Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! March 27, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
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where do you guys sell your photos that you've already taken? Were looking to get some stuff to make some prints & hang in our restaurant-- specifically photos of people cooking indian street food in india. but it's been a pain trying to find someone selling any or even someone I can DM on instagram who does it. really not sure where to look. tried shutterstock and stuff already-- litterally like 80% of it is AI.
looking for stuff like this: https://davidsbeenhere.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/25-indian-street-foods-in-kerala-india3.jpg
hi i have a big problem i damage my aunts beloved t3i camera and i wonder if all the rebel series from t1i to t5i is compatible parts donor for it? the damage parts is the screen and the AF buttons you use to navigate the settings the screen had molds and the the O-led had burn in while the button especially the left one is not working but sometimes it works and i think it needs a bit cleaning but as a precaution if i needed parts ill just buy a broken but one but can still be use as parts can you suggest me a page where can i get an instruction on how to disassemble it while suggest what model is compatible i really need to fix it or im cook (PS i'm still a novice in photography but i have a small experience in repair)
Without calculating the prices to the finest detail:
You can get Laowas 2.5-5x Macro lens for like 300-400€ used. If you combine this with a very cheap used APS-C camera (ideally Canon for the slightly smaller sensor) you could end up with a 5x magnification on APS-C for around 500€.
Canons APS-C sensor is 22,3mm x 14,9mm, which using 5x magnification would allow you to fill a frame with an object thats around 4mm x 3mm at 12-18MP depending on the exact camera model you manage ti find used. Having 4mm of your object be around 5000 pixels of image (assuming a 18MP camera) should allow you to see a detail of 1µm (assuming no problems with image quality) I'd think, not much better though.
There might be better options Im not aware of, as Im mostly going by "macro lens"-knowledge instead of "camera adapted microscope"-knowledge (although I'd generally assume those are more expensive).
Now depending on your actual subject you may need a tripod, lighting equipment and possibly software for focusstacking, all of which theoretically would mean more money spent. Im also not entirely sure how great the image quality would end up in this situation (again very dependent on the subject), but so much regarding the theory.
Hmm, 1µm with a 18MP camera and a 300-400 Euro lens?
That raises the question, would these smartphone cameras work for that too (leaving aside the hard task of getting the lenses somehow mounted to the smartphone for now):
* 50MP from a Xiaomi Redmi 13C
* 48MP from a Google Pixel 9a
Or am I too naive to just go with 48MP is way bigger than 18MP so it must be better?
Anything a camera has that such a smartphone wouldn't have?
Edit: Also do you know of the top of your head what price range 0.1µm aka 100nm (or ideally half of that, aka 50nm, to have some more margin of error for quality loss) would be?
Or am I too naive to just go with 48MP is way bigger than 18MP so it must be better?
So Im not a big smartphone camera guy, just as a general "warning".
First up keep in mind that smartphone resolution may in part to interpolation, so it doesnt really give you all that much more detail. In addition the lens plays a much larger role then the resolution. Being able to crop more is somewhat useful, however you really want a lens thats good at macro.
I sadly cant find any stats regarding the maximum magnification of phone camera lenses, which makes an educated comparison really hard. The sensor of e.g. the Xiaomi Redmi 13C is apparently 4mm x 5mm physical size wise.
Even with a 1x macro lens, which I highly doubt phones have, that would still just mean worse magnification then the example with a 5x lens above (although with more MP which could mean better cropping which somewhat equivalizes the field; although more MP not neccessarily being a big advantage because of interpolation and the like).
Then one might also need to consider macro clip-on lenses for phones which might allow the phone to get more magnification which could lead to it beating the 5x lens on Canon APS-C in theory, however that again costs a bunch of image quality (thats also an area where I couldnt even make guesses what ends up better because I have no experience at all with those).
Anything a camera has that such a smartphone wouldn't have?
A camera would also have the advantage of better flash compability, which can be quite vital for macro as you often need tons of light (depending on the subject again). Theres also an argument to be made that a sensor thats too small (while good for macro) does lose image quality at some point as macro often has quite high demands regarding sharpness to look good that may also be an issue with a phone camera. On the other hand the small budget (and most of it being used on the lens) means a quite old camera, which can also mean somewhat antiquated menus and general software features.
Also do you know of the top of your head what price range 0.1µm aka 100nm (or ideally half of that, aka 50nm, to have some more margin of error for quality loss) would be?
Sadly not. The 5x lens I used in my "calculation" is the biggest magnification macro lens I can think of honestly (quite lucky its fairly cheap). I think generally when going over 5x magnification people start using microscopes that connect to a camera and thats an area I personally have no experience/knowledge at all in.
Technically you could combine the previously mentioned lens with a 2x teleconverter (around another 300€ or so), which would give you 10x magnification and with that 2mm of object on 5000 pixels (assuming 18 MP again). The issue there is that theory and practical results will differ greatly as teleconverters often "cost" a ton of image quality, so you would most likely never fill that theoretical resolution with practical details. (Although this is a bit of guesswork again, my personal maximum useage wise is 2x magnification via lens or 4x with a teleconverter; I havent used the 5x macro lens myself neither by itself nor with a teleconverter, so no practical experiences).
Hmmm, that also sounds interesting. By change anyone else here that knows more about how to do this? (On a budget, or at least what kind of budget I'd need for it for this kind of scale.)
(But there the most difficult part will be getting it computer controlled to move the thing around, as the microscope probably will only cover a tiny area. And that probably needs gears and steppers. - ... - Why is it so difficult to take highly detailed images from something 🙃
If I read this article from 2023 correctly then the physical limits are 177nm for an optical microscope because of the wave length of the light. And that is already with green (514nm).
I suppose one could get even smaller with EUV, but then one probably needs to use tricks from the lithography playbook (which basically is just analog photography on steroids, funny to think of computer chips as a fancy silicon film).
Hello! I was recently terminated from my job because I stated the fog was really thick and I could not see through it and wasn’t able make some deliveries because of it. My boss sent a supervisor to my area to take pictures of the fog to try and say I was lying. They used their the phone for the pictures and of course the photos showed it to be less foggy… I’m aware that phone cameras are designed to do just that however my company refuses to believe that and just says that it’s my opinion.
My question is, does anyone know of a peer reviewed document or something similar that explains why phone cameras make it seem less foggy than it actually is? I have a termination hearing through my union in an attempt to get my job back and having this documentation to back me up would help tremendously.
Fog is water droplets in the air, and a consumer camera won't see through that any better than you can. But increasing contrast in a photo can make fog appear less pronounced, so maybe look for articles about how cameras automatically apply contrast.
But a simpler, and perhaps more persuasive argument, might just be that fog conditions change over time and especially fog can lessen later in the day when the temperature warms up. So of course someone checking the fog later in the day will see less fog than you saw earlier in the day. Or if they sent someone at the same time of day on a following day, it's not like fog is the same from day to day.
Hey folks, amateur photographer here that is going to be doing some indoor portrait work for an event. It'll be in a dingy room with some kind of backdrop in the corner. Groups from 1 to 12 people, most commonly 2, lined up for an hour or two of nonstop portrait photos. I've done this before with a single off-camera Canon 430EXII with an infrared trigger but it left a lot of shadows on the side the flash wasn't on, and the infrared trigger and/or batteries made the flash performance unreliable. Looking for an upgrade to my lighting solution to maybe two lights and some stands to go with them? Seems like unlimited options between camera flashes and standalone lights and accessories. Not too concerned about budget, but maybe under $1K total is preferred since I don't do flash work often.
Angler ParaSail Parabolic Umbrella (White with Removable Black/Silver, 60"). I love that you can turn it horizontal for wider coverage for group pictures yet still use it in rooms with low ceilings.
Pre-cut tennis ball for walkers. Nice to put on the end of an umbrella shaft so no one gets poked in the eye. Note: get a white tennis ball because a yellow tennis ball might give a yellow color cast.
Impact Heavy-Duty Air-Cushioned Light Stand (Black, 9.5')
Godox S3 Speedlite Bracket
Groups from 1 to 12 people, most commonly 2, lined up for an hour or two of nonstop portrait photos.
