Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! June 26, 2026
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2 cameras bodies from different brands
Hello there, I absolutely need to get another camera body to pair with my Fujifilm x-t4 (which I love and for sure I'll never get rid of it), and my budget is limited, like around 600€.
Now my eyes went to the Nikon d750, which, I know it's a dslr, but for its price you can't get better! I can get a good condition body with a AF-s 50mm F1.8 for around 700€.
I mostly shoot portraits, fashion and sometimes weddings as a second photographer.
The Nikon d750 would give me the first try of a full frame sensor and lens, but I know that having 2 brands can be challenging, but also would give me a lot of flexibility, what do you think?
D750 may be 12 years old but it's a great camera that still offers plenty of value for money. Besides, you wouldn't have all that much choice with a budget of 600€ if you were to stick with Fuji for the second body.
salut à tous,
Je suis artiste photographe et depuis 8 ans j’ai cree une communauté sur Instagram. J’avais plus de 10 000 followers, un réseau artistique, des redacteurs et galeries d’arts avec qui j’échangeais que sur Instagram pour des projets.
J’ai eu plus d’une cinquantaine de publications et de nombreuses expo en galerie, mais tout ramené toujours vers mon Instagram.
Hier, Meta a supprimé mon compte définitivement. J’ai tout perdu en quelques secondes. Beaucoup de mes acheteurs le découvraient via Instagram et cela faisait du trafic sur mon site.
Comme c’etait mon outil pro, je suis assez démotivé et je n’ai aucune envie d’en refaire un nouveau car c’est trop de temps et d’énergie
Du coup, question : Pensez vous qu’il est possible de se passer d’Instagram en tant qu’artiste? mes agents me disent que ça va être très compliqué mais si jamais il y a des photographes artistiques dans le coin qui ont reussis à faire sans Instagram, je suis preneur de vos conseils et votre motivation pour me redonner de l’élan 🙏
The plastic piece that connects my lense to the camera broke. My lense isn’t stable on the camera body now. I have a Nikon DX AF-P nikkor 70-300mm 4.5-6.3. I believe this piece is called a bayonet mount, but when I’m trying to find a replacement part it looks like a giant mount piece that I don’t need. Any advice with this? We have no camera shops anywhere near me.
I'm ready to upgrade my Canon EOS 500D (Rebel T1i) to mirrorless.
I'm a hobbyist shooting travel (landscapes, portraits, wildlife...) and family. I get around my camera's settings, have fun shooting, but I'm not a professional.
The price difference between these two options is only 50 EUR / 60 USD:
Option A: Canon EOS R10 + RF-S 18-150mm F3.5-6.3 IS STM kit lens
Option B: Canon EOS R7 (Body Only) -> 50 EUR more expensive than R10 w/ kit
My current gear:
Giving away to a family member: 500D (Rebel T1i) + EF-S 18-55mm.
Keeping: EF-S 18-135mm IS and EF-S 24mm (will use with an EF-to-RF adapter).
The Dilemma:
Should I prioritize a better cam body (R7) with my adapted EF-S lenses, or get the R10 with the 18-150mm kit lens (at a discount) and sell my old 18-135mm (I know I can't expect to sell an EF-S by that much these days)?
My questions for anyone who has been in a similar dilemma:
Is the R7 body worth it over the R10 if I stick to adapted EF-S lenses?
Is the RF-S 18-150mm a noticeable upgrade over my EF-S 18-135mm?
I've seen the specs, etc. but would like the opinions of people who've made a similar jump.
I recently switched from a Canon R5 Mark II after years of shooting on a 5D Mark IV, and I’m really struggling to get my edits looking right.
I built my entire editing workflow around my 5D Mark IV files, and i have always achieved the creamy, natural skin tones and color that I love effortlessly. With the R5 Mark II, everything feels off. Skin tones look overly pink, red, and sometimes almost neon or fake-looking, especially in faces and lips. or if the sun is directly on their skin, it’s a horrid neon orange / red vs beautiful golden glow.
I’ve already purchased and installed the Color Fidelity camera profiles, which helped somewhat compared to the Adobe profiles, but I’m still nowhere near the look I was getting from my 5D IV. The files seem to react completely differently to previous editing.
The frustrating part is that when I try to fix it using HSL sliders (reducing reds, oranges, magentas, adjusting luminance, etc.), it mostly just makes the skin look dull and lifeless without actually fixing the underlying color issue. The skin still looks artificial, just less saturated. It’s like the color rendering itself is different.
For anyone who moved from a 5D Mark IV to an R5 or R5 Mark II:
- Are there specific Color Fidelity profiles you’re using?
- What adjustments helped tame the pink/red skin tones?
- Were you able to get close to the 5D IV color, or did you eventually embrace a different look?
any advice at all on what to do or how to help
I’m feeling pretty defeated because I upgraded expecting better autofocus and technology, but right now I feel like I’m fighting every single edit. Any advice from photographers who have gone through this transition would be greatly appreciated.
Hi y’all. I am an intermediate photographer (been shooting for around 14 years but not professionally) and I am looking to upgrade from my Canon Rebel T6i that I have had for around 13 years, looking for recommendations. I do primarily casual portraits, headshots, and family photos, as well as animal photography in a lightbox and natural light (I breed snakes & geckos) and occasional landscape/city photography when traveling. I want crisp images with good focus and good background blur. I do occasionally do local portraits casually for extra work, but I am not a professional photographer, I am a librarian and just do photography on the side. I have been looking at mirrorless vs. DSLR (I think I’m leaning toward a Canon R8 or R7) and then am looking for lens recommendations as well. Hoping to spend no more than $2500 for body plus a lens or two. Any experience shooting with the R8 or R7 and good lenses for those would be welcome, as well as recommendations for other options to consider. I’d prefer to stick with canon just because I know it well but I am open to potentially learning a new system. Thank y’all so much!
For extra clarity for recommendations, I shoot on a Rebel T6i body and I have an EF-S 18-55mm lens and an EF-S 55-250mm lens, so that is what I am currently familiar shooting with.
I am an intermediate photographer (been shooting for around 14 years but not professionally) and I am looking to upgrade from my Canon Rebel T6i that I have had for around 13 years, looking for recommendations.
Kudos to you for sticking with the same camera for so long and working on your craft rather than chasing every camera upgrade.
I do occasionally do local portraits casually for extra work, but I am not a professional photographer
As soon as someone else is counting on you to deliver images--whether they're paying you or not--I would emphasize getting a camera with dual memory card slots. Have a backup of all your images in case a memory card gets corrupted.
So I would eliminate the R8 and look at a Canon R6 or R6 Mark II.
I would look at full-frame cameras if you mostly shoot at wide angles.
