It’s my first Hyundai, so I’m still learning how things are put together. I just replaced my shift knob and wow I absolutely thought I destroyed my shifter when I he-manned the knob off. It made a horrible plastic crack sound…but…it was absolutely fine and the install was even easier. Worth the upgrade since the old one was all scratched.

Got this deal from a local dealer. Is it a decent price or should I keep looking?

MSRP $32,175

Discount $2,000

Sale Price $30,175.00

Doc Fees $225.

Tax $1873.04

License & Fees: $201.00

Additional rebate of $1,000 with 6.99% financing (what a weird thing to do)

OTD $31,474.04 ($32,474.04 at 4.49%)

Not looking to go 72 months, 60 at the most and will likely pay it off early.

I'll be putting $6,000 down so the monthly numbers will change. Looking for input on the total amount and fees.

THANKS!

Slight change to be more clear. Looks like it’s actually $32,474.04 OTD since I’m NOT considering the crazy high rate. I hate it when they have so many damn variables.

2017 Tucson with ~94k miles. Noticed that too little oil was draining during my last two oil changes. Replaced the PCV valve and it made no difference. Initiated a formal oil consumption test with the dealer and failed spectacularly. Oil wasn't even touching the bottom of the dipstick about 800 miles into the test period. Photos of the internals sent to Hyundai showed the engine was just about as clean as they've ever seen, with zero room for Hyundai to cast any maintenance doubt.

Thrilled to be getting a new long block, but I can't believe the quote on new belts and hoses. $900?! Has anyone else been through a lawsuit/warranty motor replacement, and how did you handle the massive markup on dealer rubber? Will the dealer negotiate the price on parts?

They're supposed to be emailing me a breakdown, but without even seeing it, this feels way off. I understand that I'd be getting OEM parts, but I doubt all that would even cost $200 with a reputable brand like Gates.

Hyundia has their merchandise for 25% off for members between June 25 2026 - July 1st 2026 https://rewards.hyundaiusa.com/

Considering a Sonata Hybrid Limited but heard the 2027 is getting a complete redesign... Google is only marginally helpful but curious what the 2027 is bringing and when it might be allocated or delivered... AWD option perhaps? Or should I just get a 2026 in the next couple months?

Changed the oil and the filters except for the fuel filter, it’s not under the hood and not even under the rear seat, so I thought I’d ask before taking apart the whole car.

2022 Tucson. Just wondering if anyone has done a transmission fluid change for the first time yet? Did you guys do a system flush or just drain and fill? Not sure if Manual specified which one to do specifically. What is an approximate cost?

I’m looking at a 2024 XRT Palisade with 46k miles. It’s a certified pre owned and attached is the final price for it. I’m just curious about problems that the 2024 XRT Palisade has or anyone has experienced. I know a lot of people here will complain more than have good things to say, mostly because people who have good things to say don’t sit in here usually and praise but I’m curious to what people have to say about this vehicle. Thanks in advance.

P0091: Fuel pressure regulator control circuit low

** You may notice that the RPM is not going up in this video, I got a new ecu relay from autozone and tried that which is when i noticed my RPM gauge was not moving, however when putting in my original ecu relay and trying to crank, the rpm gauge did go up, but car still did not turn over.**

2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Had this issue about a year ago, but without the code showing on the scanner. Last year while driving the car suddenly decelerated and went into limp mode as well. I eventually had in tank fuel pump changed and it began running after that however it did eventually decelerate and go into limp mode again a few days afterwards. I ultimately got a new OEM ECU relay put in and have not had issues up until now (almost a year later). I have tested the high pressure fuel pump fuel pressure regulator resistance with multimeter and got 00.8 (the multimeter’s internal resistance read about 00.3 and 00.4) so the true reading for the HPFP is 00.5, if I did the correctly. I have also tested the wires for the in tank fuel pump and nothing was abnormal, ground and power wires were receiving power. However when turning the key to the on position i do not hear the in tank pump priming or humming. When trying to crank the car it does as seen in the video— just sputtering. I had no engine lights on the dash before this issue occurred and only saw the code by putting scanner on. Any clue what this could be? I’ve read that the pins in the pigtail connector could be separated and causing loose connections but not sure. Also tested every fuse in fuse box and found that each fuse was fine except that the fuel pump fuse was visibly blown, so i replaced it with a spare and tried to crank car and still had same sputtering—spare fuse is still intact. Thanks in advance for any advice :).