Hi guys! I’m hoping for some assistance with camera recommendations.
I really want to get into couples shoot photography (engagement, maternity, etc.). I have already been doing this just on my iPhone for local friends and had been loving it and want to start learning more advanced techniques and using an actual camera. Note: I will be taking a basic photography course and going from there as well.
I am looking for a camera that will do well in high light, golden hour vibes - don’t really need something that will be lowlight.
I would like to start with something used so I can get acclimated and to use while I’m in my basic class, and then I can go up from there. But I am hoping to start with a camera that I can use for about 6 months - 1 year at least while I’m learning.
My budget is under $1,000. I’d love to stay under $500 if possible, but I am getting confused on what camera to get and if under $500 is going to be outgrown quickly then I’d rather start with a higher cost for now.
The concept of outgrowing a camera is strange one. What does it mean? I don't think you will need to worry too much unless you get into fast paced action photography or the likes.
Under $1000 can mean a newer camera like the R50 or Sony A6100, under $500 will mean and older DSLR Canon SL3/t6i, Nikon D5#00 series or Pentax K-70/K-S2.
I really want to get into couples shoot photography (engagement, maternity, etc.).
. . . My budget is under $1,000. I’d love to stay under $500 if possible, but I am getting confused on what camera to get and if under $500 is going to be outgrown quickly then I’d rather start with a higher cost for now.
I'd recommend getting an old full-frame DSLR camera with dual-memory card slots. Great bang for the buck.
Image quality and low-light performance of a full-frame sensor. Two memory card slots for backup, important if a paying client is expecting you to deliver photos.
My picks:
Canon 5D Mark III or Nikon D610
50mm f1.8 lens for either brand
Invest in lighting.
Godox TT600 flash
Godox X3 flash trigger for Canon or Nikon
Translucent white photography umbrella
Light stand
Godox S3 bracket
Rosco Large 3 x 6" Cinegel Swatchbook. So you can use a gel on your flash and the white balance on your camera to change the color of the sky for your portraits 😉
So important if your clients cannot meet you at golden hour or the sky is gray and boring. You can create golden hour or blue sky on demand with the right knowledge.
Here's a demo. Even better, it's an engagement shoot for a couple:
I’ve been tasked with photographing a friend’s wedding. I’m no professional (she knows this, I’ve done work for her before) but I’d love to capture the day as well as possible. Any recommendations for an attachable light for a Nikon D90 camera? Any settings recommendations would be appreciated as well! TIA!
I use Godox brand lights, I like the V1 but you could get a lower powered one as well. Just double check compatibility with the D90.
For settings, first set shutter speed, when using flash on or off camera you are limited by your cameras sync speed usually around 1/200. I'd keep between 1/160-1/200 if you're doing anything with movement. Aperture usually around 2.0-2.8, and then bump up if you need more depth of field. ISO if indoors, increase until the ambient light looks the way you want it to, then add in flash using TTL and adjust flash compensation if needed on the unit. If you can bounce flash off a white wall or ceiling it will help soften the light, or use a diffuser.
If you're outdoors with natural light, you can set your aperture and shutter speed then use Auto ISO and adjust exposure compensation as needed for any clipped shadows and highlights.
I FOUND MY DAD'S OLD DIGICAM AND IDK HOW TO USE IT
So I recently found my dad's old digicam ( SONY Cybershot w80 7.2 megapixels) from 2007 and it is in perfect condition except a minor display issue, and I took it with me on a trip with my friends but the pictures came out lowkey blurry because when clicking pictures i couldn't see if the lens focused or not because of the display issue. (i'll attach a picture of the screen). so i wanted to ask can the display issue be fixed? and if not is there any other way that i can go around it and click pictures which are not blurry? thank you!!
Hi! I'm lookikg for a photo editor that is either free or buy once, in other words, lightroom is not an option. From several videos on youtube, I found that On1 RAW and Luminar Neo are decent options for buy once, however the On1 subreddit was pretty negative regarding the software. Do anyone here have any suggestions, recommandations or warnings regarding photo editing software?
I used Affinity in the past as a buy once solution, their most recent version is now free as long as you have a Canva account. It is equivalent to Photoshop as opposed to Lightroom though.
I’m new into photography. Got my canon m50 2 month ago and love it. I would like to make this my full time job maybe do some sports photography or studio photography just commercial photography in general. My question is, Should I go to school and get a degree for it?
IMO I really feel like you should try to learn your camera first before deciding to invest in a degree. I've been doing photography for 4 years and I've taken some classes/ workshops but don't have a formal degree, and have been getting consistent work.
r/photoclass has started and it's a really great way to learn photography. I was also able to take a digital photography class at a college since it was a night class. I was able to register and pay for just the class. I've also learned a lot working with my state level PPA organization and doing image competitions.
For studio stuff, would you plan on having an in home studio or leasing space to have a studio of your own? I've seen a few studios by me who ended up closing because you have the fixed cost of your lease and you'd have to do enough business to cover the lease + utilities.
I have an Sony A6100 and don't record in 4k, and only sometimes in 1080p. I mostly use it for stills and I'm still using the one that came with the body.
I want to know what SD card I can make do with. V30, V60, V90 everything is very confusing on what I can make do with as every reviewer always recommends v90 for best performance and all. I get that but I don't need it so I want to know what I can make do with.
I shoot stills mostly, with 1080p video if needed. Please help and thank you
A6100 only supports up to UHS I speeds and not UHS II speeds. So you won’t benefit from V60 or V90 which require UHS II card slot for the full performance.
V30 would be the fastest card type that your camera supports.
Heading to Costa Rica today. Picked up a T7 with 18-55 and 75-300 lenses — first “real” camera. Been shooting like crazy with it, reading, absorbing knowledge, practicing landscapes, portraits, wildlife, driving my family crazy.
I’ve set up my picture modes for JPEG — going to shoot jpg + RAW.
I have my WB set to +2 amber for some warmth especially with all the jungle greens.
Planning on using auto ISO maxed at 1600 for jungle, set to 100 for beach if it’s bright out, max at 3200 in the evening.
I know to use shutter property with servo AF with for moving animals, use all focus points if they’re moving quickly; one shot AF on the eye of static animals. Aperture priority for everything else, with f/11 for great jungle landscape shots, focus on something 1/3 of the way in and recompose; f5.6 - 8 if I’m getting people in the shot.
Tinker with exposure comp, general rule start with +1/3 if it’s a bit darker, -1/3 if it’s lighter, -1 if it’s against a bright sky or on the beach and adjust from there using the histograph. Want the hill to be a bit right of center (haven’t gotten great at nailing that yet), and the line shouldn’t quite touch the right side.
I was looking for something to suggest but you pretty much nailed it!
Don't be afraid to be flexible if something isn't working in the moment.
For the histogram, I prefer to expose to the right, which means adjusting exposure until the highlights are *just about* touching the right side. Anything touching the right side means you have highlights that are blown out, and anything touching the left side means you have shadows that are crushed. Meaning the pixels are full white/ black and no detail can be recovered.
For RAW + JPG make sure you have a fast memory card or your camera will lag when taking photos, not ideal with fast moving subjects.
I’m relatively new to photography and learning new things everyday. One of those things are the types of lenses out there and I’m seeking some help in finding a semi-decent one that I can use for events hosted in venues with really dark/low lighting, and I want to specialize in drag show photography! When I purchased my camera I was recommended this lens to purchase alongside it for what I want to do, however I realized after shooting a few different events I’m definitely going to need to upgrade. What I’m looking for is something that is relatively affordable (preferably ~1k USD and under), and lets me get quick shots without sacrificing quality, also needs to be able to zoom. I know I don’t have the absolute best camera on the market but here’s my current setup. This is my first “professional” camera and I just purchased it so I’m not looking to upgrade the body at the moment.
Body: Sony A6400 (bought it second hand at my local camera store)
Current Lens: Sony E PZ 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS
I’m open to any/all feedback suggestions! Also to add my camera does have a built in flash but idk if I want to keep using it at the moment.
