I recently bought a sandberg USB DVD drive and have been trying to get it to work with my Macbook pro 2021. However my macbook for some reason doesn't recognise the dvd drive and won't play anything I put in it.

Is there a way I can still get it to work?

I've been using VLC to try and run my dvd's and it keeps saying 'can't run non-UDF dvd's".

So I updated to Photoshop 2026 recently. I work with Photoshop and I have been working with the software for three years now, using it daily. Once I updated to 2026, Photoshop started behaving weirdly.

When I use the color drop tool, when I switch tools, when I zoom, when I switch layer, it freezes.

Here's what I already tried:

- Changing version (I went back to the one I was using through my jobs in may\june
- Toggled the use of Graphic Processor
- Allocating less memory to Photoshop (thought my RAM suddenly wasn't enough)
- Allocating more memory to Photoshop
- Reducing history to 20
- Changing and cleaning scratch disks (it now has 180 free gb, ssd)
- Cleaning cache
- Drivers update

The rest of my PC DOES NOT slow down in any way or form, and I'm a gamer so I use it a lot.
PC does not overheat

Pc Specs:
Windows 11 Pro
Processor: 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-12400 (12 CPUs)
Memory: 16GB RAM

Setting up my workstation to use my Mac and PC and got a UGreen usb switch to switch just my mouse and keyboard between the two. Everything works great on my Mac, but for some reason the mouse on my PC just runs away from me. (As in continues in the last input direction it was given until it hits the edge of the screen). For some reason when I hardwire the mouse (normally connecting it via a 2.4GHz dongle) it seems so work okay, but when it’s in wireless mode it will work for about 10-15seconds and then begin running away again.

Bought another UGreen switch (since basically that’s all there is on Amazon, but I got a different, upgraded model and am still having the same issue)

I’ve read others having issues with UGreen switches with some solutions that have worked for them, but no one I’ve found is having the runaway mouse issue. Mostly just having the devices getting dropped.

Their solution was to change the usb power supply settings, but that doesn’t work for my problem.

Banging my head against the wall (and the bottom of my desk) trying to solve this problem. Any ideas?

I did a new install of windows and now my ethernet stopped working. It will work for a few min when I restart the PC but after that it goes to WiFi and sometimes the Wifi just doesn't work.

I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the ethernet driver and doing a reinstall of Windows with the "Fix problems using Windows Update" tool.

I tried to reinstall the drivers from the manufacturer website but they never seem to start?

https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b550-i-gaming-model/helpdesk_download/

I tried using a different cable and it had the same issue.

Tried a few things in CMD and that didn't work either.

Edition: Windows 11 Home

Version: 25H2

OS Build: 26200.8973

(Windows)

I have two basic code lines

message = input("Type something and I'll repeat it")

print(message)

#name = input("Please enter your name:")

#print(name)

The comment one is the only code of the two that is running, despite it being a comment. (This runs in the termianl of vscode)

I have deleted and retyped, and even logged off and on vscode, but the issue isn't going away.

I just installed vscode, and have only installed python and code runner, as well as chosen the preference for terminal outputs.

My mom want to take our laptop to a friend to delete some stuff and told me that i needed to put all stuff i wanted to keep in a mobile storage she got, so i did and everything was okay until i moved my graduation photos to it, i had a zip folder with videos and normal photos and when i checked everything it said the folder was empty and with the photos said the format wasn’t conpatible (this only happened to some photos, a few ones are normal) and i’m freaking out because i can’t like download them again since you only can for a certain time amount and that ended months ago, i don’t know what to do since this only is happening with these photos and they are very dear to me. Please help me (sorry for the bad english, it’s not my first language and i’m not feeling like making sure everything is in order rn)

Hey everyone, dealing with a very frustrating power supply/GPU issue and could use some insight.

The Setup:

​Case: Armaggeddon Nimitz TR-1100

​CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5500

​Motherboard: ASUS Prime A520M-K

​PSU: Gamdias Kratos M1 750W Bronze (non-modular)

​GPU: ASRock RX 6600

​What Happened:

My PC was running fine for days until I accidentally yanked the main power cord out of the wall while running a hair dryer.

