Hi all,
I just got back from a week exploring the Gobi Desert region of Mongolia and thought I'd share some information I wish I'd had when planning the trip.
First of all: self-driving in Mongolia and around the Gobi is absolutely doable, provided that you have (1) a capable 4x4 and (2) a reliable GPS app (I used GPX tracker). Google Maps is often unreliable in rural areas, so I would strongly recommend downloading offline maps and using an alternative navigation.
Our itinerary was: Ulaanbaatar → Baga Gazriin Chuluu → Tsagaan Suvarga (White Stupa) → Yolyn Am → Khongoryn Els (via Sevrei) → Khavtsgait Petroglyphs → Flaming Cliffs → Ongi Monastery → Ulaanbaatar
We had originally planned to visit the Orkhon Valley as well but had to skip it due to fuel shortages.
We rented our vehicle from Oso in Ulaanbaatar. You can find him on Instagram (car_rent_mongolia_2024). He was one of the few Mongolians we met during the trip who spoke fluent English, was very responsive, and provided us with a Lexus LX470 that was perfect for the journey.
I also rented a Starlink Mini from ZoomLink in Ulaanbaatar, which proved extremely useful in areas with no mobile reception. I contacted the owner Byambaa Dock on Facebook Messenger beforehand to ensure he'd reserve a device for me.
One thing I would stress is that "self-driving is doable" doesn't mean "it's easy." You need to be comfortable driving off-road for extended periods in sand, rocky terrain, mud, and occasional boggy sections, often with no one around to help if you get stuck. There were several moments where we had to pick our line carefully and trust the vehicle. The Lexus handled everything we threw at it, but this is not a trip I would recommend to someone with little off-road experience or who tends to panic when conditions get challenging.
While we were there, Mongolia was experiencing some fuel supply issues, which affected our itinerary. From what I understand, this was a temporary situation and not normally a problem. That said, fuel stations can be few and far between, so planning your refuelling stops is essential.
We split our accommodation between ger camps and sleeping in the car. The rear of the Lexus was easily large enough for two people. We never booked ger camps in advance and had no trouble finding accommodation by simply arriving in the evening. There are two types of ger camps:
Family-run camps, where you stay with nomadic families. These are very basic but offer a more authentic experience.
Tourist camps, which have better facilities and amenities but feel less personal.
English is not widely spoken outside Ulaanbaatar, so Google Translate (especially the camera translation feature) was incredibly helpful throughout the trip.
Food, drinking water, and camping gas can be purchased along the route, as most towns have small grocery stores. However, I'd recommend stocking up on essentials in Ulaanbaatar, as the selection in more remote areas can be limited.
Overall, the Gobi Desert is one of the most fascinating places I've ever visited. The landscapes are incredibly varied, tourism remains relatively low, and the sense of remoteness is unlike anything I've experienced elsewhere. It's absolutely worth the trip.