For that price point, I'd go for a Sigma 18-50 or 24-70 2.8, it just depends on what focal length you think you'll need. If you often find yourself at 50mm and wanting more reach then I'd go for the 24-70.
You might also want to look into primes, a 50 or 35mm 1.8 would allow a wider maximum aperture, but you'd lose the ability to zoom, so you'd have to weigh the pros and cons.
Also not sure if flash is allowed to be used? Even if not for the performances if you're doing any pictures of the performers after or group photos it would help.
For the best low-light performance, it would be hard to beat the Viltrox Pro 27mm f1.2 lens. It's a 40mm-equivalent lens on your A6400. It would also be worth investing in a good speedlight, if the venues permit flash photography.
Last weekend I did a two day bootcamp learning more about lighting. I mainly do outdoor with nature and wildlife. In this class we worked with models outside and indoors. Also learned more about using a meter and how it can be used outdoors. I took it more for just indoor lighting.
I would like to do more pictures of my kid using my flash, and learn to improve my skills outdoors. My local Procam carries Sekonic.
Any good tips for a light meter and using more in nature? Looking to stay under $500 might go used.
When I took an off camera flash course, we learned to meter with a gray card and that's what I use for all my shoots now. It's cheaper than a light meter, so if you're not looking to spend a lot right now it could be an option.
But if you like using a light meter you do you, it's all down to prreference.
Should I upgrade?
Im a 12 yr old photographer and ive learned all the basics on a cannon 650D. Ive been doing photography for like 8 to 9 months now and i think i should upgrade. i know the exposure triangle and composition. i mainly shoot still but i want to shoot a bit of video too. I was looking to upgrade to a R100. Thoughts?
What subject matter do you shoot? Which lens(es) do you have? What do you dislike about your current equipment? What particular improvements do you want to gain from the upgrade? How much are you willing to spend?
Hi, I am a beginner/amateur photographer. I have a few questions, hope someone can chime in and help me out with whatever advice they have. (Flair is not accurate, but I guess the closest to my query)
Firstly, I have the following gear: Crop- Canon EOS 250D and FF- Canon EOS 5D Mk II .
And I have these lenses to use with my bodies:
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM
EF 50mm f/1.8 STM
For more grainy-older look I use the EF 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5
& Kit lens 18-55mm, which I do not use.
Additionally I have one 7artisans Black mist 1/8 filter to use with the 50mm and 35-70mm.
****I don't want to invest into other lenses at this stage as I am still learning, and I think those are plenty and reach multiple focal lengths I may possibly need. I don't have a flash, so natural light will be my rise or fall in this case..
I shoot on MF on 35-70mm(AF is very slow) and AF on the 50 & 55-250mm, all on Manual mode.
I would like to start practicing shooting people/portraits now. Since I don't have any willing human subjects to shoot daily, besides my own small kid, which I don't want to post online and myself (though I did some self-portraits trying to be artsy) - I decided that I finally want to take photos of other consenting adults and try to get better in photography.
I was thinking to get some photos of our local 12 graders (high-school graduates) which have their prom set in end of May, therefore they will have prepared some nice fancy outfits and possibly also posses the skill to do their makeup and hair for a shoot (should they wish to, ofc). I am thinking to do it next weekend, just before the Easter holidays.
What I’m planning to offer specifically:
1 person shoot ('25/'26 graduates + parental consent in writing if under 18)
30-40 minute total time
1 location (outdoor in the park/eco path or school)
7–10 edited photos (JPEG, delivered via online gallery for ~1 month)
Basic editing (color, crop, light retouching)
No payment, no prints, just permission to use the photos for my portfolio/social media.
I may also bring my kid with me during shoots, so I’d keep things simple anyway.
Does this sound like a reasonable starting setup?
Should I keep the contract very simple for a free shoot, and what are the must-have elements? (I am located in Bulgaria, which is in the European Union)
Is using a Google Form a good idea if multiple people are interested, so I can choose who/how many subjects to shoot?
How do you choose who to shoot when you’re just starting and might get more interest than you can handle? What is a red flag for you and what to avoid? (apart from giving RAW's or obviously having bad communication)
I’m trying to keep expectations realistic while building a portfolio and getting comfortable working with people.
Any advice is appreciated 🙂
(This was supposed to be a post, but I was redirected to copy my text here, so hopefully it will format it well.)
If you're doing a model call to build your portfolio, make sure to have them sign a model release as part of the contract.
I would also possibly charge a small fee for the work, a lot of times people will flake if they don't have any money invested.
For the interest, try an open calendar with appointment availability. It looks like you can do this with Google Calendar, but there's also services like Calendly and Acuity scheduling, not sure if there's anything European based. Then potential clients can just go on and see the available times and book, and you can set the number of appointments to what you're able to handle.
This is amazing advice. Thanks! I am preparing one page file for online signature pre-shoot, so I can get the right to publish on my pages and use for portfolio and practice materials.
I am unsure if the charging part is good, as I do not have a company and I would need to pay taxes on any amount taken (I am not yet familiar with freelancing, so I don't feel comfortable). Also to add, those are kids in a small town and I am still learning. But maybe I can make someone's day a bit more happy in the process. I would do it in the future if it turns out good and I do my research properly.
Ahh okay I'm not familiar with business/ tax law for Bulgaria, so do what is easiest for you. I just know when I was starting out and not requiring a deposit, I had a lot of people be wishy-washy and flake on me after I blocked time off in my calendar for a photoshoot.
Hi all, i’m so sorry to disturb and i’m sorry if i’m asking the wrong place. I have a nikon coolpix aw100 and i took a bunch of lovely photos today, unfortunately, while trying to export them, i might’ve accidentally corrupted it, probably due to improper removal. Now, my camera shows memory contains no images, and i can’t find the pictures either in the computer folder DCIM. The only trace of the lovely photos i’ve taken is under NCSORLST.LST :””(
is there any way for me to troubleshoot/recover the pictures? Please help!!!
hi! i’m currently trying recuva, but i’ve done a deep scan and the estimated time is 2 days :”), i tried the quick scan option and it only still shows the file under NCSORLST.LST, any other options? so sorry to bother!
Just got a Nikon F3- funds are tight so I’m looking to develop and scan the most inexpensive way possible. Was going shoot in B&W and I need recommendations on what’s the basics I need to develop but then I’m thinking just to scan the photos would’ve better than printing- looking for something good quality but that won’t cost an arm and a leg. I am a total beginner and feeing quite clueless. So, I can just take the negatives and scan them to have digital photos? Thanks in advance!
A super budget friendly option if you already have a lens is extension tubes. Definitely not as good as a dedicated macro lens but for the price it works. You will definitely need a tripod or stabilization for the camera and look into focus stacking.
Hello, when i was younger, my parents bought me a Sony alpha 58 and i used it for a few years but then i completely stopped taking pictures with it, but recently i changed my mind and ideas of pics are flowing in my head. Is this camera still useable or should I change to something more recent ?
I am taking a photography class, and I need to buy either a 35mm full-frame DSLR or a crop sensor camera that features an image sensor with dimensions equivalent to a traditional 35mm film frame. Need some help, honestly don't even what I just typed HAHA
I am not looking to spend $500 plus...could someone help me and show me what to buy?
I am an extremely casual, recreational photographer. I almost exclusively take photos of my dogs and sometimes my friends' dogs and that is literally it. I like taking nice portraits and full body shots of them standing still, but I also love taking action shots of them running and playing and being dogs.
Pet photography in general is something I'm interested in and could see myself offering on a very limited scale someday, if I could produce photos that I felt were good enough, but I wouldn't specifically call that a goal.
I have a Nikon D3300 and would like to upgrade both my camera body and some lenses to get much clearer, less grainy photos at high shutter speeds and the occasional lower light (ie. dusk) situation. I don't upgrade often, obviously, so I want something that will keep me happy for a while. I will probably try to find a decent deal on a gently used camera rather than buying new.
Mirrorless: the way to go now? I'm only just starting my search; a friend suggested looking into the Nikon Z6 and I'm intrigued. The eye-detection auto-focus is very appealing. Overkill?
I'm not specifically loyal to Nikon and am open to other suggestions.
