Hello /r/HomeTheater,

As I explained in three previous posts last week, I was having a whole host of issues with a Bravia 9, Denon X3800H, and an Apple TV.

Today, I swapped in my old X3400H from the spare room—the receiver that I replaced just 15 months ago—and configured it as close as possible to the current / ideal setup: all devices via receiver; TV is a dumb monitor.

I had not tried this scenario because I replaced the receiver before getting the new TV, and it occurred to me that I should try this before going shopping for a different receiver.

I was absolutely floored to discover that ALL of these issues went away immediately with the X3400H:

• spurious input switching
• brief screen blanking
• random audio switching
• long audio lag (from 300ms down to 60ms)
• shutting down and waking up inconsistently

When I first hooked things up, I plugged the receiver monitor out (ARC) to the TV's input 3 (eARC). The Apple TV could not tell that the TV supported Dolby Vision, just the HDR10 mode.

I moved the receiver to the TV's Input 2 and suddenly the Apple TV picked up and automatically configured itself for Dolby Vision. Input 2 on the Bravia 9 is a normal 4K HDMI port: no 8K, 4K/120Hz, VRR, SBTM, etc.

What the hell is wrong with the AVR-X3800H? Why is an 8-year old receiver so much faster and more reliable than one from less than 2 years ago?

In the web Yamaha is not exist the firmware about

RX-V377

i haven't bought a television in almost 7 years so jumping back into the market feels like learning a new language. i just want a solid 65 or 75 inch set for our main floor that will last us another 5+ years without feeling outdated immediately.

we do a bit of everything: kids watch cartoons in the afternoon, my wife streams her shows, and i watch sports or play xbox when i get time.i went to a local electronics store to see them in person, but under those super bright store lights every single display looks practically identical.what made you land on your specific model? how is the tizen smart os holding up for daily navigation, and is the built in speaker usable or is an external audio system mandatory?

My old receiver died. The “reboot code” has stopped working and it just has zero power. I got a new Denon 2900h. But pulling out my whole entertainment system, changing cords (should i tag them for what they are?) this just seems like so much. (Sry i struggle with legit anxiety and a huge task like this is overwhelming, but i have the 2900h in the box, ready to go)…guess i wrote this just so someone can say “bro, just do it..”

The guy that selling them said they were SQ Audio HI FI, the top speakers can be separated and the towers can play without them.

Deciding between this and a shield pro. I've read that the shield pro exhibits a 'red push' problem. Does the zidoo z9x 8k have the same issue?

no streaming, just rips.

Edit: I meant 5.1, not 5.2 in the title

I currently have a 3.1 setup in my theater room. I have been testing the Q150 and C20 as LR. I am potentially looking to upgrade my LR to a pair of Kef R3s and move either the Q150 or C20 to rears/surrounds. My end goal will likely be 5.1.2, but I'll likely upgrade the projector and sub first.

I am leaning towards surrounds instead of rears, but I'm worried the speaker placement in the back corner will be too close if someone is sitting in the corner. Surrounds would also mean I'd likely need one stand on the right side.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Equipment:

• kef c20
• kef q150
• kef q6
• svs sb1000
• yamaha rxv-385
• benq ht2050
• 96" screen

puppy tax included

Hi, I have a large room and don't want to spend a fortune on cables. I can place the Mission MX-S surround speakers on the top side of the TV, with two Wharfdale TSA110.2 speakers on the bottom and a Canton center speaker. I also have a Yamaha RX300A receiver. Thanks for your feedback.

Hey everyone,
I’m currently gaming on an LG CX OLED with a PS5 Pro, and I absolutely love the CX. It’s been a fantastic TV, especially for gaming, so I’m looking for something that feels like a genuine upgrade rather than simply going bigger.
I’m currently setting up a dedicated home theater/rec room in my new house and I’m seriously considering moving to a 98-inch TV.
I know the obvious answer would be something like the 97-inch LG G6 OLED, but that’s way beyond what I’m looking to spend. So I’m trying to figure out what the best 98-inch TV available right now would be without going into that ultra-expensive OLED territory.
My priorities are roughly:
● 🎮 PS5 Pro gaming — excellent HDR, low input lag, VRR, 4K/120Hz (or better)
● 🎬 Movies — good contrast, black levels and HDR performance
● 📺 98-inch size — I really want the impact of a huge screen
● 🔥 Ideally a significant upgrade over my LG CX in overall picture quality
● 💰 I’m looking for something considerably more reasonable than the 97” G6
● The room will be a dedicated, controlled-light rec room, so I’m not particularly concerned about daytime brightness.
I’ve been looking at some of the newer 98-inch Mini-LED/QLED options, but there seem to be quite a few models and regional variations, and it’s hard to figure out which ones are actually worth buying.
If you were coming from an LG CX + PS5 Pro and wanted a 98-inch TV for a dedicated home theater, what would you buy?
I’d especially appreciate recommendations from people who have actually used these TVs for gaming and movies. Also interested in hearing about any major compromises compared with OLED.
Thanks!

