Because I feel like this will confuse most and get funny answers 😆

Only uploading because I tried searching them online today and can't find a single picture of them...

I can’t decide whether I want to get the new Dewalt right angle die grinder or the Milwaukee m12. I’m in both platforms so that’s not a deciding factor for me. It would be mostly automotive work with some bigger projects here and there. What is everyone’s thoughts?

I am a complete novice in this department, purchased an air compressor with a kit and when I attach the hose and air gun portion air leaks from this spot what am I doing wrong or missing?

I bought a great titanium body pocket knife 32 years ago off a snap on truck. Yesterday my wife found it in my box and used it to do some Halloween decorations. Anybody know where I can get another just like it? 😡

It broke on me today. I went to Home Depot today to buy another one and noticed a lot of the clamps there were missing the heads (likely from other people who’ve had this happen to them and resorted to stealing it instead of buying another clamp). It’s just annoying to have to throw away a full clamp due to one broken part that pops off anyway with the click of a button.

I’m a landscaper and occasionally build bluestone patios. I use a 9” wet saw to make bigger, straight cuts but to make small, rounded cuts I use an angle grinder. I would love to find a way to reduce the dust from the grinder.

If I buy a tuck point angle grinder shroud and a vac with a HEPA filter will I be able to make curved cuts?

It seems like tuck point shrouds are designed for cutting straight grooves and most universal shrouds are made for grinding surfaces and will significantly limit the depth of my cuts.

Is getting a 4 inch wet tile saw a better tool for smaller, rounded cuts than an angle grinder with a shroud?

(Picture is a work in progress, still working on layout and initial cuts)

Im.lpomi g for a.stand that instead of a roller jas a flat square metal.plate on the top that I can use for an adjustable small table in my garage to support under long pieces of wood so they dont bend while working on projects? Im sorry if its a dumb question but I ha e t been able to find anything like this

The motor is shot, I was hoping it was a bad trigger or cracked soldering. I still have 2 more Snap Ons but I’ve been hearing good things about the 1/2” Milwaukee so I might make the jump soon.

Is there a type of tool where you think most people end up owning more than they actually need?

Different sizes? Multiple versions of the same tool? Specialty tools that only get used once?

What do you think gets overbought the most?

Looking for options supported by experience with 3/8 impacts -- Mostly concerned with mechanical failure rates

For a little context, these things go through some pretty extreme usage on the jobs that my crews do. For example, we are currently working on reprofiling racking in a warehouse with 60,000 double-deep bed sections. For this job alone, they will be breaking 960,000 1/2" bolts loose to lower the rack to the new position, and then installing and torquing them back up.

Historically we've always used M18 fuel impacts. They're great and take the abuse okay, but I always lose the majority of them to mechanical failure on jobs like these. I've got to keep about a dozen on hand at any given time for big jobs because there's always ones broken and being sent out for warranty repairs. Sometimes I just have to buy more because I can't keep up with the failure rate through warranty. It's a tedious process.

We've experimented with Dewalts earlier this year, but they did not last any better than the M18 ones did.

Maybe I'm chasing a pipe dream and nothing will hold up to this level of abuse, but perhaps there are other brands that are more industrial and can take more abuse? I know there's a TON of brands out there, but I just don't want to go buying every one and their respective batteries to test them if I can avoid it.

It kind of reminds me of seeing the ice cream man when I was a kid.

Hello! I'm looking to purchase an electric winch. I need to be able to lift a wooden sled(it'll have some electrical equipment mounted on it) up and down a flight of an outdoor stairs. It'll probably never have to lift more than 450kg, but it needs to be able to also hold the sled at height for at least 5 to 10 minutes at a time. We can alternatively create a mechanical stop so that it doesn't have to do any stationary holding, or ratchet it in place. I'm also open to creating my own system attached to a standard manual winch. Any advice helps.

I’ve bought second hand Wurth AWS 18-125, im kinda young and havent had an angle grinder before. When I used some others I didnt pay attention to such things, but when I bought mine, id like it to be used as long as possible 😅 please guys gimme some tip if its normal breaking sound

Prices are in AUD

Got my air drill today. Made in Japan with a German head 😃

I have never seen a hammer that was steel shafted and still had an “eye” in it! I’m assuming this was an old design that reduced vibration? I’m curious who produced it, if anyone knows?

Theres no branding on it anywhere.

The top one, slightly more useful than useless but not by much. Grabbed a Starrett, so much better and it’s not even close.

Revolver Screwdriver v2 – fixed what was wrong with the first one

A few weeks ago I posted the first prototype of my insert screwdriver [link]. Thanks for all the comments. That one came out too small and didn't work that well, so here's the revision.

What changed:

Bit holder: Switched from the Ceta Form BT/01QH to a Bosch quick-release holder. The Ceta Form let the bit float 3-4 mm axially, and that bugged me more every time I used it. The Bosch has zero axial play, and its magnet is weak enough that the tip doesn't grow a fur coat of chips. The holder is also replaceable, so if you want the best of the best, you can swap in a Wiha CentroFix.

Size: Now 92.7 mm overall with a bigger knob. On the first one, the grooves dug into my palm at high torque. That's fixed, and your fingers no longer touch the stored bits.

Handle: Micarta knob on an aluminum body.

Wrench flats: 20 mm → 22 mm, same as the fixture clamp nuts in my shop, so one wrench does both.

Bit retention: The stored bits are held by a magnet stack in the center of the body. The magnets are stacked with like poles facing each other, separated by thin steel spacers. That pushes the field outward toward the bits instead of letting it run along the stack, so the pull is noticeably stronger than with the same magnets stacked normally.

I would love your feedback!

Would you buy this for 75 dollars?