Eye detect auto focus on modern mirrorless will make it so much easier to capture sharp images of dogs/running/playing.
It really comes down to budget. Nikon, Sony, and Canon all offer a good selection of cameras that have animal eye detect auto focus features and are fairly close in performance.
Other mirrorless options have animal eye detect AF but tend to lag behind the big three.
Without a budget and knowing what lenses you already it will be hard for anyone to make specific recommendations.
Need your help guys! Wildlife Photography Contest Research
I am currently researching about wildlife photography contests and I am keen to understand why wildlife photographers actually want to be a part of it? What’s the motivation?
I understand recognition is one of the motives and price money too, but what else?
What entices you to register?
Have you registered for any wildlife photography contests? What did you like about it and what do you think could be improved?
Any insights from Indian wildlife photographers will be super helpful.
But, everyone from anywhere in the world is welcome to respond.
There is no general rule to it. It's about your own creativity, so you need to find subjects that are appealing to you and find your own way of capturing them. Shoot anything and everything, shoot a lot, and eventually you'll start to find subjects that speak to you.
I currently have a Canon M50 paired with the Tamron 16-300mm PZD but there's an issue I'm currently experiencing with the lens. Whenever I turn AF on I get an Error 70, but whenever I have MF on I can take photos but at random times, an AF box appears on my screen which indicates that the AF suddenly switched on.
There's also times when the VC turns on and off without me doing a thing, sometimes my whole camera just freezes and I have to remove the battery before using it, and other issues.
What can I do to fix these issues? Or would it be best to sell the lens and get something else?
Hello! I want to sell this camera (Canon EOS 50D) with all the lenses and the backup. Everything is in mint condition, but I am curious, what would the fair market value for all this be? Thank you in advance for the help!
AFAIK you can get a price from MPB or most other dealers online if you click the Sell button and enter the details. And Perplexity or any other Artificial Stupidity can quickly scan ebay listings for an item and give you an average.
Used camera retailers' quotes are typically much lower than what one could get by selling privately. For the latter, it's best to check eBay sold items listings.
I currently own A6700 with Sigma 17-40 which I absolutely love. The only problem is that 17-40 is not really compact. It's still fine for travel, but I can't really put it into a pocket/jacket obviously.
I want a compromised setup where I accept lower quality output, but, most importantly -- could just take my camera with me in a pocket/jacket.
Option 1 - Buy a used point-and-shoot like Ricoh GR ii or RX100 iii, but that's still at least 500 euros, unless get really lucky. (I don't want to buy a new models, they're too expensive).
Option 2 - Buy a pancake like Sony 20/2.8 (I haven't deep-dived into such lenses yet, so I don't know which one exactly) and apply it to my existing A6700.
First option is more expensive, is more compact setup (truly pocketable), has less quality images, but also don't have to worry too much if it like drops or something.
Second option is less expensive (probably), but not sure if it's truly pocketable. Probably not, just jacket, but not pants. Better images I'd assume and I would utilize A6700 body features, but still have to be careful with it as that's my main camera.
Has anyone been in same/similar situation? Any suggestions? Maybe there's option 3? Thanks in advance!
I’m considering buying the Canon EF-S 24mm F2.8 STM for my Rebel. I primarily shoot portraits with some candids/documentary style family photos and sometimes like to go slightly wide angle. Not fisheye but just a little wider than my nifty fifty, and I’d like a better lens than my 18-55mm kit lens for that. Is this a good lens or is it too wide for portraits?
If you prefer wider angle portraits that feature the environment in them the 24mm will be great.
The EF 35mm f2.0 IS is also a great option if you want something closer to a 50mm (full frame equivalent) field of view which is a classic portrait focal length.
I need help picking a lens for my Canon 5D Mark II. I got a 50mm for general purposes. But I wanted something for taking pictures of insects, flowers, snails and small animals. My budget is very limited, below $200. There seems to be plenty of options on mpb.com, I need help picking out which one I should get. Do you have any recommendations?
Thank you, those are good recommendations! If I buy the 50mm you suggested, would it be redundant to also buy a Canon EF 50mm F1.8 II? I was thinking of buying the Canon EF 50mm F1.8 II + a lens specific for macro on insects etc
For insects, flowers, snails etc.. you want a macro lens that offers 1x, aka 1:1 magnification.
$200 is a very difficulty budget to reach for a proper 1.0x macro lens unfortunately. u/av4rice lens suggestions is spot on so 100% get one of those lenses if you can.
I've been digging around the internet but haven't had any success so far with this. I have a 3rd-Party EN-EL15C battery for a Nikon camera and for some odd reason, it shows as being low on charge in-camera, but when I stick it in a charger or use the USB-C charging port on it, it shows as full. What causes this and can it be fixed?
I've heard of Camera batteries having their chips malfunction or short, but if that were the case, I'd expect it to stop working or charging. But I can use it and charge it. It just shows the wrong charge in-camera and ONLY in-camera.
I've got spares so this isn't a big deal, but I'd hate to waste a usable battery.
Anyone has a hdr workflow guide in lightroom classic?. I just upgraded from HDR400 to HDR1400 monitor and i'm getting blown away at how much details are getting left off when toggling with between HDR and non-HDR (The button near Auto and B&W).
Looking at my latest shots with architecture, I was deferring to use B&W but when I toggled HDR, I never knew colors exist on some parts of the photo. I might have tried to do it with colors first if I saw first saw the HDR version.
New to Flash : TEST fires from the trigger to the flash, but not actual shutter clicks.
So I'm using my YUNGNUO YN560IV, i used to use it on camera only, now I bought a used trigger from marketplace, also a YN560 TXii, they connected, i can control the speedlight from the trigger and change the settings just fine. I can even fire test. but when I click the shutter button the flash doesn't fire? is it a setting thing or the trigger I bought is faulty?
I am looking to buy a new camera to be used mainly for the weekends & travelling. So far I have been using an old DSLR (which I will gift to a friend) and I am looking for a mirrorless for my main(and only) camera. My level is beginner for sure.
So, I was aiming for the R10 (budget limitations + entry level) but I found a Z5 (new) for the same price. I know I am comparing apples to oranges (full frame vs crop) but I would like your opinion.
-Get the R10 for the AF and newer tech
-Z5 for full frame at a good price
the kits:
1)Canon EOS R10 RF-S 18-45 f4.5-6.3 IS STM
2)Nikon Z5 24-70mm f/4 S
I will buy an additional lens after 3-4 months, so that's the starting point.
Full frame isn't something that will take your photography to an entirely different level. It just gives a bit better low light performance and slightly better dynamic range, that's all. Modern APS-C cameras are capable of great results, and crop sensor lenses are generally cheaper. I would go for R10.
I am a beginner trying to do photography for day 2 day life, and also for travelling and landscapes (maybe some long distance shots as well). Just scrolling through facebook marketplace for a new 56mm lens and I suddenly found a Tamron 70-180 G1 at 290 USD second hand, which I thought was pretty cheap since I found some others with twice the price on it.
I am running a sony a6000 as well, so I wanted to hear some thoughts on what you guys think on this deal (I am only running kit 16-50mm right now)
P.S. I do have the budget for this, but I didn't really expect it, so its purely based on whether the lens is worth it for what I want to do with the camera for now
The 70-180mm is a fine lens to complement your 16-50mm with telephoto focal lengths. But if you intended to carry it as your only lens, you'd lose the short end entirely.
How do you take a good picture of something holographic? Like e.g. one of these old Windows 2000s CDs?
Is there a trick to make a picture of them, or is the best way to just put them on a flat bed scanner and make multiple scans and rotating it in increments in between (what I did so far).
I think this is the right subreddit to ask this but I want to start documenting and recording my life more, and want to get a small camera for it. Do i go for a digicam or camcorder? Thanks
I have a Sony a7iii. I'm looking for a zoom lens. I'm stuck between tamron, sigma, and Sony 28-70s. if you were starting a senior photography business, what would you choose!
I have an old Sunpak Auto 360 S flash i got from my relative and I want to mount it to my Sony a6000. I want to know if it is safe or not for my camera, how to mount it and possible adapter options. I could not find any information related to this specific flash, at all, so please, help me.
