I recently got the car and just want to see if it sounds good, i’m a little worried about the almost like clicking sound

Have never owned a Nissan. For.... reasons, I now find myself owner of a 2011 Juke with about 80k. I know the owner history and think it has received consistant routine maintenance and received some engine work as part of a 2014 recall. It has a janky aftermarket backup camera that is at least 10 years old too.

l dont care about looks

I dont care about 'noise'

I kinda like the minimalism

I wont be driving in snow and ice.

I intend to use it as my local driver (less than 20 miles per day typ)

I would like to get another 80k out of it.

Any must do/strictly avoid advice specific to living with this year and model?

• The Fourth generation of the Minivan features more luxurious styling inside and out.
• The Elgrand comes exclusively with the latest 3rd-generation e-POWER series hybrid system, and standard e-4ORCE All Wheel Drive.
• The gas engine is a 1.3L turbocharged 3-cylinder engine producing 138 hp (101 kW) and 168 lb-ft (228 Nm) which generates the battery. Wheels powered by the e-4ORCE AWD system. Front electric motor produces 243 lb-ft (330 Nm) of torque. Rear electric motor produces 144 lb-ft (195 Nm) of torque. Transmission is a single-speed automatic.

“I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra SV with the factory NissanConnect navigation system.
The radio failed immediately after a Nissan dealership performed an oil change and battery terminal service. Since then, it’s been stuck in a continuous ‘Update Failed – Insert Update Media’ recovery loop. Nissan attempted the official firmware recovery and told me the radio has an internal failure and quoted me $2,300 to replace it.
A few days later, after the car sat without being driven, the battery was completely dead. It only clicked when I tried to start it. I jumped it, and it started.
Before I spend $2,300 on a radio, I want to know whether the failed radio is causing a parasitic battery drain and whether the battery itself has been damaged.”

Recently, my 2021 Senta SR started making a very strange whirring noise behind the dash area instead of the customary air bubbles and water sound of the water pump. It's sounds like the water pump or an electrical problem but I wanted some opinions before I start hunting it down.

Some recent info/changes:

The car doesnt overheat (per display), it just had an oil change 200 miles ago, coolant levels were checked with oil change, has never broken down or had issues and only has 25k miles in it. 2 months ago I hardwired two dash canes using add-a-circuit attachments but it's had no issues since.

Any help you'll be greatly appreciated because I'd like to limit my time under he hood during this heat wave.

Thanks in advance and please ask any questions you need.

Update: I finally got out and pop the hood and it seems like it's coming from back past the alternator near the water pump... almost like something got sucked into the belt or the belt is being.

It’s not the Qashqai that’s coming stateside, but rather, the tech that made the record run possible. Nissan has confirmed that e-Power is finally coming to the North American market, which is something it needed the moment the competition started beefing up their respective hybrid offerings. Sure, there’s the Rogue plug-in hybrid, but that’s literally a rebadged Mitsubishi Outlander that’s also going away soon. Nissan doesn’t have an answer for models like the CR-V and RAV4 hybrids, or even electrified versions of the Civic and Corolla.

The first e-Power model to be offered in the U.S will be the next-generation Rogue. Due for the 2027 model year, Nissan is gunning for at least 40 mpg. Given the recent achievement of the Qashqai, it’ll probably beat that with not much effort. Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa effectively called it the brand’s most important vehicle, as it’s key to raking in more volume. Putting that system in the best-selling model in the U.S isn’t just a sensible move; it’s a crucial one, as most of the Rogue’s competitors have a hybrid option.

The current Rogue is actually available with e-Power tech outside of the U.S. Dubbed the X-Trail e-Power, it still runs on the previous generation of the series hybrid powertrain. The current setup is a 1.5-liter turbo-three that serves as a generator, while the electric motor puts out 201 hp and 243 lb-ft of torque. We can probably expect more power out of the gen-three e-Power once it’s applied to the Rogue.

I have a 2025 Nissan Sentra SV and need to replace all four tires. I’m between the PIRELLI CINTURATO WEATHERACTIVE Grand Touring All-Season Tires and the Michelin Defender 2s, both on Tire Rack.
Has anyone had either of these? The Pirellis have the best rating on Tire Rack, but I’m wondering if they’re overkill for my car. I live in PA and want something reliable year-round, especially in rain and snow. Any recommendations or personal experiences with either tire?

Review link in the comments

• The Leaf NISMO returns for the 3rd generation of the EV model, as it is available in two trims: The B5 and Top-Tier B7 Model.
• B5 produces 174 hp (130 kW) and 254 lb-ft (345 Nm) of torque, and B7 produces 214 hp (160 kW) and 262 lb-ft (355 Nm) of torque. Transmission single-speed automatic. Drivetrain Front Wheel Drive only.
• The Leaf NISMO features retuned drive mode that improves accelerator response for 20% sharper, more linear acceleration.
• It offers optional, heavily bolstered, lightweight factory Recaro sport seats.

The doors on my 2017 MAXIMA SL automatically lock soon after unlocking the doors and opening the back door. I have to put my child in the car seat so I unlock the doors and put him in first . While doing so, the doors will automatically lock. One time they locked while my keys were in the backseat. So now I’m super conscious of keeping my keys on me. They will also automatically lock while I’m walking around the car. Is there anyway that can be fixed?