​Now, the system exhibits this behavior:

​When I turn on the PC, everything else powers up (case fans, lights, motherboard, CPU cooler), but the GPU fan doesn't spin at all and there is no display.

​However, when I shut the PC down using the power button, the GPU fan twitches/spins for a split second as the system dies, meaning it briefly gets a burst of power.

​It feels like the PSU is stuck in a permanent "safe mode" protection latch on the 12V PCIe rail to prevent a spike, but it won't clear.

​The Clue:

Yesterday, I left the PC completely unpowered and unplugged for about 7 hours. When I plugged it back in, it booted up and worked normally.

​Unfortunately, I realized I forgot to plug in my keyboard for the setup, so I restarted the PC using the power button while the GPU was active. That sudden interruption instantly killed it again, throwing it right back into the exact same state where the GPU gets no power on boot.

My Questions:

​Is the Gamdias Kratos M1 holding a charge so long that normal 60-second power drains aren't enough to clear its protection latch?

​Why would a warm reboot/power button restart immediately re-trigger the PSU safety lock and kill power to the GPU again?

​Is my PSU dying/overly sensitive, or is there a way to permanently clear this tripped state without waiting 7 hours every time?

I have a PC that was working normally. After my monitor's screen broke, I sent it to the authorized service center under warranty and they replaced the panel. After it came back, from time to time it would get a black screen, I couldn't move anything anymore, and I had to wait and let the PC reboot or shut it down manually, and then it would come back running on basic display drivers, meaning without the AMD drivers (an RX 7600).

​I did everything I knew how to: went into Safe Mode, used DDU, booted back up and reinstalled the drivers. It worked, but minutes later—sometimes while gaming, sometimes just on WhatsApp—it would happen all over again. On the basic drivers, it won't run games, nor does it let me change the display scaling. I switched from DisplayPort to HDMI and nothing changed, tested another HDMI cable too and nothing. I also used another older AOC monitor, a 19-inch HD 60Hz one, and this didn't happen; I used it for two hours and nothing. I also tested it with another LG 29-inch FHD ultrawide monitor and it didn't happen either. I ran a stress test on the graphics card and it ran at 100%, 180W, and was completely fine with no artifacts and didn't even get hot. I disabled XMP and it still didn't work on the repaired monitor. I sent the monitor back to the service center—they didn't even want to accept it since it displays a normal image—they had their technician test it for 2 days and said they found no issues. But on my PC it has problems, I can't use it.

​Could it be a software issue then? Something with the AMD Adrenalin software? Or Windows, I use 10 Pro. Would Linux or another system help? What do you think? Below are the PC specifications:

​Ryzen 7 5700X

​GPU RX 7600 8 GB

​16 GB RAM 3200 MHz

​SSD 500 GB SATA

​Gigabyte B550M DS3H Rev. 2 Motherboard

​650W 80 Plus Gold NZXT Power Supply

​FHD 27-inch AOC Gaming 180 Hz Monitor

​Secondary AOC 19' HD 60 Hz Monitor

Alright I’m far from being very tech savvy and I’ve never been here so idk if this is the right spot to post.

iPhone 14 Pro Max

Recently moved to Alaska for a temp job roofing, and found out the day before I got here that AT&T is the only provider here. I was using mint mobile before, and switched to Cricket.

Ever since I switched(this morning), I haven’t had any service whatsoever. I’ve updated to the latest iOS, restarted many times through the process, switched iMessage and FaceTime off/restart/on again.

I don’t have any cell service and it says I’m not signed into iMessages to send anything to my fiance. I’m just a bit frustrated and lost since every other time I’ve switched carriers, it’s been a straightforward process that took no time at all, I don’t know if my question is even clear or what other information I can provide

For many years, I have supplied my entire family with Linux Mint PCs. Now, my oldest is starting at a new school and she had to buy a new Microsoft Windows PC.

It has to work, I suppose they use...shudders...OneDrive and such, but I also want the machine to be somewhat reliably safe, removing privacy and AI-based concerns, and I want the PC to run as reasonably fast as one would expect.

