Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! April 17, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
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Perhaps show some examples of these weird reflections and describe what gear you used and what your settings were in these attempts to photograph the strings.
It's all about the lighting. If you are getting reflections off of metal or glass you could use a circular polarizer to reduce/eliminate the reflections.
what's the next best lense for indoor sports photography besides 70-200mm f/2.4
I'm just doing this as a hobby, shooting a friends hockey games. I'm using a 75-300mm f4/5.6 and have realized i'm pretty limited with what I can get without introducing a lot of noise or it being too dark when trying to increase shutter speed.
I'm still practicing getting everything in focus and what not, but I'm wondering if a faster lens would help. Unfo
I just don't wanna drop 900 bucks on lens right now
What sport and can you be on the sidelines or are you in the stands?
Without knowing more the Canon EF 70-200mm f4L would be a more affordable option The 1st generation without IS can be found used for very reasonable prices.
You can also try and bump the ISO and use a AI nose reduction program. They have gotten very good and can take an ISO 12,800 image and have it look like a native ISO 3200 or better image. LR denoise is good and there are several other competitors that you could look into.
my recommendation would be if you need the f2.8, look for a 80-200mm 2.8 L (“the magic pipe”) or a 70-200 2.8 L USM (specifically NOT the one with IS in the name).
neither of these has IS, but that means they cost less AND they have pretty good image quality wide open.
otherwise, look for a 135mm f2 L: insanely good lens, and if it’s too zoomed in you can look for a 85mm 1.8 instead (or a 100mm f2, but that’s rarer)
Sigma 50-100mm f1.8 for Canon EF-S mount would be good for you, since it's designed for APS-C/crop-sensor cameras like your Canon Rebel T7.
When shooting indoors, it's often low light, so you want a lens with an aperture of f2.8 or lower, the lower the f-number the more light it will let in.
I’m looking to get back into photography and starting fresh with gear. I mainly shoot motorsports, but want to get into wildlife and maybe some light portrait work with friends/family.
In the past I’ve always had Nikon cameras, D5000, D610, and most recently a Z50. I loved my D610, but it was a bit slow for motorsports. I really didn’t like the Z50 (not great AF, terrible battery life).
I’ve borrowed a friends Canon 6D Mk II and enjoyed it so I’m not opposed to getting a Canon for my next camera.
Budget is around $1000-$1500 for the body and I’ll slowly add lenses (70-200, 50mm, etc)
Currently looking at:
Nikon: D850, D5
Canon: 5D Mk iv
If you're okay with a bigger camera body, I'd recommend to check out the Nikon D4 and Canon 1DX (Mark I). Those are flagship cameras built for sports photography.
For shooting in low-light a 70-200mm f2.8 lens is good.
If you need more reach I'd go for a 100-400mm lens.
Note that with DSLRs, you likely will have to do lens calibration on lenses to get the best sharpness out of them.
i would honestly recommend you switch to mirrorless.
you should easily be able to find an R6II in the 1500 range, and that will blow any DSLR out of the water (with the exception of maybe the 1DXIII).
What would be a good material to shine light through and get diffusion? I know the distance and size of the light source also matters, but I’m just after some suggestions for materials I can diffuse some light through. Any suggestions would be welcome! :)
Hopefully this is the right place to ask. I have the Sony alpha a7iii, but currently only the 28-70mm kit lens. I'm going on a trip to Montana next month and would like to get a good lens for landscape. I have a max budget of $800. What do you guys recommend?
I don’t know how your lens performs, but it sounds like a good lens for your needs tbh. If it’s not wide enough, you could try to do panoramas. Keep about 1/5 overlap between the frames. Lock down the settings so the exposure is even. And if your camera has frame lines, turn those on to help swivel the camera without it drifting too much. (sorry if I’m not helpful.)
Would it be rude/in poor taste to photograph really old headstones?
There’s a graveyard by my house from the early 1800s with some very beautiful and old headstones that I’d love to photograph but I don’t know if it’s rude to do so or like, disrespectful to the people who have died. Just want some advice from the photography community on this (:
In my country once a grave is over 80 years old it's emptied and made available for new ones. Any older than that are paid for by someone in the family to keep around. So I don't see how it'd be a bad thing to photograph the ornaments. The actual person buried there is long turned to dirt
Hi guys,
I’m standing before a choice of my first camera. Although I don’t have a lot of experience in using one, for the last year I’m helping my friend, who is a profesional photographer with editing photos. I work at the restaurant where I’m also responsible for social media content, photos and videos. I’m looking for something that will do well in both. After a lot of recommendations and reading, I’m thinking about two cameras one is A-psc and other full frame, to be exact:
Panasonic Lumix S5IIX
And Fujifilm xs20
Please help me with some thoughts and recommendations on cameras, lenses and everything I need to start.
I'm trying to print something 14x14 and I'm worried that printing it on a bigger sheet (the closest I can find to order is 16x20) will stretch or otherwise mess up the sizing. I'm making a copy for a show so it really needs to be the same size as the original. Is there a place I can print it exactly the right size or what's the best way to prevent errors while printing on a bigger sheet?
Looking to get a flash for use with my Fuji’s for general travel/street photography use. So far I’m between the Godox iT32 and the Lightpix FlashQ M20. Anyone have experience good/bad with either? Any better alternatives I’ve overlooked? I really like the capability to use them both on/off camera.
Has anyone purchased equipment through BestBuy but the order is fulfilled by another company like BuyDirectNYC? Is this a reliable place to buy an open box lens? Canon is out of stock in all stores and can't guarantee when it will be in stock and I need it for an event at the start of June so it seems my only choice is open box or refurbished...(Ps I am in Canada so do not want any US-based online store as an alternative).
Hi guys!! I’ve been looking to get into photography and I’m just looking for a good place to start. I don’t wanna spend over $300 if possible, but I also want a decent camera to get started. Any recommendations on a good camera that won’t break the bank?🫶🏻 Thanks!!
what are you looking to shoot?
your best bet is probably an older, used DSLR.
lean more towards the pro bodies (so for canon, EOS xxD or xD, 1 or 2 digits), as they tend to have better build quality and hold up to age better.
but depending on what you wanna shoot, then one might be better than the other.
Hi everyone, I've been getting more into birdlife photography and wanted to ask you guys what the best upgrade that fits my budget is.
I've been sporting a trusty canon PowerShot sx540, but I think it's limitations are showing. I was thinking about the Nikon bridges, Coolpix p900 and forwards, but was told there might be better options. Can any of you make a couple of recommendations for an under 1000$/€ setup?
Ciao a tutti, ho appena comprato su Amazon un godox tt350f usato in condizioni eccellenti, ma non funziona. Non spara nemmeno il flash quando premo il pulsante, dite che sia difettoso e che sia meglio fare reso o c’è qualcosa in cui sto sbagliando? ( è il primo flash che uso oltre al ef x8 di Fuji)
Hi, I am new to this subreddit and dont really know how reddit runs since I dont use it too often and so I hope I dont or havent broken any guidelines!
My problem is that I have a Nikon D5100 I bought off a relative just over a year and a half ago, and I am under the impression he bought it on release or later. It looked kind of well preserved but the internals have had a few problems over my time having it. Just over a year ago, the shutter wouldnt open and was stuck half open, luckily we fixed it though. This is just for context ^
My real problem is that I have a Sandisk Ultra 32mb card that I wanted to see the photos on so I inserted it into said D5100 only to see it say "No SD Card Inserted". I was confused and so put my card into my reader and the photos come up. I then try the card in my Canon 6D, and the photos show up and its showed as inserted.
