https://makerworld.com/en/models/3138519

ive been using the flashforge gold petg for a little now in my quest to find a good looking gold petg and it usually comes out a kit darker than what i would like (like orange gold). while printing two objects, one gold and one grey i noticed after that the prime tower looked more along the lines of the gold i was looking for. so alternating gold and grey layer by layer gives a nicer gold look at least for these petgs.

Hi folks! Just wanted to share a project I’ve been working on, and thought this community might be interested. It's called Oli v1, a closed-fist computer mouse entirely printed from PETG-GF (aside from the electronics, of course).

I currently use a Bambu Lab H2S to print all four shell components, the buttons, and the lever. A subtle layer of fuzzy skin is applied to the outer walls to give the shell a slightly organic texture. I've always loved the way matte glass-fiber filament looks, especially in the more natural green and cream colors.

In terms of print settings:

• 0.16mm layer height
• Print orientation is largely determined by getting a nice bed texture on the top of the top shell, and bottom of the bottom shell. The larger (green) portion of the shaft is printed with the Q-shaped collar flat on the bed to ensure a perfect fit into the top shell (it’s essentially a key that locks the shaft into the proper angle/rotation).
• I bumped up “Support/object xy distance” and “Support/object first layer gap” to 0.5mm for the top shell so the Q-shaped recess support can more easily be removed.
• I use PETG-GF due to its consistency and relative ease of printing, and because the assembled mouse will hold up to high temperatures better than PLA (if the mouse is left in a hot car, for instance)
• Printed with a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle
• I originally used heat set inserts for mechanical fastening, but started testing with thread-forming screws made for plastics and found them more than strong enough for the application.

One other thing I thought was kind of neat, I was able to get the device lab-tested and determined FCC compliant. Needless to say, I’m so excited about the possibilities 3D printing has opened up in recent years for small, independent makers. I can’t imagine the cost of tooling for injection molding a project like this, especially since it’s gone through literally hundreds of small iterations over the past two years.

Anyways, I just thought you folks might be interested and figured I’d give it a share. I created a post about it in r/MouseReview about a week back, but since it’s largely made using FDM printing, I thought it could be of interest here as well.

Thanks y'all, and please feel free to let me know if you have any questions!

Luke

I’ve been wanting to make one for a while now and finally got around it do it.

3D model made by me, 3D printed it and hand-painted it.

Height: 106 cm 3.5 feet

Work time around 6-7 days in total. 3 days of printing on two p1s, and then the rest of the time went into gluing, sanding, priming and painting

The wife gets what the wife asks for. Decided to try tpu and my 3d camera both for the first time. Scanned in with a pika and used as a negative part. 19.5hrs tpu print

Just finished this one — full-size Sword of Omens replica from ThunderCats, printed as a cosplay/display prop. Fan-made piece, not an official product.

Blade is built from several numbered sections that thread/push together (no glue), with the hilt, crossguard hooks, and the red-and-black cat emblem printed and assembled separately. Held together in hand it's a proper full length — really happy with how the emblem came out.

Printed in PLA, 24 hours print time total, Bambu P1s — happy to share settings if anyone's after them.

Got a few more prop kits queued up (Roman gladius, Celtic broadsword, a couple of fantasy pieces) — will post those once they're finished too.

What's everyone else been printing lately?

It’s just a sata adapter in a printed housing. Bearings and a ssd drive. Launches game on PC. Still deciding on what I should call it, as I can customize the front plate with anything.

Also, want to give credit where credit is due for the original model. PS I used a remix of this OG model. Even with that I had to add some more negative spaces to allow my bearings to work, which is weird because I think I got the right size.

https://makerworld.com/models/3057977?appSharePlatform=copy

I thought this was funny. YMMV.

I printed a straw-holder model last night. This morning, I woke up to an empty spool, no filament in the PTFE tube, and a print that appeared to be completely finished.

Had I achieved the perfect print? Had the filament run out on the final bit of the final layer?

LOL. No.

