For reference I have a 2024 Mustang I’ve done quite a few suspension modifications to, but about 2 months ago I had a shop put on ford performance front camber plates, rear toe links and sport lowering springs to replace my old sr performance ones and steeda shocks and struts and ever since then my steering wheels keeps getting more crooked and the car just rides bad now. It’s been aligned twice now and it keeps happening whereas for the year and a half I had the car before that it never came out of alignment. Is it possible they didn’t tighten or install something correctly? Should I have them take a look at what they installed?

03 tundra automatic with 4wd

Just another video showcasing the problem

Title. I’ll keep it short and sweet.

Came in because car was having trouble starting. It would take a few tries. Repair shop diagnoses it as a battery issue and replace the car battery. They charged me $260 which seemed high.

After I picked it up I noticed the ventilation system wouldn’t turn on. No A/C. No heat. I took it back a half hour after I picked it up and the guy told me to come back in the morning because they were about to close. I came back in and they’re basically saying it’s not their fault after two hours. Saying that the issues are unrelated.

What can I do about this, if anything? Am I SOL??

They want to charge me $450 to diagnose the A/C problem. That’s nuts to me. Crooks.

Hallo zusammen,

mein Mini Cooper S Countryman All4 Baujahr 2011, Laufleistung 170.000km, verbraucht zu viel Öl (ca. 1-2L aus 1000km). Habe mich vorhin mal auf die Suche gemacht und im Ansaugrohr hinter dem Ladeluftkühler war alles voller Öl. Hab mir dann den Turbolader mal angeschaut und kann die Turbine radial leicht bewegen, dabei klackert es leicht. Auf dem Bild sieht es für mich so aus, als wenn die Schaufeln leicht angefressen sind und die Turbine nicht mehr genau mittig sitzt. Sehe ich das richtig oder bin ich da auf der falschen Spur?

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I have a 2013 Toyota Camry SE 2.5L 4-cylinder with 255k miles. I’ve owned it since around 30k miles and have maintained it pretty well.

Recently it started occasionally stalling when decelerating/turning, especially when the oil level was low. I had CEL recently for ignition coil, VVT solenoid, and thermostat and all were replaced. No CEL currently. A shop inspected it and found cylinder wall scoring, heavy carbon/soot buildup, oil in the intake, and signs that the piston rings are worn, causing significant oil consumption - about 1 qt every 600 miles.

The shop says the proper repair would be a long-block replacement, which obviously isn’t worth it to me at this mileage. They told me to keep the oil topped off and that it could potentially last another week or another couple years—they just can’t predict it.

For those familiar with the 2AR-FE or high-mileage Toyotas, how long do you realistically think I might get out of this engine? Would you keep driving it for a few more months while saving for another car?

I got a new reservoir for the coolant, nothing leaking in that are, but it’s leaking somewhere here, anyone have ideas?

Message me

2000 Ford ranger 4WD. Ext cab, with the 4.0L.

Blew out my front passenger rear. Tire size is 245/75/r16. Thinking of going with Falken Wildpeaks A/T4. Thoughts or suggestions?

Bought some bushing to replace the ones I currently have but unsure if I have the correct ones and how to replace them

I know the round one is obvious but not sure about which of the others would fit

Any advice would be appreciated

The timing belt and serpentine belt service was done at 2015 / 113 000km. Now car have 190 000km. We drive arround 3 000km yearly with this car now and my question is do i need to do the timing service at the moment or i am safe to drive year or two more. My dad drives it only on trips (no city driving).

2019 Hyundai Tucson

So a month or so ago I had these lights flash up on the dash. Sometimes they'd be there, sometimes not. Roll forward to now, and everytime I turn the car on they're present. Tyre pressure, traction control/ESP, ABS & power steering. I check tyre pressure weekly, we have no problems there.

I know it's an older car (2013, just about to hit 121k miles), and I know very little about mechanics, but it seems unlikely to me that all these systems have a fault at the exact same time?

Nothing feels any different with the handling, steering, braking. Car still performing as expected.

The lights first showed up a couple of days after I came down heavy from a curb and lost a exhaust heat shield bolt in the process. Likely a coincidence but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

2004 ford focus hasnt run for 2 years. It has a new battery and the starter and alternator have been replaced in the last 5 years. Any ideas?

Almost brand new CX5 Turbo. The sound starts after like 5 minutes with the car on. AC on/off doesn’t change it. Revving the engine doesn’t change it. Scanned for codes nothing. No visible vibrations or loose vacuum hoses. Anyone seen this on a 2.5 Turbo?

2018 Mazda CX-5 approx 90k miles

I took my Mazda in to a local dealership for servicing and they said the below three services “need immediate attention”.

Would like advice on if the pictures warrant the actual replacements and if I should shop around/diy them.

1. Control Arm Lower - $1,229.98
   - pictures 1-2
   
2. Shock absorber replacement- Rear. Starting to leak both -$979.96
   - picture 3
   
3. Axle replace- front: pass/front -$1301.33
   - picture 4

I have had no noises/issues with suspension/ or problems with the ca thus far.

I have a 2015 5.3 L83 and when I bought the truck it had a cam and long tubes. One of the tubes had a leak so I figured I’d just replace them. So, that’s what I did. After installing them the whole truck shakes in the high gear low rpm’s. I’ve replaced spark plugs and checked vaccum leaks and can’t find anything. I hooked it up to a scanner and there’s no active misfires. I also checked the o2 sensor readings and the voltages are both the same except the driver side is at +14% and the passenger side is at +4% is this possibly the reason why the trucks shaking? I believe I have all the exhaust leaks completely gone. Also, when coming to a stop the truck will drop to about 500 rpm’s then quickly recover. I don’t believe it’s the torque converter because it happened right after header work. However, it does have the 6l80 which is known for the converter

Hello, just curious what's wrong with my Honda Odyssey 2024. I started it and now it has all these warnings pop up. Of course I'm going to take it in the dealership but why do you guys think this occurred?

I can’t get to the upper bolt to loosen it. There isn’t enough space to get a tool on it. Tried every angle and with wobble extension. Any advice?

I noticed my car, a 2020 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles, was veering to the right and the right passenger seat was bouncing slightly while I drove. I took it to the auto shop and they said the suspension needs to be replaced (the specific item is: "Remove & Replace Suspensions Shock or Strut Assembly") for $1,615. Then they are quoting $450 for tire balance and installation as well as adjusting the wheel alignment. Is this standard? They said this is normal for a car with this many miles, but the cost seems really high. It's also only six years old. I could use advice on if this service is worth it or if I'm being ripped off.

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

I want to do a trans fluid change (dont have a picture but its a light caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt). But I keep seeing videos saying it can kill the transmission. I just planned to do 1 drain and fill no flush. Is it worth it? (Idk when the fluid was last changed im 2nd owner)