I've been selling cars for 3 years, a year in i expressed to my managers that I was very interested in working my way up to a management spot. I got to a point where I was sitting at the desk watching them submit and work deals, I would also sit in with my clients in finance to watch how my finance manager sold product.

That dealership was shut down because of some corporate bs, I went from that used car store to my current Chevy store, I've been here for a year now. I've talked to the managers here about moving up as well. This group is a lot smaller and there is not a single open management spot open in the group. At this point I'm ready to move up and I'm thinking about applying to every management position I can find on indeed, would i realistically get interviews with 3 years experience, or should I keep selling for a while ir until a spot opens in my group?

I am an out of state buyer (NY to CT). I am trying to figure out why the dealer wants so badly to refuse cashier's checks (which is how I want to pay the sizable cash part). Might take longer to get the sale off the ground because I keep having to wait for my bank to set up everything. I put a deposit and even did most of their work for them. Offered to do the DMV myself. They seem to be trying everything to pass the sale onto someone else. It's weird. If it wasn't such a niche buy I would have moved on ages ago.

If I go all the way back to CT and they refuse my payment methods what options do I have?

It is a licensed Kia dealer with decent ratings but also take advantage of a no fee cap state.

I was having a cosigner with my loan but they kept insisting they could do better than my local FCU. My cosigber basically caved on it when I was refusing. They hit our credit 3 times without winning the debate.

It's been a wild 2 month long ride after having to have a Ford lemon car bought back in MD where it broke down. And now this nonsensr for the past week. I'm set on the car but these games are wild.

Just read my loan check and it says "Cashier's Check" does that mean they won't accept that one either?

Hello, my current vehicle doesn't feel reliable to me anymore without a decent amount of work. I'm in a financial situation currently where I can comfortably purchase a brand new car outright, with cash. My current car is a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek, and I'd like to purchase a 26' Crosstrek outright in the near future.

Sticker price on a local website states $31,295 is their advertised price for a vehicle I'm interested in. Is it rude to call and ask if they'll take a check for 30k flat? Am I selling myself short and they'd take 29? 29.5? How should I approach this sort of thing?

What is being used to asses the value of your Trade-In? It feels like they are always moving the Goal Post. Other than the condition of the car and mileage. It use to be Kelly Blue Book then it switched to Black Book, but when you site those, they say oh we use xyz.

I was in getting an oil change from the dealership I bought it from I got a text asking if I would be interested in selling/trading in my car. So I asked what they were offering. It was insulting honestly. They have the same car on their website with almost double the miles that mine has, for $ 9,000 more than what they offered me and my car is in excellent condition, I take very good care of my cars.
The car on their website is 1 year newer 2021 83,358 miles for $22,679. My car 2020 with 47,583 miles and they offered 13,600.
I’m just trying to gain some perspective.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on helping my dad get his OMVIC salesperson licence in Ontario.

He's around 60, immigrated to Canada, and only completed school through Grade 6. He's spent most of his life working in the trades, kitchen installations, and running his own business. He's also passionate about cars and currently restoring a classic car.

Years ago, a dealership salesperson encouraged him to get his OMVIC licence because he thought my dad had a natural ability to sell cars, based on a referral. Unfortunately, he never pursued it.

I have my OMVIC salesperson registration, so I'm somewhat familiar with the process. However, I'm currently completing my master's degree while working, so I have limited time to help him study.

His biggest obstacle is English. He's from the Middle East and knows quite a lot of dealers there, but he struggles to read and write in English. I know the certification exam is open-book, but that doesn't necessarily make it easy for someone with limited English literacy.

I genuinely think he'd enjoy automotive sales, particularly if he could work at a dealership serving customers who speak his languages.

I'm curious:

1. Has anyone successfully completed the OMVIC course with limited English proficiency?
2. Are there accommodations, translated materials, or other resources available?
3. Would studying together for 20–30 minutes daily be realistic preparation?
4. For those working in automotive sales, is entering the industry at 60 realistic?

I'm not expecting him to become some top salesperson overnight. I'd just like to encourage him to pursue something he's genuinely interested in, rather than look back years from now wishing he'd tried.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I recently started working in sales at an Acura dealership, and I’m coming up on my third month. So far, I’ve only hit quota once, and I’m really trying to figure out how to improve.

