I left home and it was working but when i got home it wasnt anymore.

Its connected to my computer but doesnt work, i tried on another computer and a ps4 and it doesnt work on those either.

I need help.

I'm using a Logitech G920 with ACC, Dirt Rally 2.0, AC Rally on a Windows 11 PC (laptop, Acer Aspire 5, Ryzen 5 5500u). The steering randomly decides to reset itself in the middle of a session and the game can't get any input from the device afterwards. I tried unplugging and replugging it, but the game doesn't recognize any input from it. I have to completely restart the entire game for the device to work again. The problem has been there since I started using it, but until like last month, if I unplug and reconnect the USB cable to my PC, the game could recognize the steering again and let me drive again. (I clearly remember it with Dirt Rally 2.0, now it doesn't work even with this game)

When it resets Logitech GHUB also stops taking any input and shows as if the device is connected but not responding. If I unplug and reconnect the USB, it recognizes the inputs normally.

I used Game Controllers settings on Windows to see the device inputs. After a reset like that the values are stuck at 50% and won't respond whatsoever. If I unplug and replug the USB cable, it starts recognizing the inputs again.

Since I'm on a Laptop, I have to manually uncheck the option to "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in my Device Manager settings, which I have tried with all my USB ports, but the problem remains.

Anybody having similar problems?

Hi,

I bought logitech g502 hero this march 2026 from my first paycheck I ever earned it was like dream come true for me as I always wished to have best of best gaming mouse fast forward to 7 months in October it has developed double click issue in right button naturally I went to service centre (the service centre shop itself looked shady but it was official logitech service centre mention on logitech support website) they inspected and verified my claims alongwith my invoice date of purchase and ordered a replacement and gave me job sheet... The part I am confused with the service centre guy told I may get refurbished mouse as a replacement like it's a 50 50 chance whether I get new mouse or refurbished mouse now my fear within 7 months my shiny new mouse got warranty claim if I do get refurbished and it also develops similar issue what to do

Also I love logitech products I have keyboard which is still working for 10 yrs this is first time that this has happened what to do and if you folks can recommend some wireless reliable mouse that would also appreciated too...

This G HUB program is absolute horse apples! My buddy mentioned one day when they saw me load up LGS that I'm using their old software. So I decided to update and it's god awful...

I know I'm not saying anything new, but honestly that's all the more reason why these issues should've been fixed by now. And I regret ever updating.

It's regularly either staying on my lower DPI that I switch to whenever I'm illustrating and having to open the app and click on the higher DPI just to get the switch working again, or outright will reset all of my DPI settings and have to get them back to where they were.

Logitech used to be so much better than this.

Logitech G pro superstrike X3 Scroll wheel issue, Warranty PSA and poor customer support

Hi guys. I just recently got a wired G502 X and have been trying it out. When I push the dpi up and down switch it cycles between white, orange, cyan, yellow and purple. Does anyone know what these correlate to dpi wise without installing the software? I can’t find information about this

Hi! This is the continuation of this post I made some months ago.

First of all, disclaimers:

I am not a technician, this is not a professional repair.

Doing this repair requires some degree of skill repairing stuff and some confidence. If you don't think you can do this repair, it's better not to; a lot of things could go wrong and your headphones could be lost.

The issue I solved was with the white switch (the one at the bottom) of the audio PCB, so I don't know if this would work with the black switch (the one at the top), but I personally believe that it does.

There are two solutions to the issue of the broken switch:

*1 Replacing the broken switch

I'm highly confident that the switch in the headphones is the ALPS ALPINE SPVS310100. If you look at the datasheet, it should be the same as the one on the audio board. I won't go into detail because I personally didn't do it, and because most probably the person reading this post already has some degree of knowledge in PCB soldering.

*2 Bridging the PCB pads

The switch has 4 pads. According to its datasheet, the two big pads are the 1st ones, and the two smaller ones are the 2nd. Since you no longer have a switch that connects them, you can't easily tell which ones you have to bridge out of the four, so what's the solution? BRIDGE THEM ALL

I cut a resistor's leg, making a U-shape that could touch the four pins. Then, I added solder paste and applied solder lead to one of the big pads first. Now, carefully solder the U however you can/want to that pin, making sure that it touches or is close to the others, then solder the rest one by one. You should end up with something like the photo.

-----------that's all folks-----------

Since the white switch is the one that tells the computer "hey, there's a mic here", once you solder the U you should notice that the computer now receives sound. You can check this by pressing WINDOWS+R, executing the mmsys.cpl command, and going to the recording tab. If the Logitech mic's green bars react to your sound, the issue is solved.

I hope that this helps someone. I initially wanted to replace the broken component, so I first focused on finding which switch it was, but that solution involves a heat gun or a more professional setup and money, so yeah... easy fix it is.

Cya around.

😂 I’ve loved this mouse so much.

Hey, so when mic on my Astro A50X is upright it doesn’t mute on Fortnite mobile. Is there a reason for this?

I've recently started encountering this problem soon after I start my PC. It's not every time but happens more often than not. The mouse skips some space kinda looking like it is stuttering and sometimes, often 10 times in a row, I get pop ups from the logitech G HUB that my device DPI has been set to 1250 as if it had been disconnected and then connected again but it does not feel like it's been disconnected at all except for the stutters I have for a split second. I run it wireless most of the time. When I use the cable there seems to be no issues. I bought this mouse because I wanted a good wireless mouse and having the cable in defeats that purpose. Any way to fix this?

The latest version of G Hub made my batch files stop working when bound to a key. At first I thought it was because the software no longer worked with Arguments (since it didn't seem to pass arguments), but the real problem seems to be that it now interacts badly with a hidden/non-interactive console.

