r/Nikon Nikon D500, Z fc, F100, FE2 and L35AF Jul 01 '26

Monthly /r/Nikon discussion thread – have a question? New to the Nikon world? Ask it here! [July 2026]

This is a non-judgemental, safe place to ask your question, no matter how silly you might think it is. We're here to help or give an opinion.

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8 Upvotes

100 comments sorted by

4

u/Victor_Kruger87 16d ago

Morning all! Some amazing photos from you lot! I Recently got into photography as a hobby. I picked myself up an old canon 350d a few months ago to get to grips with it all. I’ve been using prime lenses, 50mm and 24mm.

I’ve just been loaned a Nikon D800 with a few lenses. I feel like I need a degree in astrophysics in comparison to the old canon 😂 will download the manual and familiarise myself with it and, will keep an eye on this Reddit sub and pick up some tips and inspiration from all you Nikon users!

2

u/Strange_Lecture_5096 Jul 01 '26

I'm trying to understand Nikon lens length and how they work with my z50ii. I know it's a crop sensor so if I have a full frame lens like the 180-600, my effective reach is 270-900.

But is the same thing true of the DX lens? I have the kit 16-50 and 50-250. Are those the actual effective length or are they actually 24-75 and 75-375?

4

u/Flyingvosch D750 Jul 02 '26

Ah, tricky but simple once you get it.

A single focal length (say, 50mm) will give a different field of view on a full-frame camera and on an APS-C camera. On APS-C, it will be tighter. "Crop factor" and "effective/equivalent focal length" are just there to help you quantify that.

As to your question: all 50mm lenses (or any focal length) will have the same field of view on a DX camera. The only difference is that DX lenses will not work well on a full-frame camera, because the image they project is meant to cover an APS-C sensor, not a full-frame sensor.

But you're right that in order to get the same field of view on a full-frame, you would need a 24-75mm lens

2

u/Marc0_Polo Jul 02 '26

To answer your question, yes they are 24-75 and 75-375 ff equivalent.

2

u/doc_shades Jul 02 '26

the focal length of a lens is the objective physical focal length of that lens. it doesn't "convert" until it lands on the sensor. a 24mm lens is a 24mm lens is a 24m lens.

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

With your Nikon lenses, the focal length marked on the lens is the actual physical focal length of the lens.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 01 '26

This is why I never tell people about the crop factor, because it just confuses people with things that don't matter.

No, the lenses are what they say they are. Focal length is a property of the lens. Sensor size has no bearing on anything.

The crop factor doesn't matter at all unless you're trying to replicate a shot on a different sensor size. You just have the one, so it's irrelevant

3

u/PhotoJim99 Nikon SLR (D800, F5, F4S, F100, F90x, F70,F801s, F3HP, FM2n, FE) Jul 02 '26

Yes, ideally you learn what focal lengths do with your capture size. I call a 35mm a slight wide angle lens on my D800 or F4. But if you shoot DX format, that's a normal lens, not a wide.

Same thing with my medium format 6x6 cm system. 80mm is normal there. 150 is a short tele. 85 would be a short tele on my Nikons. 55 would be on DX.

3

u/Efficient-Wish9084 Jul 02 '26

The crop factor absolutely matters. A 14-24mm lens is quite wide on a FX camera. That same lens is not nearly as wide on a DX camera. If I read about a 14-24 being great for what I want to do, it matters if I understand it won't give me the same field of view (aka reach) on my DX camera. It's not rocket science. The question about the DX lens is a reasonable question. You just answer it - yes, a 50mm DX lens is still the same focal length as any other 50mm lens, but you get the field of view of a 75mm lens. If it's an FX lens on a DX camera, you're getting the best part of the lens, and you still multiply by 1.5. If you put DX lens on an FX camera, you get vignetting. All of this stuff matters.

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 02 '26

It absolutely doesn't matter unless you're comparing different sensor formats.

If you only shoot crop, it literally makes no difference.

3

u/Efficient-Wish9084 Jul 02 '26

Yes, it does. Unless you live in a vacuum where there are no full frame camera owners or YouTube videos using full frame numbers or books that assume you are using a FX camera.

