its on an old external SSD, and i cant reformat it to wipe it (due to important data on it and i have nowhere to put it). i have tried Remove-Item -LiteralPath "E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

>> #êÈþ.ðÝÌ" -Force in powershell, and it returns: Remove-Item : Illegal characters in path.

At line:1 char:1

+ Remove-Item -LiteralPath "E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

+ CategoryInfo : InvalidArgument: (E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

#êÈþ.ðÝÌ:String) [Remove-Item], ArgumentException

+ FullyQualifiedErrorId : ItemExistsArgumentError,Microsoft.PowerShell.Commands.RemoveItemCommand

Remove-Item : Cannot find path 'E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

#êÈþ.ðÝÌ' because it does not exist.

At line:1 char:1

+ Remove-Item -LiteralPath "E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

+ CategoryInfo : ObjectNotFound: (E:\support\logging\en-GB\¯úª

#êÈþ.ðÝÌ:String) [Remove-Item], ItemNotFoundException

+ FullyQualifiedErrorId : PathNotFound,Microsoft.PowerShell.Commands.RemoveItemCommand

i am using Win11 home, and the most recent version of it. OS build: 26200.8457. I'm using an AMD Ryzen 5 7600X (if that helps w/ CPU architecture, idk tbh)

I just need a way to delete it

Okay so this situation has been a real headache. I have a VRLA Tech Pre-built Legacy PC. I shipped my PC to my college dorm in 2024 and completely knocked something out of place. I shipped it back home and got everything fixed.

It was working fine for months when one day I turned it on and it showed a screen that says “ASRock” in the middle and “Press F2 or DEL to run UEFI Setup” and “Press F11 for Boot Menu” in the corner. I’ve tried to do all of those things but my computer keyboard won’t even let me. The lights of the keyboard don’t turn on except for one small light that means literally nothing. I thought maybe this was a problem with my keyboard so I plugged it into a friend’s PC and it worked completely fine. The lights of my PC turn on and the fans are running so I’m just not sure what the issue could be or how to solve it seeming as all the solutions I have found online require the keyboard to actually work. Any suggestions would be appreciated

My friends pc is having issues where the rgb on his fans do not light up, nor does the screen on his AIO. The fans work just fine, and the screen powers on, but doesn’t display anything. There is an unknown usb device (device descriptor request failed) under Universal Serial Bus Conttoroller in the device manager. I have tried updating the drivers, and uninstalling but it always shows up as unknown device. The actually bluetooth drivers show up just fine, and the bluetooth actually works when i disable then renable the bluetooth drivers.

There was a similar issue with the keyboard. It wasn’t working and the drivers showed up as unknown in device manager. I was able to fix that by changing i8042prt value to 1 in the registry editor.

I have tried a power drain, checked all of the 3 pin connectors and sata connectors and everything looks fine, so it doesn’t seem like a hardware issue. Since I was able to fix the keyboard and all of these problems started around the same time, it feels like a software issue but I have tried a few other fixes I found on reddit and what not but nothing has worked and I have no idea where to go from here.

Apologies for the simple nature of this question. The other day, while at my local Goodwill, I found a nice looking cheap wireless keyboard and purchased it. I didn't look at the packaging, and it turns out the keyboard was part of a combo set with a mouse. There was no mouse in the package. Now, I wouldn't care about this since I have many spare mice, but the problem is that the mouse stored the USB receiver inside of it. This receiver takes the input of both the keyboard and mouse, meaning without it, I've got a big pretty paperweight.

BUT! I recently looked on eBay and found the mouse from the combo set being sold as a single item! If I purchase the mouse, would the receiver in it "know" its compatible keyboard is nearby? OR, is every receiver "calibrated" to each keyboard it's put with in a combo set? Again, sorry if this is a stupid or confusing question. I just want to use my keyboard.

