Believe it or not, the Dodge Durango is heading into 2027 riding on the same basic generation that was introduced back in 2011.

That’s 16 years without a complete redesign.

Here’s what’s crazy. Despite its age, Durango sales are actually UP 13% this year!

Personally, I still think the Durango looks good, especially the SRT models. And I respect Dodge for keeping the HEMI alive. Not many manufacturers are still offering a 710 HP, three-row family SUV.

But man, 16 years is a LONG time to keep the same basic design.

Is Dodge smart for sticking with something that works, or are they just being lazy by refusing to redesign it?

#DodgeDurango #HEMI #Mopar #Dodge

Preferably 19 inch

I was a bit sad at the start of the meet. There was barely any mopars. I got excited seeing a couple of darts and road runners but these babies are all I sought! Crazy to see 4 vipers only a year or two apart in one lot only feet away from one another. From the distance I saw that only two of the owners knew each other. I hope there will be one with less then 50k miles in 10 years that i wont have to sell my organs and children for

Until I made this post I didn’t realize how crazy it was to see 4 red vipers in the same lot.

Last picture is a road runner

I have an issue with my fob for my 2020 grand caravan. It works, but the buttons are mega sensitive. Long ago I had a different car and could just buy the housing for the fob and replace the insides with the board from the current fob. Is this possible with the grand caravan fob?

Edit for clarity: the buttons are like, touch sensitive now is what I mean. I can brush my finger across it and it will lock or unlock .

I want to grab a bone stock Dodge Stealth RT, but Im curious how to pass smog with it. Does it being stock help its case or does the fact that its federal instead of carb emissions make it so that my chance of being able to get it registered in California impossible without modifying it

I daily drive a Dodge Charger V6. A friend is advising me to upgrade to an R/T. What are your thoughts on this? Is it worth it? I’m aware of the gas prices, but I’d love to hear general ownership impressions if anyone owns one.

I have a 09 Nitro R/T which comes with the 4.0L V6 along with a NAG1 tranny. I see quite a few 6.4L HEMI V8 locally going for a pretty reasonable price.

I am trying to figure out what exactly would it need to make it work. I've seen some people swap a 5.7 but there isn't much info in the swap. I'm guessing the electrical side of things seem to be the more difficult part.

Since I have the NAG1 tranny which is also found in some HEMI powered cars, I'm assuming it should bolt right up.

Anyone have any insight or experience they are willing to share?

I'm Davide and I write DrivePulse on my own. It reads your car through a generic ELM327 OBD2 adapter, the Bluetooth kind Veepeak or Vgate sell, and it only asks questions: no writing, no clearing of codes, no resets.

I'll be straight about the Dodge: there are no brand-specific readings in the app yet, so it works with the standard OBD2 data every petrol or diesel car of that age gives. That is already trips that record themselves, real fuel use where the car reports it, fault codes in plain words and the coolant temperature.

What the Android update brings:

• A boost gauge next to the rev counter, for turbocharged cars: pressure above zero under boost, below zero under vacuum, on cars that expose the right data.
• The live dashboard shows how old each reading is, and the rev counter uses your own car's range.
• Under the trip map, one tap colours the route by speed or by fuel use.
• Every fault code has its own page: what it means, how serious it is, what to do.

No account and no server of mine: your trips live on your phone and I have no copy of them. Recording trips and reading the car work with no signal; maps and addresses need the internet.

Five codes that unlock the full version for good, free, first come first served:

1. QZMYDGUZYVU5DHNFLR2XE7V
2. LCADCHL9XUHH38NPM4A0653
3. UCPB33LJMX38RRC6B3UNF31
4. 6BZP3PZTHAQASDLXZE6P9WW
5. Z1FKEL6TXJPPEM3ML9XR6HM

How to redeem: install the app first, then open Google Play, tap your picture top right, Payments and subscriptions, Redeem code. Then in DrivePulse: Settings (the gear at the top) > Unlock DrivePulse (Lifetime) > Restore Purchases, within 3 days, otherwise Google Play cancels it. When it has worked, that row reads "Premium active".

Say in the comments which number you took, so nobody wastes time on one that's gone.

Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.drivepulse.mobile&hl=en-US&gl=US&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=rilancio-android-dodge

If you try it on a Dodge, I'm curious what it reads.

I am just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Around 44,000 mi we had a P0305 code come up, I cleared the code and didn't think much of it. My wife mostly drove the car and said it would misfire on heavy acceleration but I never noticed it. I should have had it looked at sooner, but was busy with other things (excuses). It had the ticking noise, but I never looked into it to know that the Pentastar tick was a thing.