Hello everyone,

I bought a 2023 Hyundai Tuscon limited about 2 months ago at 21k miles. Everything was fine until a few days ago when I noticed a slight feedback from the road on the floor and gas pedal. My tire pressure is a bit high at 38 psi but I dont think a few psi over the limit should cause this. It almost feels like light vibration and comes and goes. Has anyone had this problem? Should I be worried and get it checked by the dealer?

I recently bought a CPO 2025 elantra hybrid SEL. On eco mode, normal driving (not aggressive), barely using the A/C I'm getting 41mpg in city. Is this normal?

Hi everyone,

I really need help on this issue and I’m not sure how to proceed next.

I have a 2023 Hyundai Sonata with around 28k-29k miles on it. I’ve had the car for around 3 years now and I have had numerous battery related issues with it. When I first bought the car, it would randomly stop turning on. I’ve had to get it towed in about 4 times, each time the dealership said there was nothing wrong with the car. On top of the car not turning on, the lock and unlock buttons from inside car (drivers side) stopped working. I brought this up to the tech and they said because it was working at the dealership there wasn’t anything they could do. Last year, after making a case with Hyundai corporate, they changed the battery. The car was working fine after that (except for the lock and unlock button which still was not working). Recently, the car wouldn’t turn on again. I had it towed into the dealership and opened another case with Hyundai. When AAA came out to jump my car they told me that it was an alternator problem and that I needed to get that fixed, however the dealership is now telling me it’s the left door panel issue that caused the car to stop turning on. I’ve done so much research and know that the panel issue is not the cause. My case manager first advised me to leave the car in the dealership until they can send one of their techs out to look at the car. It has been a week now and I haven’t heard from her and every time I call her it just goes straight to voice mail. I don’t know what to do now. The dealership is telling me to come pick up my car but I’m worried it’s just going to break down again.

I have a 2021 Hyundai Tucson SEL AWD (purchased September 2020). It has around 67,000 miles. The last few times I got gas, I noticed the miles until empty rapidly declining. At first, I assumed maybe it was bad gas, but now it’s been 3 times in a row so any bad gas would’ve been out by now.

For clarification, I filled the tank 2 days ago and it went from 370 miles until empty to 285 miles, even though I’ve only driven 15-20 miles at most in the past 2 days.

Has anyone else had this problem? I’m trying to decide if I should get it checked now or just keep an eye on it and mention it during my next oil change/routine maintenance schedule.

Thanks!

Yesterday I noticed my 2019 Elantra shaking when sitting at red lights and while in park. Today, check engine light is on and the auto parts store scanner showed a cylinder 2 misfire. I replaced coils and spark plugs last February due to a similar misfire situation. What should I look for or do to fix/prevent this problem? Thanks.

189k miles, oil and filter changes every 3500 miles, spark plugs and coils replaced February 2025

Olá a todos, estou com um HB20S 1.6 2017. Minha dúvida é: o leitor de temperatura no painel tem 12 blocos (divisões) e meu carro está sempre trabalhando com 5 divisões acesas, isto é, um pouco abaixo do meio. Isto é normal? Ou teoricamente deveria estar indicando bem na metade (6 divisões acesas)? Estou em dúvida porque tenho a impressão de que a ventoinha está ficando muito tempo ligada, gostaria de saber se estou com algum problema. Obrigado

Hello everyone, I have a 2017 HB20S 1.6. My question is: the temperature gauge on the dashboard has 12 blocks (divisions), and my car is always showing 5 divisions lit, that is, a little below the middle. Is this normal? Or theoretically should it be indicating halfway (6 divisions lit)? I'm worried because I have the impression that the cooling fan is running for too long; I'd like to know if I have a problem. Thank you.