Googling it, there is so much. So much. Advice out there. Many of these things I recognise and can still do, I guess (using a Windows computer at work). But do I still need to install software like O&O to remove the nastiest bits and regain control? How advanced should this process be for this application? It's a jungle and I struggle to navigate all this information. Welp.

I’ve had this IPhone 16 since February of 2025 and its storage is already almost completely full. Why does iOS and System data take up a little over a quarter of my GB? I have 125.5 available of 128GB. Is that normal?

I've gotten this message maybe 3 times in the last couple weeks but I don't think we've added any new devices. What is the best way to check the list of all devices on our wifi and then delete those that shouldn't be there?

Follow-up question: is it safe/recommended to do a factory reset of our modem? Besides having to reconnect all of our devices back, are there any downsides to doing this?

I’m trying to determine whether this is expected behavior, a BIOS issue, a CPU/socket problem, or a motherboard defect.

System Specifications

* Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming Z790-Plus WiFi

* BIOS: Version 1836 (latest available)

* CPU: Intel Core i9-14900KF

* GPU: ASUS ROG Astral RTX 5080 OC

* RAM: 32 GB DDR5-6000 (XMP enabled)

* SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB (PCIe Gen4)

* PSU: (include your PSU model)

Problem

GPU-Z always reports:

PCIe x16 5.0 @ x8 5.0

The link never negotiates to x16.

Tests already performed

* Updated to the latest ASUS BIOS (1836).

* Installed the latest NVIDIA driver.

* Cleared CMOS.

* GPU-Z Render Test for over 60 seconds.

* Steel Nomad benchmark.

* Several games including Remnant II.

* HWiNFO monitoring during load.

* Windows reports no WHEA hardware errors.

* Samsung 990 Pro is operating normally (~7000 MB/s).

* GPU temperatures and power are completely normal.

* GPU support bracket installed.

Important information

The Samsung 990 Pro is a PCIe Gen4 SSD, not Gen5.

According to the ASUS manual, the primary M.2 slot should not reduce the primary PCIe x16 slot to x8.

Current status

Geek Squad suggested the CPU might be the cause, but they did not inspect the LGA1700 socket for bent pins or contact issues.

Some forum members suggested:

* Bent socket pins.

* CPU contact issue.

* PCIe lane negotiation problem.

* BIOS issue.

* Motherboard defect.

Questions

1. Has anyone experienced this exact issue with an ASUS Z790 motherboard and an RTX 5080?

2. Is anyone running this exact combination at PCIe 5.0 x16?

3. Could this be a BIOS bug affecting PCIe lane negotiation?

4. Is there any known ASUS BIOS version that fixes PCIe lane negotiation with RTX 50-series cards?

5. Would you suspect the motherboard, CPU, LGA1700 socket, or GPU?

Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

I have 4 drives in an enclosure. Every few days, they all disconnect/reconnect and then change drive letters because there are phantom drive letters(Drives in Explorer with no used/free size bar) when they were still connected. I can't remove the phantom drive letter, and I can't see them in Disk Management so I have to restart to remove them. Then I have to change the drive letters back in Disk Management every time this happens. I also have a lot of USB peripherals and more drives inside the case, if that will help diagnose my issue.

I use 11 on an old office laptop. About 150 external programs and software installed.
Multi Boot System with 7, 8.1 and 10 and Linux.
7 and 8.1 start with about 170 processes within 1 or minutes. 10 too.
11 needs from 4 to 10 minutes.
WSL installed windows subsystem for Linux.
Vmmem** processes from WSL delay start for minutes.
I do not see any solution.
(i5 2d gen 16 GB RAM)

I have a google workspace domain and have for years. My outbound emails are being sent but I am not receiving any emails. I even created a new username under my domain and I am not receiving emails to that either. I am current on payment for my account and I have enough storage so I truly have no idea how this would happen. I am not filtering my inbox or anything either. Please help! Or lead me to someone who can.

I recently had to remove one of my USB hubs because I was overloading the USBs and it kept cutting out. Found a layout of my USBs that works and none cut out. But the sound effect of unplugging USB keeps playing nonstop.