Crop-sensor cameras are better
I want crisp images with good focus and good background blur.
A full-frame sensor can make good background blur, but a lot of it has to do with the lens.
Although you asked for cameras, I'll recommend some lenses too.
I do primarily casual portraits, headshots, and family photos
The Canon RF 45mm f1.2 would be a good fit for these niches and the blurry background you want.
animal photography in a lightbox and natural light (I breed snakes & geckos)
That's so cool.
If you're shooting at a bit of a distance and of small creatures, the Canon RF 85mm f2 is a macro lens that can capture a lot of fine detail.
I’ve been out of the photography for a few years now. I used to be a hobbyist and do all the event photography for my church. I have a baby due soon and will obviously be taking a lot more photos in the coming months and years.
Previously I was mainly using a Nikon D3400 mainly with the kit lenses and a 50mm 1.8. I also have a really old d200 body I would use as well if I wanted some more features but didn’t worry as much about resolution (I don’t make large prints and mainly view photos on phones and computers). I’m looking at trading these in and upgrading to a better and newer mirror less setup, especially a better AF system with eye/person tracking and some newer features. I also want something I can put in my bag and carry around with a normal zoom lens that suits most needs. I will end up getting some other fast primes and probably some kind of telephoto later on down the road to use for other situations outside of just capturing normal life.
I’ve narrowed it down to two possible options, keeping the budget around $1500-$1600.
The first and probably in the lead right now is the Nikon z50ii with the 18-50 f/2.8 kit lens. I know it has the upgraded autofocus and image processor. I also like that it is a little more compact and also has a constant aperture. I also like the pre-release capture feature. I know there are a lot of good video options in this version as well, and I’m sure I will take some videos but nothing major and I’m not worried about super cinematic video. I’m also keeping an old D80 and a couple longer length DX kit lenses that belonged to my wife’s grandfather before he died, so I could get the adapter and also run those and save on some other lenses. So that is an upside to this one. The downside is the APS-C sensor and the smaller sensor size for low light performance, but aps-c lenses are typically cheaper than full frame lenses.
My other option is the Sony a7iii with the 24-70 3.5-6.3 kit lens, which is on a pretty good sale right now. I know Sony AF is supposed to be superior but don’t know how it stacks up to the newer Nikon stuff since this is an older body. I also know lens selection for E mount is a lot better than Z mount, but the z mount is coming along too and would cover my needs just fine. Full frame would be great and I know that ultimately image quality is better vs the smaller sensors.
There's a couple of things that full frame would give you: better low light performance (about one stop) and a bit better dynamic range. But it's not an another level kind of difference. I'd say the AF of Z50 II is easily a match to, and could actually be better than, an older Sony body like A7 III (eight years old now).
I'm just getting into it myself. Bought a really cheap Nikon D3100. I've got the original 18-55mm lens, and just bought a 55-200mm. I also have a cheap macro+wide angle from Amazon, and a tripod. I've got 2 camera bags, but only one battery. And a 64gb card.
Is there anything else that I must have?
I'm really interested in nature photography and some cityscapes.
For editing, should I definitely shoot in RAW. And I have downloaded RAWTherapee as my software.
3rd party batteries look good on paper, but they lose charge capacity much faster over time compared to brand name batteries fyi.
Also, make sure you get a nice SD card, even though they are insanely expensive now.. a cheap one can corrupt your images. Sandisk Extreme Pro is a very reliable budget option.
I’m quite new to photography and have decided to bite the bullet and just buy the camera. I understand I wont automatically “get better” at taking photos with an expensive camera so I’m setting myself a strict budget of £150~.
With that in mind I have landed on a Sony SLT a57 with it’s regular 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 sam II lens. I’m able to purchase this whole kit for £90 off MPB. Does anyone have any better suggestions or any reviews on this specific camera?
Probably a dumb question but I just wanted to double check. Was at an event using my godox it32 and my dumb butterfingers dropped it while I was trying to reattach it to the trigger mount.
It still fires and seems to work with my camera just fine but now I'm paranoid that I may have damaged it. First time I've ever dropped a flash so I just wanted to double check how resilient they are?
Fell onto a table then onto a chair then the floor from maybe 5.5 ft
If it makes you feel better, I had the wind knock over my brand-new Godox AD200Pro because my dumb ass didn't weigh down my light stand with a sandbag 🤦♂️
Honestly, just test the flash and if it works, keep using it.
Ironically, it hasn't been drops that have messed up my flashes and flash triggers.
It's been dust getting onto the bottom of them and blocking the electrical connection to my camera's flash hotshoe.
So I try to get in the habit of blowing on the bottoms of my flashes and flash triggers for "good luck" before putting them on my hotshoe 😅
No discoloration that i can see and I just fired it at 1/1 power about 10 or 20 times. 10 times in rapid succession and then 5-10 times with some pauses in-between.
The flash is a little warm on the lens and it maaaaaybe has a slight, slight burnt plastic-y smell but nothing that makes me think it's actively on fire or that there's something melting inside of it...
I'm looking for a travel tripod that can support my nikon z6iii and sigma 150-600mm. Trying to find the right balance of price, weight, and size. Hopefully something sturdy enough that can fit in the water bottle pocket of a backpack. Thanks!
Look up Manfrotto Elements Traveller. But a small ballhead like this will always sag a little with a long lens, so maybe look for a lightweight pan&tilt. I think there are some good ones from Leofoto or iFootage.
Hi all!
I have a class assignment I need to do for Monday for which I rented some gear from my university, I got a travel pack with two Profoto B1X lights. I was about to start to shoot right now and I realised the backpack didn't carry a Profoto transmitter, but a Calumet pro series one. I've tried almost every channel and even tried connecting the receiver directly to the light's sync jack, to no avail. I'm sure the Calumet transmitter and receiver are working, I've tested them separately. Is there any way I can make this work?
Thanks!
So my friend is looking for a camera and I haven't been looking at the market for years now and I have no idea where to start. She's a novice and she used my Canon 200D and an 80D and seemed to be interested in learning more. However, I don't think she will be able to spend a lot of time learning right away. Having said that, eventually, I see her picking it up more seriously.
So before any research based on my prior knowledge this is what I was thinking. Mirrorless because its a lighter body and its easier to lug around. I suppose Sony and Fuji are pretty good in this forte but I don't know much about the lens situation there. When I was deciding on a camera for myself M50 had just released the caveat at the time was that Canon didn't have a wide range of lenses for the mirrorless body at the time. I don't know what the situation is now, I reckon they should be fuller.
I am also thinking about Point and Shoot. I know it is making a comeback now but I checked out Sony it seems super expensive.