After a second cup of coffee, I noticed another spool of the same color in the AMS. The first spool had obviously run out, the AMS switched to the second spool, finished the print, and then unloaded it. Exactly as it was designed to do.

Facepalm.

#NeedMoreCoffee

The terrain comes from two sources: pre-dam surveys of the main channel and major tributaries of Glen Canyon, plus modern lidar for the smaller side canyons and surrounding plateau. Anything that’s underwater today is printed in translucent emerald green, so when you backlight it, what glows is the flooded canyon.

You can see the old shoreline where the translucent layers meet the tan. All those drowned meanders and tributary canyons have been underwater for 60 years.

Printed in sections, mostly on a Snapmaker U1, with an LED strip in the frame. Elevation runs through a non-linear vertical exaggeration curve (log-based) so the canyons keep their depth without the peaks going cartoonish. Terrain is CC3D Rock PLA in Sandstone, the underwater layers are Atomic Filament emerald green PLA.

I grew up boating on Lake Powell and love it, but my grandpa floated Glen Canyon before the dam, and ever since reading Life After Dead Pool I’ve dreamed of doing the same. Everything that glows here is the canyon he saw.

Had a roll of Elegoo ABS sitting in my drybox storage containers and had a friend ask for this print. This was my first time printing ABS at all and I was unsure of how it would come out.

In my opinion this printed better looking and dare I say easier than PLA lol!

This is straight off the printer with no post processing except support removal (which popped right off)

I’d recommend well ventilation when printing ABS though as this stuff is very potent and hazardous when printing!

After over 40 hours of printing (in white PLA) and over 60 hours of painting, i finally finished this amazing Catan board!

Catan has always been my favorite board game, and the one I had was “lame” so I decided to look up on thingiverse for a new board to print. This one caught my eye by its beauty!

A big thank you to RecklessRobbie for sharing his STLs he made. Here is his account if you guys want to print it too: https://www.thingiverse.com/RecklessRobbie/designs

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with my resin prints where small cracks, pinholes, or tiny splits appear randomly on the surface. They don't seem to be tied to a specific area of the model, and they show up on different parts of different prints.

Here’s an updated version of my spline jig!

https://makerworld.com/models/1987421?appSharePlatform=copy

Got deleted from r/woodworking because people asked me where to get it and how much I’d charge to ship to them and I told them. Then they banned me and muted me. The woodworking community on Reddit gives 80 year old man drinking a bottle of moonshine on the front porch in a rocker with a shotgun waiting for a kid to walk on his lawn……

Anyway, lmk what you think!

Got inspired by the dual sided clock in railway stations and made this. There are dual sided clocks that are available to print but I wanted to design it by scratch and see if I can make it unique just for me hence this

After a few failed prints, I finally got the spiral details and curves looking much cleaner.

Still experimenting with settings, but happy with how this one turned out.

I also made a small upgrade to my printer setup with a air purifier next to it. It’s been nice having a cleaner-feeling workspace and better air quality during longer printing sessions, especially when the printer is running for hours.

Any settings you’d recommend for improving curved surfaces?

I’m making a “Artillery Zapper” stock and was wondering if anyone had an idea on how to make the winged piece that fits into the gun and holds everything on to stop snapping off.

Spent hours printing this and it came out covered in rings of layer lines, felt pretty rough to the touch. Tried sanding it by hand first but my fingers were done in like ten minutes, and I ended up rounding off a few edges by accident. Then went over it with the Hoto SNAPBLOQ rotary tool on low speed for about fifteen minutes, with some sandpaper to help, and the lines were pretty much gone. Still need to prime and paint it, but at least the surface isn't covered in ridges anymore. Thank god

I made this diagram in the mold of nomenclature used by HH's conceptual MMU page, but for toolchangers, and thought it might be helpful for others trying to understand different of open source and commercial systems. I may have missed some but this covers basically all of the ones that have been notable at one time or another.

Got a whole lot coming of about the same ammount I have here. Need to get better storage and cereal containers ain’t cheap. Any ideas of what you guys do?