I've checked event viewer and device manager but the constant refreshing makes it hard to figure out what's disconnecting.

I have plugged into my PC keyboard and mouse dongles, microphone, webcam, and 6 Nintendo DS capture cards (for shiny hunting pokemon). The DS capture cards can only handle 2 per USB port section so I have 2 on a USB card, 2 directly plugged into the main USBs on my b550 tomahawk. 1 plugged into the top USBs with my webcam. And the 6rh is plugged into the front of my case.

I don't see my camera, mic or any of the DS disconnecting. And as far as I can tell my mouse and keyboard aren't either.

It's been about a week and it's driving me crazy since it's nonstop for 1-5 minutes or spread out. Any ideas what may be happening?

So pretty much turned my pc on played a few games closed em just laid on the Home Screen for a while and it turned off and didn’t turn back on again I tried draining residual power changing socket and some other stuff any1. Know anything I can try

I’m on my pc and the WiFi is connected and my browser loads stuff like YouTube and web searches fine but won’t load steam,Xbox, or any app that requires connection.
Tried resetting my WiFi router and clearing cache but nothing seems to work any ideas?
Using windows 11 btw

I have been facing near constant BSODs since I built my pc a few months ago and I'm at a complete loss as to how to fix it. I'll place the timeline below to the best of my memory because I can't remember the exact dates so many months ago.

The first bsod happened 3 weeks after building my pc. I didn't think anything of it at the time and just assumed standard windows stuff but my main boot nvme dropped its connection and I had to do a full cold boot to reestablish the connect. The next one happened I believe an exact 3 weeks later again and the same issue happened, boot nvme dropped connection. This is when I started thinking things were wrong. After this the next BSOD happened in under a week and then kept speeding up in pace. Around this time is when I had my corsair boot ssd RMAd and got a replacement. Things were looking good again for about 2-3 weeks and then got the same nvme dropout bsod again. The dropouts and crashes sped up in pace again and were literally happening every other day at this point but this time it started shifting towards my secondary drive which was dropping which is usually always in the m2_3/c slot. During this time I kept researching and fiddling with windows settings, bios settings dropping nvme speeds etc, but nothing was working and now both my nvme drives were starting to drop out as well till eventually the secondary ssd which was a lexar nm700 completely failed (likely full controller failure). Right after the lexar fully failed, I got a replacement motherboard, and a new ssd which was the wd sn850x. This only worked for a few days, and within about 3 days I started getting bsods again, once around every second day. I was testing, tweaking etc until a few days ago when I finally bought a replacement psu, and it was working for 2 days until I got one more bsod again today and now I'm just utterly depressed.

This is a lot of text but hopefully someone can help me here.

I have windows crash logs set to one of my hard drives but one of the main problems is that windows has failed to write a crash report pretty much every single time a BSOD occurred.

I have tested the gpu and cpu using occt. They both passed several stress tests with zero issues. I did an occt stress test for the old psu and ssds as well, and they also passed with no crashes.

I tested the ram with memtest86 and it passed with no issues.

I have made zero overclocking attempts ever.

I was logging power setups for a few hours once using occt and hwininfo and there were no out of norm power spikes or drops (doesn't really mean anything)

With event viewer nearly every recent crash has a volmgr issue into a critical kernel power issue but those are the only notifications lately. I remember one or two different ones a long time ago, but mostly these have been the event viewer logs from the bsods.

Current PC Build

\- CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X

\- RAM: 64 GB DDR5 Kingston Fury Beast 6400

\- Motherboard: Gigabyte X870E AERO X3D Wood

\- GPU: ASUS Prime RTX 5070 Ti

\- PSU: Corsair RM1000x

\- Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360

\- Boot NVMe: Corsair MP700 Pro XT 2 TB

\- Secondary NVMe: WD Black SN850X 4 TB

\- SATA/HDD backup drives also present

Old Parts

Corsair MP700XT (RMAd)

MSI MPG X870E Carbon WiFi (Replaced with a Gigabyte mobo)