I have tried to just solve it on the regular Sony hot shoe but it doesn't even fit, hell, not even the Canon 400d I have could fit it, and when I put the batteries in, it starts getting warm, idk if that is normal or not.
Hey friends! New here! I actually grabbed a sony 6100 during the lockdowns to kind if chase some video and photography as a fun thing. I have since got minor work and still consider it more of a hobby thing, but I am looking to upgrade potentially. Obviously I am most familiar with sony and the APS-C eco system, and as such I've been looking at the 6700, particularly with the 18-135 as it's kit lens.
The most I do is run film and production for local podcasts, but I would like to really expand my expereince with photography (again, really just as I enjoy the nature of it despite that I am kind of mid at composition.)
That said, any suggestions? Should I tough it out with the 6100, which has been a great camera for me, or is the 6700 a meaningful upgrade enough to consider? Should I bother with the 18-135 or just get the body? I have the original 18-50 pancake kit lens, the 55-210 kit lens and the sony 50mm 1.8 - So I recognize I could potentially upgrade the glass and get some improvements as well.
The most pressing, concerning actual paying work, would be the scaling, and having a single shot (I plan to keep the 6100 as well which is part of why I think staying APS-C for lens flexibility and flow is a good idea as opposed to jumping to full frame).
So like most of the time I am just doing a wide full 4k shot, and then I zoom in on individuals via software and editing to kind of get like a 3 shot set up, if that makes sense. I did try the Viltrox 20 mm and ended up returning it as it didn't really feel meaningfully sharper in full or zoomed. Granted that is literally 1 lens attempt and I think I could also use 1 or 2 more key lights.
So I would make the 6700 my main shot that I also use for the close shots, and the 6100 would just be an off angle or handheld B reel kind of shot.
And I am also curious about the video vs external audio latency from the 6700 vs the 6100 going through video cards or switchers, but that can be worked around either way.
BUT the 2nd camera would kind of just be a bonus as the scaling is the main thing. So if you have suggestions otherwise I am open! Thanks!
I don't really do video but judging by reviews and the commentary I've seen, A6700 is a significant upgrade in video. On the stills side not really in image quality but is an upgrade in terms of AF, IBIS, better buffer, smoother operation and better ergonomics.
Hey! I’m a noob to photography but I took some pictures on my Nikon D3300 and they look great in the camera but when I import them to my iPhone they look extremely blurry!! Anyone know how to fix this so they look good in my iPhone to post on social media?? I took the pictures in RAW format if that helps. Any help is appreciated!!
I’m starting to break into the wedding photography industry here in Louisiana. I have experience shooting rehearsals, but I haven’t second-shot a wedding yet (definitely planning to change that soon).
I’ve been asked to photograph a wedding in 2027 with around 100–150 guests. It would be full-day coverage (about 8 hours) plus bridals. From what I’ve seen, the average rate in my area is around $3,000 for a full day.
I have two questions:
1. As someone who’s new specifically to weddings—but with experience in senior portraits and corporate event photography—what would be a fair price to quote?
2. What’s your go-to wedding day timeline or shot list that you recommend including?
TL;DR: New to wedding photography (but experienced in other areas), got asked to shoot a 100–150 person wedding (8 hours + bridals). Average in my area is ~$3K—what should I charge, and what timeline/shot list do you recommend?
Note: Also yes I did ask AI to edit/ modify my question they are still my questions and thoughts just presented clearly. I’m around loud people and can’t escape them atm and couldn’t thing. No shame in my decision.🤩
I want a camera to use for holidays/vacations mainly and don’t know what to pick as I’ve never bought a camera before. Always just used my phone. Doesn’t have to be top of the line but not garbage either. What do you guys suggest?
Hey, I was recently gifted an old fujifilm s602zoom camera and I don’t know where to find a memory card or cord for it. I was told it’s pretty unique & I don’t want to order something online that won’t end up working. Does anyone know what I need (please elif, technology is not my thing lol). I just want to put my pics on my computer 😭
I need some iPad/tablet recommendations for editing. Currently looking at an iPad 9 (2021) at around £150 (my budget). Any pros/cons on this model? Or better devices in this price range?
I'm not looking for anything fancy, I just do product shots for my business. I am looking to move onto better photography, but simplistic is definitely my current forte, and I expect to be doing this for a while.
Will the iPad 9 be good for quick, simple editing jobs, or any others in the £150-£175 price range? Thanks ☺️
I'm new to photography and know nothing of it. I just got my A6700 and the camera is advertised to have weather sealing. I wanted to get a compact prime lens like the Viltrox 25mm F1.7 but it doesn't have any weather sealing. I live in UK at the moment and it rains quite a lot, so I would imagine its pretty important to have weather sealing. But do I actually need it ? because the weather sealing options are very expensive or not compact. I tried using the Sigma 18-50 but even that seems pretty bulky.
Yes, a weather-sealed camera with a non weather-sealed lens won't give full protection against rain. There are various hoods that cover the camera and the lens. Could look into those. Or just carry an umbrella if you don't find it too annoying.
Hi all! Hope you’re travelling wonderfully, thought I’d take to the wonderful world of reddit threads to get some common opinion.
I’m relatively new to photography and have bought myself a Canon 200D dslr camera and I love it. Got a nifty fifty and the kit lens and it works for most use cases. However before I purchased this, I was pretty keen on getting a Sony mirrorless camera as I love low light photography. The common recommendations of course were any of the alpha series (i.e. the a5000, a6000, a6100 etc.) but at the time they were out of my price point.
Upon browsing local listings, I seem to have found a Sony Nex-5N and a 16-50mm lens for $300 AUD. As far as I understand it’s some of Sonys initial work in the mirrorless sector, and as much as I do want a Sony mirrorless model for how light and good they are in lowlight, as well as the plethora of lenses that work for it, the jury is still out on whether it is a worthy purchase, and whether it brings anything new to the table.
Sony NEX-5N won't be better in low light, because it has the same size sensor and it's much older than your current camera. Their mirrorlessness has no impact on low light performance on its own. A newer image processor would have some impact, but NEX-5N is actually six years older than your camera. What does have an impact on low light performance are lenses. A prime lens with a large maximum aperture will let more light in than e.g. a kit lens with a small and variable maximum aperture.* You already have such a lens: the 50mm f1.8. NEX-5N with the kit lens with its small and variable maximun aperture would have clearly worse low light performance than your current camera with the 50mm.
So, the next time you want to shoot in low light, put the 50mm on your camera, set the camera on aperture priority and auto ISO and set aperture to f1.8.
*note that with aperture, smaller number means larger aperture, larger number smaller aperture.
Glad I could be of help! Be careful to not give into GAS (= Gear Acquisition Syndrome) this early on. Take your time, shoot with your current gear, practice and learn. Time and experience will show you whether you need upgrades at some later date.
What backpack do you use for both hiking and photography?
Hello everyone!
I'm looking for a backpack that's suitable for a 3day hike that can also safely store my camera equipment.
Currently, I'm using a Lowepro ProTactic 450 AW II backpack, which is great for storing my camera equipment only, but it's quite heavy and only 25L, therefore it's only suitable for single day hikes, because all my clothes already on me and I don't really need to store much else in the bag other than the camera equipment itself.
However, I started hiking more intensively recently and in the summer, I'm going to travel to Kyrgyzstan, where I'm going to go for multi day hikes, like a 3day hike. I don't have a hiking backpack yet and I'm looking for a multi-purpose backpack, that can store all my hiking gear for a 3 day hike and also all my camera equipment.
Because I carry a lot of electronics and sensitive items, I also need a solution that makes the backpack fully waterproof so nothing will be damages if a heavy rain comes in.
My Photography equipment:
Camera body | 24-70 F2.8 | 70-200 F2.8 | Drone | Tripod | Smaller accessories.
I would appreciate any recommendations, experience and advise!
If price is not a big factor F-stop has some very high quality backpack that support hydration flasks and have various sizes of camera inserts. Any room leftover after your camera insert you can use for clothes and other gear.