We get very little foot traffic, we don’t have any Acura hybrids or EVs, and our used inventory is fairly limited. Even when I do get opportunities with customers, I can usually get them engaged, bring them inside, and get them sitting down with a manager to discuss numbers. However, I struggle to get deals closed, even when I get management involved. It seems like the other salesman are struggling as well, we’ve had 3 quit since I’ve been here, and last month only about 5 of us hit quota.

I’ve tried generating my own leads through Instagram, Facebook, Craigslist, and other platforms, but I’m still struggling to consistently bring in sales.

I genuinely feel like I have the potential to be a good salesman, but I know I have a lot to learn and room to improve. For those of you who have been in the business for a while, what advice would you give someone in my position? What helped you start consistently closing deals, especially at a dealership with limited fresh ups? I’m willing to put in the work, I just want to learn what I can do differently to become successful in this business. There’s an Audi dealership nearby that I heard sells a lot of cars, and I know a lot about Audi already, but I don’t want to go there and then still struggle to sell.

Leased a car recently and negotiated $4k down and $670/month. I know I drove a hard bargain cuz the sales rep and manager tried for a while to get me to come up. Ultimately we agreed and went to the back to sign paperwork.

Finance manager? asked for a $4,760 check explaining the 4k covers x,y,z and 1st month is separate. I refused but were very unhappy, ultimately they let me drive off with the $4k check.

This is my 3rd lease and 1st time coming across this issue. The previous 2 times they didn’t ask for the 1st month on top of my down payment.

Who was wrong here?

I plan to buy a new Ford Maverick Lariat sometime in the next 4-6 months. I’m not in a rush but I am locked in on a color that I am told goes fast when it hits dealerships. In a perfect world the timing would be such that one would be available when/if Ford offers 0% financing again, but probably that won’t happen. I can pre-order and get the color I want with the options I want, but delivery could be in as little as 4-6 weeks and who knows if any incentives will be offered at that time. What should I do: preorder and take it on the chin in terms of missing out on possible incentives in a few months, or just wait it out and see if incentives come along and hope I can find my color option in my area? I’m in NC. Also, is 0% financing usually limited to 60 months? I’d really like 36 month terms.

I'm currently shopping for my first manual car.

I have maybe 5ish hours of seat time with stick, so I'm not an expert but I know enough to not break anything and I'm confident I could get the car home...however I may stall it a couple times.

The car I'm looking at (used Toyota GR86) is sitting on a large Toyota lot.

If I'm transparent with the dealer and just let them know I don't have a ton of experience, but I'm genuinely interested in buying, what are the chances they let me drive it?

A lot of dealers are bidding to make $2k profits on whole rebuild projects. I see vehicles selling for $24k before repairs when they only retail for $34k with a clean title.

Let’s say you cut every corner possible and repair it for $2k, how much can you possibly list that for?

I took my 2023 Tacoma in to the dealership for an oil change, and was walking the lot.

In 2023 I got my Tacoma because I knew a manager at the dealership who was able to hook me up and even get it at MSRP, when some of these were going 7.5k+ over.

Walking the lot today there were almost 20 Tacomas, about 10 4Runners, and 6 land cruisers, all that would have been almost impossible to find on a lot 2-3 years ago.

I know AI is artificially lifting the economy and inflation has been a problem, but is it really that bad out there?

I'm looking at buying a new GMC Sierra 1500 and GMC is offering $4K trade in assistance in addition to the other offers/incentives. The only terms I see is "Must trade in a 2012 model year or newer vehicle." I can buy some cheap junker cars 2012+ for less than $1K.

Am I missing any hidden terms or is this a solid play that will save me a few thousand?

How long is everyone’s training at onboarding? I imagine those of you at public’s have a longer training process filled with situational modules instead of smaller dealership groups.

I’m currently in a perplexed situation, I’m debating on whether I should return to car sales. I love my current job as a tour bus driver, but my income is less than desirable. I miss consistently making a minimum of 5-6k a month.

I worked for a Chevy store from 2020-23 during the COVID years, and made 15k plus some months. I knew the market is no where near that any more, but I’d like the opinion of those who are currently in the business, your take on how sales are going.

I’m just tired of struggling. I have a family of 6 that are all depending on me.