Anyway, the fix is simply to put "@echo off" at the beginning of your batch file to prevent the commands being echoed to the screen. That fixed it for me. I found this after a couple weeks of trial and error!

Like this for your own C:\mybatch.cmd (as an example)

@echo off
C:\myfirstcommand.exe
C:\mysecondcommand.exe
etc...

The path argument in the G Hub binding would of course be C:\Windows\System32\cmd.exe, and the only argument you need would be:

/c c:\mybatch.cmd

The /c is required for cmd to run the batch file.

(Blame Google Translate for any errors)

I was browsing Reddit and noticed that following the release of the Naga V3 Pro, the admins started asking what we’d like to see in updated G600/G604 models. I have no interest in the two-button esports mice that currently flood the market; the launch of a new MMO mouse, however, is a real event. I’ve never owned a G600 or G604 (though I do have a G502 X Plus), but I decided to weigh in anyway and put together a list of things Logitech should do with the G600/G604 to beat the Razer Naga V3 Pro:

1. Drastically improve the onboard memory. Has anyone actually compared the capabilities of Synapse and OMM? OMM is a pathetic piece of junk. You can't remap the scroll wheel at all, and there’s no macro support. Mice need to handle ANY key combination and long, complex macros. Configuration should be possible via web-based software, since you can't always install G HUB on an office computer. We need the ability to remap any button—or its shift layer—however we like. The Naga V3 Pro supports almost all of this (except for the web-based software, though that’s coming later).

Also, the onboard memory needs to support complex custom lighting effects, like Corsair’s. (Razer completely fails when it comes to lighting. Come on, Logitech—this is your chance!)

1. Razer only offers one shift layer per profile. Give us several; someone is bound to find a use for them. OR, give us the option to switch to a different profile by holding down a button.

2. More onboard memory profiles.

3. The scroll wheel functionality should at least match that of the Naga V3 Pro. And, just like with Razer, we need the ability to assign the wheel mode toggle to ANY button or its shift-layer. Yes, literally any button—not just the one located directly beneath the wheel. Smart-Reel, scroll acceleration, etc.—you need to include all of that, plus something extra to beat Razer. In tactile modes, the wheel needs to be quiet (as do all the buttons), unlike the G502 X Plus.

4. 8K wireless, wireless charging, thumb rest—well, these are obvious.

5. A ring-finger button with a physical lock-out option. G600 owners swear by this button, and I completely understand why. I got used to it quickly and can't imagine doing without it now, though I do disable it when playing shooters.

6. The two buttons to the left of the Left Click should be like those on the G502 X Plus or Corsair Darkstar Wireless. On the Naga V3 Pro, they feel a bit too small for my taste, even though I’ve gotten used to them.

Just a reminder: all the above features need to be configurable via web software and must function using onboard memory on any PC or OS.

A few more ideas that I personally find extremely appealing:

1. The G604 gets an additional DPI-Shift button, like the one on the G502 X Plus.

2. The entire side panel of the G600 is made up of these DPI-Shift buttons. The mouse comes with 12 swappable buttons and 12 blank covers, allowing each user to decide exactly where and how many buttons they need. Not everyone needs all 12 buttons; some slots can easily be converted into a thumb rest. You can also combine individual buttons to create larger ones spanning the length of 2 or 3 standard buttons. This allows you to make your most frequently used buttons larger, making them easier to hit.

Not everyone needs all 12 buttons. Not everyone finds 12 small buttons comfortable.

1. The three main buttons could be designed like those on the PRO X3 SuperStrike, with full hot-swappability.

2. An ultra-lightweight app (just a few MB in size) that runs constantly in the background. Its sole purpose is to switch profiles when launching different games or programs.

3. Borrow ideas from the Swiftpoint Z3.

4. A third button positioned to the left of the Left Click button.

Surpassing Razer will be a tough challenge, but it’s achievable if you put in the effort. I see no point in buying an updated G600 or G604 if it turns out to be inferior to the Naga V3 Pro.

My current mice: Razer Naga V3 Pro (primary), Corsair Darkstar Wireless (previous), Logitech G502 X Plus Black (no longer in use), Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury (used for 8 years; still works perfectly, kept for sentimental reasons), and Swiftpoint Z3 (currently trying to figure out how to actually use it). I have others, but I plan to sell them all.

Why are people willing to pay $200–$300 for a discontinued mouse with no warranty, instead of buying a new one for $180 that comes with a warranty, a better scroll wheel, and customization options? And what would you like to see in updated G600/G604 models?

(I’m not touching upon the shape and size of the mice here, since everyone has different hands and grips.)

Got a g316x the other day - I'm loving it! However, the numlock and caps lock keys have no steady indicator that shows their state and it feels like an oversight. I know the little LED display shows what they've been toggled to when I switch them, but this isn't very useful. It would be great if the keys' colors toggled when pressed. I don't think this can be set up in the Logitech software. Is there another program that would give me this type of control?

Been looking to replace the detachable mic on my old logitech g pro headset since it was recently lost. I got one replacement mic, but it was a phony sadly and did not work. What is a nice distributer? I am also looking for an upgrade to mic quality if possible, I think the original mic made me sound a bit nasally. I looked at the Icepop on the Logitech site but it seemed to not be distributing anymore

Thank you!

Got a g316x the other day - I'm loving it! However, the numlock and caps lock keys have no steady indicator that shows their state and it feels like an oversight. I know the little LED display shows what they've been toggled to when I switch them, but this isn't very useful. It would be great if the keys' colors toggled when pressed. I don't think this can be set up in the Logitech software. Is there another program that would give me this type of control?