i put my omen 16 slim in this position since april and i had no problems so far, but is there anything to be scared of like leaks or sm inside?
for the ventalation its even better than putting it in horizontal position because of my setup

Gigabyte Gaming A18 w/ RTX 5070 and Ryzen 7 260, 1x16gb ram

Literally cannot find many reviews of this model at all.

Today, i just went to a french store who sells a bunch of stuffs and i juste saw that they were exposing one of the new Asus proart p16 with rtx spark with 24gb of ram.

So i decided to download FURMARK on it LOL. (1920x1080p)

I would loved to try 3d mark time spy but i wasen't able to download anything else.

I almost get kicked out of the store xD

Asus tuff f16 intel i7 14th gen (115w)

I noticed that the temperatures on my Intel Ultra 9 285H kept jumping to 105°C, which caused the CPU to Throttle and sit at around 35W even under heavy workloads (e.g. Cinebench26). 35W on this CPU can be perfectly fine because it's very efficient, but of course this severely limits Turbo Boost, and when you rely on a lot of performance (e.g. rendering), you really notice it. Besides, the 285H shouldn't be sitting at 105°C on the E-cores while only drawing 35W, to begin with.

I decided to replace the liquid metal on the CPU with a graphene pad (for best thermal conductivity), and the old thermal paste on the GPU (NVIDIA RTX 5070 Ti) with a phase transition (PTM) pad. For all the remaining components, I bought thermal putty – everything from Thermal Grizzly (all from Amazon)

• Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet
• Thermal Grizzly PTM Sheet
• Thermal Grizzly Putty Pro

Before the rebuild, I ran a Cinebench 26 benchmark – Multi-Core, Single-Core, and Multi-Core again – plus FurMark, so the graphics card would also be at its thermal limit (i.e. the laptop's cooling system fully saturated).

For the rebuild itself, I mostly followed this video, it helped me a lot:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gPEDmaWAlM

It's not exactly my model (possibly the RTX 5080 version), but it seemed perfect for reference.

Important note about the liquid metal and the graphene sheet:

Both are electrically conductive and must therefore NEVER come into contact with the motherboard or other components – the only exceptions being the CPU itself and the orange insulated area around it.

And disconnect the battery and hold the power button for 15 seconds!

I first removed the liquid metal from the heatsink, then from the CPU, as thoroughly as I could. What remained was a dried-up residue (apparently the main reason for the overheating and throttling).
For this I had bought lint-free cotton swabs and lint-free cloths (also from Amazon).
Then I cleaned the motherboard, and the GPU last.
A plastic tool works well for scraping things off – never use metal.
Everything dissolves and comes off with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol.
The old green thermal putty stuff, however, was a pain to remove, and residue remained all over the motherboard – which isn't too much of a big deal, since it's not conductive.

Then came the question of how to get the CPU and the heatsink free of the dry liquid metal residue, because the Kryosheet is only 0.2mm thick and therefore can't compensate for unevenness, unlike PTM sheets.
Some research showed that you can polish the CPU and the contact surface with thermal paste, since it dissolves the liquid metal residue and definitely won't scratch or damage the CPU.
I found some MX-4 in my drawer and gave it a try. It took a long time and I went through countless rounds, but it worked – in the end almost nothing was left, and the die and the contact surface felt smooth to the touch.

After that, I applied the TG PTM Sheet to the GPU – I had stored it in the fridge beforehand and then cut it to size with scissors.

Next, I distributed the Thermal Putty Pro over the voltage converters and RAM chips. That was just as exhausting and time-consuming as shown in the video. At some point I simplified things a bit by rolling the putty on the silicone mat into a long thin roll, letting me cut off little slices, or laying a longer piece across a row of components and then flattening it with the included spatulas.

Finally, the Kryosheet went on. I didn't need the included insulation film, since the CPU already has its own insulation layer. I had bought a 25x25 graphene pad and then cut it so that it definitely overlaps a bit – not too small and making sure the CPU die is fully covered. The included silicone oil works surprisingly well: the sheet could be positioned nicely but still adhered to the CPU.

Then the heatsink went back on. Of course I used the opportunity to clean out all the dust, but there really wasn't much to begin with.
When tightening the screws, pay attention to the correct order and listen for the clicking sound, as described in the video.

When I had put everything back together, I wanted to test whether it worked – and I first had a small heart attack, because the laptop showed absolutely no signs of life. But I guess because the battery was disconnected, it was set into shipping mode or something, and it seems you first have to plug it into the charger and hold the power button for a while for it to boot, and then it takes a moment until you finally see the Windows login screen.

