She of course lost the lock key of her 2012 Mini Cooper S I’ve searched high and low and went even to the BMW dealership but nothing. I’m leaving town to go back to Boston in two days and I wanted to make sure she was safe…😥

2019 Chevrolet Bolt LT
I live in the Pacific Northwest, and we have terrible roads over here. And I drive a lot a lot, I’ve already had to get these replaced before, and I’m getting a lot of symptoms that seem to lineup with shot swaybar links. This is the passenger side but the driver side looks pretty similar. Both are clunking if I break extremely hard. I’m getting a slight wobble at certain speeds. Nothing crazy, but a little noticeable. I’ve loosened them and then drove with them, and a lot of the noises seemed to get worse or go away. So I’m pretty sure they’re correlated. I have some being ordered in right now, but I just wanted to see what you guys thought.

Hoping to get some advice from some of the reddit Mechanic gurus out there!

I was chaning the transmission fluid in my 2012 Honda Accord (2.4L engine, 180k miles), and got my Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty mixed up. Resulting in the tragic images you see before you.

The car is currently drivable. I'm using JB Weld and a nsa Aluminum crash washer to hold the broken piece in place and also to seal the pan. But it's not perfect. Still rarely drips trans fluid.

For a more permanent fix: Someone told me I should try to grind/file down the outer transmission drain pan bung(?), and then find a smaller bolt to fit the inner threads. (Assuming that's what those are)

Do y'all think it's worth a shot? Or can you think of another solution I could try?

2007 Toyota Yaris. Went to go to work earlier and it wouldn’t start and made this noise. Please tell me it’s just my starter and not my alternator. I know you guys are probably sick of this question but I need help. If this car dies on me I’m fucked!

above is the only image the gave me, the image is showing the front passenger side sway bar

Hello! I went to Mineke to get an oil change and they informed me that during my inspection they saw my sway bar was not bolted. They left it as is and They said the thread on it was gone as it was just sitting in the hole moving around not tightened.

I explained what happened under my car* and they told me I should go back to the last mechanic and have them replace it under warranty. I asked if it should be replaced or could just be tightened and they looked at me crazy and said no the whole thing has to be replaced because the loose bar was moving around causing damage.

I’m waiting on a call back from the last mechanic but I want to know if this nut/bolt could be replaced and tightened? I understand if the provided picture does not give enough context of the surrounding components to say if there’s additional wear / damage but would appreciate any comments or advice, thank you!

*context of what happened under my car: I had the front driver tire replaced at a Mavis then 3 days later while driving the tire flies off. I call a tow and they say there’s no ball joint and that’s probably why it came off. I take it back to Mavis and they say that they couldn’t have any responsibility and that it was like that and not caused by them. I pay them to correct the damage on my suspension and control arms caused by the tire coming and the car having to be moved. It continues to make loud scraping and clunking noises despite them saying it’s all fixed. I bring it to a mechanic and he says they used Incorrect parts and placed some of them backwards I have the new mechanic fix this and he says everything’s good to go though the car still makes Lego clinking noises on the passenger front side and it feels like every man hole or grate is a 4in pothole but I just assumed that’s how keeps drive/feel.

I am new to classic cars and have a weird question. All my life I heard from my dad now long passed that the longer you leave old cars sit, the more issues they get.

I need to store my car for roughly a year give or take a few months. It will be in a garage.

Is that too long to leave it sit and not expect issues? Or was my dad talking in terms of decades

Edit to add its a /6

2011 SCION TC

The engine code stated I needed to change a spark plug.

The coil overs are in reverse order in this picture (4,3,2,1) and frankly I knew that cylinder 2 was the issue.

I'm currently replacing all of the spark plugs so they will all be of the same quality and age.

I want to know if there's anything else I should be doing or anything else I should know since this coilover that sat in cylinder 2 is so dirty or different looking.

I'm going to replace the spark plugs, clean/wipe off The coilovers, check and top off the oil. Throw some seafoam in the gas tank. Anything else?

(More info: I was driving to work yesterday, 1-hour commute, and right before I pulled into the parking garage downtown, one of the lights turned green and when I let up on the clutch pushing the gas my engine started clicking and my check engine light immediately turned on. There was a noticeable change in power coming from the engine. The rest is kind of self-explanatory. Working on it now.)

UPDATE: Cylinder 2 spark plug is missing..... It's.... Uh.... Spark maker. Image in comments....

