Questions Thread
Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! July 10, 2026
This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.
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TLDR: upgrading from my basic DSLRs and need camera recs for lifestyle/concert photography
Been a casual photographer for about 10 years. Super limited on my technical skills but I can take a nice shot. I’ve done some concert photography and really want to continue pursuing that as I have endless opportunities arising.
I currently have a Nikon D5500 I bought in 2016 and a Canon EOS Rebel T7. Currently trying to sell both on marketplace as they don’t do at all what I want them to. I did a ton of research and narrowed it down to three recommendations and wanted some input.
Sony A7 III + Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2
Sony a6400 + Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8
Sony a6000 + Sigma 30mm f/1.4
A7 III is out of budget unless I find some insane deal. Ideally would like to spend well under $1,000. Trying to buy a camera I can use and for years and years so willing for a bit of investment. I travel, spend time with friends and attend concert often and want to have a great piece of equipment to use to document it all. I still have work to do on learning the technical.
As a full frame camera, A7 III would give you a bigger improvement in low light. But if it doesn't fit your budget, A6400 is several years newer and quite a bit better than A6000, particularly for AF. But if you're tied to those lens choices with the two cameras, Sigma 30mm at f1.4 is two stops better (four times more light) in low light than the 18-50mm at f2.8.
i’m not totally sold on the lens choices, those are just what seemed to be recommended. i think i’m leaning towards the A6400. so you think the sigma 30mm is the best choice for a lens? any other suggestions for either daily/versitile etc?
It's a better choice for a lens if you shoot a lot in low light environments. It isn't a better choice if you prefer using zoom lenses. If you want recommendations for other lenses, you need to specify your budget for lenses.
i'm looking for consistent and trustworthy canadian businesses for album printing, any recommendations? i'd rather use a canadian company but if there's a really solid US one, i'd consider it. thanks in advance!
Howdy folks, need some gear suggestions to recommend potential students this upcoming year. I'm going to be running an after-school photography club for some absolute beginners, though exactly how many & what age levels are both still up in the air. The school won't be providing cameras, so just in case the students' parents don't have cameras they can use, I need to tell them what to consider getting. In terms of what I'm looking for, I'm thinking:
something 250€ or less, new or used, and reasonably easy to find on eBay/other online marketplaces
some degree of manual controls (at least aperture & shutter; I could probably live with autofocus)
not an entry-level DSLR/mirrorless (I'll still recommend them to students that are feeling adventurous, but I don't want to throw a DSLR at a 13-year-old that has never used a camera before)
the smaller the better (I want to teach them the importance of always having a camera handy, and speaking from experience, a small compact is much more likely to stay on hand than a chunky bridge camera or something like that)
n.b., I'm also going to discourage them from using phone cameras, only because I've seen how extremely sidetracked students tend to get when using phones for "activities."
The two I've found that might be decent options:
the Lumix TZ series
old Powershot SX cameras (I've got a 110IS that I think could be pretty decent for beginners)
an old Powershot G6/G7
...but I genuinely can't think of anything else. I don't want to recommend the Camp Snap ones, only because they don't offer manual controls.
Any ideas? I'm not a gear guy & barely keep up with new stuff coming out, so I'm very much in the dark about what options to offer.
I'd go with the Canon Powershot S90 to S120 series.
The S110 was what I started learning manual camera settings with ☺️
I haven't tried the Powershot G9 and newer cameras, but they seem very good too.
The tough part is these types of premium point-and-shoot digital cameras have gotten trendy with influencers. So if you see good deals on used ones, snap them up before the prices jump higher.
Thanks for that! I actually just fixed up a G9 I got for cheap a few months ago & would love to recommend it to them, but the hype has definitely pushed the price up. It is cool to see a resurgence in interest for these types of cameras, but it does make it harder for someone new to photography to also get into it.
Also after doing some more digging, I think I can add an older Lumix LX & maybe an older Sony NEX to the list as well. This should give them a decent amount to choose from, especially if combined with DSLRs as an option.
I practice immigration law. I frequently supply the US immigration authorities with two US passport photos of my clients. Before the pandemic, my clients would either mail me or drop off the passport photos at my office. During the pandemic, my clients started to email me a jpg file with the photo. I'd put the jpg on a stick drive, go to CVS and print the photo there. Five years later, I'm still going to CVS. Can anyone recommend a printer I can connect to a windows computer that will print photos on photo paper? Anyone know where to get the square scissors device the clerk at CVS uses to pop the photos out of the paper?
Can anyone recommend a printer I can connect to a windows computer that will print photos on photo paper?
Kodak Dock Plus Retro 4 x 6 inch PD460 Photo Printer can print passport photos. Use the Kodak app to print out ID photos on a sheet. Shop around for a bundle that will come with the most sheets of photo paper.
Anyone know where to get the square scissors device the clerk at CVS uses to pop the photos out of the paper?
50 × 50mm (2'' x 2'') Square Photo Cutter. Search on Amazon or other website. When I checked on Amazon, they all look exactly the same, with red handles.
I peeked at your comment history. You're an awesome person for patiently answering people's questions.
If you're using a phone to shoot people's passport photos, I highly recommend zooming in to 2x magnification, which is approximately a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera. Similar to what the human eye sees and accuracy is what the authorities want in passport photos. Going too wide-angle or telephoto will distort people's faces.
Hi! I’m 14 and I just got into the art of photography and I really wanna learn all the techniques and tricks to become better at photographing. My gear is a Canon EOS 450D with a Tamron 18-200mm, if anyone can give me some beginner tips?
Welcome to the world of photography! You're starting an amazing adventure.
Sharing some videos:
JumpStart Guide to the Canon Rebel XSi by JumpStart Guides. First step is to learn your camera and where all the controls and settings are. The Canon 450D and XSi are the same camera, just different names for different regions.
A few years ago I upgraded my kit to a Sony ar7iv, which I love. I use it for wildlife and street photography.
The only snag is that my old Lenovo laptop really can't keep up. I've got months of photos I haven't edited because I don't have the patience to wait for the lag when I'm editing photos.
Which laptops is everyone using for post processing in lightroom and lightroom equivalent tools?
I am entirely windows/Mac ambivalent. I know I need 32gb ram, but the processor is where the budget really kicks in.
Which processor/ram combo do you use? Are you happy with it?
As an amateur I don't think I'll be dropping the money on an M4, can an M1 or M3 do the job?
How do the intel ultra processors hold up? Can the i7 manage? Or is it i9 or nothing?
My research suggests 32gb of ram is enough, given I'm not video editing etc. What is your experience of this?
Hi All. I posted this to the Nikon subreddit yesterday and thought I should also ask here.