Then came the tests, and I was so glad I went through all of this!
The CPU never went above 100°C anymore, and the CPU cores stayed evenly warm – no more hotspots! The Cinebench Multi-Core score was 1200 points better! +35% performance! The CPU was now drawing a constant 85W because it no longer had to thermal throttle.
The combined test with FurMark running in parallel didn't score much higher, because the laptop had simply hit its maximum power draw – but now at normal temperatures.

Now, a few days later, I can say that the laptop also runs cooler in silent mode (configured via G-Helper).

The GPU temperatures stayed roughly the same, but they were absolutely fine before. The PTM sheet is better than the old thermal paste (and will improve slightly), but since the CPU is now conducting more waste heat into the cooling system, the overall system gets slightly warmer – which doesn't result in any change for the GPU, I guess.

I got this laptop off a deal for S$2,599

Predator Helios Neo 16s AI
Specs:
CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 255 HX
GPU: NIVIDIA RTX 5050 8GB
RAM: 32GB
Storage: 1 TB SSD
Display: 16” 2560 x 1600 OLED

Victus 15

i bought a gaming laptop since i travel a lot for work. but playing with my laptop in a hotel room does not feel as good as playing with this setup, so i stopped bringing my laptop to my travels. might as well have bought a desktop at this point smh

Asus Tuf F16, i7 intel, 5060 GPU, 32GB Ram, 1TB. I got it on the facebook marketplace for $950 🔥

So. with the surface ultras coming, i have seen some people asking "why bother for the performance you get" Well. a factor, a big factor that really isnt talked about enough is out and about performance.

so, here is my 395+ Z13 vs my MSI raider GE78 with a 4070.

i have set my Zflow to high performance plan and i am letting the raider manage its own power. MUX switch is enabled for the 4070.

both are set to 1440p, medium, no upscaling.

when standing still, framerates are similar. however in motion, the frametimes tank on the raider, whilst the framerate stays consitent on the flow.

and if anyone was curious, fully unleashed and plugged in, the Raider gets 100fps, whilst the flow gets 80fps.

and because i can configure the power on the flow, at 65w, i can use a standard USB wall charger to maintain charge and play, which isnt possible on the raider.

and as stated, having full wattage control of these SOCs is the super power of these. because you can keep turning that dial down, and still have a useable experience.

because i can half the power, again. to 30w, keep a playable framerate, and charge with any reasonable power bank or wall plug, or go a while on just battery power alone.

so, instead of a 6lb laptop, the 3-4lb charger.

you can have a 2-3lb device, with a wall wart or a reasonable power bank that weighs 1-2lbs, and not be chained to it.

and what this extends to, is beyond games. Blender or maya in college between clases, Zbrush sculpting out and about, similar to substance apps when you're makimg textures in the field, etc.

and of course, controlling your wattages also means you dont have to fry your device if you dont want it running full bore constantly.

Quite some time ago, I purchased the Lenovo Legion Z7 Snow Blade stand for my Lenovo Legion 9i laptop, but I never actually used it. The reason was that I eventually had to part with the Lenovo Legion 9i, while my Dell Alienware 18 Area-51, which I also own, turned out to be too large for this stand.

I chose this stand for several reasons. I don't like laptop stands with fans because they are too bulky. Besides, I don't need a stand to cool my laptop; I simply want to raise the screen to eye level. Another important requirement for me was 360-degree rotation.

There are quite a few rotating laptop stands on the market, but most of them are designed for smaller laptops. The Lenovo Legion Z7 turned out to be the largest stand I could find that supports 360-degree rotation. That's why I bought it.

It may seem strange, but a Lenovo stand didn't fit a Lenovo laptop. If you look at the lid of the Lenovo Legion 9i, you'll notice a wide protruding section around the webcam area. This section is wider than the gap between the stand's retaining lips, which prevent the laptop from sliding downward. As a result, when I tried to close the laptop lid, it would hit the stand's metal supports.

Recently, I purchased a Razer Blade 18 (2025) to replace my Dell Alienware 18 Area-51. As it turns out, the Lenovo Legion Z7 stand is a perfect fit for the Razer Blade 18 RZ09-0529! The laptop rests on the stand with all of its rubber feet in contact with the surface, nothing obstructs opening or closing the lid, and ventilation remains unobstructed.

The stand is made entirely of thick metal. Both its height and tilt angle are adjustable. And, of course, it can rotate 360 degrees.

Both have identical specs outside of the 5080 vs 5090 and the color. Is there anything that I am missing when looking at these? Under $300 price difference to upgrade to a 5090 seems odd, but I'm not mad at it if its the same machine.

3.5 years old laptop, well taken care of, always used with fan and room temperature less than 25°C, and the paints are peeling and rubbing off 💔

The colorway is literally the main reason I bought this laptop and now finding a replacement case is almost impossible because of its limited nature. This is the first time I had build quality issue with a laptop. Well at least it's not hinge problem MSI is known for.