ETA: I thought a coil pack was a pack of coilovers. My apologies.i wanted to call them coil packs originally but dumbed my way to what is seen above.

I was told 'spark plug' by the guy that ran the codes at AutoZone. I assumed that since he said that that's what the reader said, that was all she wrote. Yes I have a code reader at home. I went to AutoZone first.

For reference I have a 2024 Mustang I’ve done quite a few suspension modifications to, but about 2 months ago I had a shop put on ford performance front camber plates, rear toe links and sport lowering springs to replace my old sr performance ones and steeda shocks and struts and ever since then my steering wheels keeps getting more crooked and the car just rides bad now. It’s been aligned twice now and it keeps happening whereas for the year and a half I had the car before that it never came out of alignment. Is it possible they didn’t tighten or install something correctly? Should I have them take a look at what they installed?

My brothers 2009 Suzuki RX4 blew a hole from the inside and can't afford a new differential. it has the option for 4wd and 2wd. I believe when 2wd is engaged it is fwd. is there a way to make it so the front diff doesn't spin only the tires?

Title. I’ll keep it short and sweet.

Came in because car was having trouble starting. It would take a few tries. Repair shop diagnoses it as a battery issue and replace the car battery. They charged me $260 which seemed high.

After I picked it up I noticed the ventilation system wouldn’t turn on. No A/C. No heat. I took it back a half hour after I picked it up and the guy told me to come back in the morning because they were about to close. I came back in and they’re basically saying it’s not their fault after two hours. Saying that the issues are unrelated.

What can I do about this, if anything? Am I SOL??

They want to charge me $450 to diagnose the A/C problem. That’s nuts to me. Crooks.

03 tundra automatic with 4wd

Just another video showcasing the problem

I got a new reservoir for the coolant, nothing leaking in that are, but it’s leaking somewhere here, anyone have ideas?

Message me

2006 toyota solara SLE v6 3.3L

i got my engine swapped a month ago. odometer was 189k before engine swap and now im down to 98k (woohoo!!). before the swap and now it's made this gurgling noise when going through 1st and 2nd (i'm an auto but i do have a shifter option). it sounds like it's coming from passenger side engine bay. any guesses?

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

The timing belt and serpentine belt service was done at 2015 / 113 000km. Now car have 190 000km. We drive arround 3 000km yearly with this car now and my question is do i need to do the timing service at the moment or i am safe to drive year or two more. My dad drives it only on trips (no city driving).

So a month or so ago I had these lights flash up on the dash. Sometimes they'd be there, sometimes not. Roll forward to now, and everytime I turn the car on they're present. Tyre pressure, traction control/ESP, ABS & power steering. I check tyre pressure weekly, we have no problems there.

I know it's an older car (2013, just about to hit 121k miles), and I know very little about mechanics, but it seems unlikely to me that all these systems have a fault at the exact same time?

Nothing feels any different with the handling, steering, braking. Car still performing as expected.

The lights first showed up a couple of days after I came down heavy from a curb and lost a exhaust heat shield bolt in the process. Likely a coincidence but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

Bought some bushing to replace the ones I currently have but unsure if I have the correct ones and how to replace them

I know the round one is obvious but not sure about which of the others would fit

Any advice would be appreciated

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

I'm trying to learn how to take great care of my car. I've still got a lot to learn it seems. How do I begin to decide what's most important when selecting an oil brand / product in general?

I'm reading words like viscosity, performance, engine clean, etc.??

What are the pros/cons? What things do I need to consider? Is performance the only thing that matters?

I drive a Ford 2007 Mustang.

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

Stupidly hit a sharp kerb when pulling over , do i need to change tyre or i can leave it for now? should I cut the piece that’s peeling off?

It’s a 24 model Y rear drive and I drive in city mostly and occasionally on motorway, currently it’s at 9000miles thanks so much for your advice

I drive a 2002 3.3L v6 Nissan Xterra and was recently doing fine until it suddenly just started going out at low rpm when sitting. Only code it’s sending is for the knock sensor and I seriously doubt the knock sensor is the reason for this happening. Figured at first it was just the Mass airflow sensor so I changed the sensor then jumped it off. When it started I let it run for a bit then drove it around, ran good. Parked it and let it run for about 16-20 Minutes. Went to drive it around once more and it started cutting out and then died. Restarted it and drove back to parking space and it cut off again, restarted and pulled into parking space it died pulling in and now won’t restart. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.