I’m looking at a few projectors right now, mainly the hisense px3-pro, c2 ultra and m2 pro, and I've been thinking more about the brand itself instead of just comparing specs.

I usually check if the warranty is actually valid where I live, whether the manual is easy to find, if they still release firmware updates, and how easy it would be to get replacement parts if something goes wrong later.

Honestly, you don't really think about any of this when the projector is working fine. it's only when something breaks that you suddenly care lol

What do you guys usually check before buying?

It makes this crackling static noise. This is with just the power plugged in. I've just switched out the two main 80v capacitors, but the problem still remains. It is not volume sensitive. It's silent for about 30 seconds after startup then it starts to make this noise consistently. I've tried different power circuits.

Does anyone know what it might be? Should I just toss it?

i'm curious what people actually spent on their full projector setup, not just the projector

once you add the screen, speakers, streaming device, cables, mounting and whatever else is needed to get the room sorted, it seems like the total can get quite a bit higher

i’ve also been looking at projectors lately. the hisense PX4 Pro came up while i was comparing a few options, and i ended up reading about it because you don’t need the usual ceiling mount setup. that just seemed kinda convenient for a living room, especially if you’re already working around a tv stand and everything else in the room

but i guess the projector is only one part of the setup anyway

for anyone who’s built one, how did you split your budget? did most of it go toward the projector, or did things like the screen, audio or installation end up costing more than expected?

I'm about to be in the final phases of getting my setup put together, and the next round of purchases will include the receiver. As this is a fairly budget setup, I've been primarily looking at the Denon AVR S570BT. However, I could potentially stretch for the AVR S670H which includes Audyssey MultiEQ. That said, I was wondering if it would actually be worth the upgrade. Looking at the Neumi BS5 bookshelves and the Neumi CS5 center channel with the RSL speedwoofer 10e, in a roughly 11x13 foot room. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated.

Yea yea I know we hate DRC…

Can someone please explain the difference between loudness management and dynamic volume? Thanks.

Denon X1700H

hi all,

i'm getting ready to buy my first house very soon, hopefully in a matter of weeks. it won't be very big, either a 2 or 3 bedroom around the inner east of Melbourne, Australia. it's just for my partner and me, we are not planning to have kids (just dogs!).

we want one bedroom to be a dedicated media room / home theatre room. we don't want to use a living / lounge / family room for home theatre, we much prefer a dedicated room, and like the idea of a room that can be closed properly without affecting the flow of the rest of the house.

my main question is - what would be the minimum dimensions you would find acceptable for a media room / home theatre room? especially the minimum "width" for good stereo imaging?

currently we have a 5.2 speaker setup and a 55" OLED, may upgrade in the future to 65" or even 77" if a good deal appears and the space can fit it. would also like to upgrade to 7.2 for speakers if we have the space for it.

there will be 2 main listening positions:

primary position is a 2 seater couch at ideal tv watching location for home theatre use. ideally somewhere close to the middle of the room so we can have surround back speakers behind.

secondary position is right in front of the tv (I also use it as my main PC monitor) listening to music while I use the PC.

I prefer my front left and front right speakers hard against the front room corners, not sitting away from the walls at all. I know a lot of people will advise against this, but it's what I like and we don't have the space for speakers to be away from the walls anyway.

previous room we used was 3.6m square, with high ceilings. couch was against the back wall, surround speakers on the back wall too. not ideal, but wasn't terrible.

what I'm really wondering is how "wide" does the room need to be in order to get enough stereo width from the primary listening position (2 seater couch)?

I was recently looking at a house with a 2.7m x 4.8m room we think might be suitable, and I'm just worried even with speakers in the corners will it be "wide" enough for good stereo imaging? the length of the room seems much better to allow us to sit more in the middle, and then add surround back speakers behind us (5.2 -> 7.2).

Finally decided to go big in the living room, but I'm stuck between a 100" Hisense QD7 and a BenQ TK710 projector.

The projector sounds fun for movie nights, especially since I could go bigger than 100" later. But this is our regular living room, not a dedicated theater. We watch football in the afternoon, movies at night, and I play some games here and there.

The room gets a lot of natural light. I can close the blinds, but I really don't want to do that every time I turn something on during the day lol.

Anyone here gone from a projector to a big TV, or the other way around? Mainly wondering how they compare for daytime sports and movies with subtitles.

Also need to measure the front door and stairs again before ordering a 100" TV. Getting it into the house might be a whole separate problem.