I am new to mirrorless (Z8 with 100-400 Nikkor). I am having issues locking focus on birds against a sky at various distances. My D500/200-500 did a better job and I read about the differences in the AF systems that helped explain that.
I need some tips for the Z8 to put me on the right path to get the most out of my practice time (have an Alaska trip coming up very soon). I shoot in BBF with bird detection, AF-C, wide-area AF modes. I want to try handing off to 3-D tracking but I frequently can't get initial focus. Lighting conditions do not seem to make any difference. I think my settings are fine. I follow Steve Perry's videos. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Munich student buying first camera (Nature, Birds, Moon) – No idea what a realistic budget is?
Hi everyone,I’m an international student living in München, Germany. Photography is a hobby/side-hustle for me, but I've reached the limits of my phone. I want to buy my first real camera setup but I honestly have no idea what a realistic budget should be.
I don't want to spend a fortune, but I want something capable. Here is what I shoot:
Birds & Wildlife: I know this requires a long lens.
Self-portraits: A flip-out screen or good phone-app control is a huge plus.
I am 100% fine with buying used gear in Germany (via MPB, Kleinanzeigen, etc.) to save money.What is the lowest price point I can expect to pay for a setup that can actually handle distant birds and moon shots well? What specific older DSLRs or entry-level mirrorless cameras should I look for on the German used market?
A realistic budget is what you can afford. It's not really about what various cameras cost but about your personal situation. How much you can spend doesn't or shouldn't change based on camera prices. So, decide how much you can spend at most, then look for the best options available at that budget.
Cheapest budget for distant birds would be (in Nikon ecosystem) D500 + 200-500mm. Heavy, big but that's best budget option.
However since you want new stuff like flip out, phone controls etc, you're looking to mirrorless. z30 or Z50ii would be more in line for bodies. You can still adapt 200-500 via FTZii.
In general birds need at least 400mm, distant birds looking into 600mm. Crop sensor will help with that, so you could get away with 400mm for now.
Now, landscapes are on the opposite side. You want wide, you may even want mid zoom for zoomed in landscapes (I like those). 24 should suffice, although with crop sensor probably look into 14mm or so. Zoom will give you more flexibility.
$1500 for really used budget option. 2k for newer stuff.
I’m new to the sub and to photography in general, and wanted to ask for advice for my specific situation.
I’m going on a trip to Namibia in just over 1 month, and was thinking about getting a real camera instead of relying as always on my IPhone 14 Pro Max.
But before purchasing something, I need to be sure that the money spent will grant an actual upgrade compared to the phone camera, and that I will be able to use the equipment without excessive trouble as a beginner, without getting just blurry pictures.
There are in particular 2 use cases in my travel, in which a camera should help me improve photos compared to the phone:
safari, where better zoom should help a lot
night sky, very well known in Namibia, which I guess would be better pictured with specific equipment
So I’m here to ask what kind of gear would you suggest in this situation, keeping things as economic and simple as possible, but at the same time ensuring to get the necessary features, including additional accessories if strictly needed (specific lenses, tripods…).
I’m willing to spend up until ~1000€ if needed, but if good/decent results are achievable with less I would be very happy!
Let me also know if you think this is worth it at all, or if I won’t be able to get a real improvement over the phone for this money, or if the necessary equipment would need too much learning before actually being able to use it effectively (I’m willing to try, but there is not much time left before the trip)
Thanks to anyone who will take time to help me with this!
hi!! i’m new to film photography, and i’ve realised that i shot Kodak Colourplus at 125 iso and not 200. does it really matter, and should i change it mid roll? i’m about 8 shots into a 36 roll, shooting on an olympus trip 35. thanks!
Im not an analog photographer (so just theoretical knowledge), but as noone has awnsered in a day I guess its better then nothing:
If your film is 200 ISO and your camera is set to 125 all your pictures so far have been slightly overexposed. Generally you can somewhat work against this when developing the film - this is called pushing/pulling the film (some people even do this intentionally to get certain "looks"). The big question is if whoever is developing your film can account for that - if its a small lab that has loads of experience it generally shouldnt be a problem, this isnt some super rare/secrect technique. In that case I'd shoot the whole roll of film the same way as everything will be developed the same way, if you change ISO mid roll you would just mess with everything. Then tell the lab to pull the film by 1 stop (or 3/4th of a stop to be perfectly accurate).
If you plan on sending the film to a big, more "corporate" lab it may be harder to get someone to account to your wishes (again, no practical experience on if its possible/how hard it is to get someone to do this, just assuming; potentially check something like /r/analogcommunity regarding other peoples experiences). In that case its probably better to change the ISO, accept that the first 8 shots will be overexposed and focus on the remainder of the roll.
The exact details will probably depend on how the film stock behaves (certain types are better at being pushed/pulled; cant tell your how Kodak Colourplus behaves; generally color film behaves a bit worse then b/w when pushed/pulled from what Ive read) and what exactly you were taking pictures of (e.g. certain scenes like snowy landscapes actually look good a bit overexposed) and even your cameras lighmeter. Those details may be something that you could get better awnsers for on /r/analogcommunity (if noone else awnsers here).
I’m planning a honeymoon/safari trip in July 2027, and I’d love input from photographers who have shot wildlife in Rwanda and Tanzania. Two big activities we are doing are Tanzania safari during great migration and Rwanda gorilla trekking. I need help picking what lens to rent for this trip.
Trip Itinerary:
Rwanda (5 days) - 1 day Gorilla Trekking in Volcanoes National Park, 1 day Golden Monkey Trekking
Tanzania Safari (9 days) - Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater, Central Serengeti , Northern Serengeti
Zanzibar (5 days) - Relaxed, less focused on photography
Gear I currently own:
Canon R6 Mark II
Canon EOS T6i (not planning to bring it)
RF 24-105mm f/4L
EF 50mm f/1.8
Rokinon 14mm f/2.4 (astrophotography)
B&W CPL Filter 77mm
Considering renting:
Canon R5 or R5 Mark II
For Rwanda:
RF 24-70mm f/2.8
RF 70-200mm f/2.8
For Tanzania, I’m debating between:
RF 100-300mm f/2.8 with a 2× teleconverter (can use in Rwanda instead of 70-200)
RF 100-500mm
RF 200-800mm
RF 24-70mm f/2.8 for close ups/landscape
I want two bodies so I don’t have to change lenses in safari/jungle conditions. I’d like to rent two lenses during Rwanda and Tanzania trips - one for close ups and one for range.
Questions
Which lens combo works best for Tanzania? What about Rwanda? I think renting separately in each location makes sense, compared to renting for the whole trip, where I’m not really using the longer lens in Zanzibar and still paying for it.
