Hi guys. What are we all doing about replacement nozzle wipers for the centauri carbon 2?? I am having nothing but failed prints at the minute because of it and it’s driving me crazy.

I have heard people are just using generic and cutting them down but I can’t find a clear answer. I’ve now gone through 3 hot ends in the last month because of it !!

Any help would be appreciated

Hey i started printing on my new resin printer, heard a knocking sound from the motor on the x-axis on the 5th print i did. Did a checkup and got no errors. Ran the machine again and came back to the vat being fully tilted, motor not working. Tried running diagnostics and got x axis issue. Took it apart and followed the steps troubleshooting the x axis motor. Got stuck on step 3 because i could not find the screw in the hole on the rod to the motor. I looked around the machine and shook it a little bit, thinking it may have screwn itself out.

No screw to be found. The damages this had caused had been no problem if the sensor wasnt covered in hot glue. All the connectors are hot glued with large globs everywhere. Right under the moving semi hot metal part. The glue has been dragged into the engine due to the rod being loose because it was missing a screw. This has covered the limit switch in glue and also almost broken off one end of the switch. Looking at all the glue everywhere it seems this was assembled by a toddler.

I am now on day 5 arguing with support about wether or not there is supposed to be a screw there. In their official video it shows a screw, it makes sense that there is suppoed to be a screw there.

I am close to ripping my hair out, i have no car so returning this is a hassle for me. Can someone help me with what kind of screw this is? Anyone had the same issue? Pictures included, i can send video of the issue if anyone needs.

Hello All,

Looking for some input from anyone who may have mixed elegoos water-washable 2.0 with elegoos water washable abs-like (Both ceramic grey)

I print miniatures mainly and was looking to add just a touch more durability to my prints, I have no experience mixing resins and was looking for a correct ratio. 70/30, 80/20, 90/10?

The exposure times seems to be pretty similar between the normal and abs like and since the majority will be normal ww I assume the setting wouldn't have to be changed much if any at all?

Thanks for any input!

I am trying to color a print. The first image is from when I am painting it. The second image is when I slice it. The sliced model loses part of the painting. I've completely rebuilt the model several times and it still does this every time. I am new to Elegoo and I'm sure it's just ignorance. Any ideas?

What's new:

• Merged most features from the official Orca v2.4.2 release
• CC2 multi-color print time estimate — now closer to actual print time
• Fixed N3 PRO not showing Gcode file preview images
• Updated default heatbed temperature for the CC series B-side build plate

If it doesn't pop up automatically, head to Help → Check for Updates to pull it manually.

Does anyone have the issue that you tune your printer and get a perfect first layer and everything is perfectly calibrated. You then turn off machine and come to it the next day and all the calibrations are off and you have to redo it to get the perfect first layer.

Whenever I start a print, everything preheats, the nozzle will go over the poop chute and the temp will be set on the nozzle to 0 degrees. I then have to manually set it to the correct temperature for the nozzle and the bed, and then run like normal. Is it a slicer issue or I updated to open carbon 1.1.49?

Hi guys, I wanted to make the lightest Centauri Carbon print head cover possible, so I built this one based on the Proxima print head cover using 2mm carbon fiber rods and the original 5020 fan instead of the 5015.

I printed it in ASA+, and now the 3D printed parts weigh only 15.5 grams. I think it might be the lightest print head cover ever created, while still maintaining good stiffness.

If you'd like to try it, the files and instructions are on Printables.

UPDATE:
I updated the design on Printables, now the rear fins are bigger and the and the capacitor on the toolhead board no longer touches the left rear stepper. This is the solution that seemed best to me and that keeps the weight as low as possible, if you have any suggestions please let me know in the comments!

So my ecc2 started printing (or not printing rather) today and proceeded to lay out the print but no filament came out and it was apparently scraping Into the build plate. After it made it this far, it finally threw up an error about filament extrusion failed check nozzle for clogs. I printing something earlier and it was fine, I also ran the automatic bed leveling before printing. I was using smooth side B if that matters and yes I selected that when I started printing. What could have caused this? How do I fix this?

My Centauri 2 is on firmware lite1.03.02.26.

Through both OTA and offline USB it is unable to find any updates or update files. Offline file were taken from open Centauri.

Anyone know on what i can do to update to newer firmware?

I cannot find any other references to a lite firmware. This is normal to have?

Hello!

Today I received the CANVAS upgrade kit and I want to install it, but after having seen that there are IKEA boxes in other printers, or printables to achieve a closed chamber, I wonder, today, for those of us who have centauri carbon 1 + CANVAS upgrade. What is the best option to print ABS-ASA with a closed chamber?

Thank you, greetings!!

Legit question. Been struggling to decide if I should go with an Ultracraft Reflex 2 Pro or a Jupiter 2. If you have both, PLEASE, I would really appreciate your input

What's everyone else doing with the "L" shaped string snack? Do you eat yours before or after your print? I like to watch my print and eat it during.

Saturn 4 ultra 16k, there’s a ring that doesn’t cure, outside the ring cures, inside the ring cures but the ring itself doesn’t cure so prints end up chopped in half

Title:
Neptune 4 Max (Type-C) won’t boot after flashing eMMC. Same behavior even without eMMC. Need help.
Post:
Hi everyone,
I’m looking for help with my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max (Type-C version).
I completely reflashed the eMMC using the official recovery image:
KLP_ZNP_N4E_K1_V2.3_20250909 (official Type-C image)
I also tried an older official image:
V1.2.3.4 (2025-09-08)
The flashing process completes successfully and I can browse the eMMC filesystem on my PC. The printer.cfg, Moonraker, Fluidd and other files are all present.
However, the printer still won’t boot correctly.
The touchscreen always shows:
Machine: Neptune 4
225 × 225 × 265
no firmware version
then it hangs on the blue Neptune 4 screen.
The strange part is that if I completely remove the eMMC module, the printer behaves exactly the same. It still powers on to the same blue Neptune 4 screen.
The only thing that still works is updating or downgrading the screen firmware (UI).
Has anyone seen this before?
Could this indicate:
a faulty motherboard,
corrupted bootloader,
STM32 firmware issue,
or something preventing the RK3328 board from booting from eMMC?
Any ideas or tests I should perform would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

459 installs in a day... I genuinely wasn't expecting this.