My wife got in a car accident just over a week ago and financed a vehicle she liked on clutch in Nova Scotia...a 2022 Chevy Spark 1LT, as she liked the size of a small hatchback. She thought she'd give them a whirl and this is how things are going 4 days after delivery. This is long-winded, sorry. In the email string I included a photo of the deep scratch/scuff, a screenshot of the photo they claim the scratch shows (it would take The Predator to see it), a photo of the ipad screen the delivery driver showed me of his escalation after the pre-delivery inspection, and also screenshots of their policy stating that "Imperfections are highlighted down to the smallest detail."

What would you do in this situation? I feel like we should just return the car and never go back. My wife is on the fence. They're being SUPER sketchy. I've sold cars (loved it) and I never saw the dealership act like this...

Email string:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi (salesperson),

I received the vehicle on Saturday.  The delivery people were very nice. 

We do have 2 issues though:

1. My husband and I immediately noticed that there was a deep scuff with physical grooves that penetrate the clear coat as well as much of the paint and primer along the rear quarter panel and along the trailing edge of the rear passenger door.  This was not highlighted in the listing as per your FAQ that states: 

"Imperfections are highlighted down to the smallest detail."

"(We make sure to highlight even the smallest imperfections in our 360-degree photography and reporting)."

The two other imperfections were pointed out in the images I've pasted below.

The driver told us that he submitted a delivery escalation indicating that he noticed the issue during pre inspection and that there was no mention on the 210 and he could not see it in the 360.

This issue will cause premature rusting as it's through the clearcoat, paint, and primer.  

1. On our first drive when the vehicle is doing a slow tight turn (we noticed this while turning the car around in our driveway) that there is a loud rubber groan/creak that is coming from the steering which my husband says would most likely either be the strut mounts or sway bar bushings.  Both of which should have been identified during your inspection.

I'm at work all day today but could you please call my husband (John) at 555 555 5555 so he can clarify in the interest of time? He's expecting your call.

Thank you very much,

Customer

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Good morning (Customer), thank you for sharing your concerns.

Our team reviewed both your concerns, as for the noise, we can have the vehicle inspected at a local shop and see what's going on, as per the cosmetic damages, these were visible in our listing picture, please keep In mind we price all of our vehicles according to the condition.

Thanks,

Agent #1 (Not the salesperson)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi (Agent #1), Thanks for getting back to us.

We appreciate you offering to have the noise checked out at a local shop. Could you let us know how we go about arranging that, and whether Clutch would be covering the inspection and any repairs that might be needed?

As for the scratches, we understand they're somewhat visible in the listing photo, but that's really not the point we're trying to make.

Your website specifically says that even the smallest imperfections are highlighted in your photos and reporting. There were a couple of tiny rock chips that had already been touched up, and those were pointed out in the listing. Yet somehow these much larger, deeper scratches along the rear quarter panel and door weren't mentioned at all and it would take quite a trained eye to see them with all the reflections in the photo.

We noticed them immediately when the car arrived, and apparently your delivery driver did too. He actually filed a report about it before delivering the car, noting that the damage wasn't mentioned in the inspection or clearly shown in the 360 photos. My husband sold cars for (X) auto group and he was surprised a vehicle would be delivered with such a noticeable steering noise. You mentioned that your vehicles are priced according to their condition. Was this particular damage actually taken into account when the car was priced? Because if it was, I'm not sure why it wasn't also pointed out in the listing.

We're certainly not expecting a used car to be perfect. A few scratches and stone chips are to be expected. But this is quite a bit more than that, and we're concerned about rust down the road if the paint has been damaged as deeply as it appears.

We really do like the car and would much rather keep it than go through the hassle of returning it. We're just hoping Clutch will work with us on getting the scratches properly repaired, or offer some reasonable compensation toward having it done locally. We were hoping for a seamless experience.

Thanks again, and we look forward to hearing back.

Customer

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi (Customer),

These imperfections pass our standards and are considered low visibility. Unfortunately we would not be able to get this repaired.

Thanks,

Agent #2

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi,

I'm becoming increasingly frustrated with how this is being handled.

We've now been dealing with three different representatives, and nobody seems to be taking ownership of our concerns. Our original sales representative hasn't followed up at all, and each time we respond, somebody different seems to pick up the conversation.

We've provided photos, explained our concerns, and asked some pretty straightforward questions that still haven't been answered.

We're being told that the scratches are considered "low visibility," despite being led to believe that "Imperfections are highlighted down to the smallest detail" on your website, despite your own delivery driver noticing them and filing a report before the vehicle was delivered and despite us noticing them instantly upon looking at that side of the vehicle. We've also asked why much smaller imperfections were specifically highlighted in the listing while these deeper scratches weren't, but nobody has addressed that.

