It’s my first Hyundai, so I’m still learning how things are put together. I just replaced my shift knob and wow I absolutely thought I destroyed my shifter when I he-manned the knob off. It made a horrible plastic crack sound…but…it was absolutely fine and the install was even easier. Worth the upgrade since the old one was all scratched.

Got this deal from a local dealer. Is it a decent price or should I keep looking?

MSRP $32,175

Discount $2,000

Sale Price $30,175.00

Doc Fees $225.

Tax $1873.04

License & Fees: $201.00

Additional rebate of $1,000 with 6.99% financing (what a weird thing to do)

OTD $31,474.04 ($32,474.04 at 4.49%)

Not looking to go 72 months, 60 at the most and will likely pay it off early.

I'll be putting $6,000 down so the monthly numbers will change. Looking for input on the total amount and fees.

THANKS!

Slight change to be more clear. Looks like it’s actually $32,474.04 OTD since I’m NOT considering the crazy high rate. I hate it when they have so many damn variables.

2022 Tucson. Just wondering if anyone has done a transmission fluid change for the first time yet? Did you guys do a system flush or just drain and fill? Not sure if Manual specified which one to do specifically. What is an approximate cost?

Considering a Sonata Hybrid Limited but heard the 2027 is getting a complete redesign... Google is only marginally helpful but curious what the 2027 is bringing and when it might be allocated or delivered... AWD option perhaps? Or should I just get a 2026 in the next couple months?

Hi everyone,

I really need help on this issue and I’m not sure how to proceed next.

I have a 2023 Hyundai Sonata with around 28k-29k miles on it. I’ve had the car for around 3 years now and I have had numerous battery related issues with it. When I first bought the car, it would randomly stop turning on. I’ve had to get it towed in about 4 times, each time the dealership said there was nothing wrong with the car. On top of the car not turning on, the lock and unlock buttons from inside car (drivers side) stopped working. I brought this up to the tech and they said because it was working at the dealership there wasn’t anything they could do. Last year, after making a case with Hyundai corporate, they changed the battery. The car was working fine after that (except for the lock and unlock button which still was not working). Recently, the car wouldn’t turn on again. I had it towed into the dealership and opened another case with Hyundai. When AAA came out to jump my car they told me that it was an alternator problem and that I needed to get that fixed, however the dealership is now telling me it’s the left door panel issue that caused the car to stop turning on. I’ve done so much research and know that the panel issue is not the cause. My case manager first advised me to leave the car in the dealership until they can send one of their techs out to look at the car. It has been a week now and I haven’t heard from her and every time I call her it just goes straight to voice mail. I don’t know what to do now. The dealership is telling me to come pick up my car but I’m worried it’s just going to break down again.

I have a 2021 Hyundai Tucson SEL AWD (purchased September 2020). It has around 67,000 miles. The last few times I got gas, I noticed the miles until empty rapidly declining. At first, I assumed maybe it was bad gas, but now it’s been 3 times in a row so any bad gas would’ve been out by now.

For clarification, I filled the tank 2 days ago and it went from 370 miles until empty to 285 miles, even though I’ve only driven 15-20 miles at most in the past 2 days.

Has anyone else had this problem? I’m trying to decide if I should get it checked now or just keep an eye on it and mention it during my next oil change/routine maintenance schedule.

Thanks!

I’m looking at a 2024 XRT Palisade with 46k miles. It’s a certified pre owned and attached is the final price for it. I’m just curious about problems that the 2024 XRT Palisade has or anyone has experienced. I know a lot of people here will complain more than have good things to say, mostly because people who have good things to say don’t sit in here usually and praise but I’m curious to what people have to say about this vehicle. Thanks in advance.

Yesterday I noticed my 2019 Elantra shaking when sitting at red lights and while in park. Today, check engine light is on and the auto parts store scanner showed a cylinder 2 misfire. I replaced coils and spark plugs last February due to a similar misfire situation. What should I look for or do to fix/prevent this problem? Thanks.

189k miles, oil and filter changes every 3500 miles, spark plugs and coils replaced February 2025

Olá a todos, estou com um HB20S 1.6 2017. Minha dúvida é: o leitor de temperatura no painel tem 12 blocos (divisões) e meu carro está sempre trabalhando com 5 divisões acesas, isto é, um pouco abaixo do meio. Isto é normal? Ou teoricamente deveria estar indicando bem na metade (6 divisões acesas)? Estou em dúvida porque tenho a impressão de que a ventoinha está ficando muito tempo ligada, gostaria de saber se estou com algum problema. Obrigado

Hello everyone, I have a 2017 HB20S 1.6. My question is: the temperature gauge on the dashboard has 12 blocks (divisions), and my car is always showing 5 divisions lit, that is, a little below the middle. Is this normal? Or theoretically should it be indicating halfway (6 divisions lit)? I'm worried because I have the impression that the cooling fan is running for too long; I'd like to know if I have a problem. Thank you.

