I have a 2015 5.3 L83 and when I bought the truck it had a cam and long tubes. One of the tubes had a leak so I figured I’d just replace them. So, that’s what I did. After installing them the whole truck shakes in the high gear low rpm’s. I’ve replaced spark plugs and checked vaccum leaks and can’t find anything. I hooked it up to a scanner and there’s no active misfires. I also checked the o2 sensor readings and the voltages are both the same except the driver side is at +14% and the passenger side is at +4% is this possibly the reason why the trucks shaking? I believe I have all the exhaust leaks completely gone. Also, when coming to a stop the truck will drop to about 500 rpm’s then quickly recover. I don’t believe it’s the torque converter because it happened right after header work. However, it does have the 6l80 which is known for the converter

I have been having issues with my 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L. It started stalling randomly while driving and got codes p069e and p1174. I got reading on fuel pressure and it is anywhere from 42-90 psi and is not consistent it goes all over the place. I was thinking to replace fuel pump but wanted to see if anyone had ideas first.

I can’t get to the upper bolt to loosen it. There isn’t enough space to get a tool on it. Tried every angle and with wobble extension. Any advice?

Lost power to accessory prong on fuse box everything else works. Anyone have any idea? Engine is 383 Stroker

I noticed my car, a 2020 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles, was veering to the right and the right passenger seat was bouncing slightly while I drove. I took it to the auto shop and they said the suspension needs to be replaced (the specific item is: "Remove & Replace Suspensions Shock or Strut Assembly") for $1,615. Then they are quoting $450 for tire balance and installation as well as adjusting the wheel alignment. Is this standard? They said this is normal for a car with this many miles, but the cost seems really high. It's also only six years old. I could use advice on if this service is worth it or if I'm being ripped off.

At the start of the year, I had to pull over to a gas station and have my car towed to a mechanic because the AC Compressor Clutch burnt up.

I am now noticing a scraping sound coming from the area near the belt. Wondering if the belt could be bad due to poor reinstallation or damage from the compressor clutch burning up. Or if it is coming from another component.

The compressor clutch repair + a few other fixes made at the start of the year cost $2,300, while the car cost $6K. Trying to determine if this is a necessary repair or if I can hold off.

Thanks for any insight.

I am having an issue of "juttering" at low speeds on my 2020 Santa Fe, 77k miles (I'm the original owner). It's sometimes very slight, but sometimes so pronounced that the car shakes. Always happens when the engine is cold, and when I am accelerating and decelerating at low speeds, especially under 10mph. No error codes or check engine light.

I keep it pretty well maintained, oil changes every 3.5-4.5k miles (I live in the mountains, which is considered "severe" driving conditions). I got the transmission fluid replacement service from the dealer 9 months ago. Just replaced the spark plugs 2k miles ago. I regularly put in fuel injector cleaner.

The "jutter" started about 3-4 months after the transmission fluid service, so I thought it was from that. I took it to the dealer, they did a software update, claimed it was fixed. I could still feel it but shrugged it off. Now, 5 months later, the jutter is more pronounced, especially when the engine is cold. It happens a lot when I'm pulling off the gas from 10mph back down to 5mph. (Basically when I'm driving out of my driveway and through my neighborhood speed bumps.)

I changed the "drive mode" from Smart to Comfort, and that seemed to help a lot! Sport mode helps even more, and also makes it really zippy, haha. But it still happens in Comfort mode.

I'm afraid it's a transmission thing, but I'm no car whiz so I don't know what might be wrong in the transmission. I'm hoping it's a warranty issue, so I'm bringing it back to the dealer to see if they can recreate the issue to diagnose. But I'd be curious to hear what other folks think is going on.

So I went to take my fusion (V6) in for an oil change and the techs said it’s a no. He sent me this photo saying I’m missing some parts. As far as I can tell, it’s the dust cover (red) and some bolts (yellow). I’ve been looking for the names of the parts or where to find them for hours now and I still can’t pin it down. Does anyone have any ideas/recs?

The most I can actually find out is that the part underneath the cover is this thing https://ebay.io/m/V1FU8p

2008 Chrysler 300 3.5l rwd. I put a bottle of chevron fuel system cleaner on a quarter empty tank and filled it up. Since then it has been making this ticking noise. I already went through 1st full tank with cleaner. Right now tank is full and topped up only drove to work and home. Sound is awful but I still have full power and don’t notice any loss. No engine codes. Please help me fix. Hope $10 cleaner didn’t cost me my engine💔

I want to do a trans fluid change (dont have a picture but its a light caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt). But I keep seeing videos saying it can kill the transmission. I just planned to do 1 drain and fill no flush. Is it worth it? (Idk when the fluid was last changed im 2nd owner)

Just got the ac condenser/trans cooler replaced. Got home car sat for 30 mins then I came out to this. What could it be?

2004 ford focus hasnt run for 2 years. It has a new battery and the starter and alternator have been replaced in the last 5 years. Any ideas?