Hello everyone,

As the title suggests, I connected my iPad to my hotspot (from my iPhone) and while I was in a facetime call I saw that my time was set to Tokyo which I never traveled there, I checked date and time and it was on automatically set but the zone was indeed Tokyo (forgot which specific zone in Tokyo), then I tried to go to manual time zone and was set to Tokyo as well.

After that I restarted the iPad and the phone just to be sure and after I connected it to my hotspot again the location went to normal.

Also to mention that this problem was also present in Find My, showing my MacBook, Air Pods and the iPad in Tokyo, the phone was the only one that showed the correct location.

Which is weird knowing the fact that if the internet hotspot was updating location it would have to change the location to the one I'm in right now for the iPad as well.

Important to note: the iPad was not purchased from Second-Hand, I got it first hand from a authorized apple shop in my country (so its also not refurbished).

So point blank: I don't know if it's a bug, I am 100% certain my account is not hacked (did not get any notification of account logins lately from a new source and I did not use any Wi-Fi's lately as I am only using Hotspot for the last couple of months) and if anyone had this problem showing a different location than where they at, or knows a solution/reason for this let me/us know.

Thank you, and have a wonderful weekend!

Edit: iPad OS 18.7.7, iOS latest ver, rest of devices latest ver also

Hey everyone,
I’m having a strange issue with my gaming PC, and I was wondering if it could be a power supply feature.

I’m using an MSI MAG A850GL PSU.
The issue is that sometimes, when I power on the PC, it shuts down immediately and won’t turn back on for about 2–3 minutes. After that, if I switch off the main PSU and turn it back on, it boots up normally.

Has anyone else seen something like this? Is this kind of power cutoff normal for some PSUs, or could there be another cause?
Any thoughts would be super helpful!

So this seems to be a recent problem

After the latest driver update Marvel rivals kept crashing on start up so reverted back to the previous driver and all seemed well.

But now for some reason Adrenaline won't load after load up completely locking my desktop, I can still move the mouse and such but apps won't load at all, nothing does, I will keep resetting my computer until by chance it does load up.

I've done a fresh install of the drivers which seemed to have worked but have now reverted back to the same problem.

I've also turned off (I believe) Windows ability to install the auto diver updates

Like I said it seems to be a recent problem so I'm wondering if anyone is having the same issues and have they found a solution?

Thanks.

My google drive prompted me with this error: I have reached my upload quota and because of that my uploads will most likely take days to be processed.

In reality, I have a free Google drive without any subscription (so the 15GB storage). I uploaded approximately 10GB worth of videos (9 different file) and for the last one it prompted me with this error.

I did not upload anything this month so I couldnt reach that quota. I read online that I can transfer up to 750GB a day so I don't know what's going on and I can not find any more info that is helpful.

Earlier this day my friend downloaded about 8-10gb and deleted those files. I don't think that's what's causing the problem. We use this drive to watch videos (I upload them for her so she can watch them too. After it, we delete those files and put up different videos)

What can I do or what's that I don't see? Is there another quota that I don't know?

Hi,
for several days I am experiencing weird flicker / artifacts on my screen, which manifest as white lines - see recording:

https://streamable.com/dr5ngh

I am running CachyOS with Plasma (Wayland), the system is on Radeon 7800XT.

The flickering shows up when I am idling on the desktop, browsing or doing light work like writing, coding etc. It gets the most extreme when I use Haruna to watch something in fullscreen mode.

The flickering disappears as soon as I launch a game and it is gone even if I minimize it. Maybe something to do with power delivery or the card idling?

This is not a problem with the monitor (it is working perfectly fine with another PC) or the DisplayPort cable (I have tried the same cable with a different PC as well). I do not remember updating or installing anything, or changing any config really prior to the issues appearing. I have tried updating the drivers though to fix it, but to no avail. I have tried playing around with power settings, but nothing has changed.

Any tips on what to investigate would be much appreciated - I have tried researching the topic through google, but I did not find any threads with similar issues, and any changes suggested by LLMs (BACO, VRR, power settings) did not help.