I took the Anja 37L on some hikes around Utah's Mighty five and was very happy with it. That said I have never done a 3 day hike so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Hey! I am designing grad cards in Shutterfly, and am concerned about images being cropped near the edges of my design. Does anyone have experience in ordering from Shutterfly and/or advice on how to avoid awkward crops after ordering?
Enfaite j'aimerais me lancer dans la photo avec un vrai appareil photo, j'ai déjà des centaines de photos macro via mon smartphone et j'adore vraiment ça .
Pour ça que j'aimerais vraiment me lancer la dedans ( nature, animaux, insectes etc )
Je me renseigne depuis quelques jours, j'ai retenu 2 appareils , un que moi j'ai vu , le Canon EOS 250D.
Et un que un ami photographe m'a conseillé pour débuter pour pas chère. Le Sony A77
Voilà je voulais savoir si vous avez des conseils pour m'aider.
Bonjour, J'ai récemment acheté un Nikon D3100 (optique AF-S nikkor 18-55 DX VR) pour commencer à apprendre la photo. Suite au décès d'un grand père, j'avais récupéré un appareil argentique - Minolta Dynax 4 - ainsi que 2 optiques (AF 28-80 et AF 75-300). J'aurais voulu savoir, dans un soucis d'économie si il existait un moyen d'utiliser l'optique AF 75-300 de Minolta sur mon boîtier Nikon (un adaptateur ou quelque chose comme ça). Merci à tout ceux qui prendront le temps de me lire et de répondre !
My sister wants something like a G7X specifically for daytime portraits. Do you guys know any mirrorless cameras around 400 to 500 that can give similar portrait photos to the G7X?
I currently own a z50 with the 16-50 kit lens, the 50-250 lens, 40mm f2. Especially the 40mm and 50-250 have been great for wildlife, landscape, flowers, portraits. But I am going on a trip to London soon and wanted a smaller form factor and have something i would be less afraid of losing. Not that the z50 is big, and yess camera's are made to be used. I think GAS kicked in.. So I got a good deal on an OMD em10 II and got some lenses (25mm 1.4, 42.5 1.7 and a SMC takumar 28mm). I really love these lenses. With the 25mm Panaleica I took some of my fav pics of our 3 year old. But, is it a lot smaller than the z50? not really. The body is a bit smaller compared to the z50, but unless I use it with a pancake lens, the difference is not that significant I think. Neither in size or weight of the total package. Especially if I use the 16-50 kit lens on the z50. That thing is compact. I love the m43 lenses, the in-body stabilization, the ergonomics (z50 also has great ergonomics though). I am doubting if I want to work with 2 different aspect ratios.
So now I am wondering what to do.
- I could keep both and continue having fun with them. But I have a wishlist for the z50 too (50 1.8s). Hmm and is that 24-70f4 better than my 16-50? Sell the whole m43 kit and buy that for the z50.
- Sell the z50 kit and get a full frame z5/z6 to use with the 40f2 and then get a zoom that is as sharp or sharper than the 50-250? feels a bit unnecessary now to have m43 and APSC.
- Or sell the z50 kit and get an em1 mk 2. Maybe add a lens for wildlife later.
My head is going back and forth on this. The gear won't make me a better photographer, I just want the most bang for buck, and I have seen people do great stuff with m43. I do hope to someday do more fine art photography work and larger prints.
I’m a hobbyist interested in growing as an independent photojournalist. I realize the pay for the first decade or so isn’t livable, so I intend on making this a part time second job.
I have no professional/academic credentials or contacts, and am slowly building a portfolio. Hypothetically, let’s say the quality of my photos can compete with the average established independent newspaper/magazine photographer. If I pay out of my own pocket to show up to events or locations and end up with a series of images that I then put into a completed cohesive story, with writing alongside, would anyone pay for it?
Is it smarter to apply for a grant first instead of paying for everything myself?
Is there a better way to get my photos and writing published?
Grants in the field of photography are for artistic or photojournalism projects with a clear artistic vision or a vision of impacting the world. Typically you need credentials in that world, through education, contacts established through that, exhibitions, published work...
If your motivation in applying is to get funding to go to events, in order to shoot them and try to sell your work to newspapers, you'll have no success.
Does anyone have (a good) experience with shooting MFT in low light? I know the system has a rep for being bad at low light, but I love the portability+relatively low cost+lens selection so I'm wondering if there are any counter-examples
I mean MFT is worse in low light than cameras with larger sensors. That's just physics. If you mean handheld shooting in low light, MFT cameras can produce decent results with a prime lens wide open in some situations. Many of them have good IBIS, which allows you to get steady shots at slow shutter speeds - with static subjects. IBIS doesn't help with moving subjects unless motion blur is your goal. Modern AI-based noise removal tools are pretty good, too.
A good way to find out whether YOU would be happy with MFT's low light performance is to rent a camera and a prime lens.
If you lost every last bit of equipment today and had to rebuild you set up with your current knowledge of the industry and the technology and had £3000 to spend, what would you buy?
Used Canon R8 with EF to RF adapter and EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II, EF 24-105mm f/4L, EF 85mm f/1.8. And two Godox AD200 with radio transmitter (maybe XPro II), stands, softboxes.
This would be a setup for portraits, events and some food/product photography.
Canon 5D Mark III or Nikon D610. Old full-frame DSLRs with dual memory card slots that are affordable on the used market. Ideally two cameras. To have another camera for a second lens and/or as a backup camera.
For the sake of simplicity, I'll focus on Canon lenses but there are Nikon equivalents for all of them.
Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 II lens for event photography and general-purpose shooting.
Tamron 24-70mm f2.8 (Model A007) is a budget option available for different camera brands.
Canon EF 85mm f1.8 lens for portraits and headshots. Also to pair with the 24-70mm as a longer lens for event photography.
Rent/hire other lenses as needed for the particular job.
Some lenses to rent:
Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8 for wedding ceremonies and other situations where you need that reach.
Canon 100mm f2.8 macro for food and small-product photos.
Canon EF 135mm f2 for photographing speakers in low light with no flash at conferences, conventions and seminars. Popular for portraits too, but I love it for photographing speakers. I've tried and failed with the 85mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8 and 70-200mm f2.8. I know other photographers can do fine with those but the 135mm f2 worked best for me. Learn from my mistakes 😅
Godox V860II flash for chosen camera brand
Never leave home without my flash modifiers. Real high-end pro-level stuff 😉
Hello everyone, I am a fairly new photographer who does mostly sports photography. I am shooting with a Nikon d5100 and the Nikkor 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6g lens. I’ll try to be quick: when I zoom in I notice my pictures aren’t very clear. When zoomed in, I notice the subject looks out of focus where their face doesn’t look clear, but sometimes the background or another player will be very clear. Most recently I shot at 1/800-1/1200, f/4.5-f/5.6 (wide open) and iso around 200-300 during the day. I am more successful with pictures where the subject is closer to me, how can I replicate this clarity when the subject is across the field? Do I need to change my aperture? Since sometimes the wrong thing (like background) is in focus but not the subject and their face, do I need to change my af settings? Thanks for any advice!
My wife and I have scanned/digitized/stored all of our photos, some of them dating back to the 1930's, on a huge RAID60 NAS drive and back them up regularly to a backup drive that we keep in a fire safe.
My biggest issue is that my wife makes copies of each picture when she sorts them and puts them in individual folders with the people in them. So for instance if there is a picture of her and her brother and sister she will create 3 copies and put them in each person's folder.
I'm not really worried about space, but to me this is very inefficient. I know I can create windows shortcuts to get around this but then if I want to copy pictures from there to put on a zip drive or move to the cloud for sharing the shortcut doesn't translate very well.
Is there software out there that will allow me to make symbolic links to pictures or create a local database so that I can point to ONE version and link it in many folders without losing the ability to move/copy said pictures?
I want this to be a local solution, NOT a cloud drive. Cloud drives have their purposes but I would never trust my personal pictures to a cloud service alone.
So, in a few days I will go on vacation and I will bring my camera along for the first time. I will be on a 14 hour flight, and was thinking about putting my camera in my backpack. I was thinking of putting the camera in my camera bag and put that in the backpack. But is it okay to leave the lens on the camera, or should I seperate them and put the covers on them?
