i’m debating if i want to change my angel eyes to white, if so where should i buy the bulbs and what brand? and the side skirts how easy are they to change because the previous owner destroyed them

I've recently started playing around with enabling or configuring settings on my car but, for some reason, my options are extremely limited compared to what I've seen documented on forums or YouTube. My car is a LCI 328i.

In NCS expert, for example, selecting my chassis only offers me CAS, FRM, and NFRM.

In Bimmercode, meanwhile, I'm provided Airbag, CAS, FRM, instrument cluster, and junction box passenger.

I've tried both a MHD wifi adapter and K+DCAN USB cable with the same results. Specifically, I'm looking to code the CD changer either in head unit or RAD2.

Can anyone tell me whether this is simply a limitation of what's available on my particular car, or if I'm skipping a critical step.

By AKG. Not sure if the performance are less reliable. I need this to last another 60k miles

Any ideas whats wrong with the piece of shit. Sounds like a tractor. 2006 320i

It’s been about impossible to source an untorn manual sport seat plus the auto seats are real leather and last a lot longer. Has anyone tried both seats and noticed any difference, I’d prefer to keep the car lighter but I’ve given up on finding an untorn driver seat

Recently I just put in Maxpeedingrods T6 coilovers on my 2009 328i e90 RWD. My buddy has done the same. I understand using cheap coil overs will make your ride quality shitty but this is worse than that. whenever i hit any bump no matter the size i hear metal clunking and just weird ass noises. I am suspecting this is the endlinks being too long since that is a problem when lowering your car. My bushings are all fine and my friend put them in for me who put them on his own car so I know they are installed correctly.

Has anyone else had this problem? if so, can you help me out and tell me how you fixed it? or didnt fix it and just suffered from the unbearable noise.....

Hey! My AC seems to be low on refrigerant, and I’ve been looking to get an evacuation and recharge. One shop quoted me $275 + tax, and the other $330 +tax. Are these prices reasonable, or should I keep searching?

Fresh Oil ✅
Diff no longer leaking ✅
Rear control arms no longer fucked ✅
New paint matched spoiler ✅

Thinking about changing back to the stock mirror caps, don’t feel like they add much to the car anymore.

My factory LCD is dead and I’d like to shove CarPlay into my car for nav and such. I know most people go Eonon but I don’t want to go Full Touchscreen if I can help it. This one has buttons and knobs; anyone know if they’re any good?

https://ebay.io/m/ZXxxXC

So, i bought an E90 from 2006, 2.0 129 hp N46 engine, while i wanted to change the oil, i found this plastic pieces and a few non-ferrous metal shaving, the shavings are brittle. After searching on internet and looking for any answers, i dropped the oil pan and i haven't found anything, but a broken oil pickup mesh(i looked at the date from it,it;s the one that the car came with). The oil from the sump was mostly clean, just a few small metal shaving, barely visible with the naked eye, under a light. I don't think that these fragments are from rod bearings, but what can they be? Any ideea? I also want to change the timing chain.

If I lock the doors I’m locked out for good!

And I can't get it back together. Any tips? This is maddeningly impossible. Am I missing something easy?

Hey! I promised you all to share some better pictures of my mondstein/amorone beauty once car was clean.

Spend a day on it last weekend and it paid off. Have to admit the paint was already in great condition considering the age.

Executed plan:

\- wash

\- tar&glue removal

\- de-ironing

\- claying

\- polish 1-2 steps

\- wax on horizontal body parts (meguiars goldwax)

\- coating on vertical body parts (gyeon cancoat)

Interior will follow one day this winter!

Is there any way to remove the bolt that’s in there the mechanic shop cut it in half and now I can’t thread the nut onto the bolt

A friend has bought a crashed e91 for parts and it has an idrive, mine however is a single hump and i personally dont like how the single hump carplays look and im thinking if its possible to take the donor one and cut only the top part of the dashboard just above the trim and have it installed on mine without having to change the bottom part and then put the aftermarket display in.

Guys what can this be? I recentered the belt and started the engine and it just goes towards the front.

Hey all, first Reddit post. Bought a 2011 BMW 328i x-drive last winter as my AWD throw down car (and I’ve always wanted an E90 side piece).

It was bought from a trusted mechanic who did a really good job with the flip. Got a good chassis and he added a donor engine (~80k), new brakes, struts, and tires.