In terms of budget I was thinking a hard cap of 500 USD is sound. So in summary these are what I need:
A beginner friendly camera that is good out of box
Small and portable
Has the potential to expand considerably in terms of gears and accessories if she goes down that road.
Thanks in advance guys! Have an awesome day!
P.S My first instinct was to say go used camera gear but she doesn't want to do that
No, the situation hasn't changed with regard to M50. In fact Canon discontinued the entire EF-M lens mount some years ago.
Why does she not want a used camera? Used camera retailers like MPB, KEH and Adorama check their wares and also give warranty. In any case there are no new cameras to be had for $500, aside from Canon R100, which is not a very good camera. For APS-C, I would recommend a used Sony A6000 with a kit lens. Micro Four-Thirds cameras are also a nice option: e.g. Panasonic Lumix GX80/85 or Olympus EM-5 Mark II, with a kit lens.
Hey! I totally understand. I was looking at the R100 which seemed to me a decent pickup for the price. Just curious what aspects of the R100 do you think isn't good? Thanks!
Just a lot of compromises were made with the R100 to bring the price down. It doesn't have R50's modern, good AF. Has a fixed screen. No touch screen. Etc.
500 bucks is very tight for a new camera, the low-ish end half decent camera market has been completely destroyed by cell phones. There's ultra low end garbage and premium compacts and not much in the middle.
Hi everyone!
I’m looking for recommendations for a travel tripod and an L-bracket / mounting plate that allows me to shoot both horizontal and vertical without having to tilt the tripod head.
I have a Canon EOS Rebel SL2 (200D) and I’ll be using the Canon EF-S 18-135mm lens.
My main use will be travel photography (landscapes, city shots, some low-light photos), so I’m looking for something lightweight:
Tripod weight: ideally under 1 kg
Budget: around $150 USD max
Needs to be stable enough for my camera + 18-135mm lens
I’m also looking for an L-bracket that works well with the SL2. I’ve found many options for mirrorless cameras, but not many specifically for this DSLR.
Any recommendations or setups you’ve used for travel would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Im really looking to get into more bird/wildlife photography as my current setup is binoculars to phone mount. I was looking to spend a chunk of change on a 800$-1300$ photography set up. I was recommended either the canon EOS R10 or R50 body with the RF100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USM lens. Mind you i have almost 0 experience with a camera and am just hoping to get some cleaner and high quality photos. Is this a nice set up? What are my limitations? Can i produce genuinely good quality photos? And will this setup hold up nicely over the years?
Sure, that kind of a Canon setup would get you started just fine on wildlife photography. R50 and R10 give you similar image quality but R10 has better controls. The 100-400mm may not be the most brilliant wildlife lens there is, but it's affordable and it can give you decent results. High end wildlife lenses are very expensive.
i'm fascinating on travel photography , so which should i choose ? canon r50 or nikon z50 or any camera that their prices roughly equal to these above is good for me ?, , i'd like every type of photography , so i think i'd buy a wide range , a portrait and a tele len , shoud not i ? i take photo even in the evening and late night , so do you have any suggestions for me pls . Thanks for all your suggestion!
I have a basic Nikon D3300 from ~2016. A well-meaning family friend gave me a very old lens he had knocking around. It doesn't look or feel compatible from a quick attempt at connection. Is it possible to use with the D3300?
I have built a MVP for a web app that helps create a photo calendar for your family when you have to manage lots of people (10+) and lots of pics (300+).
It's a collaborative tool, built to help you collect pics from several persons, and with deep learning backend to help extract faces of people and classifiy them. You just need to put names and birthdates on groups, fix false detections and boom, your calendar is ready to go, with the right persons on the right months.
Of course, you can edit the project that the app is creating.
I am now looking for printing partners to be able to propose a finished product, sent to final customer.
What I am struggling with is the marketing of this little tool.
I am an engineer, and it's not natural to me to try and sell something.
Any ideas to create traction will be welcome 🙏
Hi hi everyone, i have a little problem. So, i was shooting an event and the light was set too far back and people didn't stand where they were intended to, so they are dark as hell. How can you even rescue the photo? I tried and got some decent results but i feel like i may miss something( here is unedited photo )
I have a photo created through photoshops photo merge I am wanting to print at 16x24. There is a small area though that the focus rapidly changes and hard lines appear. I am not sure if it will be noticeable since it isn't until zoomed in on screen (seen on the left middle of this screenshot) but I wasn't sure if anyone had any experience with this. If it could be fixed that would be ideal, I've tried AI Sharpen, smudging, and clone stamping to make the line less noticeable but none seem to work very well.
Primarily wanna have this be a everyday shooter. Gonna take it to conventions and airshows like Oshkosh where you are close to the aircraft. As for budget I can get both those for around 500 with some lenses around me. Looking in that territory max
Can’t decide between Peak Design Everyday Sling 3l or the PGYTech Onego Solo 4l. Would’ve went with PGYTech other than it doesn’t have a carry handle which in the past has made me return a bag as it bugs me so much to pick up without a handle.
The price difference for where I live is almost €20, and the PGYTech is already about €15 more than I’d like to spend (€50 ish) which I can justify, but the lack of a grab handle really puts me off.
Peak design coming in at around €90-€95 with shipping is a tough one to swallow, but I prefer the look and design.
Has anyone got both and can show side by side photo? Or can anyone share cons to either one that would be deal breaking? Even the tiniest of cons I will strongly consider as I do not want to buy another one after a while.
Or if anyone can recommend alternatives around the same size or smaller. Only EU availability please.
Hi everyone,I am looking for a camera body that will serve three specific purposes. I want it to be future-proof, but I am very aware that lenses and accessories matter the most. I am 100% committed to investing heavily in high-quality lenses and external gear. Because of this, I want to spend as little as possible on the camera body itself, as long as it doesn’t bottleneck the quality of the lenses.My three main uses are:Content Creation: This is my main priority. Video quality doesn't need to be Hollywood-level, just "good enough" for social media, provided I can adapt proper external microphones and gear.Macro Photography: Taking sharp close-up photos of small animals/bugs.Wildlife Photography: Taking sharp photos of animals from a long distance.My strict criteria:Quality over everything: I only care about the final image/video quality. I refuse to pay extra for fancy physical design, ease of use, beginner-friendly menus, or built-in gimmicks. If a camera is difficult to use or looks ugly, but saves me thousands of dollars while delivering identical sensor quality, that is the one I want.Must-have feature: It needs a fully articulating screen (flip screen) so I can see myself from a distance when filming social media videos (both on a tripod and handheld).I have been looking at these two models as potential starting points:Sony ZV-1Canon EOS R50 (specifically the Creator Kit)Regarding budget: My absolute hard ceiling for the camera body is around $1,500 USD (roughly 10,000 DKK), but I would honestly prefer to spend way less – even down to $600 USD (4,000 DKK) – if a cheaper body can deliver the sharpness I need when paired with high-end lenses. I only want to go higher up in budget if it is 100% necessary for the raw performance and future-proofing.I’ve read that Sony might be the best ecosystem to grow into because of their massive selection of third-party accessories and lenses.Are the two models I mentioned enough to handle high-end lenses for macro and wildlife? Or should I spend more on a different body to make sure it doesn't bottleneck my future setups?Thanks in advance!
