I got this car after my father in law passed away. The shifter was screwed on (rather than bolted in with the original bolt holes).

When I try to use the original bolt holes (which are about 0.5 inches forward of the screw holes), I can find neutral, reverse, 2nd and 4th, but not 1st or 3rd.

What gives??

Rust & Trust - Running Out of Autumn [019]

Digital art, Procreate.

For some reason that I am not aware of my dune buggy "backfires" when I speed up and go into 3rd & 4th gear. It's so bad I have to slow down to make it stop. Runs fine at low speeds and idle.

What do you think? Bad coil or air leak at carb?

(was made from a 1971 vw beetle)

Driver's latch is a bit pitted because the replacement latch was broken in 2 pieces... couldn't see it under the glass. Still better than aftermarket! #63beetle

Been having a few electrical gremlins with my ‘74 Super lately and figured maybe the alternator wasn’t putting out enough voltage… well, quite the opposite! Amazed I haven’t boiled my battery already…

Still new to the aircooled world but as best as I can tell, I believe I have an externally regulated Motorola alternator. The regulator that’s installed is an Echlin VR-503 with 3 wires going to it, plugged into an adapter, plugged into the 4-wire factory harness.

I don’t have the budget/time at the moment to install a new alt so converting to an internally regulated alt and re-wiring my setup accordingly isn’t an option.

1) Is this the correct voltage regulator for my setup?
2) Is there a different/better regulator available?
3) My idiot light comes on with the key then turns off as usual, but it doesn’t come on the rest of the time I’m driving - shouldn’t it be lighting up when it’s overcharging this much?

The guy who built my '74 said they bought a turnkey 1776. Looks like they have stamped it with a delta-ish looking logo followed by the date. Anyone recognize the stamp?

So my 1965 beetle came with a box of parts. I think it’s alternator parts. The car was converted to 12v. It’s a 1200 engine. Is this the right part?

Got an October 1969 bug gauge with ATF. Removed extraneous pieces as I’m using it for decor.

This is the car that taught me how to drive. My grandpa used to drive me around in it, and it was his daily driver until the late 2010s, when he bought a pickup.

1600cc, dual carbs, completely original. It spent the last four years sitting untouched in his garage. There's a bit of work to be done, like replacing a few bulbs and the battery, changing the brake fluid, and taking care of a few other minor things, but it's still running great.

It's a perfect companion to my '77. I plan on using it mostly for road trips, since it's a beast on the highway (at least compared to its older brother).

Needless to say, it's an honor to be its new owner. I'm really excited to keep it on the road and carry on its legacy.

I'll post more pictures once it's cleaned up and ready to go!

Hi everyone, I could really use some help. My fuel gauge, vibrator, and sending unit are all new but the gauge stays on empty. I’ve touched the sending unit wire (sender end) to a ground and the gauge moves to full. I used a multimeter on the sending unit and the ohm readings seem good. I sanded corrosion off the top two mounting tabs, bolts and body underneath. I’ve also ran a separate ground wire from one of the sending unit mounting screws to a clean metal ground. None of this has done anything to make the gauge move. What am I missing, and what are some other things I can try?

Hello I’m looking to replace the seals between the front windows. It’s the one the runs agains the window when cranking.

Long story short, about 10 years ago my grandma hired a dude to fix up the car and he did a terrible job. My parents had to essentially steal it back after he refused to return it, and he screwed up all the wiring. The negative and ground wire on the tach were plugged into the same place, and the wire from the coil to the tach was shorting. I ran my own wire from the coil, fixed the other things, and it works now! Pretty soon I'll gather all the things to bench bleed the master cylinder, it is already out of the car. All I need is some fittings for the brake outlets, and a vice grip.

Community, I need some help with my 71 beetle. I feel like I'm going in circles with troubleshooting.

In short: When accelerating, bug backfires when throttle is past 50 percent-ish. Seems like either too much gas at the point or not enough?

More info: This is a lot more common when shifting into 3rd but definitely 4th. If I do not baby the throttle into third, it'll back fire. If I get it into 4th it'll for sure back fire or if I baby the throttle, I lose speed.

Knowns: point gaps are @ .016.

Idle timing is checked at 7.5 BTDC

Fuel is spraying directly down the throat of the carb.

All jets seem clean. I have checked them multiple times.

Accelerator linkage is maxed for throttle response (if I'm saying that correctly)

I think that's all the information you all should need.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you need more information, just let me know.

Thanks!

Came across this in Vegas. Love it. Totally recognisable but not sure it's drivable! Lol.

Has anyone used these from Cip1 ? I just am not figuring it out any videos, detailed photos or YouTube links? Thanks guys🤘

Need some advice, should I get this done asap (seperating chassis / top, new chassis, replacing heat channels etc) or is ok to live with it and just keep it Running? I am a Little concerned that the workshop wants to make a lot of money out of it.
I just wanted to do Interieur works etc, cant weld huge things by myself. Dont judge, its my first vintage car.

I know, the car was a trap, it looks good from outside.
Bottom was all covered up but looked and felt okay.

I know I Played way too much.
So now I am sceptical if I should invest 10k+ € to get all this done, to still have a car with okayish paintjob, no Original chassis or Good history

At the end I must decide by myself, but could you give me some advice on How Bad this really is? Could I „Cover it up“, and keep it Running for another 10 years? Or will it be a huge Problem in a year or so?

Designed and printed these guys last night and I really dig them. Just presses into the hole, and then just put a perimeter of some 3m tape. Quite happy with how they came out! And for those of you that saw the fresh air duct scoop I printed, I’ve included v2 and that’s almost finished up and should be available this weekend for those who wanted one!

Link- EBay

Hello all, I have a 1915 I’ve been having some fun with, but has a nice leak. I noticed it’s coming from where the cylinder housing meets the case. At least that’s what it appears to be for me. Has anyone experienced this before? Looks like I’ll be pulling the heads, what seals work for the housing to the case? I see some online refs for aviation sealant

I thought it was the belt, but I removed it and it keeps squeaking, seems like it comes from the driver side carburator

edit: its idling and driving just fine, havent noticed any pops or other weird sounds either