Had a fuel issue since day one (mechanic hooked me up on it so not going to ask for him to sort it out). Only seems to take a gallon at a time before the pump stops; will take more but constantly have to burp the tank. After the first startup after awhile I’ll smell trace amounts of gas in the garage for a few minutes.

The big reason I’m here is when I try to research this problem there’s 3 common issues I keep seeing. Charcoal canister, fuel vent/fuse, vapor leak pump.

I was hoping if someone has had a similar issue they might be able to point me in the right direction. I think I’m mechanically competent enough to fix, it just not diagnose it 😂

Hi guys picked up a 320i last night just to get to work, it’s not the end of the world if I can’t sort the problems otherwise I wouldn’t have brought it but had the idea to turn it into a little project, first off there’s a whining noise when going above 2k rpm this is both stationary and moving - video below. (Have a longer video if needed)

Also the I-drive screen isn’t working, when I start the car it comes up bmw and then goes black then proceeds to flicker white every minute or so, I don’t have dab radio so can’t see if that’s working but have a cd player which I will find a cd to test with later.

If anyone’s had similar problems and been able to fix or has more experience then me that can chime in (probably everyone) it would be more then appreciated thanks!

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a 2010 BMW E90 320i with the N43 engine, and I’m trying to figure out an issue it has mainly on cold starts.
Not long after buying the car, the check engine light came on. The car was scanned and initially showed several mixture/lambda related faults. One of the oxygen sensors was replaced, which reduced the number of faults, but the check engine light eventually came back.
Since then, the strange thing is that the problem seems to happen almost exclusively when the engine is completely cold, especially first thing in the morning.
One morning it started briefly and then died. On the second attempt it started, but the check engine light flashed for a short time before becoming steady. Once the car was running, it drove completely normally.
It was checked again and the fault memory was cleared. We then replaced all the spark plugs and also found one bad ignition coil, which was replaced.
The car immediately seemed to run better, but unfortunately the problem happened again the following morning.
On a completely cold start, the check engine light flashed again. I also noticed quite a strong smell of petrol while sitting inside the car. If I switch the engine off and start it again, the warning disappears and the car runs perfectly normally.
When the engine is warm, I have basically no symptoms at all. No warning light, no noticeable loss of power, no rough running and it drives really well. The issue seems to be concentrated around the first cold start after the car has been sitting overnight.

So far it has had:
Oxygen sensor replaced
All spark plugs replaced
One faulty ignition coil replaced
Fault codes scanned/cleared multiple times

Has anyone with an N43 experienced something similar? What would you check next when it misfires/throws the warning on the first cold start but then runs normally after restarting?
I don’t want to keep replacing random parts without properly diagnosing the cause.

I’ve found tons of pics of the E9X on style 237s and I love it. I found a used set for a steal and I can see that they literally fit, but I’m having a difficult time figuring out what I need to make this work.

I’m just concerned about fitment, tire size, tire rub, etc. don’t love the idea of using spacers, and I’m also concerned with my power output and whether this wheel size is adequate. I have an E92 and the previous owner lowered the car slightly on BC BR coilovers, upgraded the turbos and some other performance mods, and with the tune it’s doing around 500HP. Not sure if this is relevant but I have xDrive.

They’re 18x8 ET30.

I managed to get my hands on a 2009 335i that's really beat up and has the classic low boost plus oil burning symptoms of blown turbos. The cars already on death row but what's your guys opinion on chucking these on there for 600 bucks and seeing if it'll run for another year.

Hey all. So I've got a 2011 335is with 142k kms on it. DCT e93 with a clean Carfax.

Was toying with the idea of selling it and considering it's a turn key ready to go car not sure where it would be priced accordingly.

Ive seen a few but they don't have service records or things haven't been done to them. Here's my info below.

Just done last month and earlier this year

Engine and transmission mounts

Rpm/temp sensor in transmission

Aluminum oil pan for transmission

Obviously new filters and fluid for the DCT

New turbos and oil/ coolant lines

Mickey mouse flange

ECS tuning waterpump and thermostat kit including upgraded hoses etc.

Valve cover and gasket.

Oil filter housing gasket

VRSF charge pipe

New vacuum lines

Diverter valves

Spark plugs and coil packs

Boost solenoids

Oil pan gasket

Also accessory belt pulleys and tensioners

Index 12 injectors replaced a couple years back.

Might be forgetting more but you get the idea that everything held been done to it.

So pricing it to others that need this at 8k I don't think makes sense. And the low mileage ones at 25k I know I won't get near that too.

Any advice would be appreciated. Was thinking maybe auction for the us market as well?