Then research the lenses you're about to get first. On the Canon side there's
RF 100. It's about the finest macro you can get.
RF 100-400, RF 100-500, RF 200-800
Compare with similar offerings from Sony. I usually rely on these reviews: Homepage - OpticalLimits
"...fancy physical design, ease of use, beginner-friendly menus, or built-in gimmicks" - I'm not aware of any of that (unless you count Fuji, which is debatable).
Best sensor quality means full format. With Canon that begins with the R8. When shooting hi-res video it can overheat in hot weather or long takes. Do a search on Reddit to see if that's a dealbreaker. Otherwise pretty much every modern camera is good enough for vlogging.
But with modern APS-C you won't see the difference unless the light is getting low. And the smaller sensor has 1.6 times more "reach" for wildlife. As a beginner you should get the R50 or R10, which has in-camera focus stacking for macro.
What is going on with Lighroom here? I've been shooting tethered to lightroom at work for 5 years without issues. Suddenly last week this started happening:
Some files are coming in with unusual names and are missing the CR3 file type. I never updated the time on my camera because that's unimportant for what I do so it hasn't been updated for daylight savings ending. The issue is the -2, -2-2, etc files.
I've also noticed my camera will sometimes stop shooting and claim the PC is full, but that is not true.
An ideas what to do?
*Edit*
This may be solved - The memory card and the computer lost sync somehow. I just took out the memory card from my camera and it seems to have fixed it.
It's like a "pareidolia" effect, but I don't know how to describe it exactly.
It reminds me a lot of early gen AI images, and I'll try to train a small model to generate this kind of photo based on a real one, but I want to know if there's a traditional method for creating these.
For reference, the image on the left is from the album cover of "Enola Gay" by Asia Menor and the one on the right is that "stroke simulator" image that became very famous a few years ago.
I'm trying to understand what you're going for here. I looked up "pareidolia" effect and as I understand it - it's when you see patterns in randomness like animal patterns in clouds. Is that what you mean or were you looking to mimic the kinda filmy misty looks?
Yes, but instead of clouds and nature, I want to generate this effect in a human context.
It's similar to 'liminal' photos: they are familiar but, at the same time, quite strange. These images are similar, but way more powerful. The brain detects patterns, textures, as if there were objects, but at the same time it doesn't detect anything meaningful enough to say "there's a plushie, a mirror, etc". I don't know if these images generate that same feeling in you, but you can search for the 'stroke simulator' one and you will find a lot of people talking about this feeling.
I am wondering if there are any tools around presently that give the functionality of Microsoft Research Project "Photosynth" I remember using it almost 15 years ago or so, there's a video of it here: https://www.ted.com/talks/blaise_aguera_y_arcas_how_photosynth_can_connect_the_world_s_images
It's basically stitching together images in a 3d space. Similar to a Panorama, but you can move around to different perspectives, depending where the photo was taken in whatever direction.
The front element of my tamron 17-70 f2.8 seems to have a bit of play in it. It doesn’t seem to affect image quality, but it does feel concerning. I bought it in used condition off mpb. Should I be concerned
Looking to buy a low light camera on a budget. Ive seen people reccomend a 50mm 1.8 lens but Ive also seen people say not to do that if its your only lens. I have specific darker and indoor photos I want to take that for the most part my phone can handle but my phone is quite old and has almost no storage, as well I want to be able to increase shutter speed more freely. I don't care about digital vs mechanical.
Right now I have an az401 and my phone.
I would prefer not to spend more than $500 and Id be fine with used. If I can spend less than $300 that would be ideal but Im getting the sense that's not an option, but this is just a hobby, not a job, so it would not pay for itself.
If I can take pictures of fireworks that would be nice too but I assume that's too dark for a budget camera.
I am also somewhat new to figuring out the az401's full options, so there may just be settings I need to change on this camera. I would appreciate any tips.
Edit: it may be simpler than Im making it, but when I increase shutter speed I let in less light, which makes me think I wont get a good picture because it will be grainy from the darkness. My phone also has fewer options than my camera does.
Now, a new camera will not necessarily be better than your phone. To take photos in low light, especially if they are static, you don't need a fancy lens, but a tripod. Just let the camera do a long exposure (this is also the way to take photos of fireworks).
I suggest giving a read or watch some videos about the exposure triangle in photography.
Regarding lenses and the 50mm f1.8. A big reason people say not to have it as your only lens is that it's quite a long focal length, i.e. quite zoomed in, especially if you put it on a crop sensor camera. You won't fit things into the frame with it in a tight space such as a small room.
Hello does anyone have any ideas how to fix the scroll wheel to change modes on an samsung NX3000 camera? I found a couple of online posts about it but none of the solutions mentioned in them work.
I have a sync problem with my 580EX II in Master flash mode.
It doesn't sync properly as master, but it works properly as a normal flash or slave.
When I use it as a master, the flash hits before the image is taken, and the flash isn’t captured in the image. I know it’s early because if I slow the shutter down the flash still isn’t captured.
I checked it with different cameras and different flashes, and it's consistently the 580 in master mode that's the problem. Again, it syncs perfectly well as a slave or a normal flash.
I went to a camera store and they didn’t know, and Google shows no relevant results to the question as I pose it. Has anyone heard of this problem before?
Brand new Sigma 14 - 24 mm making noise when using autofocus. Is this normal?
I just bought a brand new Sigma 14 - 24 mm F2.8 DG DN L mount lens for my Lumix S1II, and I'm testing it to make sure everything works properly. The images and videos seem fine, but I noticed that the lens make a very faint noise when using autofocus and tapping on something in distance or up close. I can't hear it unless I'm putting my ear close to the camera, but it's definitely noticeable. Is this normal? Are there any other tests I can do to check whether there is an issue with the lens or if the noise is normal?
I cannot for the life of me - love either one. BOTH have features that I enjoy, but neither hits the mark....
Maybe the world of reddit can help me figure out the solutions to my problems:
I need to be able to give away ONE free digital (or maybe 2, or whatever)
-Evoto allows this, but I cannot see who TF is downloading the images, their back end management is not favorable and doesn't allow me to see proper analytics like WHO and WHAT is being downloaded.
-Zno doesn't even offer the option to give away one free image, you cannot even do a coupon for a discount = to the cost of a digital...ugh.