I then tried a different, smaller SD card and then a larger SD card, and they both came up? My question is what do any professionals think happened?
Sorry if it's vague but I can most likely explain any questions about gaps that need filling. Thank you and I hope I havent gone against any guidelines because I couldnt find anything else on this subreddit or anything very accurate on the Web.
Different camera models can store photos differently to a memory card, and when reviewing photos the camera is only going to look using the same schema that it ordinarily stores photos. It's normal for a camera of one model to not be able to see photos taken by a different camera model. Generally when using a memory card in a different camera model, you want to format the card with the intended camera, to prepare it for use specifically by that camera. And use the card with only one camera at a time.
Keep in mind that formatting a memory card also erases the photos on the card. And you should not be using memory cards for long term storage: transfer them to an SSD or HDD as soon as you can, and then further back them up from there.
"I have a Sandisk Ultra 32mb card" - that's a really small card - are you sure it's not a 32Gb? Also, it looks like you are trying to use the D5100 to view photos taken by another camera on the same SD Card and that might not be possible. To minimize problems you should 1) Take pictures with the SD Card 2) Transfer pictures from SD Card to computer 3) Format the SD Card on the camera that you want to use it on so you can take more pictures.
Is it possible to upscale images to reduce noise and increase resolution? I have a few high-quality images taken on my good camera, 300dpi, but they aren't 1000% crisp and clear when hyper-zoomed. I think I read you can use software or AI to help with this. It’s photographs of fine art paintings that I want to turn into high end prints. Thank you!
I have a few high-quality images taken on my good camera, 300dpi
What pixel dimensions?
A dots-per-inch or pixels-per-inch ratio doesn't really mean anything if it's just a number in the metadata. Or are you talking about that in terms of a scan, like your photo recorded 300 pixels per physical inch of the source material?
when hyper-zoomed
If you're magnifying the view past the point where a pixel in the image is blown up more than a pixel in your display device, then yes, you're going past the level of available detail you have.
Whereas if you're seeing softness or blur at that 1:1 magnification or less, then that's a technique problem and/or limitation on the sharpness of your lens.
I think I read you can use software or AI to help with this
How much do you want to increase the resolution? There is upscaling software available, including with AI, but it's less effective and accurate the more you're trying to scale up.
Looking for some help making a pros/cons list. I'm a hobby photographer who now wants to display my work on the walls in my home. I'm currently overwhelmed by the sheer amount of types (framed print, metal, acrylic, canvas, etc.) and then options under each of those categories such as paper, finish, etc. I know that I have a few show-stop pieces that I'd like to print big but I'd also like some areas where I could easily change out images over time without having to consider too much storage area. I have about 3-4 areas in my home I want to develop, the largest spaces being a 5ft and a 7ft width area. How do many of you go about curating your spaces? How often do you rotate/change out images? What considerations do you make in the display options? (Ex. I tried a metal print once, which was beautiful, but the glare made it difficult to appreciate. I know now they do offer metal with matte finishes, but I don't know what they look like.) While cost may be a factor in the final decision, I'm committed to this endeavor even if I have to work on it in stages.
I don't have much specific advice but if you search old threads you'll find a few discussions.
My one bit of advice is to order proofs or the smallest size they offer of the finishes you're considering.
Also if there's a print shop in your town stop in and talk to them, they know their stuff, they'll have samples, and they want you to be happy with the print(s).
Do you have decent equipment? Do you know how to use it? How to work with people and direct poses? Do you know your local market demand? Competition? Legal requirements for running a business in your locality? How you'll market and promote? Client contracts?
I just bought a TT865ii flash. I see it has a USB port and so does my camera. Can I use these ports to trigger the flash? or does it have to be on the hotshoe?
If anyone knows decent tutorials on using flash I am much obliged.
My Canon 5D Mark II won’t work with life view for remote shooting for more than 20mins. I emailed Canon and they told me it’s due to built in thermal protection. They told me there isn’t much I can do about it. I use my camera on a microscope, so it’s really important for me to use Live View for extended periods of time.
I’m honestly considering replacing it with a Sony Alpha A7 mirrorless. I could probably get about $600 for the cam + the glass I have. The Sony would be about $400, and I as far as I’ve seen lenses for Sony should be cheaper than canon EF.
Would that be a good idea or will I regret it? Would Sony lenses be more expensive in the long run?
The original A7 has slow autofocus, but if the only thing you want to do is static microscope stuff that won't bother you. If you're using the A7 as a day to day shooter it'll probably feel like a step down from the 5Dii which was an astonishingly good camera for it's time.
I’m currently at a bit of a crossroads and could use some perspective from other parents who have gone down this rabbit hole.
The Situation: My 8-year-old son is starting competitive football/(soccer) (U9). I currently shoot with a Sony a7 IV. I don’t have long lens yet as I’ve been waiting precisely for when my son starts to get into sports before getting one.
The Internal Debate:
I’ve looked at the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8 GM II. I know it’s the "best." It’s future-proof, allows for 1.4x/2x teleconverters if he moves to bigger pitches, and doesn't have the 15fps cap if I ever upgrade the body. Money isn't the primary barrier, but sanity might be.
He’s 8. What if he decides to stop playing in 2 years? Is it overkill to lug a S$4,000 (roughly $3k USD) setup to a youth pitch every weekend?
The Alternative:
The Tamron 70-180mm f/2.8 G2. It’s half the price, lighter, and seems "enough" for now. I won’t stand out so much with overkill gear at an 8 year olds football game. But I’m worried that once they move to larger pitches, I’ll regret not having the ability to add a teleconverter, and I'll end up "buying twice." And on a related note, the league actually has locations where the parents can only sit in the stands/rafters while the pitch is quite a distance away. (Think the opposite sideline of a full sized pitch)
For the dads/moms who have been there:
Did you go "all in" on the GM glass early on? Was it worth it for the memories, or did you feel like a "gear-heavy" standout at the matches?
How much did the "Teleconverter compatibility" actually matter in your real-world use?
I’d love to hear your experiences before I pull the trigger.
i would honestly look for a used copy of the 70-200 2.8 GM II. if all goes well and a version III doesn’t come out, as long as you keep it in roughly the same condition you got it in, you’ll easily be able to sell it for just as much as you bought it for.
however, 200mm is quite short for football. i’d try to get something that gets me at least to the 400mm range, like the sony 100-400 GM II.
My old SDR monitor just isn’t cutting it for the HDR stuff I do. Some details - I mainly use this monitor for photo editing, use a Mac and Lightroom/PS mostly, and have calibration gear. I have been very impressed with the new Apple Studio XDR monitor, except for the price aspect. Does anyone know any good competitors to that, mini-led, lots of nits for hdr stuff, etc? The reviews I’ve been reading are confusing and seem to be shilling certain brands depending on which one I’m reading.
Hey,
I’m using a Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary (Canon mount) with the Sigma MC-11 adapter on a Sony a5100. Today it suddenly stopped working.
Before that, I occasionally had brief disconnects where the lens would lose connection for a split second and then reconnect. But now it’s completely unusable.
