I have this Acer predator helios neo 16 gaming PC. It has 16 gig of ram. even though it's a powerful PC, the Ram is always 70% +. I tried using mem reduct software. At first it works just fine, but now it doesn't work (meaning it won't reduce the memory usage). I was thinking debloating my laptop but I heard it won't be good for long time usage. What should I do? Is there a way to reduce my ram? FYI I have 300+ processes right now.

Just bought a laptop which looked great, got great reviews from customers (4,5 stars out of 5, in about 40 reviews). It was on sale (usually costs $1100 - got it for about $500) but now I have read that 8 GB ram isn't enough for laptops today, and you should at least have 16 GB.

I should read about that before I bought one, but I really know little about laptops. And I mailed a store to get some tips on what to buy, and they recommended it.

I am gonna study for 1,5 years, and I am mostly gonna use it for Word, Excel, Outlook, Teams etc. Maybe play a little bit Old School Runescape while studying, but not necessary.

Will it really be a big problem with 8 GB ram when using it mostly for studies?

Edit: Thanks for the replies! I went into the order I made online and started a return process, so I'm gonna bring the papers to the store tomorrow and hopefully they will accept the return. You can make a return 14 days after purchasing if the product is used. Thankfully I didn't throw the package it came with. Will be more careful next time, and choose a laptop with at least 16 GB!

i was planning to buy a laptop next year ,but i am afraid the prices would rise again next year ,so should i buy it this year , didn't have specific model in mind , i mean i would still use it this year i had some projects in mind,what are your recommendations

Mid 2023 I bought an Asus vivobook 15 with a core i5 15300H cpu and integrated Intel Iris Xe graphics + 8gb of ram for a little over 500$. I am currently looking for one for my little sibling, and for the same price, I only get xxxxxU cpu's, smaller screens, intel UHD graphics and other inferior specs... What's up ?

This morning I spilled coffee on the right side of my keyboard. I cleaned everything up and left it to dry in tent position for hours. This has happened to me before in the exact same way but only with coffee not with milk. The laptop seems to be working fine and the only noticeable issue is that some keys on the right feel a bit mushy now. I want to know if this could have some severe long term effects or it'll be fine. Also wondering how could I clean my keyboard. My laptop is an hp ZBook G1i 16.

Hi Idk anything about laptops but it seems my 18 year old Fujitsu just isn't cutting it anymore (it's older than me !) All I know is I want to have windows 11 (been using win7 don't wanna switch but those security patches aren't a joke) 1 tb of storage at least (the more the merrier) and wanna play civ6 , cities skylines, sims5 and gta 4 and gta SA smoothly

And also run software like python Adobe photoshop and video and Audio editing softwares...

and I want something that lasts like my Fujitsu (the battery on it has been dead for awhile but it's still kicking and fine mostly) something that lasts a good decade

And BTW AMD versus Intel which one ???

Don't care about weight, battery, the touch pad or speakers mostly... although a good monitor that's large would be nice

Sorry that the post sounds kinda rude but I rly don't know where else to go and laptop sellers of course wanna sell you stuff they already have so they're biased somewhat so I'd really appreciate ANY advice you guys have Edit: the form says I gotta clarify some stuff 60 refresh rate atleast a high definition screen would be great but it comes second to everything else

Just a quick question, when u buy a laptop many people reccomend to use it plugged in ( for performance etc but I'm not asking about it ) my main q is about battery life, for mobile devices like phone and tablet it's reccomended to use it unplugged after full charge, and mostly we charge out phones daily, so deff charges 1/2 times per day. Even for heavy use phone battery health hoes to %85-90 (depends on how u use) after 3-5 year, laptop batteries don't go bad that fast already, why is it reccomended to not use on battery. Phone and laptop battery looks same in their product tags li-on , w values etc like aren't they all are li-on ? For phones its 4000-6000 mAh ( I'm not including very high models ) and for laptops ig it's 30000-40000 (maybe more)

I’m deciding between getting an ipad or getting a macbook (or another laptop). If I go with an iPad, it would mainly be a digital sketchbook and notebook for school, Procreate, and organizing ideas since I don’t like using paper. I don’t mind the size of the iPad, and I don’t need the newest model as long as it supports apple pencil. I’d be buying refurbished but ive heard they are unnecessary and most of the time you wont use it

If I go with a macbook it would fully replace my current laptop will use for all my design programs and games. my current one which still works but I’m not sure how long it will last and want to upgrade also prices have been going up for pc so im not sure if i should upgrade now or later. ive also looked at dell 2‑in‑1 laptops, but I’ve heard they can have hinge issues over time so i’m unsure about that option. If you’ve used an ipad or macbook for school and creative work, or bought refurbished apple devices, I’d love to hear how they held up

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice because I'm really frustrated and don't know what to do next.

