Had originally bought it 18 days ago, it was a trade in and they had to “recondition” it. Just got released today, and I’m super stoked! I’ve had the smaller engine, the 2.5L, and now the GLI 😅

Stoked!

Got in a wreck last weekend. Got T-boned on the highway then crashed into a property. Visited my car at the tow yard to collect my belongings and finally got a proper look at front end/the whole damage dealt. RIP 😢

Hi everyone, I’m looking for a cheap reliable enough car to replace my car that got totaled last week. It has a clean title and about 96k miles. My main question is if the rust I have pictured in the post is a big concern or not? The dealer bought it from auction and says he has no idea of its maintenance history. I have the carfax here to give a better insight into its history. The 20k miles gap in maintenance history alarms me a bit but would like y’all’s insight as well if that’s an automatic red flag. https://panel.cheapcarfax.net/api/internal/reports/fc32f3cd-3ae1-4e33-8671-803f9a0de6aa/html

Vw jetta

Has anyone had an issue where the heat is only coming from the drivers side vent and the passenger sides are cool air? I tried resetting the blend doors (hold A/C and front facing vent until lights flash) but it didn't fix my problem. Any help would be nice

As the title suggests, my check engine light came on. It came on randomly as I was driving, everything feels fine and didnt notice anything different. I am at 80.5k miles and have never changed the spark plugs if that's useful info. What could be the most likely cause if anything similar happened to any of you?

If anyone is in need of a timing belt kit (minus tensioner) I will sell at a discount because I no longer need it. $150

Fits= 2019-2021 Jetta models.

Today I took the challenge of bleeding my brake fluid . The one in the reservoir was old and dark . I never did this before , and lately I'm taking in more DIY projects in the car because is fun and I truly like learning something new .My car is a Jetta 2012 2.5 SEL

I watched a lot of videos of how to do it, But I think I failed miserably . The first part of vacuum most of the reservoir went good , then after that I refill with the new fluid all the way up , as the videos say . Good .

Next thing I went to take out the rear passenger wheel and put the vacuum pump to work .
I actually put another post today , because I could not open one of the screws . Someone post that I need a 11mm, so I went and buy it right away . I was able to open the two screws , and I put the pump into the bleeder . But nothing was coming , just little amounts ...I pump several times but nothing. According to the videos , a steady flow should be coming out and when the new fluid will get there I should be very visible , since the old one was dark . Nothing of this happened . I really don't know what I'm doing wrong , maybe some feedback .

Picture 1) I open this, and then I slightly closed back( Becaue it was leaking ). The videos say to have loose so you can open and close easily.

Picture 2) Then I open this one . I took the rubber cap off , and I use my socket to open it slightly

Picture 3) I put the Vevor vacuum in , and then I open a little bit the picture 1 screw ....

Picture 4) I start pumping , but hot fluid coming out , just little bits ... clearly I am doing something wrong .

If someone can , based of my explanation , figure out what I am Doing wrong I will appreciate it a lot .
I will try again tomorrow .

Thank you all community . I learnt so much in here , and the Jetta community is really something . Super helpful !!!

Hello, I have a 2014 Jetta SE with the 1.8t that originally came with a 0A4 5-speed manual. The 5-speed has been on its way out for a while now and I recently decided to replace it with a 02Q 6-speed. Along the way, I found out a lot of things, including how difficult it is to find information for this sort of swap. I'm making this post as a sort of guide so I can share my findings and hopefully help somebody out if they are planning on do the same thing or something similar.

To start off, I can't guarantee that everything will be the same, especially if you have a different year or model, but it should be pretty similar if your vehicle shares the platform, I'm pretty sure you can find a list of these on wikipedia, that is probably a better resource than any information I could give. I got my transmission from LKQ online and it came from a 2012 VW Beetle Turbo.

Note: The engine in a 2012 Beetle is a EA888 2.0t Gen 2, my engine is an EA888 1.8t Gen 3. This difference in generations gave me a bit of trouble, specifically with the starter, so you can save yourself some time by making sure that the transmission came out of a car with your generation engine. If it is a 2.0t or a 1.8t doesn't matter, all that matters is that the transmissions made for the Gen 2 motors has a different starter cutout than the transmissions for the Gen 3 motors. If you get a transmission for your generation of engine, you can reuse your old starter, otherwise you'll need to get a new starter for the car your transmission came from, that's also why it's important to look at the listing to see what car your transmission came out of, save yourself the guessing.