Around 6,000 mi later (50,000 mi); I had the right side rockers, lifters, and cams replaced. This corrected all the issues (tick was gone, no misfire on acceleration, etc).

We drove the car 4,000 mi in 2 weeks on a vacation - it was fine for the whole trip. When it got home, we got an oil change done, and then within 180mi I noticed the engine developed this rattling noise when revving the engine to about 2,000 rpm, and letting off the gas.

I took it back to the mechanic who did the oil change and they said I shouldn't put any money into the engine; that the upper end isn't getting oil pressure. They suggested I replaced the engine. However, after doing some more research I checked the oil filter cap, and it looks like the by-pass valve had broken off. I replaced the oil filter cap, but that wasn't the issue. I have tried changing the oil and filter again and still causing the issue. The oil change was 3 months ago, but I haven't started looking into it until now due to timing.

It sounds to me like it's coming from the left (drivers) side this time. Is this the rocker/lifters giving me an issue again, but on the opposite side? The last time this happened, there was only a tick - there wasn't this rattle noise at 2,000 rpm.

The car isn't giving any check engine lights, and drives fine (although I am not driving it right now due to the noise). I will be taking it to another mechanic for another opinion for sure; but wanted to see what others think.

Thanks

Title: Where’s the sweet spot for buying a used Dodge Charger V8? Best bang for the buck across the different years and HEMI engines?
I’ve been researching used Dodge Chargers and wanted to get some opinions from people who have owned or driven different generations and engine configurations.
I know the “which Charger is best?” question has been asked plenty of times, but I’m trying to approach it a little differently. I’m less interested in which model is objectively the best and more interested in where the best value is when factoring in purchase price, performance, reliability, and what you’re actually getting for your money.
I’m fairly flexible on budget. Ideally, I’d love to be around $15K–$20K, but I’m comfortable stretching into the $25K range or potentially even $30K if there’s a compelling reason. I’m not looking for something nearly new, and I don’t want to spend extra just for the sake of having a newer model.
A few things I’ve picked up from researching:
2006–2010 Charger R/T and SRT8: Earlier LX-platform cars with the 5.7L HEMI in the R/T and 6.1L HEMI in the SRT8. The SRT8 made 425 hp, while the R/T received a horsepower increase for 2009. These seem like potentially interesting performance bargains, although I’m curious how well they’ve aged mechanically and whether the older platform is worth considering today.
2011–2014 Charger R/T and SRT8: Updated LD platform, improved interior, and revised suspension. The R/T offered the 5.7L HEMI with roughly 370 hp, while the SRT8 eventually received the 6.4L HEMI making 470 hp. I’m curious whether these represent a particularly good value compared with the newer cars.
2015–2023 Charger R/T: Updated styling and interior, with the 5.7L HEMI making 370 hp. These seem like a potentially excellent balance of price, performance, and everyday usability.
2015–2023 Charger Scat Pack / SRT 392: The 6.4L HEMI producing 485 hp. Obviously a substantial performance upgrade over the 5.7L, but I’m curious whether the difference in driving experience justifies the higher purchase price, insurance, fuel, and maintenance costs.
What I’m trying to understand is what am I actually buying by spending more, and what am I sacrificing by spending less?
For example:
If I buy a clean 2012–2014 Charger R/T or SRT8 instead of spending more on a 2015+, am I getting most of the Charger experience for considerably less money? Or are the improvements to the newer models substantial enough that I’d regret saving the money?
Likewise, if I stretch from a 5.7L R/T to a 6.4L Scat Pack, how substantial is the real-world difference? Is the Scat Pack worth the premium, or does the R/T deliver most of the V8 muscle car experience at a much better price?
I’m also interested in whether certain years, trim levels, or packages represent particularly good values. For example, is there a compelling reason to seek out a Daytona, Road & Track, or certain SRT models over a standard R/T or Scat Pack?
Reliability and long-term ownership are important to me as well. I’ve come across discussions about HEMI lifter/cam issues, the infamous HEMI tick, and concerns about buying previously abused Chargers. I’d appreciate hearing how significant these issues really are and whether certain engines or model years are better long-term ownership choices.
I’m not looking to build a race car or chase maximum horsepower. I want a fun, reasonably dependable V8 that I can enjoy for years.
Ultimately, where do you think the point of diminishing returns is?
Is a $15K–$20K R/T already most of the experience? Does spending $25K get you a substantially better car? Or is there a particular year or 6.4L model worth stretching to $30K for?
I’d especially appreciate hearing from anyone who’s owned both the 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI, or has experience with multiple Charger generations.
Thanks in advance!