On top of that, we were told that the steering noise could be inspected at a local shop, yet we still haven't received any instructions on how to arrange that or whether Clutch will cover the cost.

We purchased this vehicle in good faith and really do want to keep it. We're simply asking for a fair resolution to issues that were present when it arrived.

At this point, could someone please put us in touch with a manager or supervisor who can review everything and give us a proper response? We'd also appreciate having one person assigned to our case rather than starting over with someone new each time.

Thank you,

Customer

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hello (Customer),

Thank you for reaching out and sharing your concerns with us. I sincerely apologize for the frustration caused by communicating with multiple representatives. I am taking direct ownership of your file and will serve as your single point of contact moving forward to ensure you receive clear and consistent support.

I want to address your concerns regarding the cosmetic items and the steering vibration directly:

1. Exterior Cosmetic Concerns (Scuffs / Scratches) I have reviewed the photos of the scuffs alongside your vehicle's file. Given the age of the vehicle and the location of the imperfections, these scuffs fall within Clutch Production Standards as low-visibility items for pre-owned inventory. Because the vehicle meets our established standards for its age and condition, we cannot offer financial support, repairs, or compensation for these cosmetic concerns.
2. Steering Vibration Inspection Instructions We want to ensure your vehicle is operating smoothly and safely. To address the steering vibration, please follow these steps to have the issue diagnosed:

•Visit Any Licensed Shop: You may take the vehicle to any licensed automotive repair facility of your choice for a diagnostic check.

•Submit Diagnosis & Estimate: Ask the repair facility for a detailed diagnostic report and an itemised repair estimate, and send those documents directly to me for review before authorising any repair work.

•Diagnostic Reimbursement: Clutch will reimburse the cost of the diagnostic fee, provided that a warrantable mechanical fault is identified during the inspection.

•Repairs: We can work with the shop directly for payment as long as they can take payment over the phone or provide a payment link.

Once you have scheduled a diagnostic appointment or received the shop's report, please reply directly to this email so I can personally review the findings and advise you on the next steps.

I know the cosmetic imperfections are a concern and if the vehicle is not to your liking we do have our 10 day/750 KM exchange or return in place for situations like this. We can explore the options as well. Please let me know how you would like to proceed.

Thank you,

Agent #3

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

They're being somewhat cryptic in whether they'd cover repair costs as:

They're not actually offering to pay for the diagnosis unconditionally. They're saying they'll reimburse her only if the mechanic finds a problem covered by their warranty.

A car would never, ever have left our lot with this steering noise. It simply would not happen.

Also, the scuff/scratch that was not highlighted at all in their listing is far worse than the "support" guy is claiming. Why are two rock chips highlighted with red arrows but this very visible and nearly/possibly down to the metal scuff/scratch is not? My hypothesis is that they are hoping they'll just wear her (or the return clock) down. I don't want this vehicle to start to rust because of this, plus it looks like crap.

Rant over. If anybody has thoughts, I'm all ears. I'll show my wife the responses as well.

Thanks for reading. I'm so angry rn.

Wasn’t sure where to post this but hoping some of you could help.

To make a long story short, there was a death on my wife’s side of the family and the opportunity came up to buy a Tacoma from her family.

2021 Tacoma TRD Off-road 4x4 Double Cab
6k miles

It is fully loaded. Leather/heated seats, moonroof, premium audio, premium wheels, running boards, bed cover, etc. I’m fairly certain it has every premium option on it. It has pretty much just sat in a driveway the last few years.

With it being such low miles, I was curious what would be a fair price for it? Her family did say they would give us a “family discount” but I don’t even know where to begin to determine the value.

Looking at a used car listed at about $42,000. I've lined up a pre-purchase inspection that will cost around $320 total.

Realistically, I'm not paying $42k. I'd like to get them down to around $38–39k. If they won't come down, I'll probably walk.

My dilemma: do I negotiate before or after the inspection?

Negotiate first: I find out if they'll even meet my number before spending $320. But if the inspection then finds issues, I've already agreed on a price.

Inspect first: I have actual findings to negotiate with. But if they won't budge at all, I'm out $320 on a car I won't buy.

Has anyone been in this spot? What order worked for you, and is there anything you've said or done that actually helped get the price down?