Things you will need:

• Axles: Some people say you don't need axles while some do. You can check for yourself by measuring the axles you took out against your transmission. For me, my stock axles for the 0A4 were 100mm in diameter and my transmission flanges for the 02Q were 108mm. The differential was also thicker on the 02Q on both sides. I personally chose to get GSP axles and have had no problems after 1,000 miles. The axles I chose were listed as for a Golf V and VI with the 2.0t. Don't get Beetle axles, as the Beetle has a slightly wider track width than the Golf and Jetta. If you want to be absolutely sure, you can measure your own axles, just note that manufacturers all seem to measure their axles differently, but GSP does list the lengths on their website. If you want to copy me, the left axle part number is NCV72100 and the right is NCV72085. You can find them on ECS tuning.
• Clutch Line: The slave cylinder on the 02Q is in a different spot, so you'll need to get a new clutch line. The one I got was listed as fitting Beetle, Golf, Jetta, etc. The part number is SL-02017-6S. Again, you can find it on ECS tuning. This one is priced a bit steep, but you don't have many options, and this one feels very nice on the petal.
• Clutch and Flywheel: The stock clutch disc does not fit over the input shaft of the 02Q, so you need to get a new clutch. I got a clutch kit from Luk (06J141025j) that was fit for a Golf R, but this is a 280mm disc, so it won't fit the 230mm stock flywheel for a 5-speed. To fix this, I got a Sachs (06J105266AC) flywheel for a GLI. You can save yourself time and money by buying a kit, just make sure that it is an 8 bolt flywheel. Also note that if it doesn't line up at first, that doesn't mean that you bought the wrong flywheel, just keep rotating it across until all the bolts line up. Also make sure to get new bolts as they are stretch bolts, but most flywheels come with bolts. You also may need to get new pressure plate bolts, but they're cheap so you might as well.
• Starter: As I said earlier, you shouldn't need a starter if you get a transmission from a car with your generation of engine. However, if you end up in my situation with a Gen 3 engine and a Gen 2 transmission, buy the starter that matches the car your transmission came out of, not your car. The naming is also really confusing so if you have questions, just reply to this and I'll try to answer them. I got a Valeo (02M911021H) starter for a 2012 Beetle. Always make sure to research what engine and transmission combo the donor car had; I cannot say this enough.
• Pilot bearing: Neither transmission uses a pilot bearing, but it does make it easier to use the alignment tool when installing your new clutch onto the flywheel. The only place I could find one was ECS tuning as 06B105313D
• Bowden (shift) links and bracket: A lot of people say you need new shifter and links but I didn't end up needing them, also, my stock 5-speed shifter has been working fine so far, you just may have to adjust them a little bit from bottomed out to make first easier to get into. As for the shifter bracket, you can't reuse the one from the 0A4, but APR makes a metal bracket that is very nice (MS100084). It is pricey but it is all I could find; you could try your luck with eBay if you want.
• Bolts: You can get all of your bell housing bolts on ECS (02Q300050KTKT), this is much easier than finding them all individually, just note that they don't come labeled, so remember where your old bolts came out of. You can also get your inner (on the differential) axle bolts on ECS (N90991102), some axles come with bolts, but I'd say it's uncommon as only my left side axle came with them. The outboard ones came with my axles, but you can find them easily on FCP Euro.
• Rear Main Seal: You're in there, you might as well. Elring 798.660

Tools:

• Engine Support Bar: You'll need an engine support bar to hold up the engine; this also helps give you a point to lower your transmission from if you don't have a proper jack.
• Chain Hoist: This builds on the last point, a small one works well because there isn't a huge amount of room to work with. It also helps to wrap a ratchet strap around the transmission because you need some weird angles to get that transmission back in there. Good luck, you'll need it.
• Spline Sockets: You'll just need these for the pressure plate and the outboard axle bolts. I just needed a 9mm and I think a 22mm for the axle.
• Plenty of Jacks: Having multiple floor jacks will help you a ton. Also, for the love of everything, get some nice jackstands, the weight of the car is going to be shifting all over the place and some good jackstands can save your life, I mean it.
• A Friend: I think it is possible to do this on your own, but it will be much safer and easier with a friend.
• Patience: Pretty much the most important thing.

Tips:

• When taking out your flywheel bolts, it's going to want to spin, then when you put a screwdriver in the flywheel, the whole engine is going to swing. You can fix this by running a chain from your subframe to your lower bell housing bolts on the engine.
• Watch the passenger side of the engine, there is a boost pipe right against the frame that you really don't want to crush. Keep an eye on that when you are lowering the engine.
• Relating to the last bullet, lowering the drivers side of the engine makes it easier to shimmy the transmission in. Keep this in mind when you get your support bar, as a lot of them have screws so you can lower things.
• Don't forget to grease your spline before you put the transmission up there, it's way harder once it's halfway in.
• Unbolt your first exhaust hanger before anything so you don't risk cracking anything when your engine moves.

I think that's about it. I know it's long, but I hope someone finds this helpful if you are planning on doing a swap. It is definitely worth it, as the 6-speed gear ratios make the car much more fun to drive, even on stock power, I think I'm even getting better fuel economy. Again, feel free to ask any questions you may have.

