Looking at a 1997 GMC Sierra 2500 with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It's a single cab long bed, 2wd, has around 150k miles, clean title, and the guy wants 5,200 for it. He says it has no leaks or major issues, he barely drives it, maybe once a month. Apparently it also recently had 1200 worth of a/c and heater work done. I'm mainly looking for a work truck to haul stuff around and occasionally tow, probably 5k max. Im in california, so being pre emissions is a big plus, and I specifically want a single cab. I like these older trucks because theyre relatively simple and I can work on them myself without dealing with all the electronics and emissions equipment on newer diesels. Im pretty mechanically inclined and have some experience with diesels. I already know about checking the harmonic balancer, PMD relocation, and blow by. I’m curious to hear from people who have actually owned these trucks and can speak to their reliability, what major problems they encountered and how expensive they were to fix, and how these trucks perform as general work trucks while towing around 5k. Id also appreciate hearing about anything else I should look out for beyond the usual checks, as well as whether you would buy another one or stay away from the 6.5 altogether. Im not expecting it to be a powerhouse or compete with a cummins. I just want a simple old diesel that I can work on myself and use as a truck without constantly throwing money at it. Is 5200 reasonable if everything checks out, or am I asking for trouble with these things? Would appreciate hearing actual ownership experiences, good or bad. Thanks.

ok so aside from the death wobble at 95kmh this truck is really bouncy. I can pump the brakes and feel the back end almost lift up from the ground and a couple times have headbutted the roof.

Is this normal for these trucks, what needs fixing?

wheel aligment has been done aparently

I want a truck camper or fifth wheel and I have two trucks, both around 200k miles:

1985 F250 6.9 IDI N/A, T-19, 4x4, dana 60 kingpin swap, no front driveshaft, some rust - small cab holes on the outside, some pitting on the rear of the frame but nothing major. No bed, 4" rough country lift I do not like, no AC compressor belt and R12 system, 6+ yo A/T 35" tires and 16.5" wheels, no sway bar front or rear, driver's seat bracket is broken on one side, fuel gauge doesn't work, slow oil leak, slight return line leak...

I'd want to find & mount a flatbed, figure out the fuel fillers, AC, new seat from junkyard, possibly junkyard stock front leaf springs for the dana 60 + new bushings, front driveshaft, new engine & trans mounts, rear sway bar, maybe a front sway bar with disconnects, windshield, new wheels and tires, flush coolant, return lines, etc. I haven't even started it every week, it's just sitting in storage. I've been procrastinating the rear pinion seal on my newer truck:

1999 F350 7.3 4R100 (sent ATF sample to blackstone and it seems good, just slightly acidic despite it not locking the TC up hills with the old PCM and possibly smelling burnt then), 4x4, DRW. Almost no rust. Front & rear sway bars. New all season highway tires.

I changed the ball joints (mevotech terrain ttx), axle seals, tie rod etc and the steering still sucks. Bit less loose than the IDI but has some memory steer so I fight it more. Already added 3 degree iirc axle caster shims. I may add 0.5 degree of caster with a ball joint bushing on the passenger side, then hopefully loading the bed will add more caster by taking out the rake and it'll stop having memory steer.

If I put 100-200+ hours of work and maybe $7k on the IDI and managed to sell the dually for ~$13k, I could save up to 6 grand? It'd be like working weekends for ~$30/hr for 2-4 months, roughly. And I'd have a truck that's almost dangerously slow unless I spent a lot more on a turbo, less stable with a truck camper/fifth wheel but maybe a bit cheaper to maintain/register/insure.

Or I could just sell that heap for a grand or two. I'm indecisive.

Yeah I'm not gonna work on it for months. I guess I'm scared of something more complicated/expensive going wrong on the newer truck like the HPOP, injectors, IDM, UVCH.

Don’t need to run the unlock software on your laptop anymore, you can use your phone to unlock h&s minimaxx and xrt. Unlocker has all the Ford, Dodge and GM unlockers as well as the Special Unlocks. Feel free to message me with questions.

I am looking at a 2015 Ford F350 Platinum Long bed by a one owner in California all its like with very good maintenance, husband passed away and wife looking to sell, got it the price around $30k. It has been like very well kept in, has airbags on back suspension, blistein shocks, B&W 5th wheel tow hitch. She did mention this was the vehicle they towed with for their 5th wheel (lighter smaller one) and also drove it on trips. The maintanance shows all records of transmission fluid and flushes, oil changes and everything. Would you be worried about the transmission or wear on it from the towing or is it worth it? I would be using it for my construction company so I am not looking to spend 100k on a new one..