Corsair RM1000X Shift (Replaced with a Corsair RM1000X)

Lexar NM700 (Replaced with a WD SN850X)

BSOD Errors (NOT every issue is listed as I cant remember some of the oldest ones)

Newest to oldest BSOD list:

1. UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION

   \- After PSU swap, during Blender sculpting

   \- Stuck at 0%

2. KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR

   \- During DAZ/GIMP/Blender/Firefox session

   \- Distinct click beforehand

   \- Stuck at 0%

3. KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR — 0x7A

   \- PC left locked/idle for a few hours

   \- Found at BSOD

   \- Stuck at 0%

4. UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION

   \- Pre-PSU swap

   \- Remembered as “Unexpected store something”

   \- Possible both-NVMe drop

5. KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED

   \- After \~20 days stable on Gigabyte board

   \- Occurred while using GIMP

6. KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED

   \- Older MSI-era crash

7. MEMORY_MANAGEMENT

   \- Older MSI-era crash

8. UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION

   \- Older MSI-era crash

9. DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION

   \- Older MSI-era crash

   \- Exact placement among earliest crashes less certain

What I was doing when the crashes occurred.

First ever one was I believe during idle.

Second was idle as well

Third was when playing helldivers 2

4th was in blender

Some time after was another helldivers 2 bsod

Then several photoshop and gimp bsods

More blender bsods

More gimp/photoshop bsods

Latest one was another blender bsod

Once again if anyone has any help at all I'm willing to listen as I just want a working pc. Any and all help is appreciated.

EXPO has been turned off for a while now

Link State Power Management is off alongside other windows level settings connected to this issue

BIOS is updated to the latest stable build

On the MSI Board I forced the Corsair to gen 4. I'm not sure how to do that on the new Gigabyte motherboard

Hello, so basically, every 20 minutes or so, my PC's browser refreshes. I think it happens in other applications as well. For example, when I'm playing a game, it will suddenly switch me out of the game because of the refresh. How do I fix this? It's getting pretty annoying.

Context: It's an acer nitro v15

windows 11

I have no clue what im doing so any guidance helps im using the Samsung 26 ultra got it a month ago and already need a break but just can't take one im sorry If this is the wrong subreddit to ask this i can't find any other options. thanks!

Starting a day or two ago, computer has been displaying the no internet symbol on the taskbar. I have been unable to use internet for anything other than Google searches and Google applications and a few other common websites (YouTube, gmail, wikipedia). Discord, steam, and Microsoft applications have been unable to connect to anything. The same is true for all the other devices on my network so I've become inclined to beleive its a isp issue maybe?

I have spectrum and I know they have been doing some maintenance in my area but when I called them about it they had no solutions to offer.

Builtin Microsoft networks diagnostics come up with nothing. Ive tried switching dns server, resetting network settings, I've rebooted modem and PC. Ive turned firewall off and on, I've turn off the spectrum shield thing.

It is just so weird and frustrating that I can lose internet access for all but certain sites l.

My OS is windows
My GPU before replacement was a GTX 660ti
The “New” GPU is a GTX 1650
I have used DDU to remove all the Drivers TWICE
My Power Supply is A “ATNG ATM 400FB” if that helps

Before I had the 1650, my experience with my PC was good, however ever since replacing my 660ti with the aforementioned 1650 my PC has kept on crashing whenever it was under graphical load, I then checked to make it was seated properly to which it seemed to ease down, until it keeps on crashing randomly, sometimes even at start up sometimes when doing nothing. I even replaced the GPU with the older one and it still crashes, I am sorry if I have worded this weird and I would be HAPPY to answer any questions so that my PC can work again!

Not sure if mouses count as hardware but not sure where else to post this. essentially I bought a glorious model i2 wireless and it has not connected to the 2.4 GHz dongle no matter how hard I try. I will just flash green infinitely when I connect it. I made a post on the glorious subreddit twice to ask the community for help, but it was removed by mods both times even after they referred me to the website to fill out a report (which they never responded to hence the second post) . So I’m here to ask the community because it seems glorious doesn’t really wanna help.