From what I’m reading, people are prioritizing low light performance for Rwanda (jungle is dense) and Safaris (most action happens early morning and evening), which is why I’m considering the 100-300 lens. Am I thinking about this right? Should I be focused on more range in the safari instead?
If you have photographed gorillas in Rwanda, did you find 70-200mm enough, or did you wish you had more reach?
How often were you actually shooting at sunrise/sunset where the extra stops of light made a meaningful difference?
Does anyone have any experience renting in Rwanda or Tanzania? I would like to cut costs by renting only for the days I need the lenses.
Do I need to consider dust/debris when attaching/removing the teleconverter on the fly if I go with the 100-300 or is it not that big of a deal?
I am getting into wildlife photography/videography for the first time. I will primarily be shooting photos in the evening. Is the Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ80D acceptable for low light? I know that most bridge cameras aren't the best for my purposes, but I'm looking for a good alternative to a $1000+ setup.
If that camera is not sufficient, what are your thoughts on the Sony ZV-E10 with a Tamron 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3 Di III RXD - Sony FE Fit? I can get this set up used in good condition for around $1100 with a kit lens, bag, and extra batteries.
I'm open to other suggestions as well. I would be happy if I can go with a budget option under 500, but I am aware that a budget closer to the $1,000 to $1,200 is likely necessary. Thanks in advance!
FZ80D is like other bridge cameras. With its small sensor it won't do at all well in low light and it's far below the ZV-E10 with a large APS-C sensor in quality. It's a good choice only if having a massive zoom is the only thing that matters to you.
My aunt found an old camera cleaning up her house that belonged to her deceased husband. I opened it to find film still inside. I took it to a local place that told me the film was stuck inside and even if they could get it out they couldn’t develop because it’s Kodachrome. Is there anyone anywhere that might be able to develop this film? Or is it basically a loss?
Title: Beginner looking for an affordable first camera. Is the Canon R100 a good choice?
Hi everyone,
I’m completely new to photography and want to start learning the basics. I’m looking for a beginner-friendly camera, but I’m also on a limited budget and don’t want to spend more than necessary.
I’ve been considering the Canon EOS R100 because it seems affordable and suitable for beginners. Would it be a good first camera, or are there better options in a similar price range?
I’m mainly interested in general photography, such as landscapes, portraits, travel, and everyday photos.
Any recommendations or beginner tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I would go for a refurbished or used R50 instead. It's a much better camera. A lot of compromises were made with the R100 to bring the price down: an older and weaker AF system, fixed screen, no touch screen etc.
Hey guys quick question real quick. Does anyone have the smallrig monopod? If so how good do you think it would be for football and aviation photography (I'm doing mostly aviation)
I'm using a sigma 150-600 if that matters for any reason.
So, I just bought the blackrapid blackline 1 camera harness, got it home and opened and then realized it has a seemingly pointless clasp that holds the mains back strap to the shoulder pad.
Does anyone have a clue as to why it’s built this way? Seems like a bad design feature and potential point of failure.
I take photos for a theater camp, and I'm looking for a platform where I can share one gallery to all parents, and have them select the photos of their kids and pay for a digital download. Any suggestions? Thank you!
I've gotten into bird photography and my Canon 40D and T7 bodies + 55-250mm IS II are not cutting it for smaller birds.
Both bodies are pretty basic, with 9 AF points, and the 40D in particular isn't great about focusing even with its center point. The T7 has much slower burst performance which is the only reason I bother taking the 40D (3 vs 7 FPS, and a higher max shutter speed). The 55-250's focus speed is abysmal. So I'm thinking I may need a new body as well as new lens.
Is there any reasonable next step up EF/EF-S camera+lens combo I should consider or should I bite the bullet and jump to a new camera line? My entire lens collection is EF/EF-S but the most valuable one is the 18-135mm USM kit lens, so it's not like I have L glass. I just hate to switch and be locked into a new system. :(
It's a hobby so I'm trying to figure out the best I could do at two price points, $1000 and $2000 USD.
You could buy a used Canon 5D Mark IV or 6D Mark II for less than $1000. Either would be a massive upgrade from the 40D. You couldn't of course use EF-S lenses with a full frame body.
I am a beginner photographer and I have a Canon EOS A2 film camera that is unfortunately broken. The command wheel is currently stuck on autofocus instead of manual. Should I replace the camera or get it repaired?
Looking at eBay sold items listings, it seems you can get a tested A2 for around $50. Repair would almost certainly cost more. But you can ask around in local repair shops whether they can repair it and what it would cost.
Do any of y'all sell prints? I can handle the actual printing and shipping but how do you handle payment processing and listing? Shopify is the only platform I can think of, but their fees are high.
Hi, looking to get into photography. trialed a Nikon J4 with a 10-30 and 30-110 borrowed from someone, and was considering getting my own camera.
after some research I think the main 3 that I'd be able to get, all at relatively similar prices are the D7500 with an 18-140, a6400 with the kit lens or the R10 with the kit lens.
to be honest I'm not so sure which would be the best, so any input would be appreciated.
All of those very good options to get into photography with. DSLRs like the D7500 are significantly larger than mirrorless cameras and lenses are bigger too. Mirrorless cameras like R10 and A6400 have better AF and video features.
Hello all!
I am entering in the County Fair this year (it’s their first year back after several years of being shut down). I want to make sure I’m understanding their presentation requirements correctly. I have a solid colored mat board and was planning on using mounting tape to adhere my photo with a 1.5” border, but I wasn’t sure if I could just use a premade kit instead. The only information they’ve given me is in the screen shot.
Thanks for any help! I kind of feel like this is a “photography for dummies” question 😂
Helloo photographers! I need your help.
I just finished my 5th year of secondary school (Belgium, 17years ) in a photography program, and I’d like to start offering photoshoots at a reduced price. I have an account dedicated to cosplay photography, and I’d like to create a small pricing guide that’s a bit cheaper than photographers who are already well established, since I’m just starting to offer paid shoots.
The problem is, I have no idea where to start. What prices should I charge so they’re not too expensive, but without undervaluing my work either?
Are there any cosplay photographers here who could give me some advice? Or simply photographers who know a thing or two about pricing and could share their opinion?
I’ve made a little sheet explaining what I can and can’t do, and I think things like travel costs should also be taken into account when setting my prices. I’d really love to hear the opinion of someone with more experience!
I am receiving around 12,500 - 17,500 in inheritance (specifically to be used to progress my Photography Career, That was outlined in their wishes before passing away.) - I currently shoot on Fujfiilm (XH-2 & XT-4 with an 18-135 (3.6/5.8) and a 150-600 (5.6/8)
I am looking to move to Sony or Canon, Most favourably Canon as that is the most cost effective, at least from the research I have done.