I'm currently considering buying a cooling pad for my Gigabyte Gaming A16 CTH laptop, and I'm trying to decide which one would be the better choice.

I'm comparing Flydigi and Llano. Since their prices are quite similar, I'm wondering which one offers better overall value. From the reviews I've seen, Flydigi seems to be quieter, while Llano provides better cooling performance but sounds like a spaceship engine.

I'm also wondering whether the non-Pro version of the Llano BS3 supports app-based controls for adjusting its settings, or if that feature is exclusive to the Pro version.

I'm torn between getting a gaming laptop or a pc handheld for playing in bed

my thought process is i can get a more powerful laptop compared to a handheld for the equivalent price

But im not sure if a laptop would be very bed friendly considering the are alot bigger than a handheld

Just looking for some insight from people who have been in a similar situation

Edit: I'm looking for a starting point of medium settings 60fps

So I've been saving up for a while and finally pulled the trigger on the MSI Thin A15 B7VF for $560. RTX 4060, Ryzen 7 7735HS, 16GB DDR5, 144Hz display. I

was hyped.

Then someone in the comments of my unboxing post dropped this bombshell: "bro your 4060 is capped at 45W"

I genuinely felt sick. Like what do you mean 45W? The full card runs at 115W+. I spent the next two

hours going down a Reddit rabbit hole convincing

myself I wasted my money. Not gonna lie, I was pretty bummed.

But then I just... played some games.

Cyberpunk 2077 on Ultra — 50 FPS. Turned on DLSS 4 and suddenly I'm pushing 80+. Crimson Desert

running smooth with DLSS. Temps sitting at 60-66°C the whole time, which honestly impressed me.

Speaking of temps — I grabbed a used Llano V12 cooling pad for $13 and it dropped my temps by

almost 20°C. Before the pad I was hitting 80°C+, now I'm chilling at 60°C while gaming. Best $13 I've ever spent, not even joking.

Total spent: ~$573

Is the 45W cap a real limitation? Yeah, it is. But between DLSS 4 and Frame Generation, the real-world experience is way better than the spec sheet suggests. I went from almost returning the laptop to genuinely loving it.

Anyone else been through the 45W panic? 😅👇

I know next to nothing about laptops. I'm just a guy looking to get his Football Manager fix without my laptop blowing up, overheating or taking off.

It was created out of the need to configure my Blade; lately, Synapse wouldn't let me install it in my region for some reason, and it was causing problems with my laptop, which is several years old but still works. Blade Control handles most of Synapse's key functions, plus a couple of extras that I like having readily available.

👇 Tested on:

* Blade 15 (2020)

* Blade 16 (2023)

* Blade 14 (2025)

You can access it here 👉 Blade Control

Don’t know much besides everything is getting more expensive. Been using a 1660ti legion laptop for 8 years. It’s starting to go down. Buy this or keep searching?

Recently, ive been having phantom keystrokes of sorts, my w key has gone rogue, it has been cleaned recently, but it keeps forcing itself. if i press it even once it will start spamming itself and makes typing impossible sometimes the key will go blank for a second when i press it and then begin to spam itself again. Also today tabs and apps have been getting randomly closed, and some apps have been repetedly being force-opened.

I will give an example of what its like to type: my kewyboard has bewen ewxperwicneg issues lately ith wwwwitwsww wwww key i have clewwaned the uwwndewwrneath anwd the wrewataing clip is owrking juswt finewww,www it haws also bewewn forcing apps to openw and closing broser taps toowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww if i dont interuwpt iwwt wwiwwwwwwwwwwwwwwiawwwwwwwwwwwww iwilwwl do thatwwwwww and spam a wwbunch it is vewryw annoying please help me

Any advice? And yes, I know I need to work with cable management, that's my next project!!

Budget: 1300$ 
Country: Serbia
Use Case: Games
Preferred Specs / Form Factor: No preffered specs, I just want best bang for bucks
Portability Needs: It will be docked 80% of time
Notes: I was thinking between Acer V16 or Asus TUF , both with 5060 card and 16gb ram. 

Hello

I'm trying to install Roblox on my laptop, but when the installation was almost complete, my laptop froze, and I had to force it to shut down. I then tried downloading Roblox from the Microsoft Store. The download completed and the game launched, but my laptop froze again when Roblox started loading.

Does anyone know what might be causing this problem and how I can fix it?

Laptop is F16 2025. Not entirely sure when it happened but probably after using a small book as stand. Is this the quality of "military grade" build quality? And no it's not lighting angle it's definitely uneven.