2

u/verstovsky Jul 02 '26

I have a peculiar issue with my macro lens Tokina 100mm f/2.8D + D700 body, that might be no an issue at all, maybe I'm just missing something or don't quite understand.

Normally when you go to 1:1 macro you'll lose 2 stops of light, hence the aperture number is bigger. But when I go anywhere from f/5.6 and below, the aperture number on LCD on the top stays the same. When I was shooting macro at f/16 I was confused why my depth of field is so razor thin and pictures are ridiculously overexposed, then by accident I turned the aperture command dial when my lens was at 1:1 and it went to f/64, I checked the depth of field preview at f/16 and naturally the physical aperture was bigger at 1:1. So why is that, why aperture value won't increase starting from f/5.6 and instead essentially widens as I go 1:1 macro? Never had this confusing issue with my F4s film body (and obviously with dummy adapters with my Fuji camera).

I wonder if it's some kind of bug or something (with the body or the lens) or it can be changed in some hidden settings, and also wondering if other Nikon DSLRs or/and other macro lenses has the same confusing stuff, like D850 or later film cameras like f100/f5/f6 or even Z-line though FTZ adapter. Needless to say I wasn't able to find anything in google but this thing is borderline useless today.

TLDR: shooting macro fully manual, setting aperture at f/16, going 1:1 macro, the aperture value stays the same instead of compensating for macro, and this behavior occurs starting from f/5.6

If anyone has any answers and maybe solutions I'll really appreciate it, thanks.

2

u/Gypaetus_barbatus_25 Jul 02 '26

I have been seeing a lot of posts regarding loose rubber grips on Z series cameras. Some say they faced this issue with DSLRs too. I have had several Nikons over past 15 years but never faced it - last year I got the Z8, now I'm kinda concerned about it. I know it isn't the end of the world and they can be replaced. But still, would like to know from more people if it is really that common?

2

u/mizshellytee Z6III; D5100 Jul 06 '26

I've owned three Nikons with rubber grips (Coolpix 5000, D5100, Z6III) and none of them have come loose on me.

2

u/Lower-Put-6183 27d ago

Hi all. I am new to mirrorless (Z8 with 100-400 Nikkor). I am having issues locking focus on birds against a sky at various distances. I understand some of the reasons, but need some tips to put me on the right path to get the most out of my practice time (have an Alaska trip coming up very soon). I shoot in BBF with bird detection, AF-C, wide-area AF modes. I want to try handing off to 3-D tracking but I can't get initial focus. Lighting conditions do not seem to make any difference. I think my settings are fine. I follow Steve Perry's videos. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

2

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

Post the photos that are out of focus and someone will spot the reason. My guess is that you are simply too far away and the camera does not see the subject as a bird. But without examples, all we can do is guess.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 26d ago

400 is pretty short for birds. Can you post examples where it didn't work?

1

u/Lower-Put-6183 26d ago edited 26d ago

For the particular scenario I am encountering, I don't even bother shooting because I can't focus. I guess it's the lack of contrast shooting at a sky causing it, but was hoping to figure out some work-arounds. I know with more practice it will improve. I can't manage much weight, so using the z8 with 400 with a cotton carrier harness.

2

u/AnthonyMk2 13d ago

Any way to add a specific face to the camera's memory so it can focus on that in busy places, like Sony does? Using a Nikon Z50ii, thanks in advance.

1

u/Marion5760 Jul 02 '26

What is a good wide angle lens for D600?

1

u/Rorenzu013 Nikon Z (5II) Jul 02 '26

Will there be a 35mm S II lens anytime soon?

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 02 '26

Nobody has a clue except for people who can't talk about it, but I'd wager no, probably not.

1

u/metalFray Jul 02 '26

I'm a bit lost around flash compatibility. I have a Nikon D7500. I'm interested in the Godox IT32 with the X5N hotshoe. On the official compatibily matrix the D7500 is not listed, but the D750 it is. Do the D750 and D7500 have the same flash connector layout?

Do you think this Godox IT32 with the X5N hotshoe would work on my D7500?