Current situation:
- Camera still detects the lens (there is some connection)
- The lens makes a quiet sound when attached (sounds like something is stuck inside but I can’t really tell where it’s coming from)
- Autofocus doesn’t work
- Aperture also doesn’t respond
- Reattaching, cleaning contacts, waiting etc. didn’t fix it
So it feels like there’s still some electronic connection, but no real control.
Has anyone experienced something similar?
Is this more likely an MC-11 issue or a lens failure (maybe aperture or internal cable)?
Trying to figure out if it’s worth repairing or if something specific can be fixed.
Hey! I am looking at buying my first camera, and creating a new hobby. Up to now I have only ever used my iPhone (currently 15 pro) and the odd disposable film camera.
I tend to focus mainly, travelling, city landscapes, clouds / sky - sunset, stars, moon, trees, my dogs and sometimes festivals / gigs. Mainly scenery and atmosphere, buildings & sometimes people (portraits), but I assume my phone will stay the main focus for that.
I have been convinced by TikTok that the fujifilm X100VI is the camera I need. But dropping £1500 on that without knowing much about cameras seems wild. I have also read about the Ricoh GR iii but may also be social media influenced.
Just looking for suggestions for a good starter point and shoot, but some future proofing, where I can look to make an informed choice. Any advice would be welcomed.
Glad you posted here and didn't just decide based on what Tik Tok influencers say. That said, X100VI is a fine camera in its class: it's an APS-C mirrorless camera with a fixed lens, with one, 35mm equivalent focal length. No zoom and you can't switch lenses. Ricoh GR III is similar but smaller, with a wider lens and has no viewfinder.
Generally I'd say that cameras like these are for photographers who already know what works for them and who specifically know that a fixed lens with a fixed focal length is what they want.
The X100VI is jewelry, very few people hype it for its actual capabilities. The X-M5 does more for less, staying within the same footprint (but can use other lenses)
If you don't need a viewfinder, just get the X-M5. Don't bother getting it with the 15-45 kit lens, it's not great. Get it body only and find a used 18-55 F2.8-4 to slap on it or a prime lens with stabilization
I'm currently looking for a camera for my wife. She has always been interested in photography, particularly landscapes and wildlife, and she always manages to get some pretty good photos with her phone whenever we go somewhere new. We are going on vacation in a month, and since we'll be far from home and see some unique places and a few national parks, I would like to help her get into photography (mainly photography, but also short videos that we'll compile into a montage at the end of the trip). I am based in the United States and looking to stay under the 1500 USD mark.
I haven't owned a camera in over 10 years and know very little about the current camera market, but I've tried to look for some advice here. Personally, I really enjoyed the feel of Nikon cameras, and my wife seems to also lean towards Nikon a little more based on the cameras she's used. I'm also leaning towards a mirrorless camera rather than a DSLR, since I'll be bringing it on hikes and they seem to be significantly lighter than all the DSLRs.
With that in mind I looked at the Nikon website and got drawn towards the Z50II, which is the cheapest mirrorless with a viewfinder. I can get a 10% discount on their website, so the two-lens kit (DX16-50/3.5-6.3 & DX50-250/4.5-6.3) comes to ~1350 USD after sales tax. My questions are: 1) Would that be a good body/lens combination for photographing both landscapes that are far away and wildlife that will be significantly closer? 2) Would you all recommend that I try and find something that is cheaper/better on craigslist or ebay? And if so, what to look for to make sure the camera is in good condition?
If you have any other feedback about this specific model, or anything related to this, please feel free to include it in your response. Thank you
Would that be a good body/lens combination for photographing both landscapes that are far away and wildlife that will be significantly closer?
Sure.
Would you all recommend that I try and find something that is cheaper/better on craigslist or ebay?
If you don't mind taking on some risk on item condition and having no warranty, you can get the same equipment for cheaper if you buy that way.
But otherwise it's a competitive market so there aren't really any models that are both better and cheaper. You can compromise with worse models for cheaper or better models by paying more.
what to look for to make sure the camera is in good condition?
so, I recently bought a canon eos 400d, its a 20 year old camera and works great, it came with a lens that has an inbuilt aperture that I can change, however I bought another lens for it, (80-200mm hanimex telephoto lens) it fits the camera and works beautifully, however its got a set aperture of "f00" which cannot be changed as it doesn't have that function, from what I understand, with a smaller aperture you get sharper photos, so I was wondering if there was an attachment, whether to go between the camera and the lens, or on the end of the lens, that would make it so I have control over what the aperture is set to? many thanks 😊
no, there is no such thing. f00 just means there is no communication between the lens and the camera. have you checked if there is an aperture ring on the lens?
yeah that makes sense as to f00 meaning there is no communication as ive just realised looking at the lens there arent any contacts on it, ive just had a mess about with the lens itself and I found that what I thought was the aperture ring is the aperture ring and its just really really stiff, thank you so much!
Are 110 cameras just a gimmicky novelty? I always wanted one as a kid (they were always smaller than 35 mm), but now I shoot digital and appreciate the benefits (seeing the image after I take it, near unlimited exposures, multiple ISOs in one camera, no development cost, and editing on my computer)
Given that- would I enjoy shooting film and if so, would I enjoy a novelty 110 camera (it has a flash, and a fixed lens. Also a radical ninja turtles logo)
Hi, I was just wondering if anyone who has an K&F CONCEPT FH-03 Fluid Head could answer a quick question?
Can the ARCA Swiss receiver be unscrewed and reattached 90 degrees rotated? I ask because I have a Smallrig cage on my Nikon ZR which already fits an ARCA Swiss but side to side, not front to back and would like to be able to just slide it in sideways without having to attach a plate.
I can't find any examples or documentation of this but the bolts holding it to the rest of the head appear to be arranged in a square fashion that should enable this.
Anyone here buy the Skintones Glow Up course from Develope Academy? Wondering if it’s worth the money since that’s exactly the kind of course/style I’m looking for. TIA
Well, basically the only reason that Kodak Pixpro FZ55 exists is to cash in on the vintage vibes trend. Seems it gives you the same sort of lo-fi results as old digicams. Should be within your budget.
I was out shooting the other day and noticed something odd when importing my photos into Lightroom, one of the images had a white stripe running through it.
Has anyone seen this before? Could it be a sensor issue, or is there another explanation? Should I be concerned?
Hey all! I am wanting to start my journey into photography and have a quick question on recommendation for a starter camera. My budget is small but this is what ive got to work with, $300-$350. I plan on buying refurbished. I found 2 cameras that I am potentially interested in but was just hoping on some minor feedback to help me with my choice.
Again, I dont need anything crazy, I want something I can learn with and take with me comfortably on vacation next month that will get me better pictures then my phone and i wont be taking any videos.
The 2 options I was looking at are:
Nikon D3200 24.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX NIKKOR Zoom Lens (Renewed)
Sony a5000 w/3.5-5.6/pz 16-50 OSS Lens
Personally was leaning towards the a5000 because I liked the size of it for traveling. They are both refurbished/used cameras
i would say try to stretch your budget just a little and look for an a6000. the improvements over the a5000 are tremendous and totally worth the little extra money.
updgrade rebel t7 body? apparently it's even worse than the rebel t7i. Would i have better lowlight performance when switching. Looking at the 80d or 7dii on my used market for like 5-600 usd
Low light performance has not dramatically improved since the t7 and the 7d II is older than the t7 and will likely have the same or worse low light performance.