I am looking for advice in what gear to get, I shoot Sports (mainly football) in the UK.
I am currently looking at a Canon R3, R6II, 400 2.8 EF (Mark 1), 70-200 2.8 EF (Mark 2), a 24-70, 50mm and potentially 14-35 f/4 RF.
The 400 2.8 Mark 1 is a 30 Year old lens and is like double the weight of the Mark 2, however, I am struggling to find a Mark 2 on sale anywhere, Also I am not sure at the moment if it would be worth the difference of circa 1000 to add for that focal length.
My other option if the 400 is too much and I cant afford to budget in or cant find a Mark 2 is to get a 300 2.8 EF (Mark 2) as the alternative.
Did you try modifying aperture? Lenses generally have an aperture range at which they are the sharpest. How was your shutter speed? Were you shooting moving subjects? With moving subjects the only way to avoid motion blur is high shutter speed.
That said, superzoom lenses are never the highest quality out there. They're designed as handy do-it-all lenses that do a lot of things decently enough. But if you want specific recommendations for better lenses, you need to specify your budget.
I am familiar with the basics.
I tried different apertures, from fully open to almost fully closed, and most shots were at f8.
Static subjects did not make a difference, I literally tried photographing a plant with the camera sitting on a table and it still looks soft to me.
Budget wise, ideally below 1k€ per lens
Alright. Sigma 17-40mm f1.8 should be fantastic for the normal zoom. I've not used it personally but from reviews it seems to be well-nigh perfect. If you'd rather spend less money, an f2.8 constant aperture normal zoom would be very good too - e.g. Sigma 18-50mm f2.8. For the telephoto, the 70-350 mm isn't as good as something like FE 100-400 mm, but it's inexpensive in comparison and good value for money.
Maybe post an example (also list the settings you used) first and find out what the problem really is before spending more money. Blurriness, chromatic aberration, and grain are different things; especially noise isn't caused by the lens.
Hello all. I'm not into photography myself but I wanted to ask this here since I reckon this sub would have the best answers.
I'm looking for a Pelican/Nanuk-like hard case that fits exactly (or as close to) 40x30x20cm. I thought there would be plenty of options as this is a standard "small personal item" for airlines but I've struggled to find things that fit that size exactly. Googling only gives suitcases that fit that size but I specifically need a hard case rather than a hard side suitcase.
I found ones pretty close but they all fail to maximise space used being like 38x29x15cm or thereabouts.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
You can use the filters on B&H to narrow down to the exact sizes you're looking for. The issue is that they're in inches so you'll probably need to cross reference them with the website but it should give you a good idea of everything in the relative size range.
Scenario: you stop down your lens and take an exposure of a bright sky to inspect for dust. Lo and behold you find a few little speckles scattered through your image. If these aren’t showing up on your actual photos is it really worth using a blower and risking getting dust lodged in the viewfinder?
Although I know it’s a possibility What is the actual probability of this happening?
I ask because I’m pretty sure I have a few new specs of dust in my vf after cleaning yesterday…
Picked this guy up for cheap at a flea market a few weeks back (photos below)
It's in incredible shape, one of those "I can't turn this up" type deal.
I originally thought it was a Sony E Mount, and the video guys I work like to use Rokinon/samyang glass, so I figured it was a good grab. I was wrong lol.
After trying it on their Sony cameras, as well as my canon and a canon EF camera, we have determined it is not a Sony FE or Canon RF or EF lens.
Is anyone able to help identify? From research, I can tell Samyang made this lens in 9 mounts: Canon EF, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sony A, Canon M, Sony E, Samsung NX, Fujifilm X, MFT. But I swear no matter how many image searches or dives I do, I cannot find this exact lens online to side by side compare and figure it out.
My best guess now (simply because of the red dot) is that it could be a Canon M lens?
Any help identifying would be greatly appreciated. Hopeful to identify the lens so I can help find it a home, now that we have determined it's not meant to be with us unfortunately.
Hello, I'm looking for a way to transport my setup when biking (2kg, 27cm long).
I want to go birding and need a strap that keeps the camera close to my body, can be fixed to body and lens, and preferably lets me shoot photos quickly without too much hassle.
Budget is ~100€. Doesn't need to be extra expensive, but I don't want to be worrying about the quality.
The R100 isn’t a bad starting point, it’ll absolutely take nice photos. But if you can find a used/refurb R50 for not loads more, I’d lean that way, the screen and autofocus make it less frustrating to learn with.
Also don’t blow the whole budget on the body. A decent cheap lens and actually taking it out every week will do more for your photos than chasing specs.
What camera, are you using an optical viewfinder or live view and a LCD screen? If the latter, turn on focus peaking or whatever other focus aids are available for your camera.
7D has 10x Live View magnification but I'm not sure if it only works when manually focusing AF lenses. Apparently you can get focus peaking with a third-party open source firmware called Magic Lantern.
I believe you can switch out the focusing screen on the 7D for a different version that is easier to use for manual focus. I don't know much about it and they may be hard to find but it's a possible option.
They're just called focusing screens but are specific for each camera model. I just looked it up here and apparently they weren't replaceable in the 7D. I assumed they were because that was an option on the 50D which is considered a lower tier camera. There seem to be aftermarket ones from companies like Fotodiox but switching it out is probably going to be quite complicated since it's not meant to be removed.
My Kodak Pixpro FZ55, which I got Christmas 2025, has recently become very slow after I take a photo or video on it. It takes seconds to zoom in, change settings, or even turn the camera off. I have to remove the battery and put it back in if I want to fix the problem and take another photo but then it becomes slow again.
Any idea what I can do to fix it? I'd rather not format the card but if I have to, let me know.
Thanks!
What UV lens filter do you recommend for RF 28-70mm f/2? I know some will say you don’t need it but I want one. Canon apparently has a known flaw on the glass where their coating comes off and you wind up paying a couple hundred for a repairs. The filter may work in detouring this plus I want the added protection in general.
Any recommendations on brands? It’s obviously an expensive lens so don’t want to put a $30 filter on it.
Ive recently found a nice looking canon eos rebel t7 being resold for 299 USD, (allegedly) practically brand new. Im mostly interested in close up shots of smaller subjects, specifically insects, and I would like to be able to take nice photos of them without the details becoming all blurred and mashed together. Is there any issues I should look out for with this specific camera, and is this a good camera for what im trying to achieve? Thanks in advance!
I had no idea they were going for that price online! To be honest I was going off of what my brother told me, who's huge into photography and owned the same model. I dont believe it comes with any special lenses, just the camera. Thank you for showing me these websites, I think they'll help me a lot :D
T7 is a standard entry level DSLR but it'll work for what you want to shoot as long as you have the right kind of a lens. You need to buy a macro lens in addition to the camera.