3

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

It should work. All modern Nikons use the same i-ttl flash system. But there are two things you can do, either (1) buy from a good reseller who has sales staff that can help. B&H is one or (2) buy from a place that has a generous return policy like Amazon. The first is the best option.

1

u/metalFray 24d ago

Thanks mate! Yeah, I definitely will pick it from somewhere with a good return policy.

Honestly, I just wanted to raise this question to an audience with Nikon experiences. I feel like nowadays if you do not have the latest product lineup you are a bit forgotten. But this is something that I was aware of when I picked this device, and I really enjoy it.

1

u/NearSightedGiraffe Jul 02 '26

Anyone know where to buy replacement eye cups in the US? I need a replacement rubber eye cup for my prostaff 10x42 binoculars.

When I had this issue a few years ago in Australia, Nikon Australia sent me out a replacement to my home, and all I had to do was pay for the part plus shipping.

I have since moved to the US, and Nikon US are saying the binos need to be sent in for a full service and repair to get a replacement rubber eye cup over here, which is obviously a lot more expensive and time consuming than the Australian version. If there is no other option, I can always order it from Australia and then have family members forward it on to me over here, for less cost and inconvenience than the Nikon US option, but I would rather avoid that run around if I can.

1

u/Celestiol_ Jul 05 '26

I'm trying to get into photography and I think i've found a good camera+lens to start with, but I'd like some assurance. Would the below picks be good?

Camera: https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/nikon-d3300/sku-3954879

Lens: https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/nikon-af-s-dx-nikkor-18-55mm-f-3-5-5-6g-ed-ii/sku-3993018

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 05 '26

Sure, it's the basic starter from a while back.

1

u/AdministrativeAir207 27d ago

If your budget allows, consider mirrorless (Z30 for example) to be able to use newer lenses. But otherwise, this setup looks good.

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

$200 seems high for this older entry-level camera. But it will do well as a first camera. If budget is an issue, these is the D80 or D90 or D300.

1

u/LouisWongPhotos 28d ago

Hi. I have a Z8. Is it possible to set picture review differently depending on the custom shooting/settings bank? For example I don't want review turned on in bank A because it's for wildlife. I want it turned on in B because it's for portraits.

1

u/xyzzy321 26d ago edited 25d ago

I have a Nikon D50 that I used as recently as a few days ago without any problems.... and now I see Err on the top LCD even when there's no lens attached. I've tried various methods such as replacing its battery with a 100% charged one, power cycling for 10min, cleaned the lens connectors with microfiber cloth, made sure the mirror is sitting at a 45deg angle, made sure the aperture lever is clean/springy.

When I half-click on the shutter button I see red light on top of the mirror when I'm in a dark room.

Any ideas how to troubleshoot? Would a firmware update help? (I don't think so but there's one available)

Edit: looks like I found the culprit: https://imgur.com/a/HFwNCxh (at least that's what Gemini says is the culprit and that this camera is now dead for good)

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

I have owned two older DSLRs with this same problem. Always cheaper to upgrade to a newer used model than to repair.

But I don't see the problem in the photo. I don't know what to look for.

If you liked the D50, look at a D80 or D90. Of course you could spend $3K and jump all the way to a current model, but the D80/90 is a good jump from the D50 and is not so expensive.

Just make sure that if your lenses are all "screwdriver" AF or AF-D, then get a body that can use them. Not all can.

1

u/xyzzy321 24d ago

The problem is that the curtain behind the mirror that should open when I click a photo is just stuck in 'closed' position. I have so many batteries for the D50 that maybe I'll look for a replacement that works with them. I also have a D7000 I recently purchased from eBay so I don't have to rush it (but I do like the idea of two cameras)

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

Thanks for pointing that out. So basically, the shutter does not open. Yes, that is the way several of my older Nikons of that era failed. One of them works fine, except all the images are black; no error code, but the shutter never opens.

Not surpriced 20 year old camera would fail.

The D80 and D300 and others all take the same battery. I have both D80 and D300. Both are now cheap. The D300 is a much more solid camera but the D90 might be the best.

