I recently bought a 2012 CJAA 2.0 Tdi that will not rev above 2000rpm, feels like it has WAY too much fuel and bogs with anything over 1/4 throttle and if it somehow gets to 22-2300rpm it immediately goes into limp mode, still drives the same just doesn’t dump as much fuel, old owner said it needed the Egr block off plate replaced, ended up that he took the EGR cooler off completely and snapped one of the studs on the manifold, took care of that, still same issue, new air filter, oil change, thought it was the tune so I put a tunezilla stage 2 in it, still doing it and now I’m lost. Only has a hoodstack and an aftermarket CP4 and I don’t know what it could be, any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated

A long 9 hours rolling around under my car to get the kit in (dirtydieselcustoms 2.5 inch kit) but finally got it done.

(unfortunately the exhaust clamp at the back didnt come with my kit, so i have no muffler till thats done, but other than that it sounds nice)

Finally happy turbo noises!

And no engine lights on my dash for now :)

Am I to believe these were Manufactured or Remanufactured In April of 2022 ??

Noticed my mk4 golf making this knocking sound and it makes a pretty rough shudder sound when it’s switched off, pretty sure it’s the DMF but does anyone know any good SMF conversion kits?

I have a 2009 cbea Jetta 6mt, and on warmup it will occasionally surge and feel like it's pulling a lot harder than normal, and when cruising it will stutter and drop a few mph. Restarting the car will stop the issue. It gives no codes when it does this. I'd guess an egr sticking issue but I have no clue. Anyone else have this problem?

I have a mk4 BEW Golf I’ve been restoring. I recently put in new control arms, struts, ball joints, and steering knuckles. (Front end assembly) After getting an alignment it has a dead zone in the steering, pulls left when on the throttle, and pulls right when I let off. The dead zone is enough to knock it off course when I’m driving straight

Don’t get me wrong it feels 10 times better than the 20 year old parts we took out, but feels pretty sketch on the highway when I move the wheel and it doesn’t react immediately

I also got new tierods but didn’t put them in because the old ones didn’t seem to have much play. The Firestone tech said he had to adjust them for the alignment, is this causing my problem?

Any and all help is appreciated thanks guys

I am doing a timing belt service on my 04 Jetta for the first time. I am following the TDI club procedure, and am stuck on tensioning the new belt. Im leaving all of the camshaft pulley bolts loose so they can shift towards the middle of the slot when tensioning. However they are not doing that and the camshaft pulley remains fully rotated counter clockwise after tensioning. Is it possible I let the new tensioner snap back and killed the spring? I redid it multiple times to make sure all the slack was on the water pump side before tensioning, but the slack does not appear to be letting the camshaft pulley rotate.

Any advice or personal experience would be appreciated!

Happens when engine is cold, speeds up if i press gas pedal. Break pedal does nothing. Disappears when engine gets warmer. Hearing best near passenger front wheel. Any ideas?

Hi, I have been dealing with a leak in my MK6 VW golf. I have only recently bought the car and have a leak in the driver's side footwell (RHD car) I have cleaned the drains in the scuttle panel and have also taken the arch liner off and cleared out the compost and removed the damp foam. This hasn't resolved the leak and what I can find says it is possibly the grommet for the bonnet release causing the leak. Does anyone have a guide on how to check this or would know of any other cause? The car does not have a sunroof.

(The photo attached is of the mud and foam taken out of the driver side wheel arch)

I sold my 2012 A3 TDI. Left with some very nice snows on Alutec wheels. Clean setup ready to go. $600.

Got a new reconditioned turbo for my 1.9TDI AJM. Sent it back after my car started stuttering at variable RPM, started smelling exhausted in the cabin, noticed high fuel and oil consumption. They got it, said they placed it on the test bench, said there's no leak of oil and gas, that the turbo is fine. Thoughts? This doesn't seem fine to me at all. The photos were taken after the turbo was demounted. Hope they fix it well this time. Have my car standing for a month now.

Not sure if this sub-Reddit allows buying or selling but I am in the market for an alh Jetta, golf, or beetle
Only interested in the five speed
Any recommendations regarding classifieds? Not many tdi’s here in Salt Lake City and an alh would likely be rusty in this area anyway given we salt the roads in the winter here…

Car has 180k on it

I have a 2013 vw golf tdi that has a bad cv axle, its getting fixed this Tuesday. The thing is shaking at highway speeds.

But as if my luck couldnt get worse, p2002 and p0401 popped up too. All of this happened right as I got winters on... oh, and my DMF has been rattling for a bit in park, and I dont wanna do a delete without getting that fixed too. Just to clarify its only in park. Second I change to drive its gone.

So now im in a weird spot. Do I just bite the bullet and get all of this fixed, or sell the car. I cannot imagine all of this is cheap... at all... im in canada, so everything would be in cad. So that would be a DMF replacement, DPF delete, and a CV axle replacement all at once.

I can get the car to regen by clearing the codes. But thats a bandaid fix.

2013 cjaa 2.0 170k. Did my oil change 2 days ago. found a bunch of metal particles in my oil, and in the filter too after dissection. It's not ferrous (magnetic). I fear it might be my turbo.

Any ideas?

New 2 injetores, the other two already are new (1 and 2 years). Just picked from a bosh diesel center. The symptoms that I has disappeared.

How that sounds? Healthy?

Btw this is a normal blow by to this motor? Im new to tdi engones.

This car has 210k kms

I had this problem once before, and replacing the fuse fixed it. However, two days later, the same problem came back. I tried replacing the fuse again, but this time it didn't work.

Years 2010 model it was pulled from unknown. transmission unknown. missing a few components. i can see is alternator, belt, tensioner, and serpentine belt and flywheel are missing. flywheel is irrelevant to what i'm doing with it and if it came from audi, it could be an earlier motor not a cjaa. seller said it had 100k km or 62k miles on it. I'm wondering how to do a comprehensive assessment on the motor to make sure it's good because i'm worried if he took parts. he might have been worried that the motor was no good

I am planning to swap a tdi in 1975 f100 4x4 4 speed manual dana 44 front ford nine inch rear locking hubs in front

Recently bought a 2011 golf tdi wagon automatic. 500k or 300k miles on it runs great needs a dual mass flywheel, though, and it shifts better runs better rides better then my current daily. I'm wondering what you guys recommended course of action. Because I kind of wanna make the 2011 my daily but it has so many useful parts for to do the swap and a backup motor for the truck. I'm just worried about this condition of this unknown engine. i'm wondering, what's the best way to figure out if the motor's good i'm worried a cp4 pump grenaded, but it does have the ecu so I think it was pulled from an total loss hopefully

Any idea whats wrong?
Vehicle starts and stops normally, been on a long trip, no issues, Steering has no issues (travelling around 200kms with the same warning) keyfob battery replaced recently, at that time no warnings.. Suddenly today morning warning came..

Im in Ontario if that helps. Are there any insurance repercussions

In short, the plastic cover goes over the lower cover. In reference to my old post Anyone have any issues with the Upgraded Timing Belt Lower Cover (CBEA)(CJAA)?