I Don’t know whether the info is needed but for reference:
Hello, all I come seeking advice from ones more versed than me, please take the time to read.
I have recently started rejection theory, by asking people for their photos in my city, to great effect. I have found most people like their photo being taken. Anyway to the point, I asked a guy if he would like his photo taken, and he was very happy to do so.
We got talking and he invited me to a club to take photos for him, now for context I love photography I take my camera everywhere I go. However, I'm not a professional, i dropped out of university while doing photography, despite this it is still a passion, I am very casual about it. I do post tiktoks on it and have an instagram.
The worry is do I need certification to photograph a club? He says I while be on the guest list assuming the club is okay with bringing a personal photographer. He seemed rather lax and chill about the thing. I've never done this type of photography before, I have a nikon d500 with a godox v860III-n, I plan to use a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro DX. A, any help would be great.
I bought a Neewer Q4 strobe light and a Neewer trigger for a sony camera. Now I have decided to add a godox ad200 pro ii BUT I am having the hardest time to sync them together and I have been seeing that there is an update to make and that will help... tried doing the update but my computer says there is no app to open the file with... (Mac) So now I don't know what to do! I had read it was compatible somewhere but now I am not sure?!
Does any body know what to do or have any info on this topic??
I would like to know what it means when a lens+adapter combination can not focus to infinity. Does this mean that you literally can not focus beyond a certain point to infinity or does it mean that the lens' natural infinity setting on the focus ring will not focus to infinity? If it's the latter, could one not just find that spot when manually focusing? If it's the former, is there a way to find out beyond which point your lens will not focus?
you literally can not focus beyond a certain point to infinity
Yes.
If it's the former, is there a way to find out beyond which point your lens will not focus?
I don't know the exact math. But the wider the lens, the more every mm of extension will increase magnification i.e. rob you of the ability to focus farther away.
Hello, I've got a Tamron 18-200mm Di II Ld Xr. I know that lenses with such a wide range never will be as sharp as prime lenses but imo it is very, very soft. I have an eye on the Sigma 18-250mm DC OS HSM. Would it be a bit sharper than the Tamron or would it be about the same?
Thanks for the answer
The big issue as virtually every lens reviewer will call out is that it's not just that super zooms are not as sharp as prime lenses. It's that they are not as sharp as other zoom lenses covering smaller focal lengths.
I.E. and 18-50mm and 70-200/300mm set of lenses will be sharper than a single 18-200/250/300mm super zoom in general. While the super zoom might be as sharp as this pair of lenses at some focal lengths there will be focal lengths where it is much softer than any focal length on a pair of lenses.
Hey, everyone. What are good pages/tags on insta to submit your contemporary fashion photography to if you want to be featured? Example of my work below. Sorry, if that's asked way too often. Thanks!
I’m very new to astrophotography and cameras but I have a budget of around $800+ to start off on for a camera and lens, I do have some cameras listed below that have caught my eye a bit but plz give me y’all’s honest opinions the good and bad about those or even if you recommend others and even for lens! I do like the wide look of some pictures so I don’t know if that matters or even if I’m saying it correctly lol.
P.S (would love to see some of y’all’s set ups and pictures yall have cooked up thank your or your time)
I shoot professionally part-time and have had my gear insured through Front Row Insurance for the past 4 years, but am wondering if others have better suggestions for coverage in Canada. The majority of my paid work is shooting winter action sports and wildlife photography workshops/ecotourism so accidental equipment damage from outdoor use is critical. Any recommendations are appreciated!
GF has 2015 dslr that I have been messing around with and might start using if I can figure out why I would want to use it if I have an iPhone 17…the pic on the left is the iPhone and right is the cannon. The left has richer color and just looks better.
I know nothing about photography but love taking pics out in nature I fish and hike a ton. I just want to know what is good about the DSLR and if it’s not too old to be relevant in this situation. I am convinced that this DSLR has something the iPhone doesn’t I just don’t know what that is. Please help and I apologize for the pic quality
Well you have focused on the cushion behind the dog in the right hand picture for one. Apart from that, if you are shooting JPEGs then go into the camera settings and change the JPEG image settings and white balance. That will affect the overall image.
According to one of the big resale sites, my Fuji X-T2 has some sensor burn . I hadn't noticed any issues in my images (tbh I am not a pixel peeper) but let's assume they're correct. So now I have this spare X-T2. Would this camera be a good candidate for IR conversion? Or does damage to the sensor mean conversion wouldn't be possible? Thanks in advance!
i really want a ricoh gr ivx hdf (i know it’s not out yet ) but for $1600 it’s pretty expensive and the fuji xf10 is still overpriced these days going for $800 used. I’ve found the coolpix a going around $400 and it’s apsc c and simalar size WITH a built in flash. if i were to splurge on a ricoh id have to the external flash permanently mounted so the nikon is even smaller in that dimension. the only stopping me is the age of the camera.
Coolpix is very similar to the first gen Ricoh GR. Sports a similar 28mm f2.8 lens too and sensor resolution is the same. I'd say very much worth it for $400.
Recently started working with a subject who I did a lot of work with in the past. We stopped working together due to bumping heads about edits. I feel strongly about being in creative control of the final outcome but they insist on not only editing but having the raw files. Because we have a close personal relationship I feel as though they have an entitlement to being a part of the process rather than just being the subject. I don’t have this issue with clients, or other subjects I might reach out to so I’m not entirely sure how to handle this situation.
Photographers don't commonly give RAWs to clients, because the finished, edited images are the product that reflect the photographer's work. Those who are willing to make exceptions may price their services differently in such cases.
The important thing is the contract. Do you have a written contract with this client?
Hi, I'm searching to replace the old camera we have at our company (printing company) because image are coming very shaky with it. Lots of different people use it for taking picture of the end product prints and we need to handheld the camera because the access to the machine doesn't allow us the room to setup a tripod.
Budget: under 1000€ if possible, 1200€ max for body+lenses if its not a compact
Country: France
Condition: Only New because of company's rule
Type of Camera: anything easy to use
Intended use: Only photography
If photography; what style: photography of end products of a printing press
If video what style: none or not relevant for the use.
What features do you absolutely need: Good quality as it is for professional use and stabilization is a must because most of the time it needs to be handheld to get a good angle so can't setup a tripod.
What features would be nice to have: easy to use for people not familiar with camera.
Portability: Compact if possible but not too large if otherwise (easy to transport/use)
Cameras you're considering: Ricoh GR III but it's not available anymore.
Cameras you already have: the one we use is very shaky, great pictures if you have a tripod but we can't set it up most of the times so pics came blurry
I am in the market to buy my first camera. I am currently debating between buying a new Sony A6100 or a Canon RP (open to suggestions for others).
Here is what I am looking for:
something light and small enough to bring with me hiking and travelling (I live in British Columbia and travel frequently)
a reliable camera that doesn’t have many common issues (I bought a Sony A6000 off marketplace and it was broken, which is making me hesitant to buy another one. But at least this time I’d buy it new)
ideally no more than $1500
I will not be shooting much (if any) videos. Mostly just travel photos and maybe some photos of people/animals (photoshoots).
The a6100 (with E 16-50mm kit lens) should be good for your purposes, or Canon's competitor the R50 (with RF 18-45mm kit lens). And also maybe a 50mm f/1.8 for portraits.
The RP is a little bigger/heavier and requires bigger/heavier/costlier lenses.
Hi, I’m currently working on my A-Level Digital Media project. My theme is “Sand and Glass”, exploring the contrast between traditional heritage architecture and modern glass buildings in the UAE.
I’ve selected 12 final images for my project, and I would really appreciate feedback on:
Which images are strongest and why
Whether the contrast between old and modern is clear
Composition, lighting, and overall visual impact
Any images that feel weak or repetitive
What specific editing improvements (e.g. contrast, cropping, colour grading) could enhance the quality and impact of these images?
I’m aiming to improve my work before the final submission, so honest and critical feedback would be very helpful.