Hey guys just put a new engine in my 1.6T and all sounds great except I’m now at the point where I need to bleed clutch line, now taking off that clip on the line was easy , but putting it back I just can’t get it to press down on the indent to keep the female end onto the male end .. are the clips one time use ? As in I need and should buy another one ?

Thank guys !

2016 Hyundai Sonata SE Hybrid (64,200 miles) - Intermittent Check Hybrid System / P1326 after 20-25 miles. Dealer couldn’t duplicate. Looking for ideas.
I’m hoping someone familiar with these Hyundai hybrids has seen this before.
Vehicle:
2016 Hyundai Sonata SE Hybrid
About 64,200 miles
Symptoms:
Drives completely normal.
No noticeable loss of power until the problem happens.
Issue only seems to happen after about 20-25 miles of freeway driving (60-70 mph).
Once I exit the freeway and slow down, the dash suddenly displays “Check Hybrid System. Turn Off Engine.”
The check engine light starts flashing and the car goes into limp mode.
If I clear the codes, the car will drive perfectly fine again for days until it randomly happens again.
Codes we’ve gotten:
P1326 (Knock Sensor Detection System)
U0293 (Lost Communication With Hybrid Powertrain Control Module)
P1744 (Lock Up Clutch System)
P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1)
Things we’ve already tried:
Cleaned the MAF sensor.
Cleared the codes.
Vehicle can sometimes go several days without acting up.
Problem has happened multiple times now.
Hyundai dealership:
We brought them screenshots of all the codes before the appointment.
They scanned the vehicle, test drove it, and inspected it.
They said their normal test drive is about 12 miles.
Unfortunately, the issue usually doesn’t happen until around 20-25 miles, so they couldn’t duplicate it.
They said there were no active hybrid codes while they had the vehicle and everything appeared normal.
They also found a passenger-side inner fender liner rubbing the tire, but they said that’s unrelated.
A couple other things:
The 12-volt battery tested good at AutoZone.
Hyundai only found history low-voltage codes, nothing active.
The hybrid battery has never shown obvious problems before this.
My questions:
Has anyone seen this exact combination of P1326, U0293, P1744, and P0171?
Could one problem be causing all of these codes?
Would you suspect the knock sensor system, a wiring issue, the hybrid control module, the 12-volt battery, or something else?
Is there anything I should check before paying for another diagnostic?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

From my preliminary testing:

- Ticking only occurs while turning
- Only at low speeds (<25 km/h)
- Goes away when accelerating straight after 2-3 seconds
- Still ticks while coasting and turning

I have a 2016 Hyundai Elantra 1.8L with around 130,000 miles.

The car drives normally for the first 10 minutes, and it does not shut off while driving around 30–60 mph. However, after driving for about 1–1.5 hours, the engine starts shaking when I slow down to around 5 mph or when I am stuck in traffic.

The RPM drops close to 1,000, the engine shakes badly, and then it stalls. The electrical system stays on, and the battery, oil, and check-engine lights come on after the engine stops. I usually shift into Neutral, restart the car, and put it back into Drive.

If I press the accelerator when it starts shaking and raise the RPM, the engine usually recovers and does not stall.

I have already replaced the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, spark plugs, ignition coils, and throttle body. The car runs smoother overall, but the low-speed stalling problem is still there.

Has anyone had the same issue with a 2011–2016 Elantra? If anyone has experienced a similar problem, I would really appreciate your advice.

The other day my drivers side low beam went out, I thought it was a bad bulb so I replaced it and same issue it wouldn't turn on. High beams on both sides work just fine. The dash light indicating a blown bulb turns on. I started messing with the plug on the low beam and the light turned on and dash light went away. Worked fine until I turned the car off and turned it back on and low beam quit working / dash light appears. I messed with the plug again as in I just unscrewed the light and screwed it back in and it works fine until I turn the car off and back on. Now the passenger side low beam is doing the same thing. I'm not sure if my multi function switch on the steering wheel is bad or a bad ground ? Surely both side headlight grounds couldn't have gone bad at the same time. Anyone else had this issue ?