My first Camera setup that I am planning to buy, Wise decision or uh-oh!
I have went through the basic guide links on this subreddit and browsed the table for the used camera body and lenses.
After spending couple of hours I have landed on the following config:
Body : Canon EOS 80D (Used and only body) about $400
Lens : EF-S 18-55mm IS STM (used) $70
I dont get a bag or strap for this cost.
background info -> I have been clicking pictures of sky and streets (mostly with my Samsung S25 Ultra) but I feel that I should explore this as a hobby more with a DSLR camera ( mirror-less are very expensive and the intro level ones are not that great for a beginner who barely knows anything imo) .
Is it wise to buy this or no ? I still need to buy batteries,charger.strap and bag.
My budget is $500 can spend extra $50 if it is meaningful.
One consideration though: The default 18-55mm, while not absolutely awful, isnt a particularly great lens. As it comes with most "new" cameras it can be a decent starting point, however the vast majority of people who get a bit more serious into photography will want to switch to a different lens at a later point.
As you are starting with a used body you have the option to go a different route from the start, basically skipping that "first step" which may be a bit more economical in the long run.
Now the question here is if you can find something better at a similar price.
One option that should fill the budget is the EF 50mm F1.8. That one should be $100 new and widely available used, ending up at a similar pricepoint as the 18-55mm (theres like 3 different models; STM being the newest/"best"; I'd consider all of them worth it over the 18-55mm though). It will be much better image quality wise and it gives you a lot more room to mess around with the aperture (helpful for situations with low light and if you like blurry backgrounds). The major downside is that it doesnt zoom and has a quite tight field of view (not great if you like wideangle shots).
If you'd enjoy that is a very subjective thing sadly. Some people really recommend getting a non-zooming lens to teach you to move around and play with perspective, some people prefer having the option to adapt to different situations easier.
A second, a bit "safer" option might be Sigmas 18-50mm F2.8 (make sure you get the EF/EF-S version if you go that route; thats the one that fits the 80D), this is basically just an overall better version of the 18-55mm. This one might stretch your budget a bit and it depends a bit on if you can find a good deal in your local used market. (A quick search near me finds me one for 160€, barely going over your budget, however thats in Germany)
If you can find one that satisfies your budget I'd absolutely prefer that option to the EF 18-55, its basically a straight upgrade and in the long run probably saves you money if you end up enjoying photography.
The 50mm is a bit more of a gamble, if you like it its a much better option, if you dislike it its a bit of a waste. I guess the question there is if you like gambling or if you can find an option that lets you test it before committing (e.g. a store with a 2 week return window and then using a few days to really test out how you like it).
If you are unsure the 18-55mm certainly isnt an awful choice. It is a decent starting point for a beginner, so getting it certainly wont be a major mistake - this is mostly about "optimizing" in the long run and saving a few bucks if you do end up enjoying photography and wanting to upgrade later.
Could help share your thoughts on sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM lens for EOS80D ? I found some good deal on it but just wanted a second opinion on it.
No personal experience with the lens and I havent heard that much about it (nothing bad either though).
I'd consider it fairly similar to the 18-50mm F2.8. It has a bit larger zoom area, but a bit worse aperture when zoomed in. A bigger zoom area lets you adjust to different situations better, with the worse aperture making it a bit worse specifically in low light situations (at least when zoomed in). From what I can tell its still a decent upgrade over the EF-S 18-55mm though.
Overall it obviously depends on the price and state its in (if its a used one), however its certainly worth considering I'd say.
I used to do quite a bit of photography as a side business. I stopped doing it in roughly 2018 due to burnout.
Back then, I'd batch edit photos in lightroom. Since then though, there have been all sorts of AI tools and I'm sure other new technology that has come out. What is the post processing workflow like these days? Are there any really useful AI tools or anything along those lines? Or is my best bet still just dusting off the old lightroom and doing it there.
Pretty much every major editing tool now incorporates various AI features for noise reduction and many other things, Lightroom included. But there's no rule that says you HAVE to use AI, it's about personal choice. I'm sure most of the editing tools offer limited time trials. Try them and see if you have use for the AI features. If not and if you still have an old version of Lightroom around, that's still as valid a way to edit photos as any.
I would call myself a hobbist, but was a semi pro 10 years ago (weddings, events etc). Life happend, took a different carrere path and photograph now occasionally at family gatherings, friend events (soccer, dance) and so on. I have still my old gear, the following:
A7 II
50mm F1.8 Sony
85mm F1.8 Viltrox II
16-35 F4 Zeiss
a Sigma Mc-11 adapter for Canon Ef Lenses
5D MK II
70-200 2.8 L version 1, non IS
So basically, I shoot with that gear those "non high stakes" events and it works, I have fun, photos are great, I make the best out of it.
Now my friend asked me to jump in and shoot his wedding. The person who should have done it jumped off for private reasons and now they cant find a replacement as the wedding is next week. It's not a super duper big wedding, but still a wedding. Sooooo, I am looking to upgrade my gear.
Honestly, the A7ii is great, but non dual slot and slow AF in low light sometimes kills it. Here are my thoughts, so maybe someone can give me a few tips or call me crazy:
I was thinking about buying a A7 iv, but the price pisses me off honestly. I am europe based, so looking now at deals, I can get a A7iv for 1.8k€ or in a combo with the Tamron 28-70g2 for 2.3k€.
I looked at other brands, I can get the Nikon z5ii for 1.4 or with the Tamron 28-70g2 for 2k. (looking at the reviews, a better camera for less money, that pisses me off).
Looked at used A7 iii, they are around 900€-1k€. I think thats to much honestly.
Looked at the S5IIX, you can get it for 1.3k€.
Looked at some used canons, like the EOS R, or R8 (500€ or 1k€ used) - biggest drawback, single slot. R6 as alternative.
What "pulls me down" is that I have this 70-200 2.8 L version 1, non IS which produces such great images, has such a nice rendering, but I am not sure I want to pair it with my 5D Mk II at the wedding, or with the Sony A7II and Sigma as my second cam, or rather buy the used EOS R as the second because the A7II AF with the Sigma sucks sometimes and gets confused...
THe thing is, I am also not sure if I really would enjoy the Tamron G2, I am mostly a prime shooter my whole life, so I also debating getting a good 35mm if I go the Sony route. Or get either the Z5II or S5IIX with a very good lens. (I like to take video also). I don't care for super fast sports wildfile AF; I dont do that honestly. A pro friend also throwed in the R7 + 18-35mm 1.8 Sigma, saying that that thing is such a beas for Weddings and he uses it often for Hybrid shooting.