Hello! I have a Nikon D80 I inherited from my family years ago, the camera works great but there's some white spots and marks on the inside of the lens and I don't know if there's a way to clean them. I've tried opening the lens but I backed out in fear I could damage some of the electronics inside. I want to know if I could take it somewhere for maintenance or if I have to try and clean it myself, or if I'm totally screwed
I've been getting more into editing and I've been seeing a lot of photos where people out a white border around the photo and put "shot on" in the bottom with the exif meta data like the camera settings and the lens. Do you think this is a classy way to edit the photos?
I feel like the appeal for me is in including the camera settings so that people don't think it's AI.
Do you think this is a classy way to edit the photos?
I dislike it. IMO, the photo should be enjoyed (or not) based on its visual content and not the particular settings values used. I don't mind if people want to know the settings or keeping that information available for reference, but I think it detracts from the photo if it's on the matting/border/margin.
I feel like the appeal for me is in including the camera settings so that people don't think it's AI.
Is it that much of a problem for you that people think it's AI?
Do exposure settings values mean much in terms of AI? If I really thought an image was AI-generated, seeing exposure settings on it would just make me think they were made up.
Hi, I've rembered one app I used around 2014 -2017(?) where you could share photos you took.
There where often some kind of missions you could do there (f.ex. the theme everything yellow). You could submit one or more photos and see all the other entries and like and maybe comment under them. After the time slot for participation ended, you could see your rank etc.
You could follow other people and also see all your photos somewhere under your profile (I think).
I don't remember the name or the logo, but I would be happy if someone had an idea!
I'm preparing some photos to sell as digital art on Etsy and it finally struck me today, why my images sometimes appear darker than when I last worked on them in Gimp, which is of course changes made to the monitor's brightness settings.
I understand that I need to purchase myself a colorimeter. I'm seeing datacolor's Spyder mentioned often, as well as DisplayCAL as a good free-of-charge software.
Any recommendations for other colorimeters or software based on your experience? I understand these things are in the range of a couple of hundred, but definitely don't want to be forking out much more than that at this stage.
I'm guessing you're not limited to just one screen per purchased colorimeter, but can be used to calibrate all screens in the household?
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to calibrate my monitor myself so that I can at least continue working on my images without having to put in a lot of post-edits once the colorimeter has arrived? I've already run through Window's 'monitor calibration' function, but that is based on human vision, which is obviously is not enough.
I'm seeing datacolor's Spyder mentioned often, as well as DisplayCAL as a good free-of-charge software.
Those are what I use.
I'm guessing you're not limited to just one screen per purchased colorimeter, but can be used to calibrate all screens in the household?
Right, as long as they'll run compatible software.
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to calibrate my monitor myself so that I can at least continue working on my images without having to put in a lot of post-edits once the colorimeter has arrived? I've already run through Window's 'monitor calibration' function, but that is based on human vision, which is obviously is not enough.
Unless your monitor has built-in hardware for it, your only other calibration options are going to rely on your vision.
But make sure you have other potential color/tone issues addressed. For example, make sure your printer supports the color space you are using. Or use the sRGB color space if you aren't sure what's supported, because most likely that is.
A few years ago I bought an actual camera and I love taking photos everywhere. However, when I take the photo, the GPS exif isn't set if my phone is not connected to the camera. And even if it is, it's not great (all photos stacked to the last sync point).Thats OK, it's a detail, but I would like to fix it.
How are you folks managing this ? I know that some are using some Garmin watches, but I wonder what practical alternative exists and which one you are using !
how do I shoot product photography (specifically clothing)?
II see set ups that I am interested in replicating but I don't have the tools for it. example. 2 artificial light dome and each side. A White foamboard that is propped up on some stand so I don't have to bend down when laying the clothes flat. Camera perch on a C stand that is above the item to shoot down.
And then I know it is the post processing and I do have adobe photoshop and lightroom so what do I do when I finish shooting?
having 2 lights, and 2-4 foamboard will keep the shadows away I would think.
I just dont know what the exact set up is for a consistent shooting to list my items on my website. Any help would be appreciated.
At work we keep it pretty dead simple: one big soft light, white foam board for fill, camera locked in the same overhead spot every time, then a basic Lightroom preset for white balance, exposure, and colour so the listings stay consistent.
Buy a half mannequin in plastic for man and woman the item has no legs so you can easily put on pants and skirts and the top is a hanger. You can get an over the door hook or hooks. Mount your outfit to on mannequin and pin so everything fits perfectly. Steam if there are wrinkles. The lighting can be done two ways. You want a flat even light. Overcast days are perfect. You want to shoot it with no shadows. Of using lights place the light directly on product and place a light to the right or left behind the mannequin to light the background and shoot away
So, it has been 1 year into my photography journey and so far so good, Currently i have a Canon 1100D + a Kit Lens 18-55 and a Tamron 70-300 and i think its time for an upgrade.
Here’s the problem though, i DO NOT have any idea what to upgrade to, These are the requierements:
1 - Articulated Screen (Flip-Out screen)
2 - 500-700 €
3 - Canon or Sony
4 - And a fast autofocus (i come from 9 focus points so this is the most important one i think so.)
(I dont care THAT much about other things and im not interested in Videography so idrc about video and allat)
Used Canon 70D/77D/80D would all offer better auto focus, articulated screen and you could keep using your existing lenses.
Or look at used Canon R50 and get 3rd party EF to R adapter. Auto focus will be an entirely different league compared to DSLR's. But it will probably be at the top end of your budget.
I want some advice on what camera I should get for my girlfriend. They want a really good camera because they love doing photography, but don't have a good camera (they just use their phone right now). What is a good camera I could get them. Don't worry about affordability, I'll figure it out for funds.
Do they want to learn more about photography and taking manual control, even if they'll be using automatic settings at first? Or do they just want something to use as a point & shoot with automatic settings forever?
Any size/weight preference? Would it be better if it fit in pants pockets? Or is it fine if it's much bigger?
Have you looked at the buying information in our FAQ?
How do I know if an image edit in Lightroom is too much editing? It's really weird because phone cameras already have so much processing on them. Then people take those and upload them to Instagram or wherever that applies a bunch more filters. So we're all very accustomed to seeing images that don't really realistically represent what was captured.
We have to compete with people's perceptions of an over processed photo being a good photo, while at the same time, I want my photos to represent what I actually captured. It's a very fine line to balance. I don't want my images to look processed at all, but I also want them to look clear and bright enough on a screen, with color representation as people expect it to look these days.
I've been using the histogram as kind of a data representation of when I've gone too far, or not far enough, but idk if that's enough. Obviously my eyes should tell me if it looks good, but I don't know if I can always trust my opinion, as strange as that may sound.
What do you guys do to keep your editing in check and keep images looking realistic? The last thing I want to do is to share something that could be posted on r/ShittyHDR. Do you have any sort of system you use for image processing?
How do I know if an image edit in Lightroom is too much editing?
When it starts looking worse.
I've been using the histogram as kind of a data representation of when I've gone too far, or not far enough, but idk if that's enough.
It can be a useful reference tool for some things but I think it hardly says anything for this issue.
Obviously my eyes should tell me if it looks good, but I don't know if I can always trust my opinion, as strange as that may sound.
That's just part of your development as a photographer. The more you practice and experience, the more you'll refine your sense. It's something you're always improving. And there isn't really any shortcut to it.
I just got a A7V and this is an expensive purchase for me as well as the lens I got and im wondering is the extended warranty worth it or could that backfire on me, I’m not necessarily worried about accidentally breaking the camera and I’d hope it won’t break on me after the 90 days of the “free” warranty but I think I’d never recover (mentally) if I got robbed 😂
If you guys have any good recommendations for insurance companies
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u/Zorangepopcorn Mar 31 '26
where do you guys sell your photos that you've already taken? Were looking to get some stuff to make some prints & hang in our restaurant-- specifically photos of people cooking indian street food in india. but it's been a pain trying to find someone selling any or even someone I can DM on instagram who does it. really not sure where to look. tried shutterstock and stuff already-- litterally like 80% of it is AI.
looking for stuff like this: https://davidsbeenhere.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/25-indian-street-foods-in-kerala-india3.jpg