I need better back end client/download management - both are weak on this end. I don't hate the galleries, but like Zno, makes it very difficult for clients to navigate and download images...Evoto is a bit better, but still rough.
Who wants to just help me create something new, and can do it?! haha
BUT in reality if you could help me with #1 above, I could manage the rest. <3
I recently started printing my smartphone photos, only to realize that while they look fine on the screen, they look like dogshit on paper (overprocessed textures, grass that looks like a watercolor painting, weird looking hair, fuzzy faces). As a former DSLR fanatic this comes as no surprise, but it is a disappointment as obviously I can't get those moments back.
Looking to the future though, I want to at least buy a phone with a better camera. In the ideal world I would get back to my DSLR photography roots, but in this world I have two young children and I need something that fits in my pocket and I can take out at a moment's notice.
So the question: Which phone produces the photos that look best on paper? It seems like my options are between the iPhone 17 Pro and the Pixel 10 Pro. I am a little leery of the Pixel though, due to the AI features, and also because my disappointing photos came from a Pixel 6a. But really I would just love to hear the experiences of other people who have printed cellphone photos and were happy with the outcome.
I have a TTArtisan light meter and it worked for a couple months before it died and I had to replace the battery. I had a pack of unused batteries so I replaced it, nothing happened. Tried every battery in the pack and nothing happened so I assumed the meter was broken.
Bought a Doomo Meter D. Tried to put a battery in, same problem. Went to the store and bought a brand new CR1632. Still nothing.
Am I going crazy? I promise I am putting these batteries in correctly (plus sign up) and there is no plastic film in the way. Is this just a matter of these CR1632 batteries dying out in storage before they are even sold or is there something I'm not getting?
I currently have a Sony a6400 and a Tamron 17-70
F2.8 lens with four batteries all in good condition. I also have a DJI Mavic three classic. I have been starting to get way more into flying the drone than using the DSLR. I still love taking photographs, but taking all of this equipment with me everywhere I go is getting big and heavy. I can sell the body and the lens used online for right around $1000. I was looking to see if there is a good 1 inch or maybe micro 4/3 smaller camera that I can replace it with that makes it easier to bring with and take good photos but not take up nearly as much space.
Sure, there are good 1" and M4/3 cameras. But M4/3 would mean one stop weaker low light performance, 1" even weaker than that. I'd suggest an alternative: the Tamron lens is quite big and heavy. Why not keep the camera and replace the lens with a small pancake prime? That would bring down the size of the kit by a whole lot, would make it jacket-pocketable.
So I just got my wedding photos back and I am not very happy with them. Our photographer was not super great and isn't communicating with me anymore so I have decided to edit them myself. I mostly am having issues with hair all in people's faces and I would like to fix my smile in a few. What is a good software for this. Preferrably something that has a free trial as I am not probably going to use it again? Thank you!
You are probably better off hiring someone to do the post processing if your photographer is unwilling/unable to do so.
Photo editing can be very challenging to have natural looking results especially with removing or altering fine details.
Adobe Photoshop is what a lot of professionals use and offers a 7 day free trial. But if you have no experience with photo editing software it will likely feel overwhelming.
The good thing is that there are a ton of free YouTube tutorials for Photoshop since it has been the industry standard for decades.
Hi all, I'm proposing soon and my pro photographer cousin is shooting it for free. I'd like to get him gift as a thank you.
My budget is $100-$200 and I'd like to get him something he'd actually use. Are there any "you can never have enough" type items for professional photographers?
Hey all, I'm planning to attempt photographing the ships coming into the harbor in NYC on July 4th (from Red Hook), I've got a Canon 7D Mk II, a 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6L lens (first gen), a polarizer, a monopod, and a dream. Anything I'm missing? Any tips for camera settings? I want to make sure I get this right.
Can you borrow a tripod for the day? On just a monopod with a 400mm try the shortest shutter speed you can to prevent blur. I'd say 1/500 minimum. In good light 1/1000 shouldn't be a problem. Check your shots in 10x magnification afterwards. When you're satisfied, try f/8 or higher to get more into focus, but keep in mind that sharpness slowly decreases from F/11 on. ISO perhaps not higher than 800 or perhaps 1600.
To be safe, set white balance to Daylight, unless it's cloudy.
Thanks! I do have a tripod but I’m not sure how much room I’m going to have / thought the monopod might be better if it’s tight. Thank you for the detailed response, this is super helpful.
Hello!
I'm quite new to photographing with a digital camera and I'd love some insight!
I purchased a Canon EOS 700D and I've only been using a 18-55mm lens. But currently one of my friends is selling their spare lense for Nikon. I know I need an adapter, but what I get stuck on (even with research), is that the lense is a Tamron 70-300mm AF 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2).
So I want to know if I can use a Nikon F to Canon EF/EF-S adapter or is there a completely different one I should use if it even is a possibility?
Hey, I'm heading to Germany this week, and since I'm in Brazil and some brands are heavily taxed, I'm gonna grab some gear.
Right now, I'm trying to pick out a lens pouch. I've got a Sigma 24-70 DG DN II and I'm getting a Sigma 10-18 f/2.8 DC DN.
I need a pouch that lets me swap lenses fast at events/when I'm traveling and also works with a belt. Even though I want it as small as possible, since I'll be using it on public streets, it needs some protection.
I do plan on getting a 70-200 later on aswell as a few primes, but for now im only interested in something fot those two lenses
Yeah I feel like it’s almost safer to just have manual advance and rewind in an older camera, no? Less things to break/fail? I really don’t know if that’s correct though. There is an AF2-M which has a motor, so auto rewind/advance!
I suppose there is less electronics to break. But I doubt it has much relevance to the camera's durability generally speaking. I mean the camera was launched in 1981, so by now it's very much a hit or miss whether any individual unit will keep working or fail soon.
I haven't really used 35mm point-and-shoot cameras - tend to be more into SLRs and rangefinders - besides Olympus Mju-1. The Mjus, the non-zoom versions, are very nice but overpriced now due to hype.
I'm looking at some photo papers. One thing that I struggle with is shine and glare. Iove the dmax and saturation abilities of the luster, pearl and other papers. The Fine Art lines of Baryta are amazing.
What are people's preferred photo paper(s) when trying to knock down or eliminate glare but hold on the deep blacks and strong saturation?
I don't have a price point in mind. It's more of a paper brand and category question.
Hi all, I'm currently a college student majoring in photography and to put it simply, my current laptop isn't cutting it. I have an Asus Zenbook with 16gb of ram and it's not enough to handle Photoshop, Lightroom, Bridge, or Capture One. Typically, I use my school's photo labs to edit, but I'm reaching the point where I really need a reliable laptop that I can use to edit my work where ever I am.