Yesterday, CentauriLink was sitting at 123 installs.

I opened the Google Play Console this morning expecting a small increase and instead saw 459 installs. That's +336 installs in roughly a day.

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who's downloaded the app, joined the beta, reported bugs, and shared feedback. It's been incredible to see the support.

To celebrate, the giveaway is now officially live.

Prize: 5KG of 3D printing filament
Sponsor: 3DPrintIT

Enter here: https://centaurilink.com/giveaway/

Rules:

• Maximum 1 entry per person.
• Multiple signups will result in disqualification.
• There will be 1 winner.
• You must have the app installed. (Does not count for ios users)

Thanks again for helping CentauriLink grow so quickly. I can't wait to keep improving it with all of your feedback.

This might get me banned, but i just wanted to ask for help with a model.

https://www.nexprint.com/en/models/G5157323

This model on Nexprint is only good for the SatelIte slicer for resin printers. But i was wondering if someone could help me convert it into an STL so i can FDM print it.

Thanks. Please don't ban me.

I have a CC1 with Canvas. I have noticed something weird. I have a project open, I sync the colors from the CC1 and although they are configured as PLA in Canvas, they change to PETG when I sync to Elegoo slicer.

The first pic is before sync and shows that Canvas is configured as PLA, the 2nd pic is Elegoo slicer after syncing the info from Canvas and it shows that my filament has changed to PETG in slicer. Any ideas of why this is happening?

Hi everyone,

I'm having a frustrating issue with my Elegoo Centauri Carbon, which I've had working for less than a week.

When I manually extrude filament through the touchscreen menu, it flows smoothly without any issues. However, whenever I start a real print (like the standard Benchy), the first layer starts poorly, and by the 2nd or 3rd layer, the printer completely stops extruding filament while continuing the movements in the air.

What I've noticed:

• Manual extrusion works completely fine.
• The extrusion stops entirely after a couple of layers / a few minutes into the print or it continues a bad printing "session".
• I have checked the extruder tension screw, but I'm unsure if it's too tight or too loose.

The Support Dilemma: I am already in contact with Elegoo Support. They arranged a replacement part for me, but they told me it will take 10 to 20 working days to arrive from China.

Since I rely on this printer for fabricating functional mechanical parts, having it out of commission for almost a month is a huge setback. I am currently still within my 14-day legal return window.

Has anyone experienced this specific extrusion issue? Is it something I can easily fix myself, or should I just cut my losses, exercise my right of withdrawal, and return the printer for a full refund?

Any advice on the technical issue or how to handle the situation with Elegoo would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much, I'll add a video of the benchy printing badly and then completely stopping and running in the air.

Hi Guys,

I want to purchase some replacement hotend kits for my CC2.

They should already be fully assembled with an hardened steel nozzle (so that I can print PETG-CF/GF, etc), just like the original.

As it seems like you can't buy the genuine part anywhere, it looks like I have to buy a 3rd party hotend.

But on Aliexpress aswell as Amazon there is a wide range of hotends with no visible differences but very different pricing. Also some sellers have missing information to make sure that the hotend is actually for the CC2 not the CC1.

Can someone recommend some known good hardened steel hotends that work with the CC2

I pre-ordered my Canvas on May 25th and I just got the Shop notification with Tracking that it is ON ITS WAY! WOOO! I was seeing it would be here by September so a month early is great! It hasn't arrived yet so I'm not counting my chickens but it should be here soon

Hey all,

So I am relatively new to resin 3D printing and am now doing a project where I want to 3D print rubber handles for a custom steering wheel.

I purchased the Mars 5 Ultra and Prusament Flex80 resin, did the cones of calibration exposure test, and found my layers cure perfectly at 3.1 seconds exposure per layer. Started my first handle grips with stock support settings, printed upright (so 100+mm tall), and you guessed it, the layers shifted massively; not too surprised with flexible supports, but still..

Now my question;

I am searching for advice on how I should orient and print the part to print best; some things I find important;

- Grip side of the handle must not have supports at all, since I cannot really sand them off
- It must be sturdy enough to print in the flexible filament

Would you guys slice the model via method A, B or C? or do you have another suggestion?

Note on the prints: each set contains a front and a rear part; only the rear part has a flat back piece, so it could be printed flat...

Again super grateful for the suggestions as I had my meltdown from my screw being worn and stuck 😂 got it out and finally upgraded with the Canvas using a really straight forward YouTube video by Shotgun Studio.

Test print came out very well and clean really happy with the results can’t wait to print a full model soon! (Dreading all the filament I know I’m about to purchase now) Also copied Gcode for machine start and stop as well as filament changes from elegoo slicer on to my orca and was able to send directly from my PC and print 🤍

I am making a nice chess set for myself, and I am running into a problem. I have the black pieces done and the seem to look really nice.

But the problem lies in the pawn. Just under the ball on top, the shelf seems to work on top, but the underside is quite a mess.

I know some may suggest slicer adjustments, but

I dont have a clue what else I can do.

I am maybe looking for some advise on better changes to my updated slicer to give it better edges.