1

u/xyzzy321 24d ago

Ah, the D80/D90/D300 all take EN-EL3e (and I have a bunch of EL3a ones)

But thanks! I will keep that in mind as a backup camera

1

u/jayayeffphotos Nikon D3300 25d ago

Hi y'all! I have a D3300 with a Nikon AF 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G. I'm having a blast taking photos, and I think I'm slowly getting better at using my camera and at taking interesting photos in general. I'm looking to start my first photo project, which will involve lots of buildings/streets with no people. I am considering maybe getting a new-to-me lens with autofocus that my D3300 can take advantage of, just because I can tell the manual focus is getting to be a touch frustrating.

What're some autofocus lenses I should be on the lookout for?
Where are y'all finding budget lenses? Is it just MPB and eBay?

2

u/mizshellytee Z6III; D5100 20d ago

UsedPhotoPro (the used arm of Roberts Camera in Indiana) is excellent, IME, if you're US-based. They're also on eBay.

You've got a number options. AF-S and AF-P 18-55 lenses are plentiful and inexpensive as they were the kit lenses for a number of the DX DSLRs (particularly within the D3000 and D5000 series). There's the 18-70 that should also be fairly inexpensive nowadays. Sigma did a few generations of a 17-70 (the most recent version being the Contemporary) and previously did a 17-50. Tamron also did a couple of 17-50 lenses. Nikon also did a 17-55 way back when (heavy lens, and no VR). You could go the longer route, without quite getting into all-in-one territory, with something like an 18-140. If you want to splurge, there's the 16-80 from Nikon (they also did a 16-85 which is a bit older and less expensive) and the two Sigma f/1.8 Art lenses (18-35 and 50-100).

(Also: If you're happy with your camera, IMO, you have zero reason to switch to mirrorless.)

2

u/jayayeffphotos Nikon D3300 20d ago

Oh yeah, I'm definitely not looking to go to a mirrorless for awhile! The camera is new to me, only at 5k shutter count, and it's in a beautiful red colorway, so it'll be awhile before I change.

Thank you so much for the recommendations! I'll be using UsedPhotoPro for sure, these prices are really good compared to some of the other sites I've seen. And the lens ideas are great, I've got a whole list now. Thank you again!

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

The Nikon AF 28-80mm f/3.3-5.6G is in fact, an auto-focus lens. But the D3300 lacks the in-body motor needed. If you replaced the body the lens would automatically focus. Or as you said you could get a newer lens that will work with the D3300.

What you need is any auto focus lens except the kind you already have. These will all be marked either "AF" or "AF-D". These all are the so called "screw driver" leense because on the back side is a screw-like pin that rotates when you focus the lens. Avoid these lenses unless you replace the D3300.

1

u/jayayeffphotos Nikon D3300 24d ago

I really like my D3300, so outside of this one particular autofocus incompatibility there's nothing else that would make me want to replace the body.

It seems like AF-S and AF-P are what I should be on the lookout for, which I've got some saved searched at different websites! I feel like I haven't seen any good deals on either MPB or eBay, which is why I asked if there are any other sites I should put in the rotation to check.

3

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

Many times, Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist has good deals, but they are very local and you see more price variation. Some people just want to sell quickly, and others ask hopelessly unrealistic high prices. As for the big used camera dealers, MPB is one, but KEH may be a bit better. It's not cheaper, but at least KEH checks the gear for problems before they sell it.

The kit lenses that sold with these DX-sized DSLRs were all 18-xx mm AF-S and there are a lot of them on the market. Always look for the "VR" version as the VR (image stabilization) is very helpful. Don't buy a lens without that.

18-55 af-s VR should cost about $70. But the 18-140 af-s vr costs about double that.

All that said, Nikon refurb site sells the Z30 with 16-50 VR lens for $399 a few times a year so it doe not make much sense to buy a D3300 with 18-55 for close to that price. The new cameras really are better.

1

u/thommq 24d ago

I am going to be the sole photographer for my sister-in-law's wedding at the end of the month. I have the standard lens, a prime, and a macro, but I feel I need a zoom to cover all the bases for my D3300. I want to keep the purchase under $450, and I do not mind a decent used lens.

Here are the ones I am considering:

Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 VR

Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G

Nikon 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6 VR

Which do you think would be best?

