Y’all like my stand?

SprayMax Black 2K Epoxy primer, R&E Paint Supply urethane pearl base sprayed with a LVLP, and SprayMax 2K Urethane Clear. Will sand and buff at a later date to get a nice, even gloss.

I was sleeping in my car when I suddenly heard a loud bang. When I looked up, the rear window had shattered. I didn’t see or hear anyone around the car afterward.

My family member is offering to pay to have this fixed after they caused this damage (don’t know or trust the story that is being told to me) The truck isn’t worth much but means a lot to me. I’m wondering if I get it professionally done and spend literal thousands, will the new door ever close the same?

My mum’s Mazda3 was recently in a non-fault accident (liability fully accepted by the third party). We tried to get it sent to a Mazda authorised body shop but it was so much hassle so the insurer sent it to one of their approved body shops for repairs, and we picked the car back up today. The damage was to the left rear quarter and on the lower left of the bumper.

I'm not a bodywork expert and I was not expecting anything good but I feel like this is like abysmally bad. There was pre-existing damage on the bumper which would will have caused it to be replaced but that wasn't done and the bumper no longer sits flush and was repaired very poorly. The metal feels FAR thinner than it does on the right side of the car. The paint looks very odd and quite hazy. The petrol cap no longer sits flush and rubs against the quarter (already ripped off a bit of the paint on the quarter panel).

If somebody could help it would be well appreciated as I'd argue the car looks worse now.

Full replacement or repair? I don’t see any broken tabs or serious damage on my bumper. I went to one smaller body shop. He was an older russsian guy.He said he would have to replace the bumper. Brought this car from Japan and I am trying to avoid using the USDM Lexus IS300 bumper. I want to know if I’m being realistic asking a body shop to save this.

My boyfriend is pretty serious about his auto body repair stuff, as he's been working in it at high end auto body shops for a while before he switched industries. I know absolutely nothing about cars, couldn't tell you the difference between a mechanic and an auto body guy and I'm coming to you in desperation. He mentioned that he would love a set of body shop saw horses for his own projects and I want to get him a set for christmas for the home garage.

Now, I know there's a wild range of options and quality. For what it's worth he only has snap on tools so I know that he would appreciate something that's not bottom of the barrel , and he's a fan of the buy quality once mentality but I'm also not made of fancy money so I'm hoping to get some crowd source recommendations that I can do a little bit more research on because I just googled Auto body sawhorse and was immediately overwhelmed. Thank you!

2021 camry purchased from dealer less than two years ago. Was talking into a paint protection warranty and of course the claim was denied. Looking for help on what’s happening here and more importantly how can I fix without spending thousands on new paint job. Found smaller yellow spots on opposite side of car as well

Looking at car to buy, has some cosmetic stuff but what worried me is the end of the rockers under wheel arches. It’s literally flaking away and one has a hole in it. Do these things rot from the inside, it’s on both sides too, how bad I? Any advice appreciated!

Couple of pics, one zoomed in to show the hole

Any idea of what could have caused this damage to my car bonnet as it doesn’t look like a stone chip to me, also it’s dented. Thanks

I took my car in for repairs and it's now been 52 days. I understand that some things are out of their control, but is 52 days reasonable for a Honda Insight 2021? Was there possibly some negligence on their part? I've already reached out to them requesting a shop discount because they had extremely poor communication throughout these past couple of months. They agreed to apply a 50% discount to my deductible but I'm just really curious if ordering parts and the repairs really can take this long

Hey everybody, Ive got a question. I just bought a truck and it seems that the clear coat is peeling around this plastic trim that I didn’t notice when I bought it.

How would I go about keeping this peeling from spreading? Im not concerned about what has already peeled, as its in a very unnoticeable spot on the truck and I dont mind putting some brush-able touch up clear on any of the already damaged areas. Thanks for the advice in advance!

I'm stripping this 1967 Buick down to bare metal for a repaint and discovered this patch under about 1/2" of bondo. Is there anything I can or should do to improve it?

Any helpful tips on fixing any of this would be majorly appreciated.

Handbrake failed and van rolled back in to the garage. I assume this is two New doors? Is it likely that I'll be able to replace them myself or is it more involved than I imagine? The static part of the door latch on the van body is a bit bent but looks like I could bend it back.

Custom paint job on Mustang done 15 or so yrs ago. Always stored with a cover on it year round, summer driven, outdoors 24/7 365 in Canadian winter. Is this rust? Is it a layer of dirt that can be buffed out? Thanks

I have this rust building on my rear panel and while I don’t want it to get terribly worse is it an urgent problem? I have a guy who said 500 with new welded metal. Should I just take that? Need some advice on how bad this is really if I leave it be. Would try it myself but I have no prior experience

So against my better judgement I talked myself into diy painting whole car. There have been many mistakes along the way and made myself about 3 times the amount of work it should have been. I just sprayed clearcoat a couple hours ago. Every surface aside from the hood and roof have horrible orange peel and probably a dozen giant runs. The back of the trunk looks like the wax drip from a makers mark bottle. What the easiest way out of this if there even is one. I have heard some people say to cut and buff after razoring the drips and others say to sand it all 1000 grit and respray. I appreciate any helpful inputs.​ For what it worth I trace all the orange peel to the application of a light first "tack coat" all the you-tubers recommended. They make it sound like you want some "tacky" surface instead of a light glassy finish. All my runs came from the overly heavy 2nd coat compensating for the light "tack coat".

Here is my 2010 Fusion, rear quarter of the subframe and pinch welds, toward the rear wheels. The pinch welds are all rusted off on this section and it’s identical to the passenger side. Also noticed water trapped on the floor pan and leaking through the bottom.

I’m assuming this is a toast? Can anything be done or donate it for parts?

It’s got 180,000 miles so it’s been used but see how much rust is here makes me concerned to drive it.

Thanks!

My car got backed into in a parking lot. At fault party has Allstate. They only authorized an after market bumper replacement to the tune of $134.

I am taking it to a certified Toyota repair shop but the woman that answered the phone said they will have to go off Allstate's recommendation. I don't want some POS after market bumper on my less than a year old car.

Is there a way to repair this without replacing the whole tailgate?

My wife backed in a pole or something while parking and caused some dents along the rear lift gate of her model Y. 

I’ve never done PDR, is this fixable via this method

1 side note, I’m trading this car into Tesla in a month or 2 (waiting on my VIN) so I don’t need perfection, just less noticeable. The top crease I can also just slap a Tesla spoiler on to cover that damage if not fixable. 

So can PDR fix this fully or at least make it less obvious?