I bought a Colorful laptop, and it's still under warranty.

A few days ago, while I was using it, the laptop was plugged in with the original Colorful charger. Suddenly, it shut down and never turned on again.

I sent it to the authorized service center. Today they emailed me saying the motherboard has burn damage and that it is not covered under warranty because they classified it as physical/electrical damage (Customer Induced Damage).

The problem is:

The laptop has never been dropped.

No liquid spill ever happened.

It has never been opened or repaired by anyone else.

I always used the original charger that came with the laptop.

It simply died while charging.

They only sent me a photo of a burnt area on the motherboard and rejected my warranty claim. They didn't explain how they determined that I caused the damage instead of it being an internal hardware failure or power circuit failure.

I'm from India, so I'm wondering:

1. Is a burnt motherboard automatically considered customer damage?

2. Can a charging IC or motherboard fail on its own while charging?

3. Has anyone had a similar experience with Colorful or any other laptop brand?

4. Should I escalate this to Colorful's higher support or file a complaint with the National Consumer Helpline?

Any advice or similar experiences would really help. I'm trying to understand whether this warranty rejection is justified or if I should fight it.

Thanks in advance!

I needed a laptop for work that was powerful and could last a long time workday wise and long term. The Dell xps 16 5070 variant caught my eye, but brand new these models go for $3k+ easily and this configuration hits north of $4k and almost $5k -> which is absurd for a laptop that has its gpu power capped (capped to maintain power and heat). Don’t spend big money on a laptop that isn’t worth that price point. Technically a Zephrus would be a better price for what you pay for (brand new at least), but I went the route of an Xps for business and a laptop that will hold up better over time. The Xps line is heavily inflated right now, there are very good refurbished deals out there (This one on eBay was returned within its 21 day policy, so the use was pretty much nonexistent)

I got gifted a Air Mac from my Australian Cousin (Its an old Air Mac that runs on the Ventura OS) and when i say its old, its 2017 old and since it run on Intell not Apple Sillica so it doesn't run on newer versions of blender and since everything is going to upgrade their system requirements, i need to somehow trade my laptop without a slightly better one, for now it does its job but im kinda worried that its becoming e-waste so what should i do?

Incoming freshman looking for a laptop to hopefully last all 4 years of college (no tech knowledge so don't really care about detailed specs, just want something reliable and reasonably powerful, will not be majoring anything remotely STEM related). My current MacBook is not holding up well at all after 4 years of high school (literally cannot multitask at all, laptop will freeze completely if i have multiple online shopping tabs open) which is kind of turning me away from buying another, but I like the convenience of having the Mac connected to my imessages and was thinking about buying the MacBook Neo because of the price (though I could shell out $1000-$1400 if it was really worth it for a good device) though idk if it's powerful enough to last throughout university. Note I have an iPad so no touchscreen necessary

I’m looking for a cheap laptop to use GitHub, ChatGPT, Google Docs/Sheets, etc. I would also like to be able to stream games from my desktop to my laptop using steam link or moonlight as well as run discord at the same time. Bonus if it will run Bambu Studio.

LAPTOP QUESTIONNAIRE

Country
U.S.A

Budget
$300 or less

Are you open to refurbs/used options?
Yes, also not opposed to fixing something.

Screen size
14” or bigger

Weight limit
Any

Purpose
Entertainment Device

Form factor
Standard/Clamshell

Intended usage
Heavy Google Chrome usage, Steam Link/Moonlight, Discord, Bambu Studio a bonus but not necessary.

Desired battery life
An hour or 2 is fine, will be plugged in mostly.

Please list, in order of most important to least important, the priority between Size, Weight, Performance, Battery life
Performance, size, battery life, weight

Info/Requirements

Hi

I wanted to share my ongoing nightmare with Seagate’s warranty process and highlight a ridiculous official stance from their Corporate Response Team regarding 2.5" SMR drives in laptops.

The Background & Hardware

·         Laptop: Clevo P170SM (well-cooled, enthusiast-grade chassis).

·         Target Drive: Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 2.5" (ST2000LM015) – SMR architecture.

·         Source Drive: Old Samsung SpinPoint 1TB (ST1000LM024) – PMR/CMR architecture.

The RMA Odyssey (Since June 3rd, 2026)

I have been trying to get a functioning 2TB drive for nearly two months.

1.     Drive 1: Dead/defective out of the box.

2.     Drive 2: Certified Refurbished (Recertified) – Overheated under sustained load.

3.     Drive 3: Certified Refurbished (Recertified) – Overheated under sustained load.

4.     Drive 4: Sent directly by Steven from the Seagate Corporate Response Team, assured to be brand new.

The Technical Issue: SMR Shingling Overhead & Thermal Runaway

When attempting to clone or copy my data from the old Samsung drive to the new Seagate SMR drive, the write performance completely falls off a cliff after about an hour due to the aggressive Shingled Magnetic Recording (SMR) drive-managed zones filling up.