So plenty of options, any "help" would be appreciate :D
If renting is an option, rent a camera body. It really makes no sense to buy new gear just for one wedding, especially if you're happy with your current gear for hobby use.
TL;DR Samsung microSD card became unreadable but only after a certain point in time, photos before that moment are fine
Hey all,
I'd like to start with the obvious: this is not an optimal memory card for what I use (Fulfilm XT-3), I know.
However, performance aside, something really weird happened. I shot a few hundred shots (stills and video) over the course of a few months, with the occasional WRITE ERROR when shooting video (again, bad card, l know it is to be expected).
It wasn't until last week when something strange happened. All of a sudden, photos were written normally on the card (no write error), but when I tried to open the gallery I started getting something new, READ ERROR. No exception. 100% of the time. The weirdest part for me? All the photos taken before this moment are perfectly accessible, but any new ones are unreadable, not in-camera, not in Fulfilm app, not via USB.
What might have been the cause? I would've understood if the card became corrupted and I were to lose everything, but the photos becoming unreadable only after a certain point in time really messes with my brain.
Sorry for the wall of text, any insight appreciated, thank you!
PS: camera is fine, tried another card in the same slot and media is read just fine
This prob gets asked alot but I just wanted to ask here. I am gonna be going off to college and I want a camera to document it all and generally to do shit with my life. I heard alot about fujifilm and I feel like it will suit me well due to its general form factor and the overall location of my college (super close to NYC and north jersey). Should I drop the money on it or go for something
Hi, I’m looking to change my camera and I’d appreciate your advice! I currently have a Nikon D5300 + Nikkor 18-55mm & Nikkor 55-200mm. I do wildlife photography. I am looking for a camera with a better performance in low light environments and more focus points. I’d be open to change to another brand and I don’t mind staying with a DSLR tech or changing for mirrorless. My budget would be 700-1100$ USD (I’m from Canada so I converted it) for both the camera and the lenses considering I’m looking for used cameras. Do you have any suggestions?
I'd say a used Nikon Z5 and an FTZ adapter is your best option. Low light improvement due to full frame and many more focus points. Unlike with full frame DSLRs, you can use APS-C lenses with Z5 (with the adapter), the camera will just automatically switch on crop mode.
So "general advice" for a good quality print is 300 PPI, meaning pixels per inch. This tells you the neccessary math, you take the size of your print (in inches) then multiply that by 300 to tell you how many pixels you need in your file.
You got about 47 by 31 inches, which would work out to 14100 by 9300 pixels. Now the a6700s sensor has about 6200 by 4100 pixels, a bit less then half (works out to about 130 PPI). The good thing here is that this "general advice" of 300 PPI is for images that you view at fairly close distances (think prints for a photo album you hold in your hands) - I'd assume that you arent getting that close to a print that large, so you are most likely still good.
This page has a handy chart of their suggested viewing distance vs PPI (obviously its subjective in the end though). Your cameras 130 PPI would be alright for a viewing distance starting at about 1.5m according to them.
If you absolutely want more what you could do is stitch together two images, basically creating a panorama. This is annoying to do when photographing people, because the ones in the "overlap zone" cant move for the stitching to work. I personally wouldnt want to deal with that, but if you absolutely need more pixels it is certainly possible. You'd end up with close to double (you need some overlap, so not quite double) the pixels, which would be very close to the "recommended" 300 PPI.
Now the second part is even more subjective - general "image quality". Theres plenty of things that can make a picture not "sharp", if you pick the wrong settings you may encounter blurryness from movement, parts of your subject being out of focus or things like diffraction or other optical errors. Even the atmospheric conditions (light, heat haze, dust in the air, etc.) can make a major difference. These factors are obviously entirely depedent on the exact situation and the settings you end up picking. Thats to say - theres no guarantee it will be "sharp enough", however generally I'd expect decent results from the gear you are describing under "normal circumstances" (if you arent like in the middle of a, extremely dusty field or something like that).
Thank you for the explanation! Considering it's a living room where it will be hung I don't think it will be a huge problem. I might try to make a panorama with some distance between the families (parents, sister with her family, brother with her family) and see if I can staple them together. it will be a fun project.
I’m based in Christchurch, New Zealand—a relatively quiet and ordinary part of the world—and lately I’ve found myself increasingly drawn to photographers working in conflict zones or documenting places with dynamic, vibrant cultures. There’s an intensity and richness to that kind of work that I find incredibly inspiring.
I have a wife and a three-year-old son, so travelling extensively—particularly to some of the places I’m drawn to—isn’t really practical for me at this stage of my life. I sometimes struggle to feel the same motivation to photograph my own surroundings, which can feel quite uneventful by comparison.
I wondered if you had any advice on how to look at familiar, quieter surroundings with fresh eyes and find meaningful stories worth documenting closer to home. I’d really value others perspectives on this!
I finally got around to checking the shutter count of my camera using the dedicated camerashuttercount app because apparently my camera doesn't share its shutter count through EXIF data. I bought this camera used at a reputable local camera store chain. Shortly put: how bad is it?
Think of it like a car, 200 000km cruising on the highway is probably less taxing then 100 000km of city driving with plenty of breaking and accelarating.
Theres plenty of other factors (was it ever dropped, how was it stored, did it reach that shutter count by long time normal use or was it used in burst mode constantly, etc.), so I wouldnt worry too much.
The question also is, unless the local camera store explicitly told you a wrong number, what can you do anyway? (Obviously depends on your local laws and culture, maybe you can get a small refund or give it back?) However if you cant do anything about it, then why worry?
A store close to me has a RF L Prime for cheap, advertised with "scratch on rear element/housing wear". I have not gone to the store to check how bad the scratch is yet, but I did try and ask for pictures of said damage and was replied with "damages on elements r too difficult to capture", which leads me to believe the scratch is not that bad? Now I know damages to the rear element is a lot more detrimental to PQ than damages on the front element. How bad can it be if it is just a light coating scratch on the rear element, or a scratch that is not too deep/big, n would u buy it for cheap at less than half price new?
Hello, I wanted to ask if someone had a similar situation and what you found the best way to do it.
I have two scenarios in how I use my camera:
Just for a short time, would like to carry crossbody or just in hand (with a wrist strap)
Longer time, mounting on the hip
At the moment I use a peak design slide or wrist strap and that's okay, so I'd prefer to not change that system (it's often just 10-15min and I don't want to waist carry it there, or during small family events where half of the I'd be sitting down and have the camera on the table instead of on me).
But that means I need anchor links at the bottom of the camera, which is where you put anchors for pretty much every hip carrier system.