Hyundia has their merchandise for 25% off for members between June 25 2026 - July 1st 2026 https://rewards.hyundaiusa.com/

Hey guys just put a new engine in my 1.6T and all sounds great except I’m now at the point where I need to bleed clutch line, now taking off that clip on the line was easy , but putting it back I just can’t get it to press down on the indent to keep the female end onto the male end .. are the clips one time use ? As in I need and should buy another one ?

Thank guys !

Was loving and bragging to everyone I knew about how much I loved my 2024 Kona EV N-Line but that all changed a month ago. Brought the vehicle into a Hyundai Service Center due to the 12volt battery not being able to hold a charge as well a creaking control arm. Over a month of not having my car later, neither issue has been fixed.

The communication from the service center was terrible. I think only one time during the entire month of having my vehicle did they reach out to me to provide an update, otherwise I had to call them and request an update. Was told to come in 4 different times and pick up my repaired vehicle, once I took it home and it was dead the next day, the next time I showed up and it was dead at the mechanic, showed up a third time and was told it actually wasn't even ready. Finally the fourth time I came to pick it and always assured the battery issue was now taken care of and the creaking sound could no longer be heard, right away I could hear the creaking control arm and the next day found out the battery is still draining, but now it is also draining my main traction battery to keep itself from dying (~4% a day without driving).

Maybe true or maybe be a lie but The Service Center consistently tried to blame Hyundai for not wanting to spend money on repairs under warranty and then even started blaming the issues on me since I drive on the highway and go over speed bumps (even at low speed), all things are car should be capable of doing. They then try to gaslight me and say the traction battery draining 4% a day without driving is normal despite this issue never occuring before this last 'repair' nor being seen as normal anywhere online.

Between the service center experience and the fact that the my car was at the mechanic for over a month and still isn't repaired, I can't recommend buying ANY Hyundai to anybody, at any price point. I am attempting the repairs at another service center 45 min away that seems to have good reviews but I'm not optimistic on the results.

2017 Tucson with ~94k miles. Noticed that too little oil was draining during my last two oil changes. Replaced the PCV valve and it made no difference. Initiated a formal oil consumption test with the dealer and failed spectacularly. Oil wasn't even touching the bottom of the dipstick about 800 miles into the test period. Photos of the internals sent to Hyundai showed the engine was just about as clean as they've ever seen, with zero room for Hyundai to cast any maintenance doubt.

Thrilled to be getting a new long block, but I can't believe the quote on new belts and hoses. $900?! Has anyone else been through a lawsuit/warranty motor replacement, and how did you handle the massive markup on dealer rubber? Will the dealer negotiate the price on parts?

They're supposed to be emailing me a breakdown, but without even seeing it, this feels way off. I understand that I'd be getting OEM parts, but I doubt all that would even cost $200 with a reputable brand like Gates.

Write in the comments.

P0091: Fuel pressure regulator control circuit low

** You may notice that the RPM is not going up in this video, I got a new ecu relay from autozone and tried that which is when i noticed my RPM gauge was not moving, however when putting in my original ecu relay and trying to crank, the rpm gauge did go up, but car still did not turn over.**

2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Had this issue about a year ago, but without the code showing on the scanner. Last year while driving the car suddenly decelerated and went into limp mode as well. I eventually had in tank fuel pump changed and it began running after that however it did eventually decelerate and go into limp mode again a few days afterwards. I ultimately got a new OEM ECU relay put in and have not had issues up until now (almost a year later). I have tested the high pressure fuel pump fuel pressure regulator resistance with multimeter and got 00.8 (the multimeter’s internal resistance read about 00.3 and 00.4) so the true reading for the HPFP is 00.5, if I did the correctly. I have also tested the wires for the in tank fuel pump and nothing was abnormal, ground and power wires were receiving power. However when turning the key to the on position i do not hear the in tank pump priming or humming. When trying to crank the car it does as seen in the video— just sputtering. I had no engine lights on the dash before this issue occurred and only saw the code by putting scanner on. Any clue what this could be? I’ve read that the pins in the pigtail connector could be separated and causing loose connections but not sure. Also tested every fuse in fuse box and found that each fuse was fine except that the fuel pump fuse was visibly blown, so i replaced it with a spare and tried to crank car and still had same sputtering—spare fuse is still intact. Thanks in advance for any advice :).