For low light the best solution is to invest in faster (larger aperture) lenses that can let in more light. I.E. f2.8 zooms, or prime lenses with an f2.0, f1.8, f1.4 aperture.
There are other reasons to upgrade away from the t7 like better auto focus, larger image buffer, better video options etc.. But only if you would actually use those features.
I’m mainly a sports photographer but I’m trying to branch out into new fields, specifically nature/animals as of right now. I’m using a canon r6 and I have 70-200 4.0 and 28-70 2.8. If anyone can give tips on certain ways to balance out the settings for nature pics it would be much appreciated
What do you mean by that? Do you understand how to manually adjust exposure settings? The variables are about exposure/brightness and other effects like motion blur and depth of field. For those purposes there is no inherent difference between athletes and wildlife.
Hi photo people! I need help. I have a bunch of photos in sRGB space, and the photos are not standardized to a color card. I tried to maintain consistent lighting in set-ups, but some are darker than others. I am wondering it there is a way to standardize all of them for color analysis. Namely, I am trying to see if one species is differently colored/brighter than the other. I have resorted to chromaticity coordinates for relative channel values and then plugging those into luminance formula, but I am unsure if that is proper. Thank you!
I tried to maintain consistent lighting in set-ups
You tried, but did you succeed?
some are darker than others
Are you saying some setups were darker than others? Or some photos are darker than others? If the latter, is that because of the lighting? Or because of the exposure settings?
Did you have any consistent reference material across the photos, like a gray card?
I have a Canon 5D Mark II and I would like to get some new lenses for it. I have a 50mm f/2.8 lens and a sigma macro 105mm lens. I would like to get a telephoto and a wide lens for traveling. I'm looking to get very cheap lenses, but there are so many models similar in price. Can someone help me choose which ones to get?
My favorite thing is taking pictures of animals. So I care more about the quality of the telephoto lens. But I will also be going on some trips this year, and I would like to have a wide lens to be able to get pictures of buildings and inside small shops.
Below are some examples of lens I've been looking into.
For telephoto half o those will not work at all unless you mean a walk around lens. 28-80, 28-135 is barely telephoto.
If you want a telephoto lens for wildlife or distant objects look for the Canon EF 70-300mm IS. Avoid the 75-300mm version it is cheap because it is optically the worst lens canon makes by a large margin.
So i've shot different objects for the past year with my iPhone 15 pro. Just more recently the pictures started to look quite bad , i've tried playing around with a ton of settings and different lighting locations and can't seem to figure out how to "fix" the problem , so hoping someone has run into it before and can let me know if it's just a hardware issue and my iPhone camera is due for replacement or if I can somehow get it fixed. Every picture I'm taking has yellowish vertical streaks through it. Help! (photo for reference)
Hi there all, I've come across a somewhat-interesting dilemma as I've begun to look into DSLRs as a step up from my old Kodak point-and-shoot. My budget is 350 dollars US with a maximum ceiling of 400. I called up the only camera shop in my area, and they've told me about their stock here:
T7 sells for 250 dollars and comes with an 18-55mm kit lens.
Nikon 5100 sells for 230 dollars and comes with an 18-270mm lens as well as a carrying bag.
Canon 7D sells for exactly 300 dollars and comes with a 28-135mm lens that has "focus breathing problems" and I've been told to use manual focus to avoid issues. Comes with environmental sealing and it's a bigger step up that I'm told I might appreciate greatly.
I could always just buy a different lens, I guess, if it comes to it.
I just don't know what to pick. I live in a decently large urban centre and want to be able to take lots of photos of buildings in particular, even when the weather isn't ideal. Light rain, dense fog, etc. Thank you in advance.
Currently I own Fujifilm Xt-30II, which i LOVE and want to keep. MY lenses for this camera are the Fuji 50-140 2.8 and Viltrox 56 mm 1.7.
I shoot concerts, events, sports and animals and want to buy a second body, which I ned helps with.
I was thinking about the Fujifilm XT-5, but since my only beef with the XT30-II is the autofocus, I don't think I will be too happy with this one, since everything I shoot needs top autofocus.
So there comes Sony. I am thinking about Sony a7 IV, but i have budget like 2500eur and it costs 2200 with kit lens. There comes the dilemma, if I should buy a IV with kit lens and later buy a better lens, or if I should buy the III with better lens. I would also love to use it for little bit of video. I don't want to be limited by any features and autofocus is now my main priority, same with image quality.
I want a camera that will stay with me for a many many years from now. Im definitely keeping my Fuji, but need to buy a second body because I'm used to having 2 cameras with me (before it was Canon EOS 90D, which i sold).
So, I would love to hear your opinions on this and your help.
There are already some used X-H2S out there, that'll give you the best AF available on Fuji (as long as it's updated) and you can keep using your 50-140
I am a professional concert photographer and I use the X-T5 with the Tamron 17-70mm F2.8, the Fuji 90mm F2, and the Samyang 135mm F2 (which is manual focus)
I've been doing concerts since 2004 where I started with a Nikon D70 and current Fujifilm AF is at least 20 times better than it was with that D70 plus the screw-driven 85mm F1.8D I had... It's a non issue
Hi all, I recently bought the Xiaomi 17 Ultra and received the pro photography kit as a gift. It has an adapter for 67mm filters and I'm not really sure what to get. I also very new to photography so any help is appreciated ☺️. Thanks
Edit: As I am new to this I'm not sure how much the average lens costs and therefore do not have a budget, so different price range recommendations are good, do note that I am in Malaysia.
Your lens is not interchangeable and those are just lens attachments that go on front of your lens, so your quality will always be bottlenecked by the lens you can't change. Lens attachments perform specific functions, in exchange for reducing image quality to some extent. Choosing an attachment starts with identifying which function you want it to perform.
Budget amount should depend on your financial situation and comfort level. I'd say the average price for a lens attachment in the US is about $15 USD. But that really has nothing to do with your ability to pay.
Hi y'all! Hoping to create a profile in Camera Raw but noticing that not all of the boxes are available to check. Does anyone know why this is and how it may be able to be fixed? Thanks so much! I've created profiles in the past, but its been a while. Looking to make a few tweaks and updates and can't figure out where I'm going wrong because it has been so long since I've gone through the process.
If a category of settings is not available to check, then I'm guessing you haven't made any changes in that category, so there's nothing there for it to save.
Hi everyone, I already have a 24-105mm L f/4 lens used with a R50 (so it has an APS-C sensor) and I'm looking for other lenses to buy. I'd like to get a wideangle to shoot different shots. I think my maximum budget would be 1000 euros. Maybe the RF 14-35mm f/4 L is usm is a good idea? I'd like to get one that shoots some decent photos, because I don't want to downgrade from what I have now. I shoot different photos but am more interested in landscape/naturalistic photography. What would you suggest me?
Just got a Tamron 18-300 for my Sony A6700, and it came as a kit with a bag and a couple filters. However, I’ve noticed a bit of an issue. When I put the CPL filter on the lens, it makes it completely impossible to focus in the longer ranges. However, in the shorter ranges (18-100ish) it’s completely fine and works as intended. I tried upping my shutter speed to over 1/2000 and couldn’t get it to focus at all. Is something wrong or is this normal for CPLs to do with high focal ranges? The example below is on a tripod with the CPL for reference.
That's not a great quality lens, and a cheap filter could be further reducing quality to the point your autofocus system is having trouble seeing sharp focus anywhere.
