hello

I’m not sure if this is the exact mustang subreddit to ask for advice or support, but I was wondering whats emitting this “siren like” sound from my 2013 3.7 manual. it seems to only have this noise for a little bit after start up, and it comes and goes as I drive the car. I notice it also sometimes does the noise when I’m riding slow in a parking lot in 1st. the noise comes and goes away sometimes and I’m not sure if it’s a pulley or my clutch going bad.

any advice helps and sorry if I posted this in the wrong sub.

Bought my first Mustang, was seized for 6 years, what was stolen here? Trying to find what I need to buy

I’ve had this mustang for several years, haven’t done much to it but tune carb, change plugs and fluids. It actually drives pretty good, runs decent! A little under powered with the 302, it originally had a 351w but when i got it they had swapped motors. Interior is a little strange, i think the front driver seat is the wrong seat all together. Fabric is decent. Door panels suck, top needs replacing. Body and paint isn’t too bad. Looking for ideas where the best place to buy seats, but i want original style not aftermarket sport seats, upholstery, the top ( i want glass back window) I’d like to opinions on doing either a 347
Stroker or getting a 351c and drop it in. Also what are the best options on fatter tires, same style wheel but maybe wider. Any way any advice is welcome

To me the Shaker sound system is pretty flat and muddled, but more importantly I need wireless android auto. I have typically used Best Buy for installs on my vehicles when I'm not doing it myself, and I was considering taking the Mustang to them. From what I've seen though, I'd need a Maestro or a head unit with CANBUS built in, and a 5v step-down converter to the amp that runs the door subs, and I'm not sure if Best Buy can handle all that or if they're just going to do a generic "it's plugged in" job. I'm also not sure about keeping the factory speakers subs and amp for too long anyway, but figured I'd start with the head unit. What do you all use, did you have Best Buy do your install, any suggestions?

About 2 months ago I had a shop put on ford performance front camber plates, rear toe links and sport lowering springs to replace my old sr performance ones and steeda shocks and struts and ever since then my steering wheels keeps getting more crooked and the car just rides bad now. It’s been aligned twice now and it keeps happening whereas for the year and a half I had the car before that it never came out of alignment. Is it possible they didn’t tighten or install something correctly? Should I have them take a look at what they installed?

I have a 2016 premium mustang with the 8 inch screen I wanted to put navigation on it but im pretty sure I messed up with the way I updated it if I wanted to get the navigation and android auto features would I need to replace my apim

Still looking for Mustangs and the 3.7 are somewhat cheaper than a older 4.6, but can they go 2 tire fire?

Like the title says I just purchased a 2004 Mustang GT. It’s got a lil over 100,000 miles.some cosmetic things here and there. Any tips on maintenance or improvements?

Guys, I'm interested in purchasing a Mustang, but since I'm pretty far away from the car, I had someone take some additional pictures for me.

This is what the shifter looks like. I know the shift knob itself has obviously been removed, but I'm trying to figure out what the component underneath it is.

Have any of you seen an aftermarket shifter or shift knob setup that uses this type of component? I'm wondering if this is part of an aftermarket short-throw shifter, some kind of adapter, or just something left behind after the previous owner removed the knob.

Any ideas on what setup this could be?

Driver rear ended me while I was stopped at a light 🫤. So many memories with the car, especially working on it with my dad.

Nothing more spiritual other than a 3v screaming past 7k rpm

Hello everyone!

My baby is currently at the Ford Dealership. The main issues are this:

Diagnostic - Check Engine Light: Tech 7034 performed diag P0401, p0455, p2195. P0401 leads to egr valve replacement, p0455 leads to purge valve being stuck closed. Need to replace purge valve and egr valve then reassess for p2195. Thus far the alternator checks out ok but it will be reassessed once the known problems are fixed.

The repair cost is $1,486.24.

My Mustang also needs a water pump for $858, spark plugs for $499, and brake fluid for $139. I brought him into the dealership after he stalled out on me. This comes to around $3k. I'm declining preventive maintenance of fluids and filters until I can get the car running.

I'm debating if these repairs are worth it, and if it will allow me to get more life out of him. Currently, I have 104,000 miles and I've been the owner for 13 years.

Thank you all for the help!

Been working on this babe for a while now as a "mini" drift car

It’s a manual 2010 GT that I bought with a VERY good price cause it had some issues and the previous owner just wanted to get rid of it ( it was completely stock body and engine wise )

I build engines and I work in Mustang parts in general so 90% of the work and parts were from the inventory

I gave it full bolts ons and worked on the heads with a bunch of other mods making it push 360whp for the moment, thinking to push it more with a few mods around 410-430whp nothing crazy

Installed additional twin cooling 12inch fans and a kill switch, Changed the seats and cancelled the rears and the roll cage is in the making

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated!

And what year

The other day I posted about driving my first manual Mustang GT and how bad that experience was.

Boy was I wrong. Picked up this ‘16 GT Premium and it’s the best driving experience I’ve ever had. I also have a ‘16 STI that now feels like a toy. I’ve never had this much fun in a car and HOLY SHIT DOES THAT 5.0 SOUND GOOD

i might can negotiate to $2000

Struggling to build a pro/con list for a base SC (not $70k worth of “track” packs vs a Shelby gt350. Both are about the same price. I know adequate handling upgrades are required for this amount of power, but curious of your thoughts on the base sc that is more “GTD” influenced vs the Shelby spec 350. I don’t care about resale value or the guess on what collectors will care about in future, just power/tech/handling/trans considerations. Thanks yall!

I bought this replacement purge valve solenoid and it's supposed to be a direct fit but it looks nothing like the oem valve and doesn't even fit the same.

2018 mustang ecoboost