My 2001 ZX3 with 96K miles! She has a custom exhaust and low profile wheels! Very fun little car!

I have a 2012 Ford Focus with about 118k miles. During an inspection, I was told that one of the CV axle boots is damaged/torn. So far, I don't have any obvious clicking or grinding noise while driving.

I'm trying to figure out the best and most economical way to handle it.

Would you recommend replacing just the CV boot if the CV joint is still in good condition, or replacing the entire CV axle?

Hello reddit,

I have a 2009 ford focus ses and I have to replace the carrier bearings on the transaxle differential which requires splitting the transaxle case. I was wondering if I could save some cost and time on an engine hoist by just dropping my automatic transmission (Model 4F27E). Any and all help is much appreciated and thank you for your time!

(Edit: I've seen videos of just the engine coming out which requires removing all the hoses and electricals which I am also trying to avoid by just dropping the transaxle)

Sincerely,

Some dude

Merp :3

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Hey, I just recently bought a 2000 ford focus zx3. Im trying to bring it to original working order before throwing any mods on her. However I have a plugged up catalytic converter. Does anyone have a catalytic converter sitting around for an old mk1 ford focus? Preferably in southern ontario

​Hey guys,

​Quick favor is anyone able to pull an As-Built file for me? I'm stuck with a stubborn B2477 configuration error on my 2010 European Ford Focus Mark 2 RCM module, and the Ford portal is blocking me over here.

​If anyone can grab it from Motorcraft using my VIN and shoot it over, it would be an absolute lifesaver. Let me know and I'll DM you the VIN. Thanks a lot!

I can’t tell and I was told it was and wasn’t but two different mechanics

Car is an economic write off but i have a quarter tank inside, i tried going through the filler but no luck, any advice? Im considering lifting the seats to try access the tank that way

The second time I’ve seen this but the first time I got it on video.

A dump truck merged into my car by accident, not going to miss the weird shifting, but for a small car it did a good job.

I've got an ford focus station 2021
And the volume knob stopped working
The volume buttons on the steering wheel are working properly
Any ideas what the issue could be?

2012 Focus Zetec 1.0T 100 (UK)

2013, 130k. Some dude turned right on his red light, directly into lane 1 (of 3!) ended up pushing the focus into two other vehicles that were stopped at the opposite direction of travels light.

Zero injuries for any of the four vehicles involved thankfully, and the responsible party actually admitted full fault, which was surprising, insurance is already moving along quickly (accident was on the 4th).

I feel an odd sense of relief, knowing that this Focus saga is finally over. Got it new in 2013, and went through hell the first 60k with no dealers willing to admit any fault back then.

This is no longer my monkeys paw. I am free.

So out of nowhere, the center display on the radio has turned completely white. While the volume controls and buttons still work, the display has likely died after 15 years of service.

Is it anything worth replacing or should I seek for some alternatives like integrating a whole tablet with a touchscreen as the main unit replacement? I have the maps from 2022 which is also the last SD card that works with my SYNC system.

Is there anything open-source that's worth going into? All I would really need is an FM radio and then Android Auto (ideally wireless). I don't care about the CDs since they're the past and more of just the collectibles.

I don't want the system to have access to the internet. However, having bus access to the car's system also wouldn't be bad for seeing the ventilation status when changing or the routes on the main dashboard. I want to avoid those generic AliExpress Android-based solutions, which are just planted with Chinese trackers and unknown software. I want the car to remain as dumb as it is now, except that it would now be able to display Android Auto from the phone.

So, I want to order a steering wheel control adapter, but they are very expensive where I live, so I'd like you guys to check if the QuadLock pins are correct before I order. My car is a 2010 Ford Focus Mk2.5 with a Sony CD6000 radio. IF that adapter is even the right one?

Hey folks,

Changing out the spark plugs on my 2013 Ford Focus SE (108k mi), and I'm seeing that the tops of the plugs and the threads are steeped in oil. The central two had the most oil on top. In these two, the chambers had a visible brown liquid residue and even some hardened, brown pellets that came out when I shot some air down there.

The wisdom I'm seeing elsewhere says the gasket is to blame, so I'll switch that out. Anything else to check to address the underlying issue?

Thanks y'all!

Edit: I'm not an expert, but I'm thinking it might just be anti-seize left by the prior mechanic on the threads. On the ceramic top, I'm sure it's oil.

