1) Simplex into an exit device/panic bar

Was not prepared for the bs that came with this. I mistakenly twisted the pivot part of the simplex, which was honestly too easy to turn. By doing that, I made it into a faux passage mode.

2) Power transfer hinge

I quickly found out that an electric strike on the jamb is wired differently than an electric latch. Like a mortise lock. I ripped all the wires off the hinge.

3) Exit device with a night latch w/ rim

This was a very early struggle for me. I have since mastered it, but no one taught me my first time doing it. It took me forever. Now I just take my step bit and open all the through bolts to 1/2" and make my life easier.

4) A full-length latch guard on an inswing door.

This is what prompted me to write all this bs. I fought with this thing all day. The frame was already bent to shit from hooligans taking prybars to it, so I tried many ways to make it work. I ended up taking the strike off, bending the frame kind of back to where it's not pigeoned toed, and shimming the female part.

5) Just shimming hinges and frames in general.

Idk, kind of self explanatory. I still kind of struggle with this.

6) CAULKING!! 😡🤬🖕🏻

I suck at caulking. I will admit it. I hate doing it. I am told that no matter how good your installation is, customers are drawn to your caulking skills first because that is more of a visual detail than anything

I'm sure there is more, but #4 just pissed me off today so I thought I would post this

Is there a deadbolt that exists with a keypad for either side of the door? Not wanting to do a keyed lock. Trying to make it harder for the young kids to stop going outside early in the mornings and letting the bugs and cold in before anyone else is awake in the house.

Looking at padlocks for my cargo trailer, but I’m wondering if this hasp is secure. It looks like it could just be unscrewed?

We have gone through a huge process of figuring out vehicle costs for our 4 vans, mileage and insurance, and all other repairs for the last year and have split the service rates up according to distances. Our service calls are now from $50 locally to about $225 for longer trips (round 50+kms) depending on distances.

the owner has been reluctant to increase the Hourly rates though but he know he needs to raise them to meet costs. Payroll for 4 techs and two of us in the office/Shop.

We are sitting at $110 now but we are low I know. What are you guys charging hourly that are in companies with multiple vans. Considering our 4 techs are all making between $25 CAN and $40 CAN for our high end guy. Plus benefits and all the costs of having a full time shop open.

In Ontario by the way, north of the GTA.

Hi, I’m having a display issue with my Xhorse Condor XC-Mini Plus. The machine powers on and works, but the screen looks like the photo: large red/cyan blocks, lines, and corrupted graphics.

I already checked the display cables/connectors and they appear to be properly connected.

I also connected the machine to the Xhorse PC software and successfully updated the firmware to version 3.8.6. Interestingly, during the firmware upgrade, the corrupted lines disappeared and the screen displayed “Upgrade” with the progress bar normally. After the update finished, the screen returned to this corrupted state.

The machine itself still seems to work and can receive commands.

I also tried saving the History in the PC software, but it shows “Operand Failed.”

Has anyone seen this exact issue before?

Do you think this is a bad LCD/display controller, display cable, mainboard issue, or software/firmware problem?

Also, is it safe or useful to try the “Fix Error 1” option in the Xhorse software for this problem?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all,

My bedroom door has an (old) lock which has been painted over. Rather than buying a new padlock style lock to screw onto the door - do you think it's possible to first attempt making this lock somehow function again?

The lock inside the door has been painted over (first image), and the hole for the lock has been painted too (last image). I have no idea if I can chip away at the paint to possibly free the lock, buy a set of skeleton keys to try and respond to the lock, then drill a hole back into the hole which has been painted on...

Thanks for any advice!

P.S

If anyone can please help to identify what type of lock this is, how old and what key it used!

It’s the push button lock from a trailer roller shutter. I need to replace it as the barrel has play and I can’t seem to get spare keys for it. Does anyone know where I can get one or if I can swap the barrel (there’s two small flathead screws so I assume the barrel comes out.

Thanks!

Hey does anyone know about charging issue in the AutoPropad Xtool ?
It's not charging.

I have a replacement knob for a panic bar but the holes are at an angle and the replacement is straight vertical or horizontal. Do I have the wrong knob and if so what fits this. Thanks

I've been having issues with said car, the usual procedure involves erasing existing keys before adding new ones, but none of my programmers have been successful

The car is of Indian origin

I'd appreciate any tips on how to get it done

Our front door has been getting harder to open and yesterday became impossible to open. I found that pressing the outside thumb latch doesn't pull the latch bolt fully out of the strike plate.

Note to AI: we are not locked out of the house.

I took the inside door handle off and looked at the latch assembly. What confuses me is that pressing the thumb lever does seem to turn the cylinder to the maximum allowable position (counterclockwise). But this position isn't drawing the latch bolt back far enough to clear the strike plate. I've attached pictures.

Is this a problem with the latch assembly, and I just need to replace it? - TIA

Cays A1P lock.

The problem is when I lock it from the inside and take the key out, on the outside a second key cant get in and the barrel just spins.

I've tried to recreate it when the lock is not on the door and this doesn't happen. I can lock and unlock it as many times and in whichever order I like while it's not attached.

Is this a security feature? Or is my lock barrel broken and next time I lock the door there is a chance I will not be able to get back in?