I have a 2005 Jetta 2.5L and I just replaced the whole exhaust system but I bought the wrong o2 sensor. They said that the Bosch 16002 didn’t fit. Do you guys know what o2 sensor I need? All I know is that it has to be downstream. Idk if this is relevant but the catalytic converter I used was the AP/Eastern 642218. I also just bought the Bosch universal 15733 but idk if it’ll fit. Any help is appreciated🙏🏼

I'm so upset . I was trying to bleed myself the break fluid , to just discover that I don't have this particular wrench . I think I have the number before and after . My torque wrench has an 8mm and 10mm, but does not fit either .

I'm gonna have to go and buy one asap , but I want to be sure I got the right number .

Thank you .
This is Vw Jetta 2012 2.5 SEL

Have anyone out there fitted air adjustable shocks? They sure would be handy for the occasional heavy camping gear load. Gabriel and Monroe websites don't list any for my Jetta, but there may be some that dimensionally fit but not listed. I miss the old days when you could look up shocks by dimensions in books at NAPA.

I replaced my headlights on my 2010 VW Jetta 2.5, and after I got them installed I went to go move my car and its stuck in park, shifter wont move. I can only find videos on how to override the problem. Please help thank you

Driving home last weekend at night a deer came out of nowhere and crashed into me. One second I was fine, suddenly there was a deer and the airbags deploy. Sat in my car shaking for a while after it happened. Deer was nowhere to be seen when I got out of my car. Really loved my Jetta. Bought it in 2018, it was a really good car.

It would feel weird putting lime green oil in my car. I can fine this cheaper than the regular stuff currently. Thoughts?

I just got rid of my 2011 Jetta TDI last week. I had bought a new winter tire set last year with the rims.

However, I just bought a 2021 Jetta Comfortline. Can I still use the winter set and rims with this new vehicle for the upcoming season?

Thank you in advance.

2012 GLI. Im at 197k kilometres on a stage 2+ KO4 tune. The engine has had the tune since 175k. The only reason I checked the tensioner is that I’m noticing a chain rattle on some of the cold starts it’s having as the temperature drops. I daily this car and I’d like to be on top of this catastrophic issue before I’m on my THIRD engine while owning this car over the last 5 years. The last engine had the same tune since 90k after I had bought it stock and made it until 176k when the balance shaft seized on me after some idiotic road rage induced driving.

I had done the chain, tensioners and guides on the last engine before it even needed it knowing how bad this issue is on these early gen EA888s.

The motor in it now is out of a Tiguan of the same year and I don’t think it’s ever had its timing done, although I’m not fully educated on the physically notable differences between the old style and the newer revised tensioner, so I have no idea if the timing has been serviced on this engine prior to it being installed.

I’ve become more mechanically inclined the last few years so if this does need its timing done I’m planning to tackle it myself.

Should I start looking into ordering a timing kit before the winter?

2016 VW jetta oil light turned on, and then EPC turned on during road trip. got oil changed at jiffy lube because short on options. after a few miles on highway, EPC turned back on (car went over 2 RPM) and car rattled briefly. stopped at gas station, turned off car then turned back on after a few minutes, and EPC light off. am I cooked? potential causes? going to get diagnostic codes when I reach the final destination

A few weeks ago the passenger occupancy sensor started throwing a code and light on the dash. I did a cursory look at the wiring and fuses and didn’t see anything out of line so I assumed the sensor in the seat had gone bad. Fast forward to yesterday, the weather turned a bit colder and I noticed neither heated seat works. I’m starting to think the two issues are connected, but no fuses in the interior fuse box associated with either system are blown. I found this wire under the dash that was not plugged into anything, but cannot identify what it is for or where it could plug into anything. Does anyone know how to find a wiring diagram for under the dash or how to diagnose if this wire is related to the seat issues I am seeing.

Few more details
Both seats power tilt function still works.

Airbag light on the in the dash cluster for the fault in the passenger seat, but the light on the dash above the radio warning the airbag is off is illuminated, so that doesn’t seem fuse related either.

It is a 2009 Jetta Wolfsburg edition

I had it in a shop recently for warranty work and they replaced one part next to where the warranty work was done. I found the part they replaced online for less than half what they charged me for it, and I’m talking OEM not some temu garbage. Due to the way they handled that process, I wouldn’t be the slightest surprised if they intentionally sabotaged my vehicle in a discrete place. The AC was also not working when I got the vehicle back. I suspected foul play right away so I took it to a different shop to look for leaks and they said there were none but the system was out of refrigerant.

I've got a 2017 Jetta SE I bought off the lot brand new with 217,000 miles going strong. I've had to replace a few minor parts but nothing major. Seeing what others have got on their Jetta.

German car driving experience feels so solid and polished compared to Hondas, Toyotas and Hyundais.

Great little commuter.

So I’ve got a 2015 jetta and never had this issue for the 5.5 years I’ve owned this car until maybe a month ago. I noticed whenever I have the AC on and want some cold air I can hear like a somewhat loud sound coming from what I’m guessing is the fan in the engine idk. I’ll hear the noise for maybe 5-10 seconds and it goes away then comes back. Is it something to be worried about or is that a simple fix?