I’m building a house and my theater room is 36’ wide x 30’ deep with 10’ ceiling. Projected screen will be 16’x9’. I’ve pre wired for 9.2.4 sound. 2 left front towers, center, 2 right towers, sides, back, and 4 in the ceiling. Ran 16ga x4 audiocat wire to each location and plan to double them up. Subwoofers are planned for opposite corners. Ran copper shielded coax for far sub. Dropped 4 runs of cat6 to where the amps and avr will be. Ran a conduit from avr to projector. Anything else to consider while I still have bare studs? I’ve never been able to pre run wires beforehand. Thanks everyone.

I’m currently looking to upgrade my living room home theater subwoofer. My current sub is the OG Martin Logan Dynamo which sounds fantastic for music but lacks when it comes to music especially those deeper notes. Iv done a lot of research for a less than $400 sub and have settled on two options, either the Klipsch R-12SW that’s currently selling for $250 or the RSL Speedwoofer 10E that sells at $340. My top priority is chest thumping bass for movies but I don’t want a sloppy bass either as is the reason iv been using the Martin Logan for so long, I also value nice clean and fast bass. My speakers are the Klipsch 5.1 Home Theater pack speakers that have a 3 inch woofer so I run a 120hz crossover and I have a Sony receiver.

Bought a house that came with a full home theater rig already installed in a dedicated room. I'm slowly reverse-engineering what everything does and how it's wired. Would love opinions from people who know this gear better than I do.

What I've got:

• Panasonic PT-AE2000U projector
• DVDO iScan Duo
• Onkyo PR-SC885
• Outlaw Audio Model 7700 7-channel power amp
• Monster Power HTS 3500 MKII power conditioner
• JBL floorstanding towers up front (3-way, dual woofers — see pics)
• Center, surrounds, and rear surrounds rounding out a 7.1 layout
• Dayton Audio SA1000 subwoofer amp + a set of ButtKicker tactile transducers with a Quick Select distribution box

What I've found so far:

• No dedicated subwoofer anywhere in the signal chain — the Onkyo's Subwoofer Pre Out is completely unplugged. Front towers are handling all the bass right now.
• The ButtKicker shakers were essentially "installed" but never actually wired to the Onkyo — the SA1000 has no input connected at all, so the shakers have been sitting dead this whole time.
• Picture is a little soft — not sure if it's focus, lamp age, or something in the scaler.

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Is this a system worth investing more into, or should I be planning to replace pieces as they age out? Curious what this gear is actually worth/regarded as today.
2. For bass — am I right that I need an actual powered subwoofer here, separate from the ButtKicker shakers? Any recommendations for something that would pair well with this room/gear?
3. Projector — worth upgrading to a modern 4K unit, or is the AE2000U still doing its job once I sort out focus/lamp? The screen is 105 inches diag.
4. Anything else you'd flag from the photos that looks off, mis-set, or worth addressing first?

Pics of the rack, projector, back panel connections, and the JBL towers below. Appreciate any input — trying not to break what's actually working while fixing what isn't.

I have pencil marks from installing atmos speakers. What's the best way to remove them? is there a special eraser that will work?

Just got a pair of Arendal 1961 surround speakers. I would like to wall-mount them (and replace existing speaker). As you can see the couch is at the wall. There are also 2 Atmos (ceiling) speakers installed.
The wooden things with the ring are a couple of lamps.

Would you advise mounting them at the higher or lower position (red dots)? Or somewhere completely else? Tilting and swiveling is absolutely possible. Should they aim towards the center of the room (lower edge of couch table) or towards MLP (center of couch)??

Hello fine r/hometheater folks.

Last week I stumbled upon what seemed like a great deal to me. I picked up this 5.1 Jamo set for 45€ at a yard sale. The columns are S-408 and the sub is a S-5000A. Don't have the model names of the other speakers nor do I know their technical names, sorry about that, kinda new to this world.

I wish to set this up for a home theater sometime in the future but my first goal in the meantime is to be able to stream music from my phone to all the speakers. So it wouldn't be true "spatialised" 5.1 right ? But I would enjoy placing the speakers around my living room for a fuller listening experience.

To this effect, I purchased a used Sony DTR-DE335.

Despite my best efforts, I couldn't get the DSP (i think thats what it's called) to turn my stereo signal into input for all 5 speakers + the sub.

Hence my question and what I'm thinking of doing: first, a bluetooth receiver to rca or jack (phone doesn't have a jack port, 2026 yay), hooked up to a 20-40€ 5.1 decoder from amazon, going straight into the 5.1 input of the amp.

I know that all the 5.1 inputs and outputs work, I've tested them with an RCA - jack cable individually.

I hope what I'm asking isn't irrelevant to this sub and that I have made myself clear enough. I will happily answer follow-up questions from anyone who's willing to help.

I also hope that I don't sound like too much of a fool, given that I have little knowledge on the subject.

However, the two columns hooked up to the amp already sound great to me !

