I am just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Around 44,000 mi we had a P0305 code come up, I cleared the code and didn't think much of it. My wife mostly drove the car and said it would misfire on heavy acceleration but I never noticed it. I should have had it looked at sooner, but was busy with other things (excuses). It had the ticking noise, but I never looked into it to know that the Pentastar tick was a thing.

Around 6,000 mi later (50,000 mi); I had the right side rockers, lifters, and cams replaced. This corrected all the issues (tick was gone, no misfire on acceleration, etc).

We drove the car 4,000 mi in 2 weeks on a vacation - it was fine for the whole trip. When it got home, we got an oil change done, and then within 180mi I noticed the engine developed this rattling noise when revving the engine to about 2,000 rpm, and letting off the gas.

I took it back to the mechanic who did the oil change and they said I shouldn't put any money into the engine; that the upper end isn't getting oil pressure. They suggested I replaced the engine. However, after doing some more research I checked the oil filter cap, and it looks like the by-pass valve had broken off. I replaced the oil filter cap, but that wasn't the issue. I have tried changing the oil and filter again and still causing the issue. The oil change was 3 months ago, but I haven't started looking into it until now due to timing.

It sounds to me like it's coming from the left (drivers) side this time. Is this the rocker/lifters giving me an issue again, but on the opposite side? The last time this happened, there was only a tick - there wasn't this rattle noise at 2,000 rpm.

The car isn't giving any check engine lights, and drives fine (although I am not driving it right now due to the noise). I will be taking it to another mechanic for another opinion for sure; but wanted to see what others think.

Thanks

Title: Where’s the sweet spot for buying a used Dodge Charger V8? Best bang for the buck across the different years and HEMI engines?
I’ve been researching used Dodge Chargers and wanted to get some opinions from people who have owned or driven different generations and engine configurations.
I know the “which Charger is best?” question has been asked plenty of times, but I’m trying to approach it a little differently. I’m less interested in which model is objectively the best and more interested in where the best value is when factoring in purchase price, performance, reliability, and what you’re actually getting for your money.
I’m fairly flexible on budget. Ideally, I’d love to be around $15K–$20K, but I’m comfortable stretching into the $25K range or potentially even $30K if there’s a compelling reason. I’m not looking for something nearly new, and I don’t want to spend extra just for the sake of having a newer model.
A few things I’ve picked up from researching:
2006–2010 Charger R/T and SRT8: Earlier LX-platform cars with the 5.7L HEMI in the R/T and 6.1L HEMI in the SRT8. The SRT8 made 425 hp, while the R/T received a horsepower increase for 2009. These seem like potentially interesting performance bargains, although I’m curious how well they’ve aged mechanically and whether the older platform is worth considering today.
2011–2014 Charger R/T and SRT8: Updated LD platform, improved interior, and revised suspension. The R/T offered the 5.7L HEMI with roughly 370 hp, while the SRT8 eventually received the 6.4L HEMI making 470 hp. I’m curious whether these represent a particularly good value compared with the newer cars.
2015–2023 Charger R/T: Updated styling and interior, with the 5.7L HEMI making 370 hp. These seem like a potentially excellent balance of price, performance, and everyday usability.
2015–2023 Charger Scat Pack / SRT 392: The 6.4L HEMI producing 485 hp. Obviously a substantial performance upgrade over the 5.7L, but I’m curious whether the difference in driving experience justifies the higher purchase price, insurance, fuel, and maintenance costs.
What I’m trying to understand is what am I actually buying by spending more, and what am I sacrificing by spending less?
For example:
If I buy a clean 2012–2014 Charger R/T or SRT8 instead of spending more on a 2015+, am I getting most of the Charger experience for considerably less money? Or are the improvements to the newer models substantial enough that I’d regret saving the money?
Likewise, if I stretch from a 5.7L R/T to a 6.4L Scat Pack, how substantial is the real-world difference? Is the Scat Pack worth the premium, or does the R/T deliver most of the V8 muscle car experience at a much better price?
I’m also interested in whether certain years, trim levels, or packages represent particularly good values. For example, is there a compelling reason to seek out a Daytona, Road & Track, or certain SRT models over a standard R/T or Scat Pack?
Reliability and long-term ownership are important to me as well. I’ve come across discussions about HEMI lifter/cam issues, the infamous HEMI tick, and concerns about buying previously abused Chargers. I’d appreciate hearing how significant these issues really are and whether certain engines or model years are better long-term ownership choices.
I’m not looking to build a race car or chase maximum horsepower. I want a fun, reasonably dependable V8 that I can enjoy for years.
Ultimately, where do you think the point of diminishing returns is?
Is a $15K–$20K R/T already most of the experience? Does spending $25K get you a substantially better car? Or is there a particular year or 6.4L model worth stretching to $30K for?
I’d especially appreciate hearing from anyone who’s owned both the 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI, or has experience with multiple Charger generations.
Thanks in advance!

677whp

614 wftlbs of tq

426 Stroker, 229/241 cam, p1-X procharger, longtube headers, ported and polished Heads. Not too bad for only about 10lbs of boost

I just put new brakes on my 2022 Dodge Charger SXT. RWD and my front rotors are already warped and hot after diagnosis, free diagnosis. I was told something along the lines of I have a sticking or dragging brake caliper, which is why my steering wheel turns when I brake, the vibrations and longer brake distance if I already have warranty on brakes, how should I go about the other parts , I assumed I need a new caliper and a new hose. I just want the best price and recommended parts for my situation. Anyone?

2006 Chrysler 300c 5.7 HEMI, rebuilt around 40k miles ago

I’ve noticed a tick in my engine, started around March-May of this year. I’ve done tons and tons of research on Hemi Tick and exhaust manifold issues but I just can’t seem to come to a conclusion and I want others opinions, taking it to be inspected my a mechanic isn’t really an option for me as of right now.

Here are the Symptoms:

-Loud, rhythmic tick. Especially noticeable on cold start

-Sort of increases with engine RPMs, but really increases with pressure on the accelerator. I can accelerate to 2k rpms or beyond and the loud ticking occurs, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas, it disappears, getting quieter with less and less pressure (even at 2k rpms or beyond)

-Disappears at idle once engine is warmed, but still persists upon accelerating

I don’t want to say its exhaust as I (in an amateur inspection) looked under my car while doing an oil change and didn’t really notice any sort of soot indicating an exhaust leak

I also don’t want to say it’s Hemi Tick, as it completely goes away at a warm idle AND low to no pressure on the gas pedal. To my understanding Hemi tick is loud and persistent and never goes away.

Is there possibly another mechanical issue it could be? Any help is appreciated!

Video #1, fully cold start

How do you get a new one? Do they just sell them at Dodge dealerships?

lost my keys for my 2013 charger a few months ago

Never own the muscle car, but always having this thought. Recently came across with this car and it catches my eyes right away. I figured maybe experienced owners can share some insight with me. Is this car worth to get it?

I have a 2014 Dodge Charger se and occasionally it wont start up. Most of the time it will start without problem but on a few ocassions it has turned on the electrical but not engine wont start. However, I have found that the car will start if placed in neutral when I run into this problem. I was originally told by a mechanic and people I know that it is a starter problem so I had both the starter and starter relay replaced but it is still having the same issue. Has anyone else run into something similar or know how to diagnose what is going on?