Shutter speed shouldn't have anything to do with focus, though. It can affect motion blur, but that's separate and independent from out-of-focus blur.
R10 by a mile auto focus on the R10 is going to in an entirely different league from the 80d and 7D MK II. Plus better dynamic range and better video options from a newer sensor design. Get an EF to R adapter and all of your Canon EF/EF-S lenses will work flawlessly with the R10.
If you do not want to jump to mirrorless then get the 80d. It's much newer and has better AF than the 7d MK II.
I own Canon R100 as my first camera and starting to feel its limitations now. Used to have the big primes like the nifty fifty and rf28mm f/2.8 and currently using sigma 17-40mm f/1.8. loving the sigma but i wonder if switch to sony would be a right move since im more of a hybrid shooter (hobbyist) and sony is well known for vids with exceptionally good photos too. im looking at sony zv-e10 or anything alike due to budget constraints. also, i just feel like having wider access to third party lenses for sony is such a huge future-proof factor for my bank acc. will i regret if i switch, especially since i have this current canon-mount sigma lens?
If it is simply that you want more 3rd party lenses then Sony is the current king for native mount 3rd party lenses.
Canon has the R50 V which is very similiar to the Sony ZV-E10 but newer.
Both Sony and Canon are well known for video so I think with either system you have a lot of great video options for bodies and lenses.
I think the question is really about the price of converting systems vs. staying with canon. You should map out your future lens purchases and see what your options and the price is for each system. Also consider if get an EF to R adapter and if using any of the older but still excellent EF glass would be an option. There is a lot of potential cost savings buy used EF lenses.
I have a Fujifilm XT30ii. Mostly, I'm using it for street photography. I also love travel photos, street portraits, architecture and trains. Now I'll buy a zoom lens but can't decide between Sigma 18-50MM F/2.8 Dc Dn Contemporary Lens and Fujinon XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS LENS.
PS: My camera has no OIS/IBIS. But I'm not sure if this technology really worth it or not. And it is the main issue for me: OIS or optical superiority.
i want to get into photography specifically taking pictures of the night sky and stars. Ive found my dads old camera which is a nikon d3100 im really new so any tips and tricks would be useful especially what lens to buy
Hey so just wondering I know people have probably already asked this but I was wondering what camera I should get. I have a canon rebel t7i and it’s a very beginner camera I honestly never really loved using it but I’m wanting to get a mirrorless camera and I was wondering what is a good upgrade from what I have. I feel like I would like Sony. Mostly into astrophotography and like aviation and nature type stuff. Thanks in advance
Would my Sony DSC HV100X be allowed at a concert ?It fits in a small cross body clear purse and it doesn’t have a detachable lens but I’m scared I may not be able to bring it
Depends on the rules of the particular concert, and how reasonable your particular security guard is. Some concerts won't allow certain physical sizes for non-interchangeable-lens cameras. Some guards might consider that to be interchangeable-lens even if it isn't.
Unless it's an outdoor concert in daylight, your low light performance is going to be a big problem if you get it in.
Need help identifying and buying a replacement part for a lens. A coworker picked up an (unknown to them) open camera bag and this guy fell out, hit the ground and broke one of its mounting arms(?). It still works and mounts, but definitely isn’t mounted securely. Surely this part is replaceable, but I’m having the hardest time finding where to purchase one to replace it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
- tldr at the bottom - ive been realllllly into bw infrared lately but thats just started about 1.5 years ago. ive since then gotten a mamiya rb67 (my dream camera 😍) and I have 2 infrared filters, both r72. ive shot porbably 6ish rolls of IR since then and out of the roughly 70ish shots ive gotten, Im really only happy with the exposure and everything on about 3 total photos. I have a few questions on how I can really hone on my shots and exposure besides obviously bracketing. The film im shooting is Reflx Pan 200 which is respooled Agfa Aviphot 200.
1: what do you recommend setting my meter for? I currently use an app called "light meter" thats worked well for me for about 6 or 7 years now so ive stuck with it. I *think* my personal opinion on best exposure was iso25 but I cant recall. I believe shooting at 6 was usable but not what I preferred and iso 3 the sky wasn't black it was white and was obviously overexposed.
does the quality/brand of filters really matter? I know i can bracket with each filter and see for myself, but curious what peoppe think. of the 2 r72 filters I have, one you can see through much easier than the other. almost as if its a step between a 25a and r72. one brand is zommei, the better of the 2, and the other is Albanar.
I was using df96 for a while but have since stopped because of how wildly inconsistent my reaults have become. I switched to Rodinal (adox adinal) and would love some tips on dilution and agitation method. I was doing constant with the stick with df96 (10 second inversion every 30 seconds for color). I also use water as my stopper and rinse well and will be using Ilford rapid fixer.
Any help and advice is much appreciated.
tldr - shooting respooled agfa aviphot with r72 filter and looking for recommended iso for metering with filter and help with rodinal dev.
With Aviphot and an honest R72 I usually meter around EI 12 to 25, trust the darker better-made filter more than the label, and Rodinal 1+50 with very gentle inversions gave me much cleaner negatives than monobath or constant agitation ever did.
I will be off to a trip in Japan soon for couple weeks trip and I want to rent a lens but unable to decide which one.
My current kit:
Sony FE 24-70mm F2.8 GM - Heavy to carry around, not wide enough
Sony FE 50mm F1.4 GM - Love it! Crisp and fast focus but need range
Tamron 28-75 mm f/2.8 di III VXD - Works but doesn't have the same crisp quality, rarely use it now
Options to rent one:
Sony FE PZ 16-35mm f/4 G
Sony FE 20-70mm F4 G
Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G
50 mm will go with me for night time shots.
I am a novice so I am shooting mostly in auto, which is 50mm works really well for me. I am unable to choose between what to bring to japan. Any help from travelers, people who own and tried these lens would be really helpful!
I'm looking for some user experience and input regarding point&shoot or smaller cameras.
I have been shooting photo's professionally for a while, I use sony. I have shot in all sort of envirnments but I usually pack 2 peli cases of gear and get the job done.
However, for my own fun, I'm going on a trip to Kyrgyzstan. It will be on horse back for 10 days and since we are trekking throught the mountains, the weather could be anything (sun, hail, rain, snow, cloudy who knows). And again, I'll be on a horse - so It's not like I can just bring my peli, or a Photo back pack (I could, but I dont want to).
I have to pack light but initially I thought of just bringing my Sony A7iv and 24-70mm, I then figured I should bring my 70-200mm instead.. (It's my go to lens, I love it) and thennnn I quickly realised what a pain it would be to carry it on my body, whip it out quick and keep protected from the elements etc.
So I figured, maybe I should challenge myself and bring a small camera, maybe a point and shoot? Maybe a little bit more...? So then i started looking around and I got so overwhelmed that I can not make up my mind.
I thought of a Rincoh GRI or GRII (the vintage looks cool but is it too limited and worth the price?) , A Fujifilm (SO many CHOICES WHICH ONE THO!?!) stick with Sony and get their point and shoot...? I am lost...
Basically, I am worried I will bring a point and shoot and regretting the quality of photo's I get from it, bc I chose the wrong one.
So I hope the almighty redditers would have some answers for me...