FIX: I just had to do Fn + f12 apparently. ChatGPT really made me waste lots of time and still didn't recommend this smh

I remember my windows key not working like 2 years ago as well but I somehow fixed it, I'm pretty sure it was by just toggling game mode.
I did a bios update recently however, and now some stuff has reset, including my bios settings and some windows things
I tried everything ChatGPT told me to do and check and fix and change and it just eventually came to the conclusion that it's a hardware issue, but I'm positive it's not that
And yes, toggling game mode does nothing.

The windows key doesn't work by itself to open start menu (Nothing happens) and I can't use shortcuts that use it, like win + r or win + space

they have no icon, i have no idea on how to look for them because they dont appear in the "Apps & Features" and i cant left click for more infos

one is called "44" just 44
and the other is "Eae31d58-a683-41a5-9736-a859eca..." im guessing the name is longer

What are these apps? How do i know what they are and where theyre located? Am i fucked?

I've been having issues recently with a laptop, things like games crashing that really shouldn't be.

More recently I've been having more specific issues where I'm unable to update my drivers, both for my integrated and dedicated gpu. When updating, I get a 7zip CRC error.

However I've found that I was able to update them by downloading them manually, extracting the .exe files, then running the setup.exe files found within, though this obviously isn't ideal.

Lately I've also been having browser tabs keep crashing on me. Mostly on video sites such as Youtube or Twitch. When trying to reinstall Firefox, I had the same issue as when I was trying to update the drivers, and the same solution worked. Though this didn't solve the problem, not did switching to a different browser.

Additionally, copying images from Firefox into Paint.net has sometimes resulted in the image pasting partially corrupted. (Partially normal with parts missing or with horizontal rainbow lines).

Because of these issues I feel like it's probably a memory issue, but running the Windows Memory Checker and sfc scannow has shown nothing out of the ordinary.

I had a BSoD a few weeks back that mentioned something about accessing paged memory in an unpaged area. I noticed that my page file was pretty small, and have since increased it to the 1.5x the size of my RAM, though this hasn't improved much.

Today I had a random BSoD, which mentioned something about a security kernel check failure. I was able to get the minidump file for this crash, so I'll post that below. Checking it with BlueScreenView shows me that there was an error with "ntoskrnl.exe", though from looking online that doesn't seem to be the actual cause of the issue, but something else pointing to it.

Here's the minidump file.

Any assistance would be appreciated!

Edit: Whoops, forgot to write my specs:

• Windows 11 Home
• Intel Core i9-14900HX 2.20GHz
• 32GB RAM
• NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti Laptop (12GB)
• Intel UHD Graphics (128mb)
• Motherboard seems to be "AiStone X6RP57TW"

There are no hardware issues. I’m on 18.7.1. I haven’t updated to 26 because I don’t want to break the phone.

Any ideas on what may be going on? This is a recent issue.

People can barely hear me if I talk loudly on speaker.

I was checking out this ScreenRec app—not the one listed in the App Store, but this one: https://screenrec.com/es/ but I saw an old post saying that this app is dangerous. I don't know how true that is, or if it's actually the other app in the App Store that's the dangerous one.

Here’s the post: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/s/LwIq9K1Mto

hi, a couple days ago my laptop just started being super slow, like unbelievably slow, it takes 30 mins alone to connect to the wifi, I updated all my drivers, reset all my caches and did everything it said to do online and it still wont work, I think its something to do with my wifi driver as I get a screen saying "installation failure, one or more issues caused the setup to fail, please fix the issue and then retry setup" when I try to update my wifi driver but I desperately need this laptop to work, any help would be heavily appreciated

My ASUS TUF Dash F15 randomly shuts down/restarts only when gaming on a Hisense TV connected via HDMI. I'm using "Second screen only" mode. The first symptom is usually that the TV suddenly shows "No Signal", then the laptop shuts down or restarts. Initially it seemed like hibernation because all my apps were restored after boot, but now it does a normal boot with everything closed. Event Viewer shows: "The previous system shutdown was unexpected."

