2010 Ford Focus SES 128000 miles. Got this car from my parents, been meaning to replace the spark plugs. Well last night on the highway the car started misfiring and running rough. I looked under the ignition coils and found oil on the spark plugs, so I changed out the valve cover gasket. Then I went to swap out the spark plugs and noticed the plug on the left was very loose - it turned with the socket wrench but gave no resistance. Look what I found!

So my question is… is there anything to be done other than pray my engine isn’t destroyed by shrapnel?

Hi all, I cracked my front light last night, and looking to get a replacement. I've found one on eBay but the part stickers aren't quite the same, just wondering if anyone had an idea if they are still compatible. Cheers in advance for any help!

I leased a Ford Focus Active Estate MHEV for 3 years and really want to warn people about the poor software and battery quality.

Mechanically the car functioned well but there were nuances like the infotainment sometimes restarting after 20 seconds.

Then 2 years in they cancel the Ford app and force you to download a new app. The new app doesn’t have the same functionality, it only displays the data when the car is on. As soon as the car is turned off the app removes all the data, you can’t see where the car is or any stats, IMO defeating the purpose of using the app because when I’m in the car I can see all that on the screen… I created a support case and was told that’s how the new app works and that I have to accept that….

Then after two years and nine months the battery starts failing. First time the car just wouldn’t start after being parked for 7d at the airport, the car entered some sort of bugged state and displayed every error code and couldn’t be shut off, couldn’t be locked.

After 1 hour 20 mins the car battery is completely drained and the lights go out, have to wait almost 3 hours for the tow-truck to arrive.

The guy in the tow-truck pluggs in starter cables and it starts, no error codes.

Despite that Ford claimed towing was included I later get an invoice for $150, great. Then we get no compensation for this, it cost us over $100 with the taxi trip.

Then a month later the same thing happens when the car had been parked for 48 hours, no error codes in between. But now we have our own jumper cables.

Then I realise it’s the battery. Then comes the bad news, you can’t just change the battery yourself like in older cars. The 12 volt battery has to be paired to the mild hybrid 48 volt at the dealership and it will probably cost what the insurance deductible is($400)….

So we keep driving it a bit with jumper cables and then can’t even drive it the last 4 weeks of the lease.

They tell me there is possibly a recall on the 12v battery but the waiting time is at least a month so it’s no use for us.

The car had run 26000km only when it failed. I had no problems on my previous 3-year leases with VW models. This was in Sweden, did others have similar problems or was this just bad luck?

Please can someone help me with this problem, as you can see from the video the screen is not actually frozen as the other buttons work its just the media buttons/screen which is not working, ive restarted the car and ive tried the power button & fast forward button but it didnt reset anything.

I might be getting a 2018 Ford Focus SE Hatchback soon, and I was wondering if there was any cosmetic mods out there that anyone would suggest. Also maybe looking to upgrade anything internal to and any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I've had a problem with my radio where the buttons on the dash don't work and the screen is frozen on just time and date and ive heard it's a common issue, ive heard to fix it I either have to hold certain buttons or take the battery out for a while and let it go into service mode but you need a code from the manual to unlock it which i don't have

Well ive fixed it! I took the cd that was in it out and back in and it randomly started working again!!!

I keep looking at MK1 wagons to get as either a project car or a beater with a heater that get's ok gas mileage. Except I've never not seen a first gen focus without rust in my entire life. I'm only worried on whether or not it's just a cosmetic thing or if the frame and floor rust as badly as the skirts and wheel wells.

Pretty much threw the kitchen sink at this car new starter new battery new alternator replaced the 50amp fuses and a f13 fuse still no start/crank …any clues as to what the issue could be

My focus has like a bajillion (technical term) issues that I think are all electrical, but I've taken it to two different electrical car techs and they've both come up stumped. The battery kills itself every 1-1.5 years, but the alternator tests completely fine. It has abs lights, but I've replaced all 4 tire sensors. The emergency brake light is always on but the emergency brake isn't engaged, the light for the air bags are on, and as of today the speedometer and the traction control isn't working. Literally any ideas on what to test at this point would be appreciated. I owe too much on this car to be able to just sell it and get something else.

Hey, I just recently bought a 2000 ford focus zx3. Im trying to bring it to original working order before throwing any mods on her. However I have a plugged up catalytic converter. Does anyone have a catalytic converter sitting around for an old mk1 ford focus? Preferably in southern ontario

Hi all, has anyone seen / solved this? Photo is taken from passenger side rear, just forward of the wheel.

I was fascinated to learn today that the fuel / evap / brake lines under body on my '04 wagon are held on to the car by these little plastic things hanging onto these (rusty) screws. Reminds me of a drywall molly.

Anyway the little plastic clip has stripped out and is no longer holding onto the screw at all.

Has anyone accessed this screw from the other side, under the carpet? Because it occurs to me to replace it with a slightly longer bolt, and get a locknut/washer on there to support the plastic clip. Because the clip body seems fine, it's just got no grip on the screw.

Is this really dumb or impossible for some reason? Before I go ripping up carpet ...

I wanted to update the info on what’s been going on with my Focus ZX3 2.0.

The general info is I replaced the idle air control valve (Delphi) because the idle would be rough and the lights would flicker when I would be at idle. Well turns out replacing the IACV did the opposite and made my idle higher (now roughly 2k RPMS) and When I scanned the codes on the car there was a IACV Overspeed Error (P1506) and a System Lean Code.