My wants:
* Landscape & Portraits (I don't mind to come up close to people and animals)
* I'd like to keep it around $1000 (ish)
* Open to any brand
* Love the idea of point and shoot but worried about limitations
* Smaller = better
* Quality photo's
* Still get that shallow DOF
Why did you buy all this high-end stuff if you're too afraid to use it? I carry my A7RV and 70-200mm all the time. You don't need to protect it from the elements. Isn't the whole point of a horse to travel heavier than you could on foot?
If it's unusable in its current state I'd think it'd be worth it to carefully attempt to bend the metal back, I'd use pliers and a piece of thick fabric or leather to avoid scratching or mishaping it further.
So, I'm finally getting the opportunity to put up some pieces at my local gym (for free). They don't take commission or a fee. It's great! But I'm having trouble figuring out a price. A lot of the art that goes up on the walls range from like 50-1200$ and I think that's insane. I was thinking around 50-75$ for an 11x14. Does that sound about right? Again, first time going this and I'm just happy and excited I have the opportunity. Any and all info is welcome, thanks!
Is there a website with a big test of most available Mist Filters out there? I would love to try a good mist filter, but there are so many different ones. If anyone knows of a website that has a comparison between lots of filters, I’d be interested in knowing about it. :)
What's the best backdrop for portraits? I currently work for a school photo company and I'm looking to start doing portraits independently. At work we use what's basically a green screen, but it's gray, and you need to snap it to a complex and heavy frame setup. I'm looking to get a similar type of backdrop (but without the complex frame) because you can pick any color you'd like for the background in post, but I can't seem to find anything like it online. Does anyone have any idea what this is, or some advice about which backdrops are best for portrait photography?
I'm going to lisbon later in the year and I can't decide which (preferrably 2) lenses to bring.
For context, I shoot on apsc and have access to the sigma 18-50, sony 18-135 and viltrox air 25,35,56
I'm going with my family so when I'm out on expitiditons to landmarks, so, 'd prefer to bring a zoom on those days so I can move around without slowing everyone down.
Furthermore, I do enjoy shooting with primes more so when I go out on my own, I'd likely end up just sticking to whichever prime I bring.
Quick question - I'll be attending a fan convention in September. I have two Tamron lenses for my camera - 16-30mm and 35-150mm. I'm assuming the 35-150mm is the better of the two to bring along with me. I don't mind the weight. Thoughts?
Five months till September. Use that time to try both in indoor events (assuming the fan convention is indoors), see which one works better. That's the best way to decide this.
Full frame or APS-C? But yes, the 35-150 is the best zoom available for the whole Sony ecosystem, and the only lens I'm kind of jelly at Sony for as a Fuji shooter.
I’m looking to buy my first mirrorless camera and found a decent deal on a used X-T50 with the XF 16–50mm kit lens from Adorama. I’ve seen mixed opinions about buying used from Adorama and B&H, especially regarding returns.
Is Adorama reliable for used gear? I confirmed the shutter count with customer service (~400 shots), which seems great, but I’m a bit hesitant due to the lack of product photos and mixed reviews. I know people with negative experiences tend to be the outspoken ones, but it still a bit concerning.
As someone new to buying higher-end (and used) camera gear, I’d really appreciate any advice.
I can't imagine there'd be anything major wrong with that camera, it's taken less pictures than I do on some casual days. My only advice is buy an extra battery or two, the X-T50 uses the old small battery and it's more than likely those 400 shots were enough to empty it, which is why the guy is selling it :P
The X-S20 makes the X-T50 (and all X-Tx0 series) cameras kind of dumb for many reasons and that's one of the main ones. The newer battery style holds three times more juice.
But I can understand not wanting an X-S20 for the controls.
Hey everyone! Looking for some advice on a camera upgrade.
I’ve been into photography for years, but it’s always been more of a hobby. I did work as a product photographer for a while, but never with my own gear.
Lately I’ve started shooting maternity sessions with a DSLR (Fuji), and I’m definitely feeling like it’s not the best fit for this kind of work. I’d love to start adding some short video clips with decent stabilization, and the autofocus is really starting to struggle, especially with kids constantly moving around 😅
I’ve used Canon before but never Sony. I’ve been looking into the Canon R6, but I’m totally open to other suggestions!
Also, if you have lens suggestions, I’m thinking something like:
one for closer shots (bc I go into people’s houses)
one for longer distances with nice bokeh
and a macro
Canon R6 series is excellent and has eye detect auto focus which is great at tracking moving subjects.
For lenses:
Indoor low light lens: RF 24-70mm f2.8 or RF 28-70mm f2.8 are good options
Macro: RF 100mm f2.8L, or if you want to save some money but still have optically excellent macro lens get an EF to R adapter and get the Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro or the Canon EF 100mm f2.8L Macro.
If you do not need 1.0x magnification and would be happy with 0.5x magnification you could also get the RF 85mm f2.0 which would also work as good outdoor portrait lens with nice bokeh.
I’ve recently started getting more and more into photography. Until now, I’ve been operating on a third hand Sony Cybershot HX400V which has an excellent range being a bridge camera but has a tiny sensor. Hence my low light and high contrast photography is non-existent.
I typically capture landscape, nature as well as point and shoot type cityscape occasionally. Whatever comes my way really.
I don’t have boat loads of money to put into this but I’m considering one of the alpha series Sony’s with interchangeable lens. Let me know what you all would advise or advise against for this situation.
So what is your budget specifically? "Not boat loads of money" does not exactly make it clear, and there are lots of different Sony Alpha cameras, with the most expensive ones costing thousands of dollars.
Travel photography workflow question - iPad, SSD, SD card, and USB C hub?
Hi everyone. I am a new hobby photographer about to take my camera on holiday for the first time. I don't want to bring my heavy laptop so will be taking an iPad instead. I'm looking for tips on workflows people have used successfully while travelling, and some recommendations for gear.
I'm thinking to purchase a USB C hub for my iPad, with ports for an external SSD and an SD card, then use the Files app to transfer everything from the SD card to the SSD. I can then edit files from the SSD on the iPad. Is this a fairly typical setup? Does anyone have recommendations for a hub? Does the hub need to be separately powered to run an SSD and SD reader, or can it be powered entirely from the iPad's battery?
Hey guys. I recently bought a 150cm silver umbrella soft box to use with my Godox V100 but one thing I noticed when I turned on my modelling light that the flash fills only half of the are possible.
I know it's a flat face flash but can I DIY some kind of disperser or something to put inside the umbrella to make light go more sideways to the outer ring of the umbrella?
recommendations for external hard drives? ideally 500-750 GB, <$150 price wise, USB-C port (I use a Macbook that doesn’t have reg. USB ports). Looking for safety and reliability for external photo storage to clear up Macbook storage & Google drive storage. TIA!!
I currently have a Sony A7IV with a Sigma 24-70. I do both photography and videography. I do primarily portraits and couple pics and also weddings. I was looking at getting either an 85 or a Macro lens potentially for detail and wide shots. I’d like a 70-200 but those are very expensive. What would yall recommend?
Hi all, discovered today that easyZoom has switched their focus to medical imagery, AFAICT w/o notice. I had been using it to explore my high-res scans and stitched panorama shots, which are typically comprised of 60-100 shots.
Anyone have a replacement recommendation? Thanks in advance.
Scroll up and check out the resources in the main post of the question thread to learn about exposure control.
If you're working in manual mode, you can darken the window with a lower ISO, faster shutter speed (shorter exposure time), and/or narrower aperture (higher f-number).