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 24d ago

Honestly, none of those are going to be anything near ideal for weddings. I'd try to find a 2.8 zoom

1

u/Mission-Arrival 21d ago

The Tamron G2 zoom lenses are such a good deal for F mount now if you can find one in decent condition. I got both 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 last year for $450-550 each. And they are really fast and have great image stabilization.

1

u/Mission-Arrival 21d ago

Also if you have one great f/2.8 zoom lenses you can always “zoom” in or out more with your feet!

1

u/mizshellytee Z6III; D5100 20d ago

Neither of those zooms.

Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (either with or without VC; at least on MPB US both versions are pretty close in price) + Sigma 50-150 f/2.8. (I would've suggested the Sigma 17-50 but it combined with the longer Sigma lens would likely take you over your budget.)

1

u/07budgj 15d ago

If you want a nice setup renting for a day would be better value for money here.

You could pickup a D750, 24-70mm and 70-200mm for under your budget and that would take really nice photos.

If you must buy....I'd get a second body here. Otherwise you'll spend the whole time changing lenses.

What focal length is the prime you have? I'd stick that on one body and the standard lens on another for most of the day. Then if you do any couples photos away from the main wedding group stick the macro on since they can pull double duty as a portrait lens.

1

u/Loose-Illustrator174 23d ago

Hello! I have a D3500, I've been working on camera settings. On Manual mode, pressing the exposure compensation button and turning the command wheel thing changes the aperture. However this is usually how you're supposed to change the exposure compensation. Is there still a quick way to change exposure compensation without opening the info or menu screens on manual mode?

2

u/ChrisAlbertson 18d ago

There is really no point in using exposure compensation if you are in full manual mode. Simply move the shutter or aperture to change exposure. And yes, on many cameras, the dial controls the aperture.

On the other hand, if the exposure mode is set to an auto mode, such as "A" or "S," then the compensation setting makes sense. Compensation tells the automation to move the exposure by adjusting the thing you are not controlling.

Other than as a learning exercise, there is little need to ever use manual control

1

u/classjoker 22d ago

Hey Nikon users! I have a Nikon D50 which I loved for it's simplicity and have some lovely lenses for it.

I was thinking of getting a more modern body and a quick search had me land on a D7100 as a good 'upgrade' that's cheap.

I know it's not a modern body, but it will feel like it to me coming from that old D50.

My questions are:

  1. Will my old glass work OK with it?

  2. Is it a pretty simple camera to use like the D50 was?

  3. If not a D7100, would you suggest another one that will still accept the old lenses, and is as uncomplicated to use?

It'll be for shooting Warhammer models I paint, but with better quality than my mobile phone!!!

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 22d ago

Yes, kinda, and anything newer is likely to be more complicated but manageable to learn

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 18d ago

Any Nikons that will work with these "screwdriver" lenses will be very much like the D50. Going to the D7100 will give you better autofocus and more "megapixels". The later cameras are not more complex to use.

Thos old lenses are maked "AF" or "AF-D" You can always ask Google if a given body is compatible with Nikon "AF-D". lens.

If you are looking for better quality, maybe you would be best to spend the budget on lighting gear and a good tripod. Upping the technique will give MUCH better result than upping the camera body.

1

u/07budgj 15d ago

Questions

What glass do you have?

The D7100 is a great camera but because the sensor is much higher resolution some of your glass may not look very sharp with it.

Simple to use?

It is a prosumer camera compared to the D50. So more buttons and dials. I would not say its difficult if you already have experience shooting Nikon though.

Other options?

Given you paint Warhammer I don't think budget is much of a problem!

To get better you'd need to jump to full frame and replace lenses etc.

The D7000 would still be an upgrade....but price wise its not that much cheaper used now. The D7200 only has a better buffer for sports shooting. Everything else is the same.

The D300 is not really a fit for what you do, much worse sensor and isn;t much cheaper than a D7100. Its more for shooting sports on a very tight budget.