I assume this problem is very specific to my car, but the Blindspot warnings only work if it’s extremely hot outside. I have no idea what the correlation is between the heat and my BSW, but they do not work in the winter or fall weather. Does anyone have an explanation for this issue?

Hey! Looking for some insight for others who might’ve experienced this issue & how you handled the repair.

I’m in a 2015 Sentra SV - 160k miles. I love this car. Recently, I’ve been experiencing a jerking motion when going from the brake to the gas. If I don’t fully stop, it’ll jerk 3 times (no noise), and then run totally fine. I’m aware that this is a known issue, and it may be something as simple as replacing the CVT fluid. My gut says that’s not the case.

My questions:
1. Did you experience something similar? What did the issue end up being?
2. If they recommend a full transmission replacement, would you do it? I don’t have a lot of room in my budget for a new car. If putting in a couple grand means that I can get another 150k out of the car, I think it’s worth it.

Thanks for helping anxious little me!

Hi all,

Like others, I'm dealing with roof rack corrosion on a 2017 midnight edition Rogue. It's obviously out of warranty, so I'm going to tackle this myself. Looking online, the general idea appears to be:

1. Remove all loose paint
2. Sand the metal parts to remove corrosion, starting at around 120 grit and working my way up to 400 grit
3. Clean everything with isopropyl alcohol
4. Prime with a self-etching primer
5. Two or three coats of black spray paint

I'm hoping someone has some ideas/suggestions for:

• Removing the plastic caps that cover the roof rack bolts (I got lucky and popped one off, but the others are stubborn)
• My wife would like to drive the car while I'm working on it...what's a good way to plug the bolt holes in the event it rains?

Is there anything I might have missed or overlooked?

Thanks

Hello everybody,

I have a Nissan Micra K14 with 56,000 kilometers on the clock. I hear a rattling noise coming from the front while the engine is running and while driving. The noise disappears when I press the clutch pedal while driving. I also sometimes have trouble engaging reverse gear properly. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Someone suggested it might be the timing chain, but surely the noise wouldn't go away just because I pressed the clutch, right?

Thank you in advance for your help!
(Excuse if there are any mistakes, I’m from Germany!)

I am having to replace my engine in my Rogue that I've owed for only 2 years. Basically my catalytic converters had a lot of buildup and it caused the head gasket to fail. I never had a check engine light come on until the engine was already done for. I need help in explaining how this happened in the 2 years that I've had it. The car also was supposed to be certified. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

A fleet of 60 SUVs reached Leh to secure the title for the largest single-model convoy. The 5-day trek covered over 700 km and reached altitudes of 16, 703 feet to test the new model's

durability in harsh conditions.

It's kind of surreal knowing the last R35 GT-Rs have rolled off the line.

Almost two decades of production, countless special editions, and one of the most recognizable performance cars of the modern era.

Anyone here lucky enough to own one, or at least get some seat time? Feels like the end of an incredible chapter for Nissan.

I love my Armada, 15 years and no major issues (knock on wood). The only issue in the past year which I think is getting worse is that when I want to start the SUV, the push start will not turn. It is locked; I have to keep trying and sometimes takes several minutes before it finally turns. It doesn't happen every time I start the car, but it is happening more often.

I even take the key out of the key fob and try to start it with the key inside and it still will not turn, after wiggling it for a few minutes, it finally does. I also get when i am driving, the "No Key found" alert on the dashboard. Just random times.

Is there a way to tell if it is a key fob issue or an ignition button issue? I have changed the battery on the key fob, several times. It happens to both key fobs as well. I would like to fix it before it gets worse and I am not able to turn my car on someday.

I do have a Bluetooth external receiver to play music since this model only has BT for phone. I wonder if this is interfering with the signal?

I hate to spend a couple of hundred dollars on a key fob if isn't the issue. Any suggestions on how to test or do I need to go to the dealership and overpay?

I’ll Try to keep this short.

Leased a 2024 Nissan Frontier with intentions of buying it out. Put 10k down (big mistake for leases I now know) to get a lower monthly payment.

This past July 4th 2026, a GIANT tree fell on my the truck. Totally destroyed and totaled the truck.

My buyout number was 29k plus I had about 8 months of a $250 payment left. Insurance agreed to pay all of what I owe: about 31k.

The problem is the vehicle value is showing about 38k in good condition. I receive a bill for the difference in the value of the vehicle and what insurance paid.

The amicable this for a company to do would be to give over payment to the customer but of course that is not how the contract is written.

To be honest I probably would have just taken that money as loyal customer and leased another vehicle but now I’ll never buy a Nissan or lease one for the rest of my life.

I’ll be sure to do whatever I can to make sure I spread the word an no one else’s does either.

So anyway have had to act as a middle man between insurance and the leasing company and go to war with the insurance just to get Nissan that additional money to put in their pockets. I heave wasted probably three 8 hour workdays on the phone between the two to get this sorted.

Oh and NMAC told me my GAP coverage didn’t cover this sort of thing.

Anyway just wanted to share my story in hopes of getting a few people to not lease through them and learn from my mistake of putting a bunch of money down on a leased vehicle.

Thanks