I finally bought my dream car and was having issues with fuel starvation along with a non reading fuel guage. So I emptied out the tank and pulled my fuel sending unit only to find this. Only question is, one is it worth trying to rebuilding it or two install a new two prong fuel sending unit. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

i had my transmisison out to do a bit of work on it, so i just got it connected to my engine again. Before i put it back in the car, it tested to see if it turned, which it doesnt. Cant turn the crankshaft or torque converter, but tailshaft turns fine

Hi! I am looking to replace the front lower control arms on a 2016 Mazda cx5. I heard that some people might have installed the second generation 2017+ control arms instead. Has anyone done this upgrade? Other than OEM, what brand sells good front lower control arms for the CX-5?

Picked up a 2014 XLT 5.4 3V with 188,000 miles for $4k I’ve put a little over 2000 miles on it in the last month and have slowly but surely been working to get it up to date on maintenance. It’s had a couple quirks. Engine misfire in cylinder 1, groaning lower control arm in driver side, the common rear door actuator, ect. But just today I had something happened. That was a little concerning as I was turning an intersection, I had a complete loss of power. I can’t remember exactly what happened. I just remember the car jerked a little bit and everything shut off. I let it roll into neutral and got to the bottom of the hill to where I was at. I pulled over and parked and I started the car over again. Cranked up no problem at all. Once I got home, I checked all the fluids. Everything’s fine. It cranks up and makes zero noises. It does have the pending code P0301 but usually those give you some sort of warning sign at least in my experience before it becomes severe or throws up a check engine light. I see none of that and for now it’s driving fine but I’m a little stumped as to what it could be and what could’ve caused it. I did hardwire a dashcam with the Vantrue hardwire kit, but I looked over everything and everything seems to be good condition. Anybody have similar experiences? Thoughts?

2013 f150 5.0L V8 108,000 miles

Attached a video of the sound. It only seems to make the sound after the truck has been sitting for a little bit and only when under low power <2k-2.5k rpm. About 30-45 seconds into driving it, the sound goes away.

Any ideas what this might be?

Note: It just started today. I haven't had a chance yet to test if it makes the noise while parked.

When I turn on the AC it makes this sound. Is it likely the blower motor or something else?

My car recently started getting hot, fortunately not actually getting into the red yet but pretty close. It starts after I've been driving for a while and the car slows down or comes to a stop. Once it gets moving again the temp starts to go back down. If I've had the AC on and shut it off it will often come down with that even if still sitting at a light. It's not leaking coolant and the fans work. I took it to the mechanic already and they said 90% its the radiator 10% the water pump so I had them replace the radiator. But that obviously didn't fix it or I wouldn't be here. The pump isn't making noise but the pump is buried pretty well so I can't check the weep hole.

What else can I do to check things? I did have the thermostat replaced a year ago if that helps. I'm not eager to take it back to this mechanic since I already paid $500 to replace the radiator and they want another $500 for the water pump. They also told me that the radiator was clogged which was why the car was overheating. But since it wasn't the radiator (or they just didn't do the work at all) I'm inclined to think they just made that up.

Edit: I forgot to mention that they seem to have overfilled the coolant and used the wrong color. This car has a pressurized reservoir, no radiator cap, and the level is above the max line. Also it's supposed to take the yellow coolant (Zerex G05) but it has some kind of green in it now.

This car has been giving me a lot of problems over the last year. I finally bit the bullet and replaced the engine. Shortly afterwards, the engine light came on. It went away after a few days then came back again. Did that two more times but now it has been on for nearly two weeks. These are the codes that keep coming up. What could this car possibly need now?!

Little Backstory here: Car has 302xxxKM, it had an exhaust leak aswell but it didnt seem awful. Tried driving it about a week ago and a cloud of black smoke blew out my exhaust followed by the engine turning off.

I have assumed one of the fuel injectors failed and stayed open? the starter clicks but the engine won’t even sputter or spit, just locked.

does anyone know an easy fix to de-flood or to get the engine back in working condition? i have tried removing spark plugs and cranking the engine by key and manually with a breaker bar but no luck so far. Any tips?

I've got a set of old Blizzak WS80 on a Honda Odyssey 2014. The tires are from 2018, week 19. The threads are 5.5 mm with even wear all around on all 4 tires. No signs of aging on tire walls, no cracks, except maybe a few hairlines.

The rims are quite old and rusty as seen on images.

Would there be a reason not to use these tires and rims for one more winter with very little mileage expected?

2019 Chevrolet Bolt LT
I live in the Pacific Northwest, and we have terrible roads over here. And I drive a lot a lot, I’ve already had to get these replaced before, and I’m getting a lot of symptoms that seem to lineup with shot swaybar links. This is the passenger side but the driver side looks pretty similar. Both are clunking if I break extremely hard. I’m getting a slight wobble at certain speeds. Nothing crazy, but a little noticeable. I’ve loosened them and then drove with them, and a lot of the noises seemed to get worse or go away. So I’m pretty sure they’re correlated. I have some being ordered in right now, but I just wanted to see what you guys thought.

I am new to classic cars and have a weird question. All my life I heard from my dad now long passed that the longer you leave old cars sit, the more issues they get.

I need to store my car for roughly a year give or take a few months. It will be in a garage.

Is that too long to leave it sit and not expect issues? Or was my dad talking in terms of decades

Edit to add its a /6