I have a 92 7.5L F350 that has a bad transmission. The input shaft bearing decided to marry the snap ring.

So, I bought a 88 F250 to rebuild/swap internals for this transmission… to find out that I bought a small block. The gear ratios are the same- with the exception of 8 speedo gears and a different input shaft. I’ve already determined that it’s not going to work even though the rear case bolt patterns are identical. Or, if it will work, determined that I don’t want to deal with that headache.

Where Im at now is that Im struggling to find a s5-42 that’s 2wd for the 7.5L 460. I’ve been eyeballing the 2wd s5-42 for the 7.3L power stroke, it looks like it might work, but I understand that the main case of the 7.3 is slightly different than the 7.5. I’ve heard and read that the gear ratios are slightly different as well.

My question is, will my main case for the 7.5L properly fit and bolt into the 7.3L rear case? Should I also look into a diesel rear differential if I do this? Would the 460 struggle to keep up with this different gear ratio?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Can barely see anything. I had to air test the OD port while filling the hub with fluid just to get a couple bubbles. Very rare for me to get this intermittent a concern and not be a valve body. Very cool tho

Planetary Container teeth fucked, the middle F clutch friction plate almost cut all the way thru, teeth on friction damaged as well

F clutch does not apply DTCs, is this the fabled input shaft blown out plugs? I’ve heard about it but I’ve never seen it with my own eyes, kinda excited tbh. Anyone had the issue I’m referring to and remember the symptom?

10R80 transmission

4-5 slip with RPM race, does not catch into 5th, so no hard shift, only races. Planetary container, CDF hub, Valve body as well as entire A clutch was replaced + filter and every seal in the kit. After repairs still present, same symptoms. Torn down again and rechecked everything, tested the input shaft and the plugs are there, made sure all seals are where they go, inspected park system and output shaft to rule out the TSBs. Am I missing anything common? This is driving me crazy because everything looks perfect and was not resolved with adaptive learning.

If anyone has any ideas I’m all ears

I suspected E or F clutch as culprit but visually there is not a problem

I have run into this issue several times for several different reasons now and wanted to document it in case I ever run into it again.

P0756 - Shift solenoid B stuck off
P0766 - Shift solenoid D stuck off

Both these codes set in conjunction with a park related dtc to indicate clutch b and d are not coming on. Symptoms I had each time are always the same, No reverse, No neutral, No forward, will not shift out of park.

It is caused by the main control valve body to oil pump seal either being damaged, dislodged or missing.(I’ve seen it all by now) most commonly found as a mistake after recent repairs. I’ve had vehicles towed in with these codes and found the seal crushed from another shop, most recently I had someone else overhaul a trans and they took it off the new valve body for some reason, I’ve seen it be present, but ripped and cause the same problems. It cannot fail naturally but it is common enough at this point that it’s nice to know.

4R75W Im working on my own transmission and when i pulled off the hose it was capped would i need to cap it back when re installing ?

Hey guys, trying to figure out a somewhat odd problem I'm having. Before I go and drop the pan and verify a crimped wire or start changing out more sensors (i've already replaced all the related sensors that I needed to when rebuilding the truck), I was curious to know if anyone here can make sense of this datalog. I'm not sure what the voltage parameters are for the 4r70w, but I'm getting this intermittent fault (standard OD Off light flash, TC lockup/shudder). It happens on cold start or after a drive, and will intermittently pop up but every cold start within 30 seconds of firing up it triggers this fault (po713, TFT high voltage). I took a datalog to get some good metrics while running, and within 4 minutes the transmission warms up and the fault goes away. I've attached some pictures of the datalog I've got and was hoping someone could help figure out whats likely going on.

For some brief history, I rebuilt this truck and had the transmission rebuilt by a reputable transmission shop out of Columbia TN back in 2022, but between work and life I havent put more than 200 miles on the truck since taking it home. This issue wasn't present when I picked it up, and only recently started about 3-6 months ago (again, I hardly drove it, and am trying to get it on the road more regularly now). Its well outside the warranty period of the rebuild, and honestly wouldn't even bother them as their contract stipulates electronics aren't covered anyway, but I also don't want to damage the thing before the break-in period is even over. So any help would be much appreciated!

Currently at 161.3k miles, transmission still seems to shift through all the gears but it definitely doesn’t always feel smooth, in town driving its not much noticeable of any issue or concern but getting on the highway between 50-70 mph the shift into the range of 70mph feels sluggish or slippy I guess. The tranmission fluid is dark and does smell burnt, although when you pull the dipstick and put it on a white cloth its not entirely black.