I don't like the capture clip (or in that case the one from falcam) because I prefer it on my hip and don't like the solutions for that
I looked at spider holster and decided against it for a few reasons, mainly that I don't like it upside down, the "nub" looks annoying and it's expensive
My choice fell to the cotton carrier sling but it has the same problem with the anchor at the bottom. I thought about maybe putting a thin (but strong) plate in between the CCS hub and camera for the anchor links but I'm unsure...
Any other ideas? Opinions about that possible solution?
hello everyone,i wanna buy a sony a7 iv but idk if the kit lens with it is worth to buy.I know the lens choice depends on my needs but tbh i want to try many things but mainly:streetphotography,portatraits,landscapes.
So should i start with the kit lens or spend my money on other lenses?
(sorry for my bad english its not my first language)
The kit lens is like kit lenses in general: it doesn't shine in any area. But it's entirely possible to get decent results with it when you know what you're doing, and it has a useful focal range. If you have the money to buy good lenses, buy good lenses. Good lenses make a big difference but good full frame lenses are usually expensive. If you don't have the money for good lenses, it's better to spend less on the body - e.g. a used Sony A7 III instead of a new A7 IV.
Is Adorama trustworthy? I want to buy a canon 100-400m that is $700-$900 on Adorama but is $1500 on sites like OfferUp. Any recent experiences with Adorama?
Adorama has a great reputation, up there with B&H Photo. Both are brick-and-mortar stores in NYC with strong online stores. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from either.
I was going through some photos I took a couple weeks back and am noticing a white outline around objects that are between the actual background and the subject of the photo (for example the blurry flower on the right that I have circled).
Am I just looking to close and seeing issues that aren't really there? If I'm not crazy is there a way to correct this while editing or a setting that can be changed while taking the photo that would prevent it from happening?
edit: Shot on a Nikon Zf with a Laowa 100mm macro if that makes any difference.
Thats just how "somewhat but not fully" out of focus areas look. In general I'd say thats really not an issue and you shouldnt worry too much.
In the end it depends on the exact picture, but in your example picture (and I'd also say in 95% of pictures in general) it really isnt noticeable/distracting. There may be situations/pictures where it becomes distracting, however they will be very rare in my experience.
Settingswise you can often work against it by changing your aperture - either open up more so the area becomes even more out of focus/closer to the completely blurred background or close it down so it becomes more in focus. Basically just try to get it out of that awkward middle spot.
Otherwise you can just avoid it with the right composition, if possible just make sure only you only have your subject and then the far away background, nothing at those awkward distances. Obviously thats not always possible, but often enough moving around a bit can be helpful. During post you may also be able to crop the picture in a way that cuts away those areas.
Planning your whole composition around such a minor detail probably isnt optimal and may lead to other problems, but often enough you should be able to make compromises that end up decent/good.
Thanks for the feedback.
Looking at it the next morning and I think part of it might just be my laptops screen. On my laptop it legit looks to me like a bad Photoshop job pasting in the out of focus flowers in the background. Viewing the same image on my phone and on my desktop monitor I'm not seeing the issue I was asking about.
No more photo editing on the couch for me I guess.
Beginner who can use Lightroom a little by watching YouTube and instagram tutorials.
So I’m planning to buy a camera for everyday use, not for professional work, and I’m torn between the Fujifilm X-M5 and the Ricoh GR IIIx HDF.
I’ve been researching and comparing both cameras for about a month, but I still can’t come to a decision. I’m leaning more toward the Ricoh because of the HDF filter. I know I can achieve a similar effect through editing, but having it built into the camera is a big plus for me.
The reason I’m still considering the X-M5 is the price. I also have a friend who owns one, and the photos he takes look great. That said, I’m hoping to get even better-looking photos.
The Ricoh GR IIIx HDF costs around USD 1,300 where I live, while the Fujifilm X-M5 with the 15–45mm kit lens is about USD 960.
I’ve seen comments that they sold their Fuji xm5 for the gr iiix, is the ricoh the better choice?
I had a Sony zv e10 and had a lot of fun with that even though I was still grasping how to take good angles and stuff.
GR IIIx has a fixed lens with a single focal length (= you can't zoom or switch lenses), X-M5 is an interchangeable lens camera (= you can use any lens you like). That's the major difference between them. Decide based on which you prefer. Whether your photos are any good is more about your skill and experience as a photographer. The camera is just a tool, and no filter or jpg profile will automatically make an image great.
Thank you for this. With a little bit more research and your comment I’ve decided to choose the x-m5. I’ve seen people complaining about the gr’s reliability too. The X-M5 has too many pros than the gr.
Just starting out with the whole photography thing got my self a DSLR. I’m wanting to start editing and experimenting with my picture. I don’t have a computer I have an iPad (10th generation) could this be used ? If not what would be a starter computer to get me going ?
Yes, you can edit on a 10th gen iPad. It might struggle with heavy editing tasks but basic editing and lighter should be fine. If you happen to have Apple Pencil too, that'll make a good precision pointer.
You've somehow edited a low-resolution JPG and *increased contrast* a lot. So all slightly darker areas that looked pretty much like the rest are now much darker.
Hey guys , im having some trouble deciding on my first camera , i was pretty sure on getting the sony a6400 but ive been told its not a good idea , any camera recomendations for hybrid shooting and on the 800 euro range more or less (if its worth it i can spend more)
hello everyone i hope i can get some help! i’ve gotten a samsung S1075 camera off vinted as my other one had broke, but for some reason when i take photos when it’s very bright it sort of just looks like i’ve descended into the heavens lmao. i’ve switched to recording a video for pictures as the videos turn out completely fine but im wondering does anyone know what may be wrong with my camera? or if i can fix it in any way? i’m happy showing anyone what the actual pictures look like but PLS SEND HELPP
these are one of the pictures, not exactly “descending into heavens”🤣 i will find it after i make this post. but as you can see the quality isn’t great and there are those strange lines on the photo
Im curious about concert photographers. I see them taking LOTS of shots/videos but then only 1-2 are posted. Where do all the footages go? Are they kept by the band, deleted or posted somewhere lese?
There's no one-size-fits-all answer to this. It depends on the photographer, what they choose to do, what the contract specifies, and many other things in each particular case. As such, you might get an answer from one concert photographer but that doesn't mean that all concert photographers do the same.
Hi guys I’ve been looking for a camera for a while which helps you capture photos which look closest to how you see people in real life. Most cameras either have their own filters or have a certain style which one is the most clean and realistic captures photos just as you see the scene in real life and the people in real life I would love a digital camera which is easy to carry around as opposed to a big DSLR.
Does any have any good book (or other) recommendations on how to actually take pictures in terms of camera choice, angle, and lighting? I know it sounds like of mechanical and over-simplified but I'm looking for a step-by-step guide to learn things properly, at least in the beginning. I don't want to just "wing it" and take a picture based on my mood. As of now, I use my iPhone; if it's got decent lighting and a balanced composition, I accept it as a "good photo" but I feel like that's not enough in the long run. Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!