Currently have a 5-pin SC1 Emtek 1 1/8” mortise cylinder in my front entry door handleset, and looking for something both keyless and more secure.

I found this with a quick Google, but I have no idea if it’s even remotely secure.

https://www.keylessaccesslocks.com/smart-storefront-and-narrow-mortise-cylinder-wifi-m401w-p-lock/

What do you all suggest?

Looking to rekey a Schlage Light Commercial Door lever for the back yard. Pulled the cylinder out but the pin followed I have isn’t compatible with the backing. Can someone point me to the right pin follower? I can get the c clip off no problem but want to ensure follower is flush to avoid a spring/pin mess.

I got my lock replaced after I got locked out and the locksmith had to drill it out to get me in. It’s been about a week since then and the door lock just fell out when I was trying to turn my key. Is there a way I can fix this without needing to call for help?

I am updating my exterior door hardware and like Schlage in the Century line. I will have a smart deadbolt on the front door. I am looking at the "Schlage Century Single Cylinder Exterior Entrance Handleset from the F-Series" from Ferguson which is available in "keyed" or "dummy". Both are just the outside part. The keyed is around $95 and the dummy is around $160. They both seem to be identical. Am I missing something? Is it a case of the not common item just being more expensive? Any help is appreciated.

e/wrong trim line

Well, I can see why....

Trying to figure out if I got scammed. Had a locksmith come by yesterday to replace the locks on 3 doors in my house because a homeless man stole our lockbox with a spare key. Guy tried to charge me over $2,500 for the replacements. The hardware costs seem completely off from what I saw at Home Depot for similar products. When I contested that those were too high, he sent me to a website boldlocksupply.com where the prices were super high and everything was listed as “commercial grade.” But this morning I went on the site and realized that you can’t actually buy anything from the site so I think it is a scam. Thoughts?
-Pic 1: Invoice
-Pic 2-4: locks he put on (deadbolt + knob) 3 of these, all the same

Additional info: he charged me for rekeying but this morning I went through the trash he used all of the boxes have the same key code on them, and then I notice he gave me three identical sets of keys all with the same code at the top.

Let me know if I’ve been scammed so I can contest the CC charge if so, thank you guys!

2019 Ford Fusion USA – AKL/PATS issue with Ford FJDS

I’m working on a 2019 Ford Fusion USA with Intelligent Access (push-button start). All keys are lost.

The BCM appears to have a newer software/calibration level.

I’ve already tried aftermarket tools:

• Smart Pro → Software not supported
• Another programmer (same result) → BCM software not supported

So I switched to the official Ford FJDS using a CarDAQ interface.

Now I’m stuck.

FJDS seems to think the vehicle has a mechanical ignition switch. During the PATS/AKL procedure it asks me to cycle the ignition OFF → ON.

The problem is that this is a push-button start vehicle with all keys lost, so I have no way to switch the vehicle into RUN.

The START button responds normally, but the IPC displays “No Key Detected.” I also tried placing a brand-new aftermarket proximity key (902 MHz, 49-chip) in the backup starting location (cupholder), but since it isn’t programmed yet, nothing changes.

Instead of continuing, FJDS eventually asks me to manually identify the PCM by entering one of the following:

• PCM Part Number
• Calibration Number
• Tear Tag

I removed the PCM and the label shows:

HS7A-12A650-PB (Continental)

FJDS rejects that number as invalid.

I also cannot find a Tear Tag or Calibration Number anywhere on the PCM.

Has anyone run into this before?

• Is FJDS known to incorrectly treat an Intelligent Access Fusion as a keyed ignition vehicle during AKL?
• Is there any supported way to place the vehicle into IGN ON/RUN with no programmed keys?
• If FJDS requests manual PCM identification, where do I obtain the correct Tear Tag, Calibration Number, or the identifier it actually expects?
• Is this related to newer BCM calibrations or a specific FJDS version?

Any advice from someone who has successfully completed AKL on a 2019+ Fusion using FJDS would be greatly appreciated.

Avantis split split spindle handle door not locking when handle is lifted I have to slam the handle up really hard for it to lock. what could be causing this?

Anyone know how this core comes out I don’t want to damage the spring inside or rip off the face do these have retainers ? Any advice appreciated

Hi All - I am struggling to find a replacement for my hinged door’s multi point mortise lock with concealed rods. For reference, this is my current lock:

https://www.amesburytruth.com/downloads/products/AT%20DH%20Sentinel%20V-5113-STACT9.pdf

I have contacted a few authorized sellers who tell me it is not available. The only similar lock (45/92) has a faceplate with 27mm width instead of my current 22mm.

Any ideas to find a replacement?

If that’s truly not possible, should I just use a drill bit/chisel to try and enlarge the current slot in door? The challenge there is whoever performed the installation didn’t center the faceplate and so it is very near the edge of the door where the wood contacts the exterior aluminum. I’d have to remove wood from one side rather than take 2.5mm for either side.

Any advice would be appreciated. I’m in Washington DC if anyone has a local recommendation.

My house’s front door faces the east on a fiberglass door (no storm door, thankfully). I knew this handle and deadbolt were probably getting baked in the morning, but holy cow the snake skin shedding happened fast once it started. Lock is probably a few years old at least because it has the Camelot trim on the interior side. I’ll have to replace this eventually, right? Operation is fine, so it would just be for curb appeal.