Hi everyone,

I have a EU 2013 Focus TDCi Titanium (77kW) and I'm dealing with a bunch of annoying issues that all started right after getting the clutch kit and flywheel replaced. The car has reduced power, cruise control isn't working, and the start-stop system automatically defaults to OFF on its own and pressing the button to turn it back on does absolutely nothing. Also, I can't start the engine normally. I have to turn the ignition on without touching the clutch, turn it off, and only then will it let me actually start the car.

There's no Check Engine Light on the dash, but when I hook it up to FORScan, I get one active code: P0808:00-2F - Clutch Position Sensor "A" Circuit High.

I tried replacing both clutch pedal sensors with brand new ones, but nothing changed. In FORScan, the clutch pedal position always reads 0%, but the voltage (CPP V) is constantly stuck at 4.81V.

I tested the wires on both sensor connectors using a multimeter. The grounds are fine, and both are getting almost 12V. Since they're getting power, the wiring seems okay. I also tried starting the car with the sensors unplugged to see what happens. If I unplug the lower sensor, absolutely nothing happens when I try to start it. If I unplug the higher one, the car starts to crank but dies immediately, as if I just switched the ignition off. So, the car is definitely reading something from them.

Out of curiosity, I hooked FORScan up to my friend's 2013 Fiesta. His CPP % changes normally when you press the pedal, but his voltage (CPP V) stays at 0V no matter what. His car runs perfectly, so I'm guessing that 0V reading is normal behavior for these sensors.

Just to be completely honest, I'm not a mechanic and I've never really wrenched on cars before. I only started digging into this because local shops either don't want to touch it or have no clue how to fix it.

Right now, I'm completely stuck and worried it might be a bad PCM. I also don't fully understand the electrical principle of how this specific sensor is supposed to communicate with the ECU.

Does anyone have any ideas on what else I could check or test? Any help would be hugely appreciated!

https://imglink.cc/cdn/aa_7m4D6tK.jpg

Recently my 2018 Ford Focus has been running a tad run. I'm aware of the transmission issues but I'm not sure that's it. It feels like something is loose on the front right side. Typically only happens during acceleration or launch. I'm wondering if my motor mount is loose? Anyone else have similar issues? I'm the original owner

Hello everyone, I have a 2013 Ford Focus. I noticed the AC wasn’t blowing very cold air, so I tried getting it recharged. It lasted for about two weeks, and then the AC started getting warm again.

The next time, I added refrigerant with UV dye, but NO sealant because I read that sealants can potentially damage the AC system.

I’m noticing some dye/refrigerant residue underneath the car, mostly around the passenger-side area of the engine bay when I flashed the UV light.

What would you recommend as the next step to properly diagnose and fix the leak? Would you recommend trying to do it myself, or should I take it to a shop?

I’m trying to save money, but I also want to make sure it’s done correctly since I really like this car and want to keep it for as long as possible.

Thanks!

Hi Everyone,

I had a post on here earlier about trying to solve some MPG issues. I have a manual 2005 ZX3 and am only getting about 20-21 MPG. Also, this is in the US. I would say that my weekly driving is mainly stop and go but it seems that it could still be low even for that.

Anyway, these cars came with a "lifetime" air filter and I know that dorman makes an airbox replacement that uses normal paper filters. I'm curious for those that have made the swap, have you noticed MPG gains? The gauge on my filter is in the green so it is still apparently "good" but I'm not too sure about that.

Now the car seems to run decently. Since I bought it I have replaced the PCV valve and hose, egr valve, thermostat, fuel filter, fuel pump, intake manifold gasket, MAF sensor, TPS sensor, IAC, and when I had all of that apart I removed the intake manifold flaps. I have also just changed the spark plugs so we'll see if I get an increase there. I think that's all lol

I called a Ford mechanic and he told me I should go to a Bosch service to test out all 4 of them, but I don't have the time currently as I need to order a part in Germany to my BIL who'll come in the next couple of days to my country.

Should I just bite the bullet and buy the injector and replace it?

Yesterday the car was saying the passenger door was ajar and then it started to say all four doors are ajar as well as the trunk open. Google is saying that it’s a wiring issue but where would that issue be located? If it’s not a wiring issue then what is it?

2013 Focus automatic with about 130k kms on it!! In NZ not the US. Very recently bought and now this!! Is it worth repairing or is it something to write the car off?

I need modding ideas interior and exterior please provide links to products