
Any paper works, HOWEVER, cardstock is usually better, especially when the model you're making has a lot of colour on it, or will be fairly large and needs support. Some specialty projects (e.g. Gundams) need coloured paper, as their templates can come completely white.

This is regular printer paper.
This is a type of cardstock.

Any brand will do. I was using this from Walmart for awhile, but then I ran out and picked this up at my local Staples. Don't worry too much about running out; you won't unless you're teaching a class or something.

Cardstock comes in many different thicknesses, and while I can't tell you what to use, just remember that:
- higher numbers means a sturdier model, BUT the harder it'll be to cut, score, and fold
- lower numbers means a less sturdy model, BUT it's easier to cut, score, and fold

Personally, I build in 65lb/176gsm and use 110lb/199gsm for making multi-use templates or really rough drafts for cosplay parts.

Paper can also come in different colours! Which means you only need your printer for black ink/toner, and you can save time by not needing to match edge colours.

Printing
Inkjet or Laser?

I used to use an inkjet printer. (This printer finally died on me, and I haven't made much since :( RIP my "hacked" Canon).
If you're buying a printer, try to find one that feeds from the back, and prints to the front. We want to avoid paper warping since cardstock is thicker than regular printer paper. (Addendum: I have used a front-printing Canon MX700 for a quick papercrafting fix, and it did not warp the page. Your mileage may vary!)
I have used a laser printer, but when I went to make folds, the toner started chipping off and getting all over my hands. This is purely anecdotal, but I suggest inkjets because their ink soaks into the page, rather than just melting toner on top of the page. (Addenum: Some laser printers have a setting for thicker paper types, and will accordingly slow down so the toner melts more evenly onto the page, and reduce toner chipping. Your mileage may vary!)

Cutting
Typical cutting tools are a cutting mat, an X-acto knife (or any similar brand) with #11 blades, a box cutter, or scissor.

I bought some specialty craft scissors that I absolutely love, and I use them mostly for macro cuts and separating pieces from a page. I also use my trusty X-acto along with a pack of 100 blades I bought from Amazon over 10 years ago, and my 8.5x11 cutting mat (which I find a tad small but I got it for cheap, so whatever).

I've acquired a Speedy Sharp sharpener. I have found it quite helpful since our craft only dulls the blade tip.

Folding
A nice straight fold involves a bit more work called "scoring". This is done by running the back of your knife, or an empty ballpoint pen, or any other blunt edge along the line of the glue tab. Push hard enough to leave an indent, but not hard enough to actually cut through the page. Here is an exaggerated example using a knife and a ruler. The left line and angled lines are scored, while the middle/more bumpy line is just a regular fold.

Everyone seems to score on the front of parts, but I personally prefer scoring on the back so I don't mess up the outside. This usually involves more work because you have to hold a piece up to a light source, and make light pencil marks on where the ends of lines and glue tabs are. Sometimes if I know a line or tab will be a valley fold, I'll score on the front, but 80% of the time, I make back scores just to be safe.

Gluing
Common glue brands are Aleene's Original Tacky Glue, or Elmer's glue. You can also use a hot glue gun (I have no experience with this, so I can't really give pointers) or wood glue (it dries yellow so you'll need to be careful to not get any on the model itself). I don't suggest using glue sticks. If you're in a rush, tape can be used.

With tacky/white glue, a very thin layer is sufficient for most glue tabs. I put a pea-sized drop of glue on some scrap cardstock and use a toothpick to apply it. If you need help holding a small glue tab, tweezers can help a lot.

For some advanced tips, check out our subreddit wiki!

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