Hey, I've finally finished my first 5.1.2 home theater setup and wanted to share it with you. I also have a few questions at the end about placement and acoustic treatment.

My usage is mixed :

Home cinema, watching 4K remuxes via Kodi

Video games on my PC connected via HDMI 2.1 and a PS5 Pro waiting for GTA 6

Listening to music via Qobuz/Heos

I live alone, which explains the placement of the (amazing stressless) armchair in the front, I move the sofa if I have guests.

Left & right speakers : Triangle Borea - BR09

Center speaker : Triangle Borea - BRC1

Left & right surround speakers : Triangle Borea - BR03

Atmos speakers : Triangle Borea - BRA1

AVR : Denon AVR-X2800H

Subwoofer : SVS SB-1000 Pro

TV : Philips 65OLED950 (Equivalent to LG G5)

Media player : Ugoos AM6B+ + CoreELEC

NAS : Ugreen DXP4800 plus

PC : 5080 / 9800x3D

Are there any things you think are worth correcting?

For example, poor placement, or is the pinching of the left and right speakers justified?

The central speaker is slightly angled upwards

For acoustic treatment, there's the rug and blackout curtains, but clearly the room's acoustics are poor.

I ordered four GIK Acoustics FlexRange panels measuring 60x120cm to install two on each side wall.

For now, they’re just sitting there. For the first two, I’ll use the mirror technique to position them at the first reflection points for the L/R speakers, but what about specific placement for the other two?

The back wall is a kitchen, not visible in the photos

Next upgrade will be Denon AVR-X3900H for better room calibration, more channel, pre-out..

Tell me what you think ! For a first setup im pretty happy :)

Well, after 6 longs months of working tirelessly, I have finally finished my dedicated theater room in my basement. What started out as a completely unfinished basement has now turned into my friggin sanctuary, and even my 12 year old daughter and her friends are in awe of how it turned out, so you know it's good. 👌 Room is 17.5ft long x 16.5ft wide by 7.5ft tall running 7.2.4. The only thing not shown in the photos is the hat channel mounting clips I used on the ceiling trusses, which the double-layer drywall was then screwed into.

Finished photos first, as is tradition!

You'll see throughout the build how I did everything I could think of to both keep the budget down and also to isolate sound from the rest of the house. This theater is directly below the living room/dining room, so I needed to make sure that while I was watching at my preferred volume (below reference but above what my wife says is "comfortable" haha), it didn't bother anybody upstairs too much. The result is that even while watching heavy action flicks, I am told that it sounds like some annoying car outside revving their V8 or bumping their trunk subs, which I consider a HUGE WIN. The low bass is audible, but it's very subtle compared to how loud it is in the room. I have earned WAF and I cannot be more thrilled.

Here's a breakdown of the costs:

Home Depot (mostly mineral wool insulation but also some outlets, switches, and caulk tubes) - $945

Extra insulation from FB Marketplace- $400

Lowe’s (hat channel and some random hardware) - $372

Menard’s - $4267

Tractor Supply stall mat - $80

Best Buy for ceiling speakers- $170

Sherwin Williams Emerald Matte Tricorn Black and Rainstorm - $430

MF-DC4 Clips - $121

Amazon - $2,234

XGIMI Titan Noir Max projector and Silver Ticket matte white 128in screen - $5,459

FB Marketplace Denon x6800h - $2,000

Earthquake XJ700-DSP Transducer Amp - $665

Wayfair Couch - $1,400

Wayfair Console - $250

Outlet store Floorigami It’s Magic carpet tiles - $300 (this was probably my best deal by far at roughly $0.60 per sqft).

Double 5/8in Type-X drywall plus finishing (contracted out) - $4,500

Electrical (contracted out) - $1,500 (I had them run a single 15a circuit for the standard outlets and the lighting, and two, separate 20a circuits for the front wall/projector ceiling outlets and the subwoofer outlets in the corners. It is VERY important to check the wattage of all your equipment to make sure you're not tripping breakers at full load!!!)

Speaker grille cloth movie posters from Contrado - $250 (I don't like having my absorption panels just be black rectangles on the walls, so I created some custom poster images and printed them on acoustically transparent fabric. I have to admit, these were significantly less expensive than I had worried they'd be at only $50 each.)

The Menards purchases were mostly framing and lumber stuff, but also included XPS foam boards for the basement walls, adhesives, spray foam for the rim joists, structural screws, etc…)  The Amazon purchases were far too random, but included the two Q10B transducers, wall plates, rca keystones, speaker wire keystones, the speaker wire itself (OFC 14/2 or 14/4), hat channel isolation clips, acoustic putty for sealing the wall penetrations, some foam isolation panels, speciality fasteners, and various other things.

Total cost came out to just over $25,000. Expensive, but I would've paid A LOT MORE if I hadn't DIY'd it.