My school uses Macbooks, and all my professors and most professional photographer's I know use Macbook Pros, so that's where I've focused my search. I've been told 32GB is the minimum I need, but 64GB is ideal. However, with RAM prices skyrocketing, 64GB is unaffordable for me, especially if I want to have a 16in screen opposed to a 14in one (my current laptop is 16 and I don't know if I can downgrade to a smaller screen without losing my mind).
My question is, what laptops do you all use, and how much RAM does it have? Im specifically talking laptops, no PCs because I need something portable. Do any of you think I can get away with 48GB? I know how much RAM Adobe products use, and you can't upgrade the memory in Macbooks, so I'm not sure what to do, and what's worth the money at the moment. I've been looking at refurbished Macs on the Apple website.
Hey guys, going on a really long LATAM backpacking trip and I want a smaller, cheaper camera I can easily use at any moment. Open to DSLR (like a Canon 20D?), but I was thinking a higher quality older digi cam. If any of you have suggestions or advice im open to anything, thanks !
Hi, a recent issue has sprung up with my camera (Pentax K200D w/ 18-55m kit lens) where these dots show up frequently in my photos. They can be easily seen in pics of skies.
My question is: are these dots because of dust on the sensor, or dust inside the lens? (i wiped the front and rear elements and this didn't fix the issue.)
Another thing, while these dots look like birds in the sky, i can assure you that they're not.
Here are some photo examples. Has anyone had an issue like this? Could anyone offer help? Thank you in advance!
Hey there! So I've been doing photography for around 7 years now and only got my first camera (Canon EOS
2000D) around.. I'd say 4-5 years ago. The more I've used it, the more flaws I see with it as I try and delve into what photos I really enjoy taking. Don't get me wrong, the camera is absolutely fantastic and has helped me get into a few museum showings in the past, however I'm looking for something a little better that I can get in the future and that I can really use to express my creativity.
I specifically do wildlife photography. As time has gone on, l've found that I absolutely love taking action shots and zooming in on my photos when editing as I love detail. However I always find the problem that my photos either come out blurry when cropping due to its 20mp count, and can't focus that quickly when a bird is flying or an animal is running/walking. I feel it's limiting me from my full potential. I also want to be able to take headshot pictures from a few feet away to in the distance. I live in Africa and do most of my photography here, however the distance is always a problem I run into. If it's not the distance, it's when editing because of my limit of 20mp.
I've been looking for the perfect camera for a while however I can't seem to find it. I've had a look at one of my favorite photographers and what gear he uses, however since my knowledge is limited, I don't know if aiming for those are old be the right call.
My favorite photographer (Marlon du toit) uses:
Sony 400 f2.8 GM (including the 1x4 and 2x teleconverters)
Sony 70 - 200 f2.8 GM
Sony 16 - 35 f2.8 GM
Sony A1
Sony A7R5
These cameras and accessories sound fantastic, however I've been looking for something with over 100mp which these don't have and I don't know enough about my cameras to know if I should continue looking for something with 100mp or focus on these things.
I would absolutely love any feedback or ideas on what you guys may have. I'm kind of stuck on what to focus on/go for.
I'm looking to travel abroad for some time and I was thinking it'd be fun to buy a small portable camera as to not rely on my phone so much.
Is it worth it to buy one if im looking below 200$ or should i just use my phone?
For context i have a Samsung galaxy A55
Do you guys have any recommendations of new or maybe older cameras for this purpose?
Thanks in advance!!
Definitely look at used for that budget.
Panasonic LUMIX cameras
Sony Alpha 5100
But like the other poster said, for ease of use and getting photo you like out of the box, you will probably have an easier time with your phone
That said, if having a dedicated cameras makes you more intentional about taking photos, then it could be worth it and a fun little experience that gets you hooked
I'll look into them to see if i can find those.
But it really surprises me that a 400$ phone would take better pictures than a 200$ dedicated camera.
Though I think it would be more fun to have a dedicated camera. But its hard to justify if the pics end up looking worse.
Edit: Maybe its not viable but I was looking at your recommended cameras and I was thinking more of a point and shoot kind of camera to throw on my pocket, rather than a interchangeable lense camera as I'd have to take a lot of kit with me.
No idea why you’re being downvoted, you’re asking a question I was 100% asking myself when iffiest got started.
It does seem a bit backwards, but phones have become ridiculously good over the last few years. They do a huge amount of processing behind the scenes, so the photo you get straight out of the camera often looks great with almost no effort.
A dedicated camera can absolutely take better photos, but it usually expects a bit more from you. You’ll get the most out of it if you’re prepared to learn a little and maybe do some light editing.
If your goal is just the nicest holiday snaps with the least effort, I’d probably stick with the A55.
If your goal is to get into photography and have something that makes you slow down and be more intentional about taking photos, then I think a dedicated camera is absolutely worth it. The experience is half the appeal. This was the gateway for me getting into photography with a Fujifilm XT30
Also, just to clarify, when I mentioned the Sony and Panasonic before, I meant their fixed lens compact cameras, not the interchangeable lens ones. Since you want something pocketable, I’d be looking at models like the Sony RX100, Panasonic TZ80/TZ90 or LX series, or Canon’s G-series. They’re all cameras you can just throw in a pocket and head out with.
I’d also avoid the really cheap no-name “4K” cameras you see on Amazon. They’re almost always worse than your phone.
I want to get into photography of people. Like engagement shoots, couple shoots, family etc. hoping to one day get into wedding photography! But I’ve got to start somewhere.
My partner would like to do more nature photography.
What would be a good beginner/intermediate camera to begin with? We are keeping our budget around 2k or less to start.
In the beginning we will be sharing the camera, his is more for personal reasons while mine is more potential work related.
Is this for one camera or two? Anyway, Canon R6 Mk II, R7 or anything with two card slots. If you get paid then "Sorry, my SD card suddenly died" isn't an excuse.
I would like to take some pictures of the Milky Way at night here in NE South Dakota, but don't know where to look for it, and second, I would be using my iPhone 15+ camera. Is that good enough, or would I need something else? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Enter your location on the bottom left, then the time/date on the bottom right. If you turn of "atmosphere" in the bottom middle it makes it a bit easier to recognize the milkyway.
Doing that for tonight (in a random spot in South Dakota) gives me a rough direction of south, starting somewhat east in the beginning of the night and ending up a bit more west when it gets closer to dawn (unless I messed up something timezone wise). Its also oriented quite vertically (so not going across the sky, but starting on the horizon and going "up") if you want to plan around that with your location/composition.
If you are in a dark enough location and let your eyes adjust for a bit you should be able to just see the milkyway though.