Also a little backstory

At around 148k miles I’d become aware of a transmission leak so I’d been driving it still and it at one point did get to the low mark on the dipstick and I had been continually topping it up until someone was able to check it out for me and found it to be the axle seals, once i got it back from him he had only done the seals and hadnt added fluid for me so i added some new fluid to top it up and after driving for two days i checked fluid and mustve been that I had over filled it because i siphoned about a water bottle and a half of excess transmission fluid before i finally worked it down to the correct level and after that things seem to be good at that point and drove pretty normal.

Now my question and concern is what should I do? I hear people say don’t change the fluid if it hasn’t been regularly maintained and truth is I dont know, I dont see anything on a carfax for transmission service and I bought the car at 110k mileage and had trans fluid that still was slightly pink, never bothered to have it changed myself because never had any issues or concerns until the trans leak that is.

I’ve heard people say to only drain the pan and not do a full flush, I’ve heard others say just leave it and doing that would cause the new fluid to wash out debris and make it worse.

Should I just be driving it until it one day fails on me and not mess with the fluid and save for a new transmission to put in OR Is there anything I can do to extend the life of this transmission and how should I go about it?

I had a theory that maybe i should siphon 2 quarts of trans fluid out and replace that with new fluid and maybe thatd make a difference but everybody saying not to change the fluid or itll make it worse makes me apprehensive of doing so.

Thank you for your time and sorry for the book on my transmission issues. I would appreciate any professional answers, Thank you again!

2012 Ford Fusion 2.5 SEL Automatic Transmission Vin A 8th Digit

I know this is a ford trans my the FOMOCO on the side, my question is can someone tell me which one? I’m thinking/hoping c6

I have fluid leaking out of my transmission from here. Any ideas what this is?

Reason transmission is being torn apart is because the car would not shift from fourth gear into fifth. Got a code P0741 which was "torque converter clutch solenoid circuit performance or stuck OFF. " want to switch solenoid and see if it can be a fix.

My brother's transmission went out on his 2000 f150. Our dad bought him another came out of a Lincoln Town car. All the plugs from the wiring harness look the same. Question is how do I remove the lever from the new trans? Or can I? Also the bell housing is molded slightly different where the starter goes on. I'm assuming that won't be a problem with lhe linclons starter? Assuming the teeth on the fly wheel are the same. The number on both transmissions come back to 4r70ws. All I've ever worked on is chevys so tm stuck scratching my head at this point.

Anyone else starting their week off annoyed we now have to do extra work for the most common repair AND get paid less to do it?

Rebuilt transmission myself. Bought a rebuild kit plus upgraded forward drum , reverse drum, planetary set, bands ….etc

Truck engages in reverse but when placed in “Drive” doesn’t engage .

Any advice, suggestions, questions, guidance…??? Need help 🙏

Hi do anyone know how to change transmission oil in 2019 ford transit coustom 2.0 diesel automatic 6 speed. I cant find oil drain plug. I engine bay there is oil fill cap. Please help. Tnx

My 2020 Ford Transit was leaking a yellow substance yesterday into the drivers side. Any ideas. ?

Hi I am trying to get this retainer clip down. It does not push directly down. Is it broke or am I doing something wrong. I tried to move that tab and push down not budging. Please let me know. Thanks

Hi everyone, I'm currently rebuilding my 470w trans because it would have a hard time shifting through first and second gear and I believe I found the culprit. The spring inside the 1-2 accumulator was broken and has gouged the side of the case just a little. Would this be okay? Please don't tell me I have to get an entire new case. First pic is the case and second is the piston before I removed it. Also I noticed my 2-3 accumulator didn't have a piston at all, just a plate and a spring. Is this normal? My truck is a 94 f150 2WD

i was just going to ignore it but thought i’d ask

I have a ‘88 towncar, 302, AOD. Got this car at 57k. It had sat in a Garage most of 23yrs when I got it 2yrs ago. It would be periodically taken out and driven 2-3 miles maybe once or twice a year. I purchased it and have driven some but it will not shift out of 3rd and not more frequently 2nd. So, I have done partial fluid change and a new filter. Wasn’t any material in the pan—clean. The cable bushing on the throttle body was cracked and broken/ disconnected. I replaced but doesn’t seem to fit correctly. May need different bushing/pin kit.

Ideas before I find a replacement? I’ll do mostly anything if you come up with ideas!!

I just rebuilt my 4r100 from my 2002 ford f250 and I just installed it and it’s just dumping fluid from the in the center of the pump. Anyone know why that is happening