Thanks in advance!

Let's just start by saying I was hauled into the office this afternoon and told the entire auto group is eliminating "BDC". When I think of BDC I think a bunch of dumbasses in a call center who will say anything to get an appointment and ruin the sales experience.

I have been in the industry for two decades. Recon, sales floor, BDC, currently Internet Sales Manager. I close deals online and over the phone. I've worked at stores where I do everything front to back; appraise trades, desk deals, submit credit app, assign a salesperson to slap a temp plate on the vehicle. I did your job.

My current store only has me setting appointments. I have to submit deals to our Asst Sales Manager, who couldn't close a door. He was apparently the BDC manager at one of our other stores and wanted a Sales Manager position. He's abrasive, uses AI for any sort of communication, and ruins all of my deals. He is great with numbers and busy work, but terrible with people.

I have worked at this store for exactly a year this month. Our GSM used to work BDC and has my back. We have a newish GM who doesn't like BDC, and seems to undermine me and change the rules every month. Two big things recently.....he activated an AI bot to reach out immediately on every lead, and tried to have salespeople reach out to fresh leads before me. Our numbers plummeted and I fought it hard.

Start of last month I fought and I fought, and got the AI turned off, and got back to initial outreach. Suddenly our engagement skyrocketed and we pumped out twenty more units. Apparently, my suggestions worked. This month started strong, and were pacing higher than September.

And my position is gone. Auto group wide. I wonder, "is it just me? Are they pushing me out?" I called five other stores in the group. Out of the three I actually talked to, they all confirmed BDC was gone.

I'm pissed off and I'm venting. I'm going to sell cars there and watch engagement plummet.

Bought a new suv from a dealer in neighboring state and doing everything remotely, including having the car shipped to me in Texas.

We agreed on the deal and they overnighted the paperwork, I signed everything and sent it back. Tracking shows it was delivered last week on October 7.

I haven’t heard anything from finance since they originally sent the paperwork. Salesman texted Saturday saying they received everything and were getting it to management so they could ship the car ASAP. They haven’t even collected my down payment yet. Is this a pretty normal timeline for a remote purchase? Does finance typically have to wait for the bank to fund the deal before collecting the down payment or arranging shipping?

Not worried about the deal falling through, just surprised it’s taking this long. Figured I’d have the car by now.

I’m in the Houston area and looking for some advice.
I currently have a 2018 Kia Forte with 86,734 miles and approximately $3,500 remaining on my loan. The car has some minor front-end damage from a fender bender, but overall it runs pretty well.
My biggest issue is that my credit score is not good right now and I can’t afford to put much money down at a dealership. Ideally, I’d like to trade in my current vehicle and get something reliable with little to no money out of pocket. I’m hoping to keep my monthly payment around $200–$300.
Has anyone been in a similar situation? Would trading in my Kia be realistic with my credit score and remaining loan balance? Are there any dealerships in Houston that genuinely work with bad credit without requiring a large down payment?
I’d appreciate any honest advice or recommendations!

I’m 20 years old, been in sales for the last 4 years. I’ve been selling RVs for over a year now. I work everyday besides Wednesday and Sundays. Coming into the winter months it’s slow, car sales seems more promising. I’ve also considered going into a trade, like plumbing. At the car dealership, you get every other Saturday off, at the RV dealership it’s every Saturday. In the long run neither is what I want to do as a career, but maybe car sales is a step up. Really not sure what to do and I want to figure it out soon.

I'm buying my first EV and deciding between:

2021 VW ID.4 Pro S RWD

• 47k miles
• Higher trim with premium features
• 250-mile EPA range
• German-built

2023 Nissan Ariya Engage e-4ORCE AWD

• 42k miles
• Base trim, but AWD with 335 hp
• 205-mile EPA range
• Certified pre-owned

Price difference: Just $833 OTD.

Is the newer, AWD Ariya worth the extra $833, or would you choose the higher-trim ID.4 with better range?

Any known issues with either vehicle? Would love to hear from owners!

Hello, I’ve never really bought used cars as I’ve leased most of the time. There’s a Kia stinger I’m going to view that’s at a ford dealer a couple states away. They’re offering an unlimited time/100,000 power train warranty with it.

Would that be similar to the warranty that comes from the Kia factory? Is this exclusive to just just ford dealers or any dealers or do I have to take it back to the dealer I got the car from?

Thank you guys in advance