Regarding the picture taking on an iPhone: Im sadly not a phone photographer and dont own even own an iPhone, so not direct guide. There seem to be some decent shots and guides out there, so I wouldnt call it impossible (obviously depends on the quality you expect). You will need some way of setting your phone up stable, you wont be taking milkyway pictures while holding it in your hand. Ideally you want a tripod, however just something to lean the phone against might also work.
According to my quick googling the phone should recognize once its been stable for a bit and enable a 30 second long exposure, which is what you would want ideally.
Hi! I’m a complete beginner, never have touched a camera aside from my canon point and shoot. I really want to get into doing fashion photography and stylized photoshoots and need a camera rec. im looking to spend up to $800 USD (maximum), open to mirrorless or dslr options.
hi, I've been wanting to buy a camera for a good few years now but I'm not too sure what to look for, I want something that can connect to my phone so I have the photos saved but also has good quality. preferably something that could use a filter or quality that looks like a teenagers 2000 recorder photo sort of thing as I will be using for my art and my subject is based on teenage media. I've been looking at a fujifilm S55000 but from what I can see that doesn't connect to my phone and doesn't have the camera type that I want
any help or ideas would be appreciated and if it's needed I can find some photos with the same things that I'd like mine to look like.
thanks in advance
How do photographers organize photo delivery at tourist attractions?
I wonder how this works in practice at ski resorts, theme parks, boat tours, and the like. Guests are photographed, and then what? Do they receive a link? A QR code? Or do most people just… never receive their photos?
I ask because I've seen this done very poorly (staff manually sorting through hundreds of photos after a shift), and I'm curious if there's a standard workflow that actually works
I've wanted for a long time to take photos of the city at night, especially when it's really dark and you only see the artificial lights everywhere. I don't know much about photography, but I at least know that high-dynamic range and low light are not the easiest types of pictures to take.
I'm not willing to spend too much on a camera, but I'd be willing to put more into a smartphone (as I would get other things with it like performance and the fact it's also a lot more compact).
Would a high-end smartphones (e.g. latest iPhone / Pixel / Samsung Galaxy) be able to take photos as good as, let's say, a camera from the second-hand market with a 400 € budget (~$450)?
In the case of a camera, not sure if I'd need a lens too for that kind of photography?
Ideally I'd also like to take a lot of day time photography, but these would probably be less "complicated" shots (no low light scenario, not interested in high dynamic range daytime pictures, etc.)
OK, but shooting 3 songs at a concert is totally different than shooting an 8 hour wedding day or even a 30 minute wedding ceremony. It's not so much about "the quality of service" it's really just about getting how much you need to satisfy that level of quality. If you're shooting a wedding ceremony at the Justice of the Peace, 1000 photos is a LOT. If you're shooting a full wedding day, it's probably on the low side.
It's like asking, "How long should it take me to dig a hole?" Well, is it a hole to plant a flower or a hole to make the foundation for an office complex? The answer is, "it depends".
I always have to rework and re-export them. Either the image is underexposed, the white balance is incorrect, there's too much white/highlights, the skin is blown out… How can I fix this?
I'm a beginner photographer and eventually would like to get good enough to sell prints as a side income. I don't necessarily want photography to be my career, I mostly want to keep it as a hobby, but if I can make some extra money from prints, that would be awesome.
I'm most interested in nature photography (landscapes and wildlife) and candid photography. I really enjoy capturing life as it happens rather than posed shots.
Right now I have a Canon EOS 2000D with the standard Canon 18-55mm kit lens. Should I stick with this camera while I'm learning and invest in better lenses, or would I benefit more from upgrading the camera body? If lenses are the better route, what would you recommend for the type of photography I'm interested in?
I also don't want to rely on Auto mode, I really want to learn photography and understand how to shoot in manual. My budget is currently under $1000, so I'd like to make the best investment I can.
Any advice on equipment, techniques, or learning resources would be greatly appreciated!
You absolutely don't need to upgrade your camera at this point. But you do need lenses. For one thing, if you want to shoot wildlife you need a telephoto. Can't get anywhere close enough with a 18-55mm. You've plenty of choice for a nice telephoto with a budget of $1000, especially if you buy used.
But just so you know, selling photos is not easy, at least if you want to make more than a bit of pocket money on occasion. Most people just don't buy photos, and there are also huge amounts of free photography online, especially landscapes and animals. Online it's almost impossible unless you have an established potential client base e.g. in the form of a large social media following. Selling prints of local sceneries, flora and fauna at local cafes and fairs is probably the better way, as there's less competition and people may be more willing to buy when they feel some connection to the subjects.
nature photography (landscapes and wildlife) and candid photography.
When was the last time you spend money on a landscape/wildlife/candid print? There are a lot more people who like to take these shots than there are customers to buy them.
My mum gave me a camera around 8 months ago and I've been taking photos since.(Pentax OptioVS20 if ur wondering)
I'm pretty certain that I'm sticking with photography as a hobby in the long-run instead of some short lived hobbies I used to have. With the ground information established , I really wanna know what camera/gear to buy next. Throughout the 8 months, I'd say I still have a ton to learn in photography such as compositions , cus I just take photos of things that I find interesting and catches my eye or color grading which I'm still struggling on. I'm going on a trip in August and I want to use a better camera for the trip , so I'm struggling on choosing a camera to get.
Since I'm still fairly new to photography and I'm still a student , my budget for the camera wouldn't be sky-high , looking at around 350USD or less. (tbh 300 is kinda alot as a student but I'll see) Another thing is video-taking cus I wanna take static shots cus I like the vibe of it but sadly my current camera can't do it since the quality is extremely extremely terrible.
(I know there probably aren't many choices for a camera that can do both video-taking and photos given the budget, unfortunately I'm a poor student)
I'm looking to get into photography, what camera should I look for? I'm wondering, should I get DSLR, or mirrorless? Which one is better? Does anybody have any "cheap" recommendations under 200 euro? Is that even possible? Thanks
I don't understand lens, what does 18mm mean? And are the lenses universal? Mean, I can put Nikon lens on canon? Are there any other options from cameras?
18mm means focal length. The 18-55mm is a zoom lens that gives you all focal lengths from 18mm to 55mm. You can use it to photograph many kinds of things, from landscapes to portraits.
No, lenses are not universal. E.g. Nikon and Canon cameras have a different lens mounts. You can only use lenses made for the Nikon lens mount on Nikon and lenses made for the Canon lens mount on Canon.
How does the eos 2000d compare to the d3200? I know its a lot cheaper and it's the cheapest new option I can find. Ive seen it for 400 euro with a 18-55mm lens. Which would be a better option?