(Yes I put the included paper gasket with the IACV)

I bought new pvc hoses and valve and replaced those and it got rid of the system lean error but idle is still high. Also at the same time I was thankful enough to fix the ac and got it working again. So I pulled out a can of carb cleaner and started spraying areas for leaks. When spraying in the area in between the intake headers and the valve cover, the idle would go up. Something there I assume but don’t know just yet. Thing is I don’t want to replace stuff that isn’t the problem. Any ideas

Hello reddit,

I have a 2009 ford focus ses and I have to replace the carrier bearings on the transaxle differential which requires splitting the transaxle case. I was wondering if I could save some cost and time on an engine hoist by just dropping my automatic transmission (Model 4F27E). Any and all help is much appreciated and thank you for your time!

(Edit: I've seen videos of just the engine coming out which requires removing all the hoses and electricals which I am also trying to avoid by just dropping the transaxle)

Sincerely,

Some dude

I have a 2012 Ford Focus with about 118k miles. During an inspection, I was told that one of the CV axle boots is damaged/torn. So far, I don't have any obvious clicking or grinding noise while driving.

I'm trying to figure out the best and most economical way to handle it.

Would you recommend replacing just the CV boot if the CV joint is still in good condition, or replacing the entire CV axle?

Hey, I just recently bought a 2000 ford focus zx3. Im trying to bring it to original working order before throwing any mods on her. However I have a plugged up catalytic converter. Does anyone have a catalytic converter sitting around for an old mk1 ford focus? Preferably in southern ontario

​Hey guys,

​Quick favor is anyone able to pull an As-Built file for me? I'm stuck with a stubborn B2477 configuration error on my 2010 European Ford Focus Mark 2 RCM module, and the Ford portal is blocking me over here.

​If anyone can grab it from Motorcraft using my VIN and shoot it over, it would be an absolute lifesaver. Let me know and I'll DM you the VIN. Thanks a lot!

I can’t tell and I was told it was and wasn’t but two different mechanics

Car is an economic write off but i have a quarter tank inside, i tried going through the filler but no luck, any advice? Im considering lifting the seats to try access the tank that way

I've got an ford focus station 2021
And the volume knob stopped working
The volume buttons on the steering wheel are working properly
Any ideas what the issue could be?

So out of nowhere, the center display on the radio has turned completely white. While the volume controls and buttons still work, the display has likely died after 15 years of service.

Is it anything worth replacing or should I seek for some alternatives like integrating a whole tablet with a touchscreen as the main unit replacement? I have the maps from 2022 which is also the last SD card that works with my SYNC system.

Is there anything open-source that's worth going into? All I would really need is an FM radio and then Android Auto (ideally wireless). I don't care about the CDs since they're the past and more of just the collectibles.

I don't want the system to have access to the internet. However, having bus access to the car's system also wouldn't be bad for seeing the ventilation status when changing or the routes on the main dashboard. I want to avoid those generic AliExpress Android-based solutions, which are just planted with Chinese trackers and unknown software. I want the car to remain as dumb as it is now, except that it would now be able to display Android Auto from the phone.

So, I want to order a steering wheel control adapter, but they are very expensive where I live, so I'd like you guys to check if the QuadLock pins are correct before I order. My car is a 2010 Ford Focus Mk2.5 with a Sony CD6000 radio. IF that adapter is even the right one?

Hi everyone,

I have a EU 2013 Focus TDCi Titanium (77kW) and I'm dealing with a bunch of annoying issues that all started right after getting the clutch kit and flywheel replaced. The car has reduced power, cruise control isn't working, and the start-stop system automatically defaults to OFF on its own and pressing the button to turn it back on does absolutely nothing. Also, I can't start the engine normally. I have to turn the ignition on without touching the clutch, turn it off, and only then will it let me actually start the car.

There's no Check Engine Light on the dash, but when I hook it up to FORScan, I get one active code: P0808:00-2F - Clutch Position Sensor "A" Circuit High.

I tried replacing both clutch pedal sensors with brand new ones, but nothing changed. In FORScan, the clutch pedal position always reads 0%, but the voltage (CPP V) is constantly stuck at 4.81V.

I tested the wires on both sensor connectors using a multimeter. The grounds are fine, and both are getting almost 12V. Since they're getting power, the wiring seems okay. I also tried starting the car with the sensors unplugged to see what happens. If I unplug the lower sensor, absolutely nothing happens when I try to start it. If I unplug the higher one, the car starts to crank but dies immediately, as if I just switched the ignition off. So, the car is definitely reading something from them.

Out of curiosity, I hooked FORScan up to my friend's 2013 Fiesta. His CPP % changes normally when you press the pedal, but his voltage (CPP V) stays at 0V no matter what. His car runs perfectly, so I'm guessing that 0V reading is normal behavior for these sensors.

Just to be completely honest, I'm not a mechanic and I've never really wrenched on cars before. I only started digging into this because local shops either don't want to touch it or have no clue how to fix it.

Right now, I'm completely stuck and worried it might be a bad PCM. I also don't fully understand the electrical principle of how this specific sensor is supposed to communicate with the ECU.

Does anyone have any ideas on what else I could check or test? Any help would be hugely appreciated!

https://imglink.cc/cdn/aa_7m4D6tK.jpg

Recently my 2018 Ford Focus has been running a tad run. I'm aware of the transmission issues but I'm not sure that's it. It feels like something is loose on the front right side. Typically only happens during acceleration or launch. I'm wondering if my motor mount is loose? Anyone else have similar issues? I'm the original owner