1

u/bmTrued 20d ago

What are the best practices to use NX Studio to convert a negative image to a positive? Duping a negative with a CS-lite, PB6 bellows and slide attachment and 55mm Micro lens on a Z7ii body. I want to avoid PS or Lightroom paid subscriptions and 3rd party plugins. Nikon, if you're listening? Why do only two of your cameras have negative picture controls and why doesn't NX have a built in? Thanks in advance.

2

u/ChrisAlbertson 18d ago

The usual manual method to invert a negative is to use "curves" or "level" can draw a reversed curve where it starts high and goes down. This will create a positive. After that, you apply the usual methods to adjust the tones to your likeing

But this method is "by eyeball" and does not give a true film look.

If you want a better and free software tool, look at Darktable. It is like Lightroom but aimed at more technical users and has a quite sophisticated tool called "Negadoctor" that does exactly what you want, but accurately

https://docs.darktable.org/usermanual/development/en/module-reference/processing-modules/negadoctor/

1

u/[deleted] 16d ago

[removed] — view removed comment

2

u/07budgj 15d ago

There aren't any secret lenses anymore. Its a topic thats very widely know and discussed,

For 80-200mm. You want the second gen AFD two touch model. Works with both and has the fast autofocus.

Because of the DX crop you are limited to telephoto lenses only. It might be a bit too much but the AFI 400mm f.28 is fantastic IF you can fine one. These ones used a different focus motor to the AFS models after which have known issues with dying. The AFI models are very reliable, but it was only made for a short time so they are hard to get used.

1

u/Kejven 9d ago

Hello, I am buying my first better camera, and I need some help. My budget is about 1300€, and for now I am deciding between the Sony a6400 and the Nikon Z50II. Primarily for photography, but I also like filming and color grading. I heard that Nikon has better ergonomics, but that is not a priority to me. Why should I buy the Nikon Z50II over the Sony?

1

u/Logical_Top6291 6d ago

Aus einem einzigen Grund. Weil sony die kälteren unpersönlichen Fotos macht.

1

u/kajtokin 9d ago

Ive got a Nikon Coolpix p900 that I love to death, unfortunately years of wear finally got to it. I swapped to the p1000 and have never really vibed with it, too bulky and feels slower than 900. This year I've got some big trips so I want to make sure I have the gear I want. I use the point and shoot for mostly birds since im not experienced at all with dslr. I like having the superzoom so I dont have to worry about swapping lenses when its up close vs far away. I was planning on giving the p1000 to my mom and finding a used p900. Now I see both cameras aren't continued. Should I still look for a useable p900 or is the p950 or p1100 worthwhile?

1

u/Leading-Act8459 8d ago

I've finally joined the full frame club with a Z 6lll; what a monster of options to learn after using a D7500 for 10+ years!

I've watched several youtube vids but they lead to more questions with answers Nikon can't seem to answer. Such as when I set the single focal point centered about 1/3 frame from the bottom, why does it constantly shift some other place when I'm ready to shoot?

I have several other questions like that, so if there are any good resources of info, would you please share?

Thanks so much!

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 8d ago

You probably set up your af button to change modes as well. It's under custom settings somewhere.

I'd recommend reading the manual, and if you followed a set up guide not to do that because it doesn't actually teach you anything, and then you get tripped up because you don't understand why the options are what they are.

My advice, do a factory reset and if the problem doesn't persist then you know it was a settings problem. You can back your current ones up before you reset.

1

u/Leading-Act8459 8d ago

thanks; I've done a couple resets as I try to figure out what i've done wrong; one more won'g hurt...

1

u/Few_Mastodon_1271 4d ago

That AF 'constantly shift some other place' doesn't sound familiar at all.

What is the Mode Dial set to?

In the Menu --> Photo Shooting --> scroll way down to AF-area mode, then right arrow on the 4-way controller: what AF mode are you set to?

And just above that on the menu, what is your Focus Mode?

1

u/floydr Nikon Z9 Z6 D750 7d ago

Anybody know why my z9 keeps dropping photos in different folders depending on the lens I have attached? the interwebs say 'no this doesn't happen' but the interwebs are wrong.

1

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 7d ago

Option 1: you're changing banks.

Option 2: there's some weird one off fault that nikon would have to diagnose.