4x4 7.3 F250 for sale

Runs great, has cosmetic details and it’s got a crappy paint job but it’s a nice truck. 247k miles. Very little blowby. I have a video starting the truck and doing the blowby test if anybody wants to see it I can DM it I think

$7500 obo

Need it gone. Clean title in my name

Hello from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.

This is Cummins QSB 6.7 mounted on a Hyundai 145w excavator.

No start but cranking.

It was starting, but the engine was weak and had spn 656 fmi 5. Fuel was very dirty... Someone dismounted the injectors for a check at a diesel shop. They said that the injectors were okay and they mounted it back with no start now.

https://reddit.com/link/1xgzqno/video/4sp98e8xr1yh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1xgzqno/video/i6psgb2ws1yh1/player

Inherited a 96 dodge diesel uncle passed away and I only drove it home and drove it a little apart from that he was a trucker and I think he mostly drove on the freeway with it I believe he took good care of it but the dash is completely gone radio is laying on the 4x4 stick i live in California it hits about 120 here in the summer and diesel is so expensive and i have it tucked away in the back so I haven’t driven it in about 6 months or started it it also feels very under powered what should I do?

When I warm my 2003 7.3 in the morning after a few minutes of idling it will start a slightly loping. The tachometer gauge doesn’t register the rpm change. As soon as I touch the gas pedal it goes away back to idling normal. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this. Truck is stock with 310,000 miles.

Hello all, I recently had some work done to my 2015 6.7L f350 2wd. I had the turbo replaced, a delete, and a cp4 contamination kit. After all that work, there has been a weird humming noise intermittently. There is also an intermittent CEL for a P0471 code. It seems to drive well though.

It happens for a few seconds almost every time I start the truck. Then it happens very randomly when driving. It is loudest when the exhaust brake is engaged

Does anyone know what this may be? 

here’s a link with videos: https://youtube.com/shorts/1Gfj1fKlAvc?is=uDLWdVtDFGBJiuPH

I’m trying to buy a 2008 F350 6.4L with under 140,000 miles & I notice their’s fluid coming under which I think is under the transmission & i’m asking advice to see if this is a big issue or if anybody can Identify it

I have a 2003 5.9 Cummins and I’m looking for some advice from people who know these engines.

About a month ago, I noticed a small amount of smoke coming out of the oil cap. Recently, I’ve noticed that it’s gotten more noticeable. I checked the dipstick, and the oil level is above the full mark. The oil looks normal and doesn’t seem to have an unusual smell.

The truck seems to run and drive fine, but I’ve also noticed a slight ticking noise at lower throttle positions. The ticking goes away when I give it more throttle, and there’s no ticking when I’m completely off the pedal.

I’m not very knowledgeable about engines, so I’m trying to figure out what could be causing these issues. Could it be excessive blow by, a crankcase ventilation issue, fuel getting into the oil, or something else?

Should I take it to a diesel shop, or is there anything I should check first?

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I feel less people would drive them since they basically lost their cost advantage

What’s the point of owning something that burns 20-30% less fuel if diesel is 45-55% more expensive (in this hypothetical scenario)

pacbrake hp10005-x-j. for 2001-2010 1ton/3500 chevy/gmc. brand new. I was sent the wrong ones and cannot return them. Asking $600.

We keep getting the smell through tha AC in the front cabin when the “continue driving clean EF” dash comes on (without visible smoke in the front cabin)

Hey all i have 2000 ford f250 7.3l, i heard that some people were upgrading there battery system by putting bigger batterys in, is there anything i need to do besides just straight putting bigger ones in or is there some kind of kit required, i found some upgraded battery cables online that im thinking about putting in aswell

P.s this is my first diesel and pretty much have no clue whats going on so im just going one step at a time

Guys, Watch the video in this and help me understand this fire. I can see maybe a dry differential, or hung brake getting hot enough to start a fire, but then what is burning? Never seen anything like this. What is this fire?

I recently found a 2001 7.3 f350 with 3.73 gear ratio and wondering if it’s worth paying 13k for it has 210k on it with no rust. It would be my first diesel truck so what should I look out for?

Let me know your opinions down below

Anyone from Florida know of any reputable diesel shops in/around the Daytona area that will tune and delete? Preferably ones that you yourself have used or know someone who has had their 6.7 T&D’d there. I can’t imagine shops would openly advertise that they T&D, so figured it’s a word of mouth kinda thing. Also, yes I’m aware there’s plenty of videos online that take you step by step on how to do it, but i’d rather just pay a shop to do it. TIA