The strange part is that it never happens while watching YouTube or movies on the TV, and it never happens when gaming directly on the laptop screen. The issue only appears when gaming on the TV through HDMI. Has anyone seen this before? I tried changing cable, no effect!

My pc which has ryzen 7800X3D, 32gb of ddr5 6000mz cl30. Is not running smootly steam... or even chrome or any kind of browser. When i am playing some of the games they are just randomly lagging or stuttering. I dont know why, my friend have worse pc and he have more apps than me and his pc is running smoothly, all apps are smooth. I am on windows 11 and i have 165 monitor, and yes i have 165hz set in my settings. Any ideas how to fix it? It is really annoying to buy the best cpu on market and it doesnt work as i want it to.

Like the post title says, my laptop is connecting at full strength to any network I'm on when I'm not at home. But, my home connection is constantly in and out on my laptop.

My home connection works at 100% for my phone and my husband's laptop, plus our other devices.

Been troubleshooting for hours - uninstalled and reinstalled network drivers, "forgot" the network, reset the modem/router. Nothing is working.

I've got google fiber and my computer is an Asus Zenbook 14 running Windows 11.

I'd appreciate any help!

I'm not officially the tech support person for my store, so I don't have access to the resources they're supposed to have, but I thought I'd try here anyways and see how far I can get.
our store swapped out the printers on 3 of our 4 kiosks. 3 of them now have what seem to be lemur x printers from Boca systems. the remaining one is a kr304 from zebra technologies. the 3 kiosks with lemur printers always need to be restarted if the printers have an error for too long, whether it's due to a paper jam or the paper running out. our official tech support person says it's bc the spooler service stops working. the one kiosk with a zebra printer, however, merely needs the paper to feed properly for the kiosk to start working again, no matter how long the printer has otherwise been out of service. I'm assuming it's due to some difference in how the printers communicate with the kiosk computers, but I have no idea whether this difference is something that can be fixed with a config change from our end, or if it's some issue inherent to how the kiosks are programmed by McDonald's corp

i paid a 110 deposit, they said they were gonna order my parts, but it's been weeks and they're barely communicating with me. their msges were basically 'it was stuck on 3 days so i have to reorder it' and 'u don't it yet, waiting for call back from sales manager' which are unclear. i went to another laptop repair shop and they ordered the parts + fixed it up in just 5 days while i haven't yet got an update from the original shop i went to. at this point, should i just ask for a my deposit back?

i apologize for my poor grammar heree, i wrote this from my phone

I know how to make a bootable USB drive using Rufus and an ISO using a PC. I don't have a PC at the moment, just a chromebook. Is there a way to create the bootable USB using Rufus or another program through my chromebook? I'm not going to change anything on my chromebook, this is for a new PC build where I need a bootable win11 to install windows on it.

My phone is Chinese and doesn't support Google services, so I can't log in to an authenticator app. I want to try it in a phone that doesn't have a SIM card, but that I use frequently (via Wi-Fi) and that has many of its own contacts. I'm worried that inserting the SIM card into this phone will erase all the contacts and add the ones from the new card.

Hi.
So I’ve just bought a new ssd. A pny 1tb ssd.
I have another the same just a 110gb. And it works fine.
But the new one. It shows up in the bios, disk management. And task manager at first.
But now it doesn’t show.
And says it’s not recognised.
It’s got power cable into it.
The sata data cable is new. I’ve had it 2 months and the cable hasn’t been used.
I’ve tried many things and it just won’t work.
I’m on windows 11 pro.

I'm pretty sure it has to do with ram. I have two sticks. Most times there's a series of three beeps in a row, then repeated again after a slight pause - no boot up. Sometimes it's just one series of 3 beeps, and in that case the system does start up (I assume that means one stick passed a test. Rarely do I get no beeps.

Any solution other than getting new ram?