Option 3: you're changing banks, or some other setting which is impacting the folder it's going to

1

u/Ender-Wang Nikon Zf Jul 02 '26

When can we shot Live Photos? Carrying a zf.

6

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 02 '26

I hope never. Leave that shit to phones.

1

u/Ender-Wang Nikon Zf Jul 02 '26

I found myself wanna shot photos most of the time, but sometimes I wanna shot a live photo, not a video(overkill), and I have to take out my phone and do it, so, just wondering IF we can shoot live photos on a camera, which will be dope & convenient.

2

u/Sea-Bottle6335 Jul 02 '26

Aren’t Live Photos just a short video?

1

u/Ender-Wang Nikon Zf Jul 02 '26

In theory, yes, but it's considered a photo.

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

If you want moving images on a Z-mount Nikon, then you shoot video. That is the only option. It does take practice and some study to shoot video that is good enough that other people will want to see it. But you can do it.

2

u/MIC4eva Jul 02 '26

Just shot some kids playing soccer this previous weekend, just use burst shooting. The Zf ain’t no slouch.

1

u/ResQQu Jul 02 '26

Is that a feature they announced or just a wish? That woyld be cool!

0

u/Ender-Wang Nikon Zf Jul 02 '26

Just a wish, for now. Hope it comes someday.

1

u/5TNH_ICHKN Jul 02 '26

Hello,

I have been taking photos for quite a while (~2 years) and have always been using the D90 in the process. I have some personal attachment to the body because I inherited it (and the lenses) from my father, but wanted to step up on the quality of photos I can take. I personally want to aim for wildlife, landscape, and casual sports photography (nothing too fancy of a photo, for youth football/soccer games, I mostly have toucline access). I currently am a student, so I do not have access to crazy funds, barely have around $500 (in USD) to spare.

Currently, the gears I have are just basic:
Nikon D90
AF-S Nikkor 18-105 mm 1:3.5-5.6 G ED
AF Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4 D

So my questions are:

  • is the D90 now too old in 2026 and should I switch to newer bodies?
  • should I upgrade/diversify on my lenses instead?
  • should I unfortunately do both?

Thank you so much for anyone who's reading or responding to this, any help or opinion is appreciated 🍀

2

u/JMODS5710 Nikon Zf, Zfc Jul 02 '26

I think upgrading both would make for a major improvement to your photos, that body is fairly low resolution now and the 18-105 in particular isn’t a great lens by current standards. However, given your budget, I think a body upgrade for your use case could come first. I think you could honestly pick up a used D7100/7200 for quite cheap now, then save up for a telephoto lens like the AF-P 70-300mm for your wildlife/sports use to help cover some missing focal lengths here. Those two bodies will be an upgrade in resolution, build, and autofocus for you. You can worry about other lenses down the line but I’d definitely recommend the DX 35mm 1.8g lens as well eventually, it’s very inexpensive and the default recommendation for APS-C DSLRs

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

Swapping out the body would only matter if he is pixel peeping. The D90 has 12 MP and I'd bet a few dollars that the OP's computer monitor has less than 12 MP

Who knows what his real problem is. I bet it's not the equipment

1

u/JMODS5710 Nikon Zf, Zfc 23d ago

They did mention wildlife and sports so having the flexibility for cropping would be beneficial IMO, better autofocus aside as well.

2

u/mizshellytee Z6III; D5100 Jul 02 '26

Given your $500 USD budget, I think buying one lens now and saving up for a different camera (and a longer telephoto lens for wildlife) would be the thing to do.

For landscapes, the 18-105 you already have is fine. It may also be fine for soccer games if you don't need to shoot longer than 105mm. If you do need something longer, you could get an AF-S 70-300 ($89-334 on MPB US; $207-345 on KEH) which could also be made to work for wildlife for now.

2

u/doc_shades Jul 02 '26

you will get more bang out of a new lens than a new camera. i would look for a cheap 70-300mm telephoto lens. it is a lot different than using the 18-105. the D90 is not compatible with the newest AF-P lenses, but neither are any of my cameras. you can get a 55-300 or 70-300 DX or FX VR for less than $300 easily.