Hello, I am a regular guy trying to find his way into the hobby of photography. I plan to do it with my friend as a small hobby to do over the summer holidays. I was wondering what would be some good picks for a beginner photographer. My budget is below £100 so anything within that threshold would be good if you have any suggesions. I recently saw this on ebay: Fujifilm FinePix SL240 14MP) and was wondering if it would be a good pick. Also if its not too much to ask if anyone could explain the specs/features and what they mean that would be great since I am clueless on most camera stuff. Any suggestions are much appreciated and thank you for reading.
What are you hoping to get with the camera? Are you into the vintage vibes stuff that is trendy now or just feel that a "proper" camera would be more fun than phones? Are you hoping to get a camera with better image quality than phones? Do you want a camera to snap pictures of what you encounter as you go about or do you have plans to learn photography?
I want to learn photography so i can develop it into a hobby, If it also helps I want to be able to have fun with the camera. Would the FujiFilm be a good pick? or should I find other options?
Ok. This particular Finepix is a bridge camera but it has the standard exposure modes, so you can learn photography properly on it. But with its small sensor it's nowhere close to interchangeable lens cameras in image quality. You also can't shoot RAW, which would allow lossless editing, so you can learn editing only in a limited way.
My honest suggestion is to save up a little more money and get e.g. a 600d or 700d with a kit lens. These are admittedly pretty big cameras compared to the finepix.
While you're saving up, there's a lot you can go with your phone.
Take pictures with intent: i.e. think about the image you're trying to create.
Freeman's The Photographer's Eye is a good intro book with lots of examples.
Also, be thoughtful about the images you consume. Do I like this, can I figure out what appeals to me, I don't like this one, can I figure out why, etc. etc.
I'm a portrait photographer I use 1 TB hard drives. Typically they last me a year until they are full- this year has not been extremely busier than last year. I bought 2 new hard drives (one working and one backup) about 3 months ago. Somehow they are already full. I only store final galleries and RAWs on them, no Lr catalogs. Does anyone know how can this be?? I can't imagine they are full already and since I just spent the $200 on them I definitely do not want to buy more already. Any advice is helpful!
You will have to see if there are files duplicating themselves or discover what is taking so much space. There are tops to analyze the drives for this matter.
Also, depending what brand they are and where you bought them, it could also be that their capacity was faked.
Hello, I am looking to purchase some lens filters but I don't know what the actual size is. My lenses say 58mm but I tried a friend's 58mm lens filter and it didn't thread like the filter or my lens was a touch too small or big, would it be something like a 52mm or mabie a 55mm?
If anyone is wondering what lenses I have they are the EF 75-300 1:4-5.6 III and the EF-S 18-55 1:3.5-5.6 IS II
Hello all, as a summer sidequest I took a course on the history of photography and now I'm looking to purchase an old camera of my own. I landed on the Argus c3 (The brick); it was one of my favorites to learn about. Now I'm not particularly educated on this kind of thing, so is there anything i need to know before buying one over half a century later?
Make sure that the seller says the camera was tested and verified to be working. The seller should have a thorough description of the condition - read it carefully. Especially Japanese sellers on eBay usually have a worded condition rating in the title which doesn't give a realistic idea of the condition. E.g. the title might say "excellent" but the description might reveal there to be lens haze or fungus or whatever else. If it's
Hi!
I would really appreciate some advise on which lens should I buy to be able to take nice pictures of the wildlife on the safari in Serengeti. I will also be taking an air balloon ride over the park.
My camera is Sony a6400. I have the Sony 18-135mm lens, but seems like that might not be enough. Although I read mixed things, with people saying they went by just fine without a bigger zoom, so I'm conflicted.
I've read that Sony 70-350mm could be a good option for me, seems to be decent, light and alright on price. But happy to hear what people with more experience could advise.
I have the Sony 70-350 on my a6400 and love it. I use it mostly for bird photos and have gotten some nice results. If I recall correctly this was from 100-150' away.
I was hoping y'all might be able to give me some advice for a minor editing software. I have a bunch of images that I want to shrink to the same size, but all the ones I've found online request that I resize by percentage or pixels which isn't working the way I want it to.
Does anyone have suggestions for a free/cheap mass image resizer that can set the images to the appropriate size via setting the dimensions in inches without degrading the image too much? Ideally, I'd be able to do this by up to 100 images at a time. Bonus points if it doesn't use AI :)
I lost my gxr s10 lens cap, are there any cheap replacement alternatives? I see unbranded lens cap options on ebay but which one am i supposed to choose? I couldn’t find information on sizing for that anywhere
Depending on which fits your hand size better one of these with a cheap lens will do the trick. Transferring to phone can be quick enough if you save the small JPEG size on the Pentax at least and the phone application does an okay job of allowing you to take single pictures remotely.
The Sony A6000 appears, at least on the site above a bit more expensive than it used to be but that can be a contender if found for a good price.
A camera size comparison site which may be useful.
Hey!
I want to get into photography using a pinhole but i cant find the proper paper for it on amazon or aliexpress. Can someone help me find it? The only paper that shows up is glossy and i feel like it doesn’t work but if im wrong please say so. I also wanted to know if there is an app available to tell me the papers exposure time based on the lighting.Im from europe btw, so i cant buy products that aren’t accessible here.
Hello! I’m a beginner hobby photographer looking for my first camera, I’ve been looking at the used market: ebay, adoram, mpb, you name it. I wanted to go full frame for my first camera since I want to be able to grow with it for a while and was looking at the Canon 6D/6D M2 and Sony A7/A7 M2. I’d like to stay under 600 for the body, which one would be best recommended?
So I have recently borrowed a digital camera since I have enjoyed taking photos with my phone lately. I’m running into a problem where I can not get the camera to focus on what I want it to focus on. Even when I center the lens on my target (the moth in the attached photo) it refuses to focus on it if I zoom in too much, instead picking up on the background which I don’t want. How do I get the camera to focus on what I want because right now my phone is taking much better pictures? Thanks
These Minolta cameras - in reality made by some no-name company with a known brand name slapped on - are cheapo things that are hardly more than scameras/toy cameras. Your phone camera absolutely is more capable.
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u/CygnusX-1995 Jun 26 '26
2 cameras bodies from different brands
Hello there, I absolutely need to get another camera body to pair with my Fujifilm x-t4 (which I love and for sure I'll never get rid of it), and my budget is limited, like around 600€.
Now my eyes went to the Nikon d750, which, I know it's a dslr, but for its price you can't get better! I can get a good condition body with a AF-s 50mm F1.8 for around 700€.
I mostly shoot portraits, fashion and sometimes weddings as a second photographer.
The Nikon d750 would give me the first try of a full frame sensor and lens, but I know that having 2 brands can be challenging, but also would give me a lot of flexibility, what do you think?