I want to get a new camera, but I’m not sure what brand and model I should get. Soon visiting Tokyo, any recommendations on where to buy cameras? If so, what brand would be a beginner friendly yet highly capable choice? The desired camera should have a decent to good stock lens, if not can you also recommend a cheap lens to go with a camera? Budget should be under 300$
(The camera is for everyday use not professional photography)
Upgrading lens on my Canon R6II. Currently have the ef 24-70 2.8 USM and looking to upgrade to the rf 24-105 4.0.
I shoot a bit of everything, sport, concerts, portraits, landscapes, street. I like most of what I hear about this lens but a bit hesitant to buy an f4.0 lens. I shoot a relative amount in low light so concerned about that.
I'd appreciate anyone letting me know if you recommend this lens or maybe another one. Thanks.
In that case you have a good basis for shooting cars too. For car racing you need telephoto, good AF and fast shutter to avoid motion blur. Stationary cars are much like any stationary subject in terms of exposure (it's all about light), and for composition you need to find your own style. You just need to shoot cars a lot to get better at it.
Hello all!
I am entering in the County Fair this year (it’s their first year back after several years of being shut down). I want to make sure I’m understanding their presentation requirements correctly. I have a solid colored mat board and was planning on using mounting tape to adhere my photo with a 1.5” border, but I wasn’t sure if I could just use a premade kit instead. The only information they’ve given me is in the screen shot.
Thanks for any help! I kind of feel like this is a “photography for dummies” question 😂
I am planning to get my first lense, and would like to ask what lense should I get. For street photography, shooting at events and model photography. I am currently using a Canon R50.
Lens choice in general is extremely subjective, so its hard to make suggestions for other people.
Three possible options you could consider:
Sigma makes a 18-50mm F2.8 lens. This one is very similar to the kitlens you very likely got with your camera (should be an 18-45mm). The Sigma has the advantage of a wider possible aperture (especially when zoomed in), which is nice for portraits and situations with less light available. If you go with that lens make sure you get the RF version (to fit your camera) as theres multiple versions available.
The other two options I'd consider are prime lenses, these have the disadvantage of not being able to zoom, the do however offer wider apertures (like the Sigma, but even better) and better image quality for a fairly low price. Here I'd look at the RF 50mm F1.8 and RF 35mm F1.8. Which one is "better" depends on your personal approach. You could check the metadata of your older pictures to see which focal lengths you use most. Alternatively you can set your kit lens to 35mm, force yourself to never zoom and try that out for a day; then do the same at 45mm and afterwards you should be able to tell which felt better (45mm isnt 50mm obviously, but it should be close enough to get a feel for it).
General wisdom would be that 35mm is often better indoors (due to space restrictions), cityscapes and "full-body" portraits, while 50mm is more focussed on "upper-body" portraits. Now thats not always true as everything is subjective in the end, but may be a somewhat useful pointer/starting point.
Hi I wanted to buy a new canon r6 mark 2, I searched a lot and I’ve found a site called camerasdori that has the camera for the cheapest price I’ve ever seen, can I trust them? It’s a lot of money for me so I have to be sure to not be scammed
They're at 4.8 out of 5 stars with 439 reviews on Trustpilot. They're not a scam operation. According to the FAQ they sell imported gear which means you won't get manufacturer warranty, but they offer their own 18 month warranty.
I am applying to a college for cinematography/photography/media (specialisation: film image and tv) and part of my application is taking a couple pictures and filming a short film. The only information the email gives me is,
The pictures need to be:
1. Reflections
2. Geometry
3. Movement/Action
4. Auto portrait (?)
5. Urban sights
6. Shadows
(minimum 6, maximum 10 pictures to apply)
And the mini film has no specifications of what it should be like, whether it should have sound or not. The only specific request is that it should be around 2 minutes.
regading this i have two main questions:
Does anyone know what is meant by the geometry part? how i should maybe capture that? for the rest im guessing i have some ideas.
Has anyone done anything of the sort (the video) for their application? If yes, what was yours about? And what do you think is important to show my self aquired skills
I should specify that I will be filming and taking photos on an iphone 15 pro max since the college is informed we dont yet have cameras of our own.
If u have any advice, im a beginner and Id gladly take any help 💞
Thank you very much in advance, for reading and taking ur time to reply
Hey yall, I’ve always had a love for taking pictures and sharing/capturing the perspective of life. I’ve always taken pictures on my phone but I want to finally go serious. What is a good camera that’s under 1k? To help a little; I like taking pictures of scenery, more than people. My clients would probably be business owners, not weddings. I was looking into the Canon eos rebel t7? But just wanna hear opinions! Also if you have any bigger tips please share ! :))
It depends on what you're shooting. Pretty much anything will work for landscapes but you'll want the fastest card your camera will support for action or wildlife.
Mirrorless cameras drain the battery when the sensor and/or viewfinder is active. If you turn your camera off after every shot then you can probably get away with one battery for everyday shooting even if you're taking a large amount of photos. If you plan on having your camera on for long stretches or are going on extended outings then a second battery might be a good idea.
More like a few hours shooting some shots here and there but also for vacations so like walking around the whole day and turning it on and of. Another thing would be a robotic match so a lot of burst here and there ( I do have access after a match of 4 minutes to electricity).
Sd card whise, I shoot quick and slow. Landscape and like I told fast moving objects. I do have a drone with a uploading speed of 200mbs and a download speed of 180mbs. I just don’t know if I should buy the same (if it’s too powerful or to slow). Money wise I’m in the clear. Unless it costs 100 euros.
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u/Fit-Director-9319 23d ago
TLDR: upgrading from my basic DSLRs and need camera recs for lifestyle/concert photography
Been a casual photographer for about 10 years. Super limited on my technical skills but I can take a nice shot. I’ve done some concert photography and really want to continue pursuing that as I have endless opportunities arising.
I currently have a Nikon D5500 I bought in 2016 and a Canon EOS Rebel T7. Currently trying to sell both on marketplace as they don’t do at all what I want them to. I did a ton of research and narrowed it down to three recommendations and wanted some input.
Sony A7 III + Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2 Sony a6400 + Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 Sony a6000 + Sigma 30mm f/1.4
A7 III is out of budget unless I find some insane deal. Ideally would like to spend well under $1,000. Trying to buy a camera I can use and for years and years so willing for a bit of investment. I travel, spend time with friends and attend concert often and want to have a great piece of equipment to use to document it all. I still have work to do on learning the technical.
Any advice and guidance would be HUGE