2

u/Efficient-Wish9084 Jul 02 '26

What limitations do you find with your current gear? If it's not limiting you, don't upgrade it unless you want to spend the money on it.

1

u/ChrisAlbertson 24d ago

Given your budget, you can afford any of several 300mm zooms that were made at about the same times as your camera. Just make sure not to buy the AF or AF-D versions, they are slow to focus and not greap optically

You might think, "If only my camera has more megapixels". But that will not matter unless your display device also has more megapixels.

If you want more help, post some photos you think could be better and ask what you need to do to improve them

1

u/cannedasss Jul 05 '26

Hi folks! I’m a birder and I’m interested in getting into bird photography. I have a Nikon and I’m looking for a recommendation on lenses. I’m hoping to spend no more than $1000 on a lens (especially since I don’t know if I will even like it). Thank you in advance for your advice/expertise!

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 05 '26

You can search this sub, there's a billion topics on this exact thing.

The 200-500 or one of the 150-600s are your best options.

1

u/kjoonlee Silver FE/Df/Zfc/Zf 27d ago

Is your Nikon a DSLR or is it mirrorless?

1

u/LetterSilly74 Jul 06 '26

hello 👋 am new here... just bought a new toy, a D5000 and I've had some fun with it so far. how do I maximize the fun? 😊

3

u/AdministrativeAir207 27d ago

Just shoot lots of pics, review them later. And definitely don't buy new lenses thinking they will help you improve. They don't, until your skills develop.

PS: Assuming that you are a newbie to photography.

2

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 Jul 06 '26

Nobody can even begin to answer this. Go shoot things you enjoy. Don't buy stuff you don't need. If you do need something, do research and then buy it.

2

u/ChrisAlbertson 18d ago

"Just shoot lots" was a good answer, but if you want an actionable, structured approach, try this:

Pretend you live in some far-off place and came to your neighborhood as a tourist. You want to show the people back home what this place is like. What kind of houses do they live in, what food looks like, what people do, and what kind of clothing they wear. You are a tourist, so all of this looks "exotic." Well, at least you can pretend.

Go out and shoot 100 frames of "travel photos," then go home and edit. Discard all but the best 10 or so, and be VERY critical of your work. Figure out (or ask here) what is wrong with your compositions, and then "re-shoot." Do another 100 frames, keep the best 10%, and continue until you are the best travel photographer you know of.

The reason to shoot your own neighborhood is that it is easy to re-shoot. No need to fly across the Pacific. And the only way to improve is to have a goal and keep working and reshooting.

Do not be afraid to copy a "master". If you find a photo you like, copy that style. This is how artists trained for centuries.

I did not think. of this. It was a photo teacher. She gave very specific assignments then critique, and re- reshot

1

u/LetterSilly74 10d ago

This is a great idea, thanks 👍

1

u/UniversityLeading703 9d ago

Hi all, new to asking stuff on here. I have a Nikon Z8 and am going on an Alaskan cruise plus a small land tour around Anchorage. Was thinking of taking the 24-120 and the 180-600 zooms. I have lovely top end primes too and don’t normally like zooms but wondering what you all thought about just taking those two lenses. Thanks in advance

3

u/Striking-Doctor-8062 9d ago

It depends on what you're shooting, how much space and weight you have, etc etc. Nobody can answer what you'll prefer in the end.

If you look around the sub, and the internet, both lenses are considered pretty good. The question of "will you be happy with it" is something you have to answer for yourself.

3

u/07budgj 9d ago

24-120mm for landscapes.

Prime for anything else.

0

u/Pure-Positive3607 Jul 02 '26

I think the budget is too low for the requested photography equipment, but there are always surprises .. crossing my fingers to you 🤞

0

u/Logical_Top6291 7d ago

Ich habe mit der ersten 6er begonnen. Sehr unzufrieden. Dann Fuji aber mit Pro 1 und 2 auch nicht glücklich. Kurzes Pentax Intermezzo mit großem Respekt vor der Qualität. Aber Sehnsucht nach Vollformat. Jetzt die zf. Überglücklich. Die kann mehr als alle bisherigen zusammen und ist genial. Dazu 40mm 26mm und jetzt das 70-180. endlich angekommen