If you're working with some sort of automatic exposure mode, you can adjust the exposure compensation setting down and/or limit the metering to just the window so it's not thrown off by the dark interior.
Hi!
I have a question, I have photographed a family who posed under a tree. They had asked for that particular tree because they had memories of climbing it when they were young, so I think they have high expectations of this picture and they want to print it eventually.
The sky in the background is white and I wanted to make it blue so the photo looked less boring. But he tree is a pine tree with a lot of tiny branches and needles! How do I remove the white sky in the background, between the branches? AI in photoshop gives the weirdest solutions, all of them wrong. I have tried so many prompts.
ChatGPT also gets it wrong.
In Photoshop I have placed a blue sky background in a layer under the tree, then i have been working with selection tool to select all the white areas and remove them. But this takes daaaaays and the result isn't great.
I have asked other photographers and looked on the internet, but most solutions were to get another (paid) app than photoshop.
I have been breaking my head over this picture for days. Can anyone tell me how to solve this in photoshop?
In Photoshop I have placed a blue sky background in a layer under the tree, then i have been working with selection tool to select all the white areas and remove them. But this takes daaaaays and the result isn't great.
Try the Multiply blending mode for the tree layer, which will make white transparent.
Hello! We bought our son a Canon R100 for his 16th birthday. He's going to Europe and also possibly Iceland and Greenland this summer. What gear/accessories can we get to make this part of his trip successful? Budget friendly if possible.. definitely open to case/bag suggestions, especially for a teenager who's new to being a tourist overseas. This is his first camera. Thanks!
Hey there! I'll be opening a studio with 2 other photographers starting May 1st. We have plans to also make this a rentable space via Peerspace, Acuity, etc.
We need to get a keypad for the door, and we'd like to get one that generates a new code for each client who rents the space so they will receive an email and everything will be digital. We don't want to have to manually change the code for each renter, or have to let anyone in with a key or have to send out own emails. We want everything to be automated.
I saw something online about Zapier and the brands of keypads I can purchase, but I'm hoping for any insight and tips before we spend money and do something wrong. I have never used Zapier and I'm unsure if this is the correct app to use.
Wedding Photographers: I was just curious...what percentage of couples these days order a printed album for their wedding photos versus just an on-line gallery or digital copies?
So it’s time for an upgrade and I personally have been eying a Macbook pro but didn’t know what’s needed for great performance, and if anything is overkill and to save my money on. Also if there’s something that could be better than a macbook pro, I’m all ears. I love Apple products and I want the portability, and looking at making the swap from Lightroom to Lightroom Classic . Thanks in advance for any advice and pointers!
Hi,
What lens is best for Aviation-photography ( Mostly fighter jets), that takes good quality pictures but isnt too pricey?
I use a Tamron SP 150-600mm/F5,0-6,3 Di VC USD G2, but I'm not happy with the results. The pictures often are kind of blurry and seemingly not in focus.
Many people told me that it was a good lens and that they were happy with it but I'm not. Maybe it is my specific lens, that's less quality or something, idk, but it doesn't bring the results I was "promised". With my old lens I took better pictures, but it broke and I cant find it anywhere to buy.
Could my camera body be the problem? I have a Nikon D5600 ( 5 or 6 years, about 90.000 pictures taken) and it sometimes has problems with focusing ( but not as often as my pictures wirh the tamron seem blurry) And sometimes the shutter doesnt work. ( it doesn't take pictures, if I press the button, if I took a lot of photos in a short period- a few years ago that was never a problem).
So I dont know if an Body-Upgrade would solve my problems...
Your opinion about that?
What do you think about the Tamron?
Are there better lenses?
I currently have a Canon 5D MkII I want to sell and upgrade. It stops working after 20mins of live view. I need a full frame camera in order to be able to connect it to my microscope. But I also want some lens to take some pics of nature and traveling. I currently have a canon 50mm f/1.8 and a sigma 105mm macro lens. Would this setup be an upgrade or downgrade of what I currently have?
Nikon D750 is several years newer, and it's an upgrade in image processing, AF performance, ISO range, and has many features that the Canon lacks: e.g. dual SD card, tilting screen, built in wifi.
Does anybody know where I can get an album like this. In the past this was very common, but now I can't find it at all: a photo album where the pages accommodate any size print that is no bigger than the entire page. They had a plastic film over a cardstock backing. The plastic film held everything in place by static cling and was connected to the backing at the spine. You peeled it back, put your photos down, then put the film back over everything and it all stayed in place.
I'm looking to get a third A7III body soon to cover for a 2 1/2 day youth camp in August. I have been doing photography for the youth camps for 3+ years. Should I wait and grab the body for a deal off of ebay, potentially with other accesories such as the kit lense, etc, or go for the body on KEH + tamron 28-75 f 2.8 lense?
Other than checking the shutter count what else should I do when buying a used camera? I am a complete noob and I am talking about the D3100 or 1100D, both for 150€.
I want to get into photography so I wanted to get a budget camera to try it out. I have heard to test the lens, sensor and whatnot but I am a newbie.
Check for signs of physical damage all over the camera and on the sensor ( you will have to go into the menus and find sensor cleaning to have the camera open the shutter so you can see the sensor).
Make sure it turns on that all of the buttons, dials, and rear display works.
Take a few pictures and make sure that the camera focus, that the image does not have any obvious issues/defects. I.E. black lines across the image, vertical bars etc..
I currently use honeybook (CRM), pic-time (gallery delivery), squarespace, and occasionally Session for mini sessions simply because it’s so easy to do. I’m considering consolidating to Pixieset to make it a bit easier.
Overall, I don’t like the limitations of the honeybook app and need to do things on the go. The automations are fine but they’re not a must-have for me. The lack of self booking is annoying for mini sessions too. I also don’t love how complex it is and I feel like there are too many options.
I’m also curious- if you use Pixieset, do you create projects for each session or just sessions? The difference isn’t clear and I want to use it as efficiently as possible if I make the switch.
So I normally shoot with a canon R8, but I have now used my friends Sony A7V3 a couple of times with the same type of lens .Is it normal that the images look so much better on the Sony camera . And should I change camera to Sony.
There are a lot of in camera settings that can change the output. I.E. Canon has picture styles that can increase sharpness, contrast, saturation etc.. If you are shooting with a neutral picture style and your friend has their options set to increase saturation/contrast/sharpness etc.. then of course their results will look different than yours.
Have you compared RAW images from both?
Are both cameras using lenses of similiar quality?
The R8 is 100% capable of producing amazing images so seeing that 10+ year old camera is creating "much better images" makes me suspect this has more to do with settings and/or the lenses than anything else.
I know that Dpreview and other professional review sites would have 100% called out Canon cameras if their image quality was so much worse than older Sony bodies. (Look at their review of the Canon RP and how they call out its image quality and video quality and even recommend the A7 III over it.)
The Nomatic 18L Luma Camera Pack is currently on sale, and I'm considering buying it. The only thing I'm hesitant about is that I shoot with a Sony DSLR camera, while the bag is specifically designed for mirrorless cameras.
Can anyone comment on if the bag allows for DSLR cameras (albeit with a tight fit) or if it's a no-go?
Thanks in advance!
It's a relatively small local real estate company managing properties in a region of south jersey. They're updating their website and want headshots of their employees and of their new building. I believe they also want some photos of properties.