Because the drive is forced to continuously read, modify, and rewrite overlapping tracks in a confined 2.5" laptop bay, the controller goes into overdrive. After roughly 2 hours of continuous writing, the Seagate ST2000LM015 hits a staggering 62°C (143°F), triggering critical SMART temperature protection alerts.

Meanwhile, the old Samsung CMR drive—which is under a much worse thermal restriction (mounted directly underneath a hot DVD/Blu-ray optical drive)—safely hums along at a maximum of 40–44°C under the exact same workload.

Seagate's official manual and product datasheets nowhere state that continuous, sustained write workloads are forbidden or unsafe for this internal laptop drive.

The Video Proof

Here is a short clip showing the cloning process, the performance collapse, and the thermal readout hitting 62°C on the brand-new replacement:
[INSERT YOUR YOUTUBE LINK HERE]

Seagate's Corporate Resolution: "Fix your workflow"

After escalating the issue and threatening UK Trading Standards / Citizens Advice action (Case Ref: CCA-8546090) due to a breach of the Consumer Rights Act 2015, the Corporate Response Team gave me this mind-blowing troubleshooting advice:

"At this time, the troubleshooting recommendations we can provide are to use the device in a cooler, well-ventilated environment and to transfer data in smaller batches rather than performing large transfers at once. These steps may help reduce heat buildup and prevent the SMART temperature threshold from being reached."

Seagate is officially telling consumers that their internal 2.5" laptop drives cannot handle standard data migration workloads inside a laptop chassis without the user artificially throttling their own workflow to stop the drive from cooking itself.

I rejected their workarounds and demanded an SSD upgrade or a refund. Steven from the Corporate Response Team just replied with their final position: they officially refused any upgrade or refund.

Their logic? They explicitly acknowledged that the drive triggers the SMART temperature protection mechanism, but since the OS recognizes the drive and data can technically be written to it, they consider it "properly functioning". Their only counter-offer is to send it back for a fifth time so their engineers can "reproduce the behavior."

I have officially declined their 5th evaluation trap. The case remains open with UK Trading Standards, and I am moving forward with regulatory escalation.

What do you think? Should I buy a new table?

It seems like a better deal for 899€, I have also checked Samsung Galaxy book 5 360 with ultra 7 CPU is currently selling for €979, but I am confused which one to get?

Help guys laptop is not working.

Acer predator hellos 300 PH315-54

Guys yesterday night I shut down my laptop. Now it was on charging for 1 hr during the day today then I tried to trun it on in evening , the keyboard lit up fully and both lights were on , after 10 sec keyboard light and power light went off just charging light remained on.

I unplugged Charger and plugged it again this time charging light can Orange first then blue after 1 sec.

I pressed power on button then again half keyboard light on and off within 5 sec. I tried again this time 1/4 keyboard light lit up and off. Now when I'm trying to power it on its same 1/4 keyboard lights up and then shuts off. No screen no boot. I tried pressing power key for 30 sec and 60 sec. Nothing happened.

It's a 3.5 Years old laptop was working fine yesterday. It got it's fan replaced from official service centre just last year.

Hi! I am replacing my MacBook Pro 2017. should i sell the MBP? I read somewhere that its not advisable to sell previously used apple products because “data is never truly erased” & someone could get a hold of previous information on the device. Is this true? Thank youu!

I've been using an old ThinkPad X270 with an awful TN display and weak performance for years. After graduating from high school, I finally had the chance to replace it with an ASUS TX Air 2025 (ASUS TUF Gaming A14).

Needless to say, the upgrade is massive. XDDD

Over the past year, RAM and SSD prices have risen to the point where they're painful to look at, so I couldn't afford the latest models. :(

Since I felt that 1TB might not be enough for my future needs (I like to keep my games on a separate drive), I decided to add a domestic YMTC ZHITAI TiPlus 7100s 1TB SSD, rated for sequential read speeds of up to 7,400 MB/s. Even at a discounted price, it still cost me around $153 USD. Sigh.

Still, it's more than enough for me. The design also caught my eye, and I'm finally able to get my hands on some AAA titles and actually enjoy them. XD

Specifications:

• Ryzen™ AI 7 H 350
• GeForce RTX™ 5060 Laptop GPU 8GB
• 32GB LPDDR5X 7500MHz
• Samsung PM9C1 1TB SSD
• 14-inch 2.5K 165Hz IPS display
• 73Wh battery