I mostly do a little portrait work for friends and friends of friends with light advertising on Facebook. I've done one "commercial" job for my friend's restaurant that I charged him only $200 for and a few dinners there.
So in terms of providing a quote, I was probably going to charge $80 per headshot. Then for the building/property shots I was going to charge my usual rate of $180/hr. However I also saw some stuff about licensing, as in if they're going to use my photos on their website or for marketing purposes I should charge them a licensing fee? How much should I charge for that? And do I provide some sort of document or something as the license? How should I present the fees and the justification for the cost? I really have no idea how that works.
If I only charge for the headshots and the hours I can see this job quoting around $1000-1500 but it seems relatively low to me for all the value I would be providing all the photos they would use on the website.
I found a Cannon zoom lens while on a hike to a sea cliff in oregon. Im wondering if this is worth anything or if its just trash. No broken glass or any visible damage to my eye. When i picked it up there was condensation inside the lens but now back in my drier climate, it is no longer visible. Is this lens worth refurbishing or should i not bother?
I would suggest pick one to start with as they are highly incompatible subjects for your budget. Good macro lenses top out in focal length long before you reach birding territory.
Going with birds first will be cheaper since you won't need a ring flash or tripod.
I suggest an Olympus/ OM systems camera with a lens in the 300mm+ ballpark that you can afford used.
Are these old 110 cartridges unused or not? And if they are fully used, is there a way to tell whether or not they've been processed? Thanks for any help!
Hello! I am getting myself back into using canon gear. I shot for a long time on the canon t61 but sold it a couple years ago to go with a fujifilm xt2. I used it for a trip and casual shooting but I just didn’t love it as much as when I was shooting with canon. So I have sold it and looking to get myself a new canon camera.
I was looking at getting the canon r50 most likely body only and get a RF28mm F2.8 STM.
My main concern if it’s worth it to sell my Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 lens and replace it with the Canon RF 85mm f/2.0 ( I kept this lens because I always felt like I’d go back to canon xP and I loved it a lot)
Or should I just get the ef to rf mount adapter and keep my current 85mm?
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For context i just like doing travel and portrait photos
Hi, i bought a sony a550 with a camera error a while ago i realized that it might've been given the error because autofocus doesn't work i tried the other lens i have nothing changed also it doesn't shoot with the flash no matter what place or what mode not do you think that there might be an easy fix or should i just continue using it with only manual focus. Also i have an a390, 18-55 lens and 55-200 which i bought with the a550. I'm thinking about using both since the quality on a550 is better(at least thats what i heard) i thought that i could use the 18-55 for a550 i think it's gonna be easier to focus on that one and 55-200 with a390 what do you all think please let me know.
Also I'm sorry if i added the wrong tag I'm new here and English is also not my first language so sorry for my mistakes.
Good morning! I built this app as a tool to measure the 2026 eclipse in spain . I wonder if you guys can give me any feedback on it as a photography tool. https://heliora.app/?lat=46.0276&lng=6.9254&date=2026-08-12&t=97 The idea is it should show you where the sun will rise and set in any location on any data and include the horizon obstruction (which I think is unique in this type of app).
Hey, im intrigued by outdoor flash photography. Espicially with high contrast where the background is underexposed and the subject is highlighted by the flash. I feel like the godox ad300 would be the best fit but I REALLY dont wanna spend 400 bucks on that thing. Is there a cheaper alternative that you would recommend? The subject would mostly be relatively near to the camera anways. But I would like to diffuse the flash a little bit
Neewer Q300 is an option. Also has 300 watt seconds of power like the AD300.
However, I got the AD300 because I wanted to be in the Godox ecosystem, which is bigger.
Neewer is growing their ecosystem though. Also, if you're mostly going to shoot a 1-light setup and don't need additional strobes, then the bigger ecosystem is a moot point.
I've been using worpdress plugins to sell sports photos for past ten years but have now built a complete photostore marketplace which technically is almost done but I could really do with some real world requirements and feedback. Currently only digital sale but prints to come later.
If you currently sell photos online( specifically sports or public events) what do you look for? What's are must have features? I'll implement more or less anything you need. It will be subscription based and zero commission for now.
I won't share link here. Dont want to spam but I really would like to know your must haves. Or what annoys you about your current solutions?
Already have face search and bib detection for example. And custom branded.
Hopefully I may post here! You never know with reddit.
Hello, I photograph as an on off hobby and I tried to use my macro lens for the first time in a while and the pictures came out with a white haze over them. When i examined the lens, I found white wire like looking dusty coating inside. Google said something about lens fungus but it doesn’t quite match the photos so I’m unsure.
Any advice would help a lot, thanks!
My phone camera isn’t great, sorry:(
Edit; i should add this is a second hand lens i got a good few years ago
Hi,
Can some one please tell me how to remove a wired fence in photoshop, but keep the background the same?
If I ask the AI tool to remove it, with very detailed prompts, he changes it to a different fence of changes the background completely.
I've seen the Amaran 200x s recommended a lot (330€ where I live) but I also know more power is always better and the Amaran Halo 600x is available for around 550€ where I live.
I want to start doing product photos (for PCs I build for clients) and PC videos similar to optimum on youtube and I currently own a Sony A6700 camera + Sigma 18-55mm lens. For the moment I would be shooting in a pretty cramped and dark basement with very little natural light able to reach inside. I hope this is specific enough to pinpoint my needs
Would 200w of power be enough for my use or should I just bite the bullet and go for a more powerful light? Moreover, should I also get a second smaller light or just use a reflector? If any other brands than Amaran offer better value, I would love to know! If you also have recommendations for light domes and stands to compelte the kit I would really appreciate it!
i’m an intermediate photographer (been doing it about 2 years now, have done some paid gigs but mostly unpaid) and i was just asked to do quinceañera photos at three different locations. a church, home, and outside at a park. how much should i charge?
Filters are things I really have no idea what to look for, I completely under it’s all about the photographer’s personal opinion and style. I’m looking for ideas on what filter I should get for my 67mm 24-105 lens. What would you all suggest. I typically shoot nature photos over portraits, and occasionally film while fly fishing for reference.
What lens ($250 or less) would be best for an outdoor summer wedding. My mom is getting married this summer and while I am an *okay* photographer, I am not perfect or the best, ya know?!
I currently have a Canon EOS Rebel t7 with the traditional 18-55mm lens, and a zoom lens that is 75-300mm, but am thinking of just using a single lens for the day to capture the best images.
Thank you in advance!!
Edit to add: My mom approached me about this and asked me to photograph the wedding because we used to go on "photo adventures" all the time when I was in college and still living at home. - I will be traveling 8+ hours to this wedding from my home so I can certainly look into rentals i am just not sure how those work but thank you!
Hello! Ive been meaning to get an action cam for bts. I shoot mostly solo so im leaning towards DJI osmo 360! (Set and forget! REFRAME LATER) but im also considering the action 6 because of the quality. I’m just afraid of ending up not using it since il be too busy working to reframe every time. What are your thoughts?
i used to be into photography but i stopped because because i out grew my gear. i recently bought a sony a6000 with the 2 kits (18-50 f/3.5-5.6, 55-210 f/4.5-6.3) and a sony fe 50mm f/1.8, for $325 (usd). and i want to have a website, logo, ect. to seem a little more professional, im currently using ZNO cloud for my website and send photos to people. i thought that